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Thanks to everyone in this thread for replacing the PWM solenoid and sharing your success with eliminating the jerking while the transmission is cold.
This is the only thing with my 2013 cls63 amg I absolutely hated.
although this thread didn't mention success with my 766.9 transmission, the symptoms were the same as the previous transmission models. I had the PWM solenoid replaced yesterday and the jerk is gone!!! I'm so happy!
Nobody I spoke with at any repair shops thought that replacing the PWM solenoid would solve it. I say "in your face!" you can't imagine how many shops refused to do the work. Nearly all of them insisted i replace conductor plate and valve body. That was a $2000 minimum cost. It cost me $600 to give it a shot. If that didn't work I would already have 1 of the solenoid needed.
not only is the jerk gone the car just all around feel tight smooth. I'm very happy I decided to chance replacing the one solenoid and not gone all out with everything .
Btw...my car has on 30k miles . The transmission isn't due to be serviced for 20k more miles.
Super hard to diagnose. Itwasn't throwing codes because it wasn't broken, it was simply sticky until the fluid got hot.
Hi
i have same car cls63 2014 gear 722.9 i have same problem do you have the part number for the solenoid that you replace or photo?
This might be a new thread question but I have a vibration that's RPM based, seems most prominent around 1500 RPM.
Definitely feels like driveline as at the same speed after it upshifts, the vibration goes away.
I did change the driveshaft mounts as I was getting acceleration vibration in the driveline. Guibos were torn up pretty good. Replaced the driveshaft bearing too.
I also have the jerk when the the TC locks up around 1800RPM or so.
Sometimes it will even lurch like i'm pressing the throttle in and letting go really fast over and over(within a second).
I'm thinking bad TC, I don't think the TC solenoid not applying enough pressure would cause a vibration but I ordered it anyways.
Any ideas?
After 4 months I got my car fixed! It was the crankshaft position sensor, it finally gave 2 errors which lead to it! Apparently the jerk it’s caused because the computer can’t read the signal from the engine and the transmission and fuel pump gets cut off! Also the engine runs way smoother and less noisy!
After 4 months I got my car fixed! It was the crankshaft position sensor, it finally gave 2 errors which lead to it! Apparently the jerk it’s caused because the computer can’t read the signal from the engine and the transmission and fuel pump gets cut off! Also the engine runs way smoother and less noisy!
Hi, do you have the part number?
What’s your symptom before? Is the RPM drop at around 1800RPM in first gear and the jerk happen? Thank you!
Hi, do you have the part number?
What’s your symptom before? Is the RPM drop at around 1800RPM in first gear and the jerk happen? Thank you!
The only symptoms the car presented was a hard jerk when I try to accelerate really hard which is uncommon for a faulty position sensor but I guess the transmission and fuel pump gets cut off when the computer can’t read what the sensor is supposed to do! Usually a faulty position sensor causes other symptoms! https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.aut...sition-sensor/ ! This link is for the part! https://www.mercedesbenzpartscenter....IFJlc3VsdHM%3D
Bought a new 2020 s63 coupe, having the same jerk problem at 1st to 2nd gear.
i noticed by accelerating slowly i can avoid this jerk by hitting the “sweet spot”. However if i just accelerate how i normally would, i get this jerk. The car is pretty much brand new around 300miles.
should i explain to the dealer/service center i need the pwm solenoid replaced?
Bought a new 2020 s63 coupe, having the same jerk problem at 1st to 2nd gear.
i noticed by accelerating slowly i can avoid this jerk by hitting the “sweet spot”. However if i just accelerate how i normally would, i get this jerk. The car is pretty much brand new around 300miles.
should i explain to the dealer/service center i need the pwm solenoid replaced?
Your posting in the wrong section bud. There is a very slim chance of it being a defective part w/ your current mileage. I recently considered purchasing a C43 and kept reading about weird shifting issues. It sounds similar to what your experiencing.
I recommend asking the dealership if there is a software update. This tends to be the issue and most assume faulty parts are the culprit which is not the case.
Finally I bought the selenoid (A1402770435)
and transmission electric kit (A1402701161). These parts seem to be updated for my car according to the russian web site that I use. Bought the swag for electric kit and vemo selenoid. I have to buy the A240270089 selenoids too.
