C32 entire car shut down
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
From: Australia Vic
C32 AMG, CLA45
C32 entire car shut down
Hi everyone. I need your expertise here, any help is much appreciated!!! This is the fourth times it happened in the past 2 years (twice within the last 2 months) and never happened before that.
2002 C32 with just under 100,000 miles/160,000 kms.
Incident: Stop at traffic light (totally flat surface with 90% full of fuel), on sport shift mode 1st gear, when light turned green, as soon as I leg go the brake before I step on the accelerator, the entire car shut down. Not only the engine, lights, radio, all shut down instantly, put back to park and start the key, it would fire straight up and continue my journey. This happen 2 times in the last 2 months. Engine should have been warmed up in both occasions Driven over 10 miles before the incident). Other than the engine light which is to do with secondary pump, NO OTHER lights showing at all.
Recent fix: Have the engine gaskets replaced due to slight leak and also changed all Bosch spark plugs (6 months ago) . Replaced Secondary Air Pump 3 months ago (But could be a faulty unit since the engine light is on again and I used OBDII to check and came up pump failure). Also changed alternator 2 months ago as the unit was not charging and have a slight burn smell. Didn't drive much due to the pandemic (less than 400 miles). When started engine, some fuel/burn smell is definitely noticeable. Car was serviced 8 months ago with 0W40 Mobil 1.
Could somebody pointing me to the right path?
Many thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
JC
2002 C32 with just under 100,000 miles/160,000 kms.
Incident: Stop at traffic light (totally flat surface with 90% full of fuel), on sport shift mode 1st gear, when light turned green, as soon as I leg go the brake before I step on the accelerator, the entire car shut down. Not only the engine, lights, radio, all shut down instantly, put back to park and start the key, it would fire straight up and continue my journey. This happen 2 times in the last 2 months. Engine should have been warmed up in both occasions Driven over 10 miles before the incident). Other than the engine light which is to do with secondary pump, NO OTHER lights showing at all.
Recent fix: Have the engine gaskets replaced due to slight leak and also changed all Bosch spark plugs (6 months ago) . Replaced Secondary Air Pump 3 months ago (But could be a faulty unit since the engine light is on again and I used OBDII to check and came up pump failure). Also changed alternator 2 months ago as the unit was not charging and have a slight burn smell. Didn't drive much due to the pandemic (less than 400 miles). When started engine, some fuel/burn smell is definitely noticeable. Car was serviced 8 months ago with 0W40 Mobil 1.
Could somebody pointing me to the right path?
Many thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
JC
Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 224
Likes: 59
From: WEST
190E, C36, C55, CLK55, ML55
sounds like battery to me, I would start there. also, make sure you completely clicked in your spark plug boots to the tops of the plugs. Some brands of wires really need to be pushed on to actually click down, lack of doing this resulted in sporadic shut downs and weird behavior on my C55 before I realized.
It would be a good idea also to post what brand parts you got and where you got them.
It would be a good idea also to post what brand parts you got and where you got them.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 292
Likes: 19
From: Sunny CA
2005 S55 AMG Designo, (sold)2001 ML55 Designo, (sold)2004 C32 AMG, RIP 2005 Volvo s40 2.4i
Could be the spark plugs but then it would just misfire unless you’re getting no spark from all cylinders and that would mean 6 bad coils/ 12 bad plugs which is highly unlikely and if it is the case then prepare to spend about 200 at least for a complete set.
I doubt your alternator is the problem unless your odometer screen is turning red and loudly beeping every 5-10 minutes from low battery voltage.
If you’ve replaced a lot on the car I would not look there yet. If you say you smell fuel then it could be a failing fuel pump or sender unit, or fuel filter. I doubt your injectors are causing a leak and there is a fuel hose in the top of your engine driver side that is near the air intake plenum that might be leaking or not fully torqued.
I had an issue about 7 months ago where my car would lose power and then shutoff. I did not smell fuel but it felt like a fuel problem. Fortunately I had a OBD reader and got a code for crankshaft position sensor. These are inexpensive, a pain in the *** to replace, and can easily cause your car to lose power while driving or at a stop (hence why it lost power while accelerating after releasing the brake)
I suggest you plug in a code reader and get some codes first. If no codes, get back to us with more info.
are you in SoCal?
I doubt your alternator is the problem unless your odometer screen is turning red and loudly beeping every 5-10 minutes from low battery voltage.
If you’ve replaced a lot on the car I would not look there yet. If you say you smell fuel then it could be a failing fuel pump or sender unit, or fuel filter. I doubt your injectors are causing a leak and there is a fuel hose in the top of your engine driver side that is near the air intake plenum that might be leaking or not fully torqued.
