Lock-up. How should I put it. If you think of a manual gearbox; when you let the clutch up, the traction from the engine is direct to the wheels.
There is no slipping in the gearbox. That is what the PWM solenoid do in the automatic transmission, it locks up at the right time.
Someone else sure can explain it better!

 

got it, thanks!

 

 

But did you change the pwm solenoid.

 

I think, the photo above refers to "722.9" NOT ".6" isn't..?!?!

-;ZAYED;-

 

Been following this thread for a while now determine this might be my issue. Finally decided that I'm not a car mechanic and couldn't understand what the numbers were telling me on my icarsoft MBII reader......well took it to a mechanic who had the answer of,"The torque converter is not locking correctly which is causing the tremendous amount of slip. We would recommended rebuilding the transmission, but this could range from a grand to 7k on a flip of a quarter."
So previously did a transmission service a few weeks before this and didn't notice much of any metal debris or anything just looked like used trans oil. Anyway it fixed my jerk and grunting for about 5 days and then just decided to fly downhill top speed to the point where this is happening every gear low rpm until you get on it and disappears. Sounds prettty similar to AMGEN second expirence(post #199) with this solenoid being that after he accelerates the problem almost seems to "disappear".
Previously before doing trans service the problem was there with the grunting and slight vibrating a low rpms, but I never thought anything of it. After is when it went away for a short time and then reappeared stronger than ever.
This is also causing my trans oil to run hot 98C.
ANYWAY I'm going to change the solenoid in one last dish effort to rid the problem. If not I will be selling the car out of pure anger and frustration. 110k on the motor the trans shouldn't have failed. Doesn't feel like it was slipping ever any other time except low rpm. ALSO since recently when it has gotten really bad you can literally feel the pulsating of the torque converter trying to lock up. I'm aware of the glycol contamination as well, but when I did the fluid change all looked good. Not saying it's for sure not contaminated, but lets hope for the best. The 722.6 manual says a complete overhaul of the transmission is necessary if there was a glycol contamination, so I'm just going to pretend that isn't the case!
This $500-800 job is for everyone that reads this thread. Take it as a community service and a well doing for the present and future w203 AMG owners.
This is for all of you and hopefully to save the c32 from ending up in a junk yard��

 

Did you replace the solenoid or no? I also followed this thread for a long time before I replaced mine... I replaced the solenoid and it immediately and significantly reduced the 1-2 gear change 'bump'. I do feel a tiny bump on occasion, but not like before the replacement. I would say that it was definitely a good move to replace the PMW solenoid. I did it myself and it took some time and research. I hate the thought of taking it to someone who may not care as much as me and I get to learn in the process.
After that I had a 40 mph 'shudder' which I thought meant I had the dreaded glycol contamination and possibly my torque converter somehow was toast (not a mechanic by any stretch and mainly have learned here in the forum) ... I sent some fluid to https://www.blackstone-labs.com/transmission.php and it came back "a little metal but nothing terrible'. No glycol. Turns our the irritating 40 mph shudder was the 1-4 MM spacer on the rear differential. I had also replaced the motor mounts at the same time I did the solenoid and the spacer (factory on mine was 4 mm) needed to be adjusted down to 1 MM. I now have a 2002 C32 with ~150K on it and she runs like a champ. I mean RUNS like a champ! Now if I can get some new doors (rust has started on 3 of the four doors - lower edges) I'll keep her going and toss on some new rims. Been shopping for an SL65 just not sure I need 600 horses. I know... who doesn't. Good luck with the solenoid. I recall I was like 'found it!' when I first saw this -thread - acted - and boom, fixed. Let us know how yours works out...

 

I have not replaced the solenoid yet, but will certainly replace it after reading that. I very much agree with your view we are very much alike and I'm sure everyone else on the forum. I am brand new this has been great help thus far. I checked my driveshaft for play and it was moving around slightly. Looked like the flex discs were starting to crack as well. I will certainly look into the diff spacer you are referring to as well. I'm sure the trans mount and engine mounts need replaced as well. I really love the car, but for the price tag it is carrying at the moment it makes me second guess what I'm dumping my money into. Have so much money wrapped in the thing from a cracked intercooler from the supercharger and the left headlight being intermittent it would almost be dumb to get rid of it. Headlight still to this day acts up, but works 90 precent of the time sitll have to track that down. Hoping this all works I will keep it posted.

 

I still have yet to replace this solenoid, but I have not forgotten this thread. Mercedes tech who I personally know thinks torque converter clutches are shot and thinks their is glycol contamination. Valeo radiator old crimps equates to the assumption. I still think it could be the solenoid because when the solenoid is disengaged he said there is no judder... but Im not mechanic by any means and not going to tell him he's wrong obviously. I did see a mention about a failed water pump causing similar issues. My water pump is wobbling like crazy at the moment I am very glad I popped the hood to check the bearing noise i was hearing....the belt was almost coming off the pump because the pulley was wobbling so bad. I have a lot of performance parts now and am about 2k in over my head into a parts car, so now Im keeping the amg forever and it will become a track star by spring 2019 hopefully. I will certainly keep the thread posted to anything I do and I will eventually fix this problem as I have an entire used trans ready to be bolted up at any moment if this stupid judder cant get resolved by the solenoid or water pump.
P.S.
I bought a 330ci ZHP to turn into a track car because I was fed up with the c32..... well my username still holds true but the e46 does well out handle the Mercedes as expected. Should be for an interesting showdown on a track.