I am planining to change them at next oil change,20k kms to go.
As a kind reminder, vemo site shows a cw2 version of the 089 valves. Updated again or revised? No idea. I think I will get them as they release them.
Bought them from Germany, thanks to my brother living there.
I will try to let you guys know about the results as soon as I get them replaced.
Fingers crossed!
Finally I bought the selenoid (A1402770435)
and transmission electric kit (A1402701161). These parts seem to be updated for my car according to the russian web site that I use. Bought the swag for electric kit and vemo selenoid. I have to buy the A240270089 selenoids too.
I am planining to change them at next oil change,20k kms to go.
As a kind reminder, vemo site shows a cw2 version of the 089 valves. Updated again or revised? No idea. I think I will get them as they release them.
Bought them from Germany, thanks to my brother living there.
I will try to let you guys know about the results as soon as I get them replaced.
Fingers crossed!
I just started have this jerk in the transmission from Park To Drive or Reverse and it basically Stuck in 1st Gear Limp Mode, I used the DAS Clear the Codes and they came back..
so I replaced the conductor Plate & Pilot Bushing that didn't Help. Then I Had the Valve Body Replaced and checked the TCU & Wire harness For Oil all Clean, Clear the Codes in the ECU & TCU. and its still stuck in First Gear.
the crazy part is.. all the codes are pointing towards the TCU, but when i access the TCU there is no Fault Codes in there.
see attached Picture. One Indy shop is telling me I should replaced the Transmission
I just started have this jerk in the transmission from Park To Drive or Reverse and it basically Stuck in 1st Gear Limp Mode, I used the DAS Clear the Codes and they came back..
so I replaced the conductor Plate & Pilot Bushing that didn't Help. Then I Had the Valve Body Replaced and checked the TCU & Wire harness For Oil all Clean, Clear the Codes in the ECU & TCU. and its still stuck in First Gear.
the crazy part is.. all the codes are pointing towards the TCU, but when i access the TCU there is no Fault Codes in there.
see attached Picture. One Indy shop is telling me I should replaced the Transmission
No Codes To Clear
so you have replace every part but they one that this thread says will fix your issue?
did you check the tcu to make sure it was not full of fluid?
The TCC solenoid fixed my harsh lockup/shift when cold between first and second gear. I had no other issues like harsh engagement or harsh shift in other gears. I did clean the wiring connector at the same time, possibly slightly oily.
Excellent thread My code stored in the TCU of 722.9 is P2783 The friction power of the torque converter lockup clutch is too high.
Got the rpm fluctuation issue @1800-2000rpm and idle, occasional bump when cold and downshifting to 1st gear, sometimes locking at high rpm after hard acceleration and refusing to downshift for a while - i.e. in comfort/normal mode should not do this.
Any suggestions on where to start with repairs? Fully serviced transmission fluids before 20k km at the dealer. I don't know if the code was present at the time.
Does replacing the lock-up clutch make any sense or start with PWM Solenoid?
Wondering if anyone else on this thread got the same code resolved? Thanks!
C55 AMG T with Kleemann K2 and some stuff: 414 hp and 562 Nm :-)
This thread is related to the 5-G gearbox (722.6) and you got the 7-G, therefore I can´t answer your question.
It´s normal for our gearboxes to stay in gear for a while after aggressive driving, it "thinks" you´ll continue to drive like that and are ready for it.
The cause of fluctuations in rpm can be a number of reasons, often vacuumleaks or maybe a damaged coil.
I have a c450 with a 722.9 gearbox and i have an issue when leaving from a stand still. Gearbox jerks just like if in a manual transmission you rapidly let the clutch off on the last 20% of engaging. Car leaves ok and then a small jerk. At first I thought it was a 1st to 2nd shift issue but my car starts in 2nd gear from a stand still in confort mode. If I put it in manual mode and start on 1st, does the same so it's not shifting related issue.
I changed oil and filter but made no difference.
I really hope I explained it ok. Although it's not a big issue, it's still anoying over time. Would this be related to the famous pwm solenoid?