I had an issue about 7 months ago where my car would lose power and then shutoff. I did not smell fuel but it felt like a fuel problem. Fortunately I had a OBD reader and got a code for crankshaft position sensor. These are inexpensive, a pain in the *** to replace, and can easily cause your car to lose power while driving or at a stop (hence why it lost power while accelerating after releasing the brake)
I suggest you plug in a code reader and get some codes first. If no codes, get back to us with more info.
are you in SoCal?
Last edited by Oshkoshbigjosh; May 12, 2020 at 06:23 PM.
Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 224
Likes: 59
From: WEST
190E, C36, C55, CLK55, ML55
Not spark plugs, the actual wire boots that click to the top of them, if they aren’t clicked on is what I meant. Probably not the case, but it lead me down a rabbit hole before I figured that out. Also agree with the possibility of the crank shaft position sensor. As much info as you can to get the answer following.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
From: Australia Vic
C32 AMG, CLA45
Hi kaixdiego - I initially thought battery could be the case as I have the alternator failed couple of months ago but since I changed to a brand new Velo alternator, I have been closely monitoring the voltage so I access the so called secret menu and voltage shows all the time. Battey is approx 5 years old and definitely not like a new one but maintain approx. 13.5 - 14.1v while driving. A but low when cranking approx 11v. I took to the mechanic to scan for codes, however other than the "secondary air injection system P0410", no other codes can be found. I asked the guy there and he said it is very unlikely the CPS is failed as I don't lose power while driving, and when the car is stop at the light, engine is still perfectly still running. The shut down only happens in the split second when I right foot let go the brake but before I step on the accelerator. On top of that, when is shut down, cigarette lighter, radio all shutdown together. Once I put the gear back to park, I can start the car straight away and the car won't suddenly shut down while driving (at least not yet).
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
From: Australia Vic
C32 AMG, CLA45
Hi Oshkoshbigjosh
I changed all spark plugs within the last 6 months while replacing the gaskets. I don't find the car ever misfire. I use
BOSCH Suppressed Spark Plug FR7KPP33U+
ELRING KLINGER gaskets, and
MAHLE FUEL fuel filter.
I have been constantly monitoring the alternator using the secret menu for voltage and is between 13.5-14.1v while driving as I paid nearly $2000 to fix (only 2 brand new unit in Australia) so the supplier want to jack up the price to $1200 and since the car is already in the mechanic and they have taken the old unit out, I don't really have an option unless I pay them for putting all the things together and pay again when I get the unit from Germany which I know is approx 700 AUD but will take at least 2 weeks to come.
I changed all spark plugs within the last 6 months while replacing the gaskets. I don't find the car ever misfire. I use
BOSCH Suppressed Spark Plug FR7KPP33U+
ELRING KLINGER gaskets, and
MAHLE FUEL fuel filter.
I have been constantly monitoring the alternator using the secret menu for voltage and is between 13.5-14.1v while driving as I paid nearly $2000 to fix (only 2 brand new unit in Australia) so the supplier want to jack up the price to $1200 and since the car is already in the mechanic and they have taken the old unit out, I don't really have an option unless I pay them for putting all the things together and pay again when I get the unit from Germany which I know is approx 700 AUD but will take at least 2 weeks to come.
Member
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 224
Likes: 59
From: WEST
190E, C36, C55, CLK55, ML55
Your voltage is still a bit low so I would have battery tested to be sure but sounds like something else with what you’ve said. I don’t know they possibly of this or if it was an issue for c32 much but the brake light switch could be possible based off the pedal sequence before shutdown. I would go through all fuse and relays as well as their diagrams and see if anything could be the culprit, with no code that is possible. If there is only a code for sai, have you ever cleaned the egr piping out? Check hose in engine bay for vacuum leaks. That’s about all I can think of at the moment but keep this thread alive and keep updating so we can figure it out 👍
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Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
From: Australia Vic
C32 AMG, CLA45
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 12
...
It kind of gets me when some people are so sure they know exactly what the problem is after reading a few sentences. Don’t just throw parts at it. This thread might offer-up some insight: https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c...need-help.html.
GL!
Last edited by RPB; May 25, 2020 at 11:28 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,481
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95 SL600
I had cps failure just like that. Car was idling at temperature and suddenly without warning stalled. This happened 2 times and both times the car starter right back up. The third time however after stalling the car wouldn’t start until it cooled. Cps is pretty inexpensive and would guess that to be the problem.
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 12
...
