Okay so I got the solenoid installed on Saturday. My mechanic was very skeptical and showed me the old one which looked fine. He thinks it's the fuel pump.

So far I've only noticed a slight jerk once driving for like 5-10 seconds then after that it's fine. I should be driving again Tuesday night.

I will report back with my results.

Thanks!

 

Some interesting finds once again here on this topic.

 

Noooo!!!!! It's still doing it! I guess I should try changing the fuel pump and the fuel sender unit. This is so frustrating.

 

Hi All!

I'm experiencing these same issues with our 2004 C320 Sport 4-Door Sedan while driving in city, once on highway it goes away, but you feel a little hesitation every now and then, like a if you had a plug or wiring issue, but barely. Anyways, next weekend I will first have all three mounts replaced to smooth things out... then onto the PWM solenoid.

I put together a picture, and color coded all three valves talked about throughout this post; names and part #'s are those shown on MB of South Atlanta's site www.mbpartsworld.com, but I know they have some variations here and there, so do your homework. This is just to point out how many per set you might need, and where each go.

Good Luck to all, and looking to fix my jerking soon! ;-]#

 

Hi, Been reading through this thread, i'm currently experiencing a lot of the similar issues.


Transmission..slip..leak..lurching forward upon coming to full stop.. help?
2006 c230 165,000km (just started happening 2 weeks ago)

Hello All,
Any advice would be much appreciated, thank you!

I've been noticing the past 2 weeks now, that i believe may be a transmission issue, looking for some advice as to what i should do next to remedy the current situation, and or my options. Thanks for any replies in advance! cheers.

Symptoms,

I've been noticing from a cold start, rolling out of the driveway put in gear to move forward, and only between 1-2rpm that the car seems to lurch(jerk) forward, like a slip or something a forward lurch of the car. I notice this only from cold starts, then drives normal, will happen once in awhile, not often when car is warm.


Noticing this symptom frequently,

upon coming to a breaking stop, almost every time, car will do the same thing. just before i'm about to reach a full stop, and from any speed fast or slow coming to a stop. Car will lurch(jerk) forward, like a down shift issue or slip, and between 1000-2000rmp usually.

mercedes benz dealership,

just got my vehicle back from the dealership, i think they did a half *** diagnostic, anyway. This what their customer service advisor said on the service receipt. " Transmission has a leak in area of pan gasket. Topped up transmission fluid."

" recommend full transmission fluid and filter change $450.00 plus tax (may need possible transmission) If concern persists after transmission fluid change."

They said it was down 2 litres trans fluid, after i got the car drove it for a little bit, i noticed similar symptoms happening mentioned above. considerably not as often coming to a breaking stop, and very mild lurch forward from a cold start.


Help/Advice
Not sure what my best course of action is to take, with out spending a fortune.
Has anyone experienced a similar situation, Will a flush and trans mission fluid change and re sealing potential leak fix the issue? or will i be wasting time and money not really fixing the problem? is it just a valve sticking, where is the leak exactly coming from, just questions on my mind.

 

A Mercedes dealership diagnostic should be able to determine if it is the transmission valve body, which sounds like it could be the case. If this is your problem changing the fluid is just throwing away money as you will need to re-drain to fix the transmission later. When was the transmission fluid last changed? I've found that it needs to be done as a preventative measure and if you are experiencing issues new fluid may exacerbate the problems. A decent indy mechanic can swap the valve body and solenoids for under a grand in my experience, and that should include the replacement fluid.

 