 

 

Pulse width modulation. I also believe it is referred to as a TCC solenoid too if I'm not mistaken. That stands for torque converter clutch lock up solenoid.

 

I've had my car for almost two months. I have the similar issue on my 2009 E63; not during any shifting like the C/E55's mentioned; but when cold and coming to a stop the car jerks hard like a bad downshift. When warm it doesn't do it. I'd imagine its the same PWM solenoid issue...would you agree?

thanks all

 

That sounds like it might be the shift solenoid or shift pressure regulating solenoid I can't exactly remember which ones are which there are quite a few. If you look up a NAG1 transmission manual you can find an entire document for the 722.6 but I believe the e63 is a 722.9 which is the NAG2 transmission. If you have 7gear speed shift it is the .9 hope that helps a little. You might be low on trans fluid I would start with that first but I hear checking the fluid on a 722.9 is basically up for opinion something like fill until you see a steady stream come out that is about pencil thin or something to that matter. There's no level indicator/dip stick for it from my understand.

 

Thank you for the input. I just had all fluids flushed last month, and unfortunately I'm getting around to reading about this now haha. The previous posts here that have images/pics of the solenoids on the VB are great and will come in handy; but of course you are right and I need to make sure it isn't a different setup or placement on my tranny.

 

If I'm not mistaken I think those pictures are from a 722.9 Definitley make sure you have the correct transmission before ordering the solenoids. Did you flush your transmission fluid or did Mercedes/inde shop? I know after I did my own flush the problem increased ssignificantly I honestly probably got dust or something in there or diluted the original fluid which exposed the problem more. The tiniest dirt particles can wreak havoc on our transmissions you have to play surgery if you plan on dropping the valve body yourself. I have personally still have never dropped the valve body but may do it in the near future.

 

I had an indy Mercedes shop do all the flushes. Used OEM tranny fluid directly from the dealership. The owner has an E55. Yes, I have read that when opening the VB you have to be very careful and not get it dirty touching everything. thanks again for the input and stuff I need to consider. It is embarrassing when my car does this. Good thing I drive by myself most of the time, or let it warm up before the family crawls in.

 

Hi guys I joined this forum specifically because i found this thread and i feel like i am having the same issue.


I have a C320 CDI SPORT with 122k on the clock. I've noticed a jerk sometimes hard and sometimes soft when I'm slowing down. More specifically when my car is slowing down from 11mph to 0mph there is a jerk. I am assuming this is a jerk from gear 2 to gear 1. And has been persistent since i bought the car only a few months ago.


I've noticed that it doesn't happen when the engine is cold but more after my engine has warmer up to 90C...unusual as most people in here report the problem when the engine is cold.


I've also noticed that after i turn off the engine and restart maybe half an hour later whilst the engine is relatively warm the issue doesn't occur. Strange i know!


Anyway, literally yesterday I've had my transmission serviced and the problem is still there. Am i having the same issue as everyone else in here. I did my transmission service at an independent mercedes specialist.


So I emailed them and told them my car still jerks when slowing down, and they said and i quote


"It might be that the gearbox needs an update to the software, or it needs the adaptations resetting.


If these do not cure it then it may need a new gearbox in the engine."


So i thought I'd ask people who had this issue resolved what i should do next?


I read on another thread that i should try a transmission ecu reset?


Shall i do this first then get back or is my issue a pwm solenoid issue?


I'm noob to cars and this is my first MB so any help would appreciated!


​​​

 

I was having a similar issue with the 722.6 trans in my 2006 E320 CDI w/200k. Slight judder/oscillation under hard acceleration or climbing hills... RPMs had a slight fluctuation at cruising speeds...jerky 1-2 shifts when cold...with the occasional shudder coming to a stop. Purchased a new TCC/PWM solenoid on ebay for less than $30 and had it installed at a local transmission shop and now my transmission almost shifts like new.

 

I´m glad it worked out for you! :-)

Changing this solenoid had improved ridequality for so many.

 

I've had a chat again with the Mercedes specialist and he's suggested that i shift up from 1 to 2 and 2 to 1 on a quiet road so that the car learns my shifting pattern. He said do this before I tear open the gearbox and fiddle with it.

I am sure like you guys that it's the Pwm solenoid because all the symptoms are the same. Anyway i will try what he suggested and then go back to him.

 

How much did you pay to the transmission shop for replacing TCC/PWM solenoid part # 240-270-17-00 ?

 

What is the Part no. for superchager pulley bearing / NSK bearing that you had replaced?
I am changing TCC solenoid (240-270-17-00) on my 2007 E350 4Matic for 'jerk' issue,
and might as well change pulley bearing with NSK bearing to address the engine noise. issue?

 

do you know if the solenoid had to be programmed? or isit jus plug and play ?

glad to know it sorted your issue

my 722.9 box has just had a new control plate and on cold morning start or after 8hrs it will jolt from 2nd to 3rd or have a springy gear change

 

Did you resolve this issue? I bought my car a few months ago, and it has the jolt for the 2-3 shift when cold.

 

Hi every body'
My transmission model 722.695
When i let off the throttle at speeds between 25-35km, (maybe on second gear) and i am getting slow,I can see the RPM's drop down to 900 or so, which I believe is the converter unlocking. When I get back on the throttle, the RPM's will climb to 2000rpm where the RPM's abruptly drop down to 1700rpm (converter locking up, i'm guessing) That abrupt drop is so sloppy, it jerks the car.