I have a c450 with a 722.9 gearbox and i have an issue when leaving from a stand still. Gearbox jerks just like if in a manual transmission you rapidly let the clutch off on the last 20% of engaging. Car leaves ok and then a small jerk. At first I thought it was a 1st to 2nd shift issue but my car starts in 2nd gear from a stand still in confort mode. If I put it in manual mode and start on 1st, does the same so it's not shifting related issue.
I changed oil and filter but made no difference.
I really hope I explained it ok. Although it's not a big issue, it's still anoying over time. Would this be related to the famous pwm solenoid?
Regards.
Check your gearbox mount..makes a big big difference too
I have a c450 with a 722.9 gearbox and i have an issue when leaving from a stand still. Gearbox jerks just like if in a manual transmission you rapidly let the clutch off on the last 20% of engaging. Car leaves ok and then a small jerk. At first I thought it was a 1st to 2nd shift issue but my car starts in 2nd gear from a stand still in confort mode. If I put it in manual mode and start on 1st, does the same so it's not shifting related issue.
I changed oil and filter but made no difference.
I really hope I explained it ok. Although it's not a big issue, it's still anoying over time. Would this be related to the famous pwm solenoid?
Regards.
This thread is about the 722.6 which is a different gearbox than the 722.9 you have.
Hello everybidy,
think you for this post.
I have a similar problem with my car since i have it 7 mounths ago.
Hard Jerk when engin is cold from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3td speed and some hesitation about 1500 and somtimes 1800 RPM.
Since last sunday in the fist startup when i past from P to R or D the engine die (i.dont know how can i explain it but the engine put out *sorry for my bad english*). Then i startup the car and i need to let it on to be hot about 5 min and then i can move it with alwyas the same symptoms jeking for at less 15 min and then the car go more better.
when the temperature is about 85°C, jeking returns but not aggressively like when the engine is cold.
Any help please.
Best regards.
Last edited by RayIlyIya; Apr 12, 2022 at 09:58 PM.
Hello everybidy,
think you for this post.
I have a similar problem with my car since i have it 7 mounths ago.
Hard Jerk when engin is cold from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3td speed and some hesitation about 1500 and somtimes 1800 RPM.
Since last sunday in the fist startup when i past from P to R or D the engine die (i.dont know how can i explain it but the engine put out *sorry for my bad english*). Then i startup the car and i need to let it on to be hot about 5 min and then i can move it with alwyas the same symptoms jeking for at less 15 min and then the car go more better.
when the temperature is about 85°C, jeking returns but not aggressively like when the engine is cold.
Any help please.
Best regards.
I changed the gear oil, filter and join.
Cleanup the hydraulic bloc.
And i'm waiting to know if i need to change just the seloind A140 277 04 35 (i have a TCM solenoid A 140 277 04 35 used one *not new*) or if i need to change the TC (Torque Converter).
this morning in the first startup the engine die twice after i passed P to R and P to D.
Any help please.
Last edited by RayIlyIya; Apr 13, 2022 at 10:06 AM.
Hi guys, first time writing here. I have a 2007 W211 diesel. I changed the oil in the transmission, drained the whole system by disconnecting the return line from the transmission oil cooler. Filled the transmission with 5 liters, opened the return line, started the car, drained 1 liter, added 1 liter. Did this until there was clean fluid coming through. After the oil change I have a jerk from 1st to 2nd. The thing is that if I check the oil level in the transmission, by removing the plug while the transmission is warm, in Park, engine running there is no oil dripping out. I thought its supposed to have a steady trickle, not pouring. But in my case there nothing coming out and I pumped 11 liters in it. I thought the total capacity is 9 liters. I did put 9 liters initially and the jerk was bad between 1-2 and during downshifting from higher gears. Once I had more fluid the only jerk is between 1-2. Maybe I lost more fluid while I was draining the return line. Maybe there's not enough fluid?! Need help! Thank you
Last edited by MilosCovaci; May 1, 2022 at 11:33 PM.
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you can't imagine how many shops refused to do the work. Nearly all of them insisted i replace conductor plate and valve body. That was a $2000 minimum cost. It cost me $600 to give it a shot. If that didn't work I would already have 1 of the solenoid needed.