...this is my update! ...when the issue first appeared I went to an indy mechanic -very well recommended- and seemed to have the knowledge and gadgets. When he drove the car, first thing he recommended was to check/replace motor & tranny mounts, since car trembled a lot when coming to a stop and speeding up from a stop, and during those shifting issues, since it exaggerated the jerking of the car in lower speed. He definetly felt the fault and first suggested the tranny fluid and filter change, especially cause no faults were being shown when plugging in his compu. He also replaced a part -don't recall the name- supposedly when faulty it lets fluid travel upward through the wiring to the comp, and once fluid gets to it, it might damage the comp. So after changing the filter and fluid, and replacing that part, he went on to check the comp, and indeed fluid was present, but thought not enough to have damaged it. Put everything back together and went out on a trial run. Fault still present, and said that might be a solenoid issue. I left the garage without having him check further, left it for a latter date. In the meantime got the mounts and did some research about the fault and found out that many people had solved it by replacing the "torque/shift solenoid". I passed my findings to my mechanic and finally went there yesterday to take care of the mounts. Mounts were replaced, went out for test run, rumbling and vibration went away, but jerking still present. He got and tested the car in different settings, driving it in C and S in Automatic mode and the jerk was still present, but when driven in Manual mode, it went away totally, so suggested it was an electronic fault. Thinking it might be the computer acting up we went back and hooked up his comp, ran some tests again, and still no fault at was shown, everything checked fine for the comp. He didn't remember if he "reset" the tranny comp when he replaced the fluids back then, so decided to reset it and let it "learn" again. VOILÀ! JERKING WENT AWAY! I haven't driven it more, but this week I'll be testing it further. He concluded that fluid and filter had to be way overdue when we did it, and dirtying things up that started the fault (I don't think it had ever been replaced, it is my wife's car and she already had it whe we married). His mistake was to oversee resetting the tranny comp then. He was against changing solenoids, mostly because system didn't show a fault, and it was an expensive and a delicate job, to unmount and swap just to "see" if the prob gets solved, so he preferred from cheapest solution to expensive, so started with maintenance. So far I've spent nearly $700 ($300 for part, filter & fluid change, nearly $400 in mounts, replacement and tranny comp reset), hopefully the reset will be the end of it. Hope this update helps! Good luck! #GoLEWIS #MercedesAMGF1 #VROOM ;-]#

 

...check all earlier posts, I uploaded a diagram pointing out all solenoids, and the one many have replaced and solved their issues, in case the maintenance & resetting doesn't do the trick for you. Good luck again!

 

I need some help with the correct part number for the TCC/PWM solenoid. EPC is showing me A1402770435 but many places say that A2402701700 is the new version. I even found some places where it's A2402770100.. However, according to EPC (I'm running 11/2015) A2402701700 and A2402770100 don't exist at all. I'm a bit confused.. The VIN is WDB2110841B245631

 

You cant buy wrong solenoid, there is only one PWM and it is same all 722.6 boxes.
Even here you can buy it from Mercedes dealer deacent costs.


And if you have ton of money, chance conductor plate also, and electric/harness part with O-rings.

 

The correct P/N for (TCC/PWM) solenoid is: "140 277 04 35" only...

-;ZAYED;-

 

i had this same problem may be for a year. In cold starts, and for about the first 15 minuets of driving, when shifting from gear one to gear two, the car jurks in a very strong aggressive way! Your coffee will be spilled for sure! It jurks forth and back as if it is a spring-effect jerk.

After it is warmed, jurk disappears, but you can feel 5% of it, like a mini springy vibrations but still great.

Anyways, i had to change it fearing for the gear and also to smoothen my drive; it was embarrassing.

Changed Gear Oil - didn’t work.
Changed Gear Mount - didn’t work.
Changed Gear Calibration (software) - didn’t work.
Gear computer have nothing to do with it.

The Garage was about to dismount the whole Gear because he noticed some metal dust in the gear oil but decided to check one last thing: VALVE BODY!

It is located under the gear. It also contained some important Solenoids. I have attached the picture. He tested it with a used one. It worked like magic.

The gear is like new now; thanking Allah!

 

í have a problem like that , but mine slip a lilert , you have photo or the part number of soleinoids??

 

I do not know. But i replaced the whole valve including the solenoids for around $300 including labor charges. Bare in mind it is a second hand item. Also, mine was sort of a slip, a strong slip.

 

í need replace that too , if you or other have the part number let me know

 

i will try to post the part number...

 

I have a feeling, for that cost, you replaced the conductor plate.

 

I have replaced the whole heavy steel part. It is second hand. And the engineer told me the name is “body valve...” and i saw it.

 

being second hand makes a huge difference. Sounds like you still got a good deal.

 

Guys, I have been reading alot about these tranny issues for a while. I am really lost. After reading this topic, I think I need some new solenoids as well. Would you advice me please?

First issue was the hard hit when the gear shifts to 2-1. It makes alot when I come to a halt in a ramp slowing down.
Second is the weird shifting like there is a spring during shifting. There is a hesitation during the 2-3 shifting as well.
I took it to mb services, several indies. Never got a code. Never ever. Had the oil change at specified intervals with 236.10 oil.
One indie said tcu to be replaced, one said conductor plate. One said full flush with a 236.14 oil.
Would it be the pwm soleniod to go with? WIS shows 6 solenoids and it would 2k to change all.(No joke, if you own a mercedes in my country, things might get really expensive)
I bought valvoline atf and trans oil filter but thinking to get the solenoid replaced before the flushing.
I was thinking to replace it on my won but seems like it needs reprogamming so... Need an indie

