I found a cheap fix for my Transmission Jerk!
When his C32 exhibited an intermittent ‘no-start’ failure and MIL/CEL, my first thought was that its CPS had died. A cursory OBD-II scan confirmed the P0335 code.
Have chased a viable solution for torque converter lock-up abruptness since the Mrs. first drove it home with ~45,000 miles.
Flushed its ATF a half-dozen times and replaced (and 'tuned') the TCU/EGS twice. No substantive difference once the 722.6’s lollygag adaptations took over.
Had a local independent shop replace the CPS after hearing of Scott’s results.
Electronics certainly aren’t my forte, though fitting a fresh CPS noticeably reduced the converter’s lock-up jerk.
Probably not to the extent he’s experienced, but a welcomed improvement nonetheless.
I’m still a bit leery to find out exactly what goes on in that $50 piece of hardware.
I'm interested in this 'Eurocharged' TCU flash, is it a widely-available fix?
We finally installed the Crank sensor tonight. Rather than install from the bottom of the vehicle we went through the top (Only took an hour start to finish)
For me, it did not fix the jerk. However, the car is starting quicker, shifting a bit smoother and the jerk at the moment is noticeably less. It should be noted that we disconnected the battery while changing out the sensor. The "jerk" reduction could simply be from battery being pulled. So has this helped? A little more time will tell and I'll report back.
At the very least it's done and one less thing to replace later on.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
But, unfortunately in my case, this did not fix the dreaded jerk.
Best of luck to others that give this ago. FYI this is the method we used to change the CPS: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-diy-pics.html
So long as you have a nice long extension it is much easier this way IMO than trying to change from the bottom
Best of luck
and this was interesting as well
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...bout-jerk.html
my tranny jerk started after I installed my EC 65mm pulley. i'm going to try reassembling the front of my S/C like this : https://mbworld.org/forums/4462798-post103.html and see if it can fix hiccup.




https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...ml#post4489898
Some people have claimed to have found a solution:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...d-finally.html
I have used the ECU reset to temporarily alleviate some of the harshness of the jerk over the years. But, today I have NO MORE JERK! (the solution in a moment)
At first, I was tending to believe that the fix was just a figment of my imagination, wishful thinking of sorts. Today, I received confirmation from another member here, none other than the esteemed splinter, that this works.
Ready? Here is the complicated fix...........
Replace your CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor).
You're welcome.
OK, so you need more? I was experiencing the typical failing CPS symptoms (engine cranking without a start, CEL lit for the next 3-4 starts, Code P0335). I purchased a new Bosch CPS online and had it installed last week. Upon driving out of the garage, I noticed the smoothness of my car. Prior to this, not only did I have the tranny jerk but, the general smoothness of the on-off tendencies of the throttle were less than luxurious. All of a sudden, my 10 year old car felt brand new again, with lots of supercharged zip to boot.
I told splinter about my revelation and excitement. He "preemptively" ordered a new CPS and text me this morning that he noticed a marked change in the transmission jerk, too. (splinter, please chime in here with your experience)
All I can say is, I am in love with my car all over again. I have no complaints about the (previously) awful transmission. This is the best $140 I've spent on my car (yes, I got a smoking deal on the part and labor).
Do it. You won't be dissatisfied with the results.
$40 from my supplier.




https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...ml#post4489898
Some people have claimed to have found a solution:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...d-finally.html
I have used the ECU reset to temporarily alleviate some of the harshness of the jerk over the years. But, today I have NO MORE JERK! (the solution in a moment)
At first, I was tending to believe that the fix was just a figment of my imagination, wishful thinking of sorts. Today, I received confirmation from another member here, none other than the esteemed splinter, that this works.
Ready? Here is the complicated fix...........
Replace your CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor).
You're welcome.
OK, so you need more? I was experiencing the typical failing CPS symptoms (engine cranking without a start, CEL lit for the next 3-4 starts, Code P0335). I purchased a new Bosch CPS online and had it installed last week. Upon driving out of the garage, I noticed the smoothness of my car. Prior to this, not only did I have the tranny jerk but, the general smoothness of the on-off tendencies of the throttle were less than luxurious. All of a sudden, my 10 year old car felt brand new again, with lots of supercharged zip to boot.
I told splinter about my revelation and excitement. He "preemptively" ordered a new CPS and text me this morning that he noticed a marked change in the transmission jerk, too. (splinter, please chime in here with your experience)
All I can say is, I am in love with my car all over again. I have no complaints about the (previously) awful transmission. This is the best $140 I've spent on my car (yes, I got a smoking deal on the part and labor).
Do it. You won't be dissatisfied with the results.

Apparently the voltage coming from the original unit was spiking all over the place and was the culprit of my lower rpm jerks/hiccups. After driving the car around for a bit after having had it replaced I am amazed how much smoother the throttle input and shifting is.
I recommend everyone who has issues with the low rpm jerk to take your car to a shop or use your own OBDII reader and see if any codes with the words "throttle" or "throttle actuator" in the description come up. If they do, chances are this is the problem. Keep in mind this issue will not throw a CEL until something completely fails. I chose to have a new one installed but I have heard you can buy rebuilt units online for as low as $400. The install is about one hour.
Also, if you have a "chirp" sound at low rpm, remove the S/C pulley and remove a few shims to shrink the gap between the face of the S/C clutch and the S/C pulley. Correct gap spec is .25-.30mm.
https://mbworld.org/forums/4462798-post103.html
I experienced reduced low rpm jerk/hesitation after gapping the pulley correctly. Though the replacement of the actuator removed it in its entirety.







