I bought an '02 C32 earlier this year after reading these forums for a while. I really wanted a sporty sedan with decent power and rear wheel drive...and I wanted four doors so I could shuttle my two kids around when I wanted to.
Last month I installed a larger EC heat exchanger and johnson CM30 pump, along with a 185mm crank pulley. I bought the pulley kit off someone here on the boards that had advertised it as a eurocharged kit, but from the pics I have seen it is an LET 185mm pulley. The install of the the pulley and H/E & pump went witout issue. While I was at it I also replaced the front seal on the power steering pump (thankyou Loudandheard for the great diy thread) and also replaced the front main seal when I had the crank pulley off just for peace of mind.

At any rate, after installing it all the car ran great for all of one day. Initially I always get an "SOS call TelAid" message, but I disregard this and select the menu that shows the coolant temperature bar. My coolant temperature number in the lower left *always* displays 185F, even upon start up when the bar is showing much less. I don't know why it does this, as the user manual has examples that show 72F....show the number should be dynamic. I don't know where the temp sensor is, but when I find it I'll replace it.

I was getting excellent acceleration for the first few minutes, then the boost would go away and the car would go into limp mode. I decided to check the pump by putting two hoses on it and seeing it circulate coolant through a bucket. Had really high output...obviously moving a large volume of coolant through the system (which I have isolated). Hooked back up and the lines going to the intercooler are always cool, as well as the heat exchanger. Test drive, and still it cuts boost with the lines feeling cool to the touch. Immediately after it cuts boost I can stop the car and feel that the intercooler lines are cool t the touch, as is the heat exchanger. Any ideas?

Yesterday while driving it the car began to accelerate very slowly, and it would not shift into another gear. It feels as if the car starts and stays in 2nd gear the entire time...and when doing 45mph or so the tach is showing almost 4K rpm.

I have seen a lot of people mention monitoring their IAT. How is this done? Are people installing a guage somewhere under the intake to monitor boost temperature? Also, where does one tie into a port that references boost? All the ports I have checked see only the vacuum side of the intake. (The DIY link here on the board on how to add a boost gauge is a dead link.)

I have done a lot of searching here in this forum, and although there are a lot of threads where people talk about having these problems, it seems pretty rare that there are definitive answers or explanations on how to solve the issues or what systems/sensors cause them.

 

Did you get an Eurocharged ECU tune as well? You kinda need that with a 185 pulley, otherwise it's a little dangerous to run without a tune.

I'm sure you're getting a CEL after going into limp mode. You need to read the codes and that will point you in the right direction.

 

Thanks for the good advice. No, I haven't gotten the Jerry tune yet. I am from Houston, and Jerry's shop is only a few minutes from where my folks live. I agree that the tune is necessary. I am going to pull the codes today. I find it ironic (and pretty damn frustrating) that MB had put a "FAULTS" feature right on the display that will nag me with trivial items such as an unplugged foglight, yet they couldn't go just one step further and add a feature to display the CEL codes as well.

 

ya, tune is a priority or you risky the engine.

The temp sensor is bottom left of the front bumper. Its a small little pointed thing.

sounds like a cooling issue though or you have a bubble in the line/not purged

IATS are monitored through a data logging device through the OBD port.

 

Do yourself a favor and get a tune or you will blow it up. While you are at it, have EC check the old LET pulley setup to see if any barings need to be replaced. To monitor boost, you need to tap the aluminum y-pipe that houses the MAP sensor and connect it to a gauge.

 

You need a tune asap, wouldn't drive the 185 with out one.

 

Thanks again for the advice. I took the car to the zone today and had the code run. It had only one code stored, P0715 ... which translated to "low voltage supply, turbine input speed" I haven't any idea where to start on that one just yet. I am going to remove the 185 kit an put my stock crank and associated pulleys back on and cross my fingers. The code that was there was one that was not able to to be cleared with the scanner, which is
unusual.

 

Don't bother taking off the 185, it's in the transmission, not related to the crank pulley. Apparently it's some speed sensor conductor plate, Check this thread and do a search on P0715.

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-w208/252385-my-722-6-mega-dollar-transmission.html

Good Luck!

 

I did some reading and you may be able to have the dealer clear the code and everything could go back to normal. This will be the cheapest way of finding out if it's nothing more than a stored fault code. If it's more than that, you may be able to do the repair yourself, but you'll need to figure out the part numbers. Shouldn't be too expensive, but you'll have to make sure to get the right parts and figure out what's wrong. You will need the trans conductor plate because the sensor is integrated in the plate.

Here's a link of what you will be looking at if you decide to do it yourself.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129...2-6-how-i.html

More info:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...0715-code.html

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140...tor-plate.html

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...te-issues.html