 

It sounds like you might have several of the solenoids at fault. The difficulty is that there's not a great way to know whether it's the solenoids, conductor plate, or both. The conductor plate is responsible for taking the electrical connections from the solenoids to the connector on the outside of the transmission, and it also has several sensors built into it (input / output speed sensors, fluid temperature sensor, and some range indication sensor(s)). This is sort of crossing into what I just wrote over on the other recent thread about transmission jerkiness, but in a nutshell it's not that easy to properly test the solenoids unless you have a test fixture that fits them. You can do the electrical resistance test, and if it fails that it is bad... but if it passes that it may or may not be good. There are still mechanical issues (such as wear or stickiness) that could be preventing it from functioning properly. The test fixtures are pressurized with air, with the solenoid(s) installed, and their operation can be validated by actuating them electrically to either block air or allow air to pass.

Odds are pretty good that a new conductor plate and a set of those refurbished solenoids would take care of your problems, but there are some tests you could do that might help narrow it down (see the other thread I just posted in, https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...erk-trans.html ). Any issues you had after that I think would be caused by either improperly refurbished solenoids (I've no idea how likely that is, but it's always a risk I guess) or something mechanical in the transmission internals (seems unlikely, since these transmissions are known to be extremely robust, mechanically).

EDIT: You probably already know this, but disconnect the plug at the conductor plate connector on the outside of the transmission, and see if there's oil leaking through it. That can damage the module and probably cause all manner of symptoms. Also, make sure the fluid level is correct - if it isn't, then everything else is guesswork.

 

Dear mars-red,

Thanks a lot for your kind information. I called the Mb Service yesterday again to ask the prices of the solenoids and the conductor plate. Service manager is a good friend of mine, told me that the best thing would the change all valve body including the conductor plate, solenoids which costs little more than 2k. Cant effort it right now at all. He persistently told me not change anything unless there are any codes. He said a service in another city(which is a bit far) disassembles the valve body cleans everything and put it together in these issues which might be helpful. I asked him if a full flush can solve my issues and he said first go for it, check the TCU and dont change anything without a code.
What I really like is to change all solenoids and the conductor plate... But really cant this time, I already spend some cash on struts, mounts, rotors, pads, sensors, tires... I thought of buying those from china but it would be pretty stupid imo. They sell a set of solenoids and conductor plate less than 200 dollars... I will go for a full flash to give it a chance at this point.
How much the transmission will be damaged if there are any solenoids faulty? Would it speed up any wear?
Thank you very much for the link as well.

 

Thanks to everyone in this thread for replacing the PWM solenoid and sharing your success with eliminating the jerking while the transmission is cold.

This is the only thing with my 2013 cls63 amg I absolutely hated.

although this thread didn't mention success with my 766.9 transmission, the symptoms were the same as the previous transmission models. I had the PWM solenoid replaced yesterday and the jerk is gone!!! I'm so happy!

Nobody I spoke with at any repair shops thought that replacing the PWM solenoid would solve it. I say "in your face!" you can't imagine how many shops refused to do the work. Nearly all of them insisted i replace conductor plate and valve body. That was a $2000 minimum cost. It cost me $600 to give it a shot. If that didn't work I would already have 1 of the solenoid needed.

not only is the jerk gone the car just all around feel tight smooth. I'm very happy I decided to chance replacing the one solenoid and not gone all out with everything .

Btw...my car has on 30k miles . The transmission isn't due to be serviced for 20k more miles.

Super hard to diagnose. Itwasn't throwing codes because it wasn't broken, it was simply sticky until the fluid got hot.

 

As a threadstarter, I am very happy another one could be helped!

As a matter of fact, I´ve just chaged that PWM-solenoid again. This time it wasn´t because of jerkiness at cold starts, it was because the lock-up function
had become diffuse; it took longer than normal for the lock-up to grip so to say. Even at light throttle and steady speed, the lock-up hesitated if it should
lock up or not. The tachometer would slightly jump up and down. Very frustrating! If I pushed the car harder, the problem almost went away until I started
cruising again.
I took a gamble and changed the PWM-solenoid, with a successful result! The gearchanges are crispier (more sporty) and it locks up fast as it should again.
Even the engine breaking is much more pronounced.
The solenoid itself costs around USD 60 here, but the work a lot more with oil, filter etc. "Worth every penny!"

 

I hear this term lock-up but cannot seem to find any information about what that is, and what the symptoms are like. how does the car behave with it''s locked-up?