Ugh...first problem after warranty came up. Battery/Alternator warning
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: California
2018 E63S AMG, 2003 SLK 230 Sport, 2004 SL 600, 2006 SLK 55 AMG, 1998 E320 Wagon
Ugh...first problem after warranty came up. Battery/Alternator warning
So, what could this mean, gentlemen? The pullies are all spinning fine, but the light came on during relatively heavy load.
Nothing seems to be acting up. Is it possible the alernator's failing? What kind of cost am I looking at? Oh, and I do know of a good 3rd party Mercedes authorized repair shop. I should be good taking it there versus a stealership, right?
Nothing seems to be acting up. Is it possible the alernator's failing? What kind of cost am I looking at? Oh, and I do know of a good 3rd party Mercedes authorized repair shop. I should be good taking it there versus a stealership, right?
Last edited by Koru_Kinshi; Aug 4, 2011 at 08:17 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: California
2018 E63S AMG, 2003 SLK 230 Sport, 2004 SL 600, 2006 SLK 55 AMG, 1998 E320 Wagon
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From: Fairfield county, CT.
2004 Ran SRT-10,2007 S550,2016 E400c
First if you have a amp clamp you can test the output at the poss batt cable coming of the alt.. also check the voltage when running..you should have max amperage of the alt at 2k rpm and at idle you should have 13-14 volts.. Do both test cold then hot.. make sure you do it hot because benz alts. mostly fail at higher temp...
its probablay just the voltage regulator... if when it gets warm the voltage starts to fall and charge at 11-12.5 volts than you need a regulator not the whole alt ... they are replaceable separate from the alt....
you would be amazed how many alts are repalaced when all was needed was a voltage regulator ...... just a hint from your scummy "stealership" tech.
its probablay just the voltage regulator... if when it gets warm the voltage starts to fall and charge at 11-12.5 volts than you need a regulator not the whole alt ... they are replaceable separate from the alt....
you would be amazed how many alts are repalaced when all was needed was a voltage regulator ...... just a hint from your scummy "stealership" tech.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,276
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From: California
2018 E63S AMG, 2003 SLK 230 Sport, 2004 SL 600, 2006 SLK 55 AMG, 1998 E320 Wagon
First if you have a amp clamp you can test the output at the poss batt cable coming of the alt.. also check the voltage when running..you should have max amperage of the alt at 2k rpm and at idle you should have 13-14 volts.. Do both test cold then hot.. make sure you do it hot because benz alts. mostly fail at higher temp...
its probablay just the voltage regulator... if when it gets warm the voltage starts to fall and charge at 11-12.5 volts than you need a regulator not the whole alt ... they are replaceable separate from the alt....
you would be amazed how many alts are repalaced when all was needed was a voltage regulator ...... just a hint from your scummy "stealership" tech.
its probablay just the voltage regulator... if when it gets warm the voltage starts to fall and charge at 11-12.5 volts than you need a regulator not the whole alt ... they are replaceable separate from the alt....
you would be amazed how many alts are repalaced when all was needed was a voltage regulator ...... just a hint from your scummy "stealership" tech.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,001
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From: NY
2014 E350 4Matic
First if you have a amp clamp you can test the output at the poss batt cable coming of the alt.. also check the voltage when running..you should have max amperage of the alt at 2k rpm and at idle you should have 13-14 volts.. Do both test cold then hot.. make sure you do it hot because benz alts. mostly fail at higher temp...
its probablay just the voltage regulator... if when it gets warm the voltage starts to fall and charge at 11-12.5 volts than you need a regulator not the whole alt ... they are replaceable separate from the alt....
you would be amazed how many alts are repalaced when all was needed was a voltage regulator ...... just a hint from your scummy "stealership" tech.
its probablay just the voltage regulator... if when it gets warm the voltage starts to fall and charge at 11-12.5 volts than you need a regulator not the whole alt ... they are replaceable separate from the alt....
you would be amazed how many alts are repalaced when all was needed was a voltage regulator ...... just a hint from your scummy "stealership" tech.