I had cps failure just like that. Car was idling at temperature and suddenly without warning stalled. This happened 2 times and both times the car starter right back up. The third time however after stalling the car wouldn’t start until it cooled. Cps is pretty inexpensive and would guess that to be the problem.
Last edited by RPB; May 28, 2020 at 11:53 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 53
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From: Melbourne
2002 C32 AMG (SOLD), 2004 C55 AMG
I dont believe it is the CPS. As RPB said, the CPS would show codes and also as JC said, the CPS would result in difficulty starting when hot. Adding to this, a CPS failure would not result in the ENTIRE car shutting down, only the engine. I suspect a main power cable for the battery is damaged, resulting in a poor/intermittent connection and the car shutting down when this connection breaks. Perhaps the main ground, or the wires leading to the front sam, or even the front sam itself. Something along those lines is damaged would be my guess.
Super Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 754
Likes: 12
...
I would begin by checking the connections around the battery and alternator. I don’t think he has anything serious going on. Tracking it down can tend to be a bit of a stickler at times which is hopefully not the case!
Last edited by RPB; Jun 5, 2020 at 07:47 PM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
From: Australia Vic
C32 AMG, CLA45
Thank you everyone who tried to guide me through what could be the real culprit with my situation. Scan didn't come up with any code and my mechanic couldn't pin point the issue either. I mentioned earlier that my battery isn't at its best state when crank sometimes got down to 9.7 then back to 14.1, so just changed a new battery. So far I haven't had another shut down since my post began. I don't want to endlessly pumping money to the mechanic so will see how's the new battery holds up and give it a month to see anymore shut down and give you guys an update. However, I will constantly come back to check any new suggestions.
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 292
Likes: 19
From: Sunny CA
2005 S55 AMG Designo, (sold)2001 ML55 Designo, (sold)2004 C32 AMG, RIP 2005 Volvo s40 2.4i
Thank you everyone who tried to guide me through what could be the real culprit with my situation. Scan didn't come up with any code and my mechanic couldn't pin point the issue either. I mentioned earlier that my battery isn't at its best state when crank sometimes got down to 9.7 then back to 14.1, so just changed a new battery. So far I haven't had another shut down since my post began. I don't want to endlessly pumping money to the mechanic so will see how's the new battery holds up and give it a month to see anymore shut down and give you guys an update. However, I will constantly come back to check any new suggestions.
these issues don’t always throw codes until theyre really malfunctioning and sometimes some you’ll need a more sophisticated tool to get more data on what’s going on with your car.
for example at the beginning of my cps issues my car shutoff maybe once in a month and it never gave me a code until it started happening more frequently. Just be on the safe side and be ready with having one on hand just in case. The job isn’t very difficult for m113 NA motors but it is quite a bit of work for our m112k engines. If you do it yourself you’ll save a ton of money and know that you did a great job which is something I recommend.
Last edited by Oshkoshbigjosh; Jun 14, 2020 at 02:36 PM.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 13
Likes: 1
From: Australia Vic
C32 AMG, CLA45
hey man thanks for getting back to us with your potential issue/fix. It’s important to follow up for other owners to see a possible solution when dealing with scary issues like this one. I know many people commented the crankshaft sensor (I did too) and it’s still a safe bet that it would be on it’s way out in the future if it hasn’t been changed in a long time. It’s very much a wear item on our cars so if you your car shuts down again in the future rule out the battery and go after other things that could shut your off like the cps, alternator, fuel system, etc. because new batteries are highly unlikely to fail unless they’ve been sitting for a very long time.
these issues don’t always throw codes until theyre really malfunctioning and sometimes some you’ll need a more sophisticated tool to get more data on what’s going on with your car.
for example at the beginning of my cps issues my car shutoff maybe once in a month and it never gave me a code until it started happening more frequently. Just be on the safe side and be ready with having one on hand just in case. Fortunately the job isn’t very difficult for m113 NA motors but it is quite a bit of work for our m112k engines. If you do it yourself you’ll save a ton of money and know that you did a great job which is something I recommend you do yourself.
these issues don’t always throw codes until theyre really malfunctioning and sometimes some you’ll need a more sophisticated tool to get more data on what’s going on with your car.
for example at the beginning of my cps issues my car shutoff maybe once in a month and it never gave me a code until it started happening more frequently. Just be on the safe side and be ready with having one on hand just in case. Fortunately the job isn’t very difficult for m113 NA motors but it is quite a bit of work for our m112k engines. If you do it yourself you’ll save a ton of money and know that you did a great job which is something I recommend you do yourself.