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From: Western Canada
2013 C63 AMG P31, 2014 GMC Sierra (6.2)
Something to note when thinking about preventative maintenance. There was actually a DIY that the W211 E55 guys had posted not too long ago. Not sure how applicable it is to the W203s since I actually have never had to do it.
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From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
The voltage regulator is a normal wear part. I'm on my third one. Changing it is simple on a W208 CLK. It's probably the same on a W203.
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C63, C55 (Sold)
I mean, $1800 for a belt replacement? I can buy a LED TV with that!
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From: California
2018 E63S AMG, 2003 SLK 230 Sport, 2004 SL 600, 2006 SLK 55 AMG, 1998 E320 Wagon
1800 for a belt? The hell??? There's no problem with the serpentine, so that's fine....but that sounds retarded. I think I'm just going to take the car to a 3rd party specialist.
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From: Philadelphia, PA
2008 A8L, 2002 996TT X50, 2009 X5
Yeah, I had a similar problem: I was driving at night (with my wife on the passenger seat) in the middle of the Turnpike, when the central display showed a warning "Alternator Malfunction", and then the steering wheel started to go numb. Running at 70mph it was not wise to stay on the fast lane, so I immediately pulled away to the right shoulder. I called the tow (my wife was so happy: one of her dreams was to ride on a tow truck) and dropped the Benz to the dealership at 8PM (night drop-offs are useful). The mechanic called me the next morning telling that the issue was the belt, it broke. The cost of the fix would be 18 hundred. When I purchased the car I also bought an extended bumper to bumper warranty so they assumed most of the cost and I had to pay only 81 bucks in the end.
I mean, $1800 for a belt replacement? I can buy a LED TV with that!
I mean, $1800 for a belt replacement? I can buy a LED TV with that!
When I had an idler-pulley failure, the entire repair was in the ballpark of $1,800 (from an MB specialist indy) because the idler sheared off the waterpump-housing mount and they replaced the WP as well. The idler also trashed the oil cooler, so that had to be replaced. Etc etc.
When the pulley failed and sheared off, the first symptom was the "batt/alt" warning message... pulled over, popped the hood, and the belt was off, along with the idler and subsequent carnage.
My point is, no way was a "we replaced your broken belt with a new one, but that's all we did" a $1,800 job. My $0.02.
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From: Western Canada
2013 C63 AMG P31, 2014 GMC Sierra (6.2)
I invite your attention:
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...lternator.html
Again, this is for the W211 E55 and I'm not sure how much would be applicable to the W203s.......
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...lternator.html
Again, this is for the W211 E55 and I'm not sure how much would be applicable to the W203s.......
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Orlando
W211 E55 AMG Kompressor
Help!!!!
Hello everyone, can someone please provide some feedback on this tread, last night while idling my E55 in the garage I smelled a faint burning scent, popped the hood and could not find nor describe the source of this burning smell, however, after checking the forum on the matter it's come to my attention that the alternator/voltage regulator could be on it's way out, convienience message comes on and off now so i know there is low voltage (11.1v) sometimes a bit less, here's my question,,, if, it is the regulator thats bad, would I still get the burning smell???? Or is the burning smell a clear sign that the alternator itself is toasted internally....feedback please!!!!!!!
Hello everyone, can someone please provide some feedback on this tread, last night while idling my E55 in the garage I smelled a faint burning scent, popped the hood and could not find nor describe the source of this burning smell, however, after checking the forum on the matter it's come to my attention that the alternator/voltage regulator could be on it's way out, convienience message comes on and off now so i know there is low voltage (11.1v) sometimes a bit less, here's my question,,, if, it is the regulator thats bad, would I still get the burning smell???? Or is the burning smell a clear sign that the alternator itself is toasted internally....feedback please!!!!!!!
