Changing C43 sparkplugs
03-26-2006, 02:24 PM
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1999 C43
Changing C43 sparkplugs
I am ready for this project, and i was wondering if anyone of you guys did it by yourself. I will take pictures as I am doing it gradually, and post it @ "Stock C43 owners DIY thread"
I believe you need some special pliers to get them out. I wrote them down somewhere and lost it. Any directions and comments are sincerely appreciated.
Thank you
I believe you need some special pliers to get them out. I wrote them down somewhere and lost it. Any directions and comments are sincerely appreciated.
Thank you
03-26-2006, 02:52 PM
#2
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Originally Posted by Vardar
I am ready for this project, and i was wondering if anyone of you guys did it by yourself. I will take pictures as I am doing it gradually, and post it @ "Stock C43 owners DIY thread"
I believe you need some special pliers to get them out. I wrote them down somewhere and lost it. Any directions and comments are sincerely appreciated.
Thank you
I believe you need some special pliers to get them out. I wrote them down somewhere and lost it. Any directions and comments are sincerely appreciated.
Thank you
03-27-2006, 09:17 AM
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1999 C43
Have you done it? Can you please give me more details? or anyone done it? Help please...
Thank you
Thank you
Originally Posted by coolcarlskiC43
It's a ***** in a half job to do.Take out the water bottle n the drivers side for easier access to the rear plugs.
03-27-2006, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Vardar
Have you done it? Can you please give me more details? or anyone done it? Help please...
Thank you
Thank you
03-27-2006, 09:57 AM
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1999 C43
He must be out ot town or something for a while cause he did not return my calls or msgs. for awhile. He called me about 2 weeks ago or longer, he wanted to meet to reset my SRS light (or try to attempt), but I was not able to..
I thought someone else might have done it. I have small but heavy hands, I do not wanna break any engine parts...
I will be sure to take nice pictures while I am doing it
I thought someone else might have done it. I have small but heavy hands, I do not wanna break any engine parts...
I will be sure to take nice pictures while I am doing it
Originally Posted by C43AMG
Staplegun has done it - 2 hr. job - ask him.
Last edited by Vardar; 03-27-2006 at 10:07 AM.
03-27-2006, 10:26 AM
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Not sure how to explain....it's dis-assemble re-assemble type of job. Remember you have 16 plugs which I'm sure your aware if you've purchased plugs yet. Also, you'll notice coil packs along each cylnder bank. Not sure if saabs have this but there is one for every two plugs. The wrench you can buy just makes it easier. You don't really need the tool it will just help at bit. If the tool is less than $20 buy it which I'm sure it isn't. I would say that once you remove the engine cover and airbox you'll figure it out just by looking. Just take your time and don't break stuff.
Also, some don't know this but put your hood up to the 90 degree position for better access.
Also, some don't know this but put your hood up to the 90 degree position for better access.
03-27-2006, 10:34 AM
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1999 C43
Wow! Thats a great start.. I already have the 16 plugs, I have a common sense, I just need some lead. It sucks that the guy who did it lives few miles away from you, and won't answer the phone. I hope Staplegun is ok...... (no ilnesses, or accidents or deaths in family)
Where do I get extented pliers? Any auto part store? Staplegun showed me what they looked like, but I don't remember the exact name..
(what is a coil pack?)
Don't get me wrong, i changed plenty of sparkplugs, I just don't have the mechanic vocabulary, and also never had a delicate car like this.
Thank you
Where do I get extented pliers? Any auto part store? Staplegun showed me what they looked like, but I don't remember the exact name..
(what is a coil pack?)
Don't get me wrong, i changed plenty of sparkplugs, I just don't have the mechanic vocabulary, and also never had a delicate car like this.
Thank you
Originally Posted by NitrogenBalance
Not sure how to explain....it's dis-assemble re-assemble type of job. Remember you have 16 plugs which I'm sure your aware if you've purchased plugs yet. Also, you'll notice coil packs along each cylnder bank. Not sure if saabs have this but there is one for every two plugs. The wrench you can buy just makes it easier. You don't really need the tool it will just help at bit. If the tool is less than $20 buy it which I'm sure it isn't. I would say that once you remove the engine cover and airbox you'll figure it out just by looking. Just take your time and don't break stuff.
Also, some don't know this but put your hood up to the 90 degree position for better access.
Also, some don't know this but put your hood up to the 90 degree position for better access.
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03-27-2006, 10:41 AM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Spark Plug Write-up
Tools/items you'll need BEFORE you start:
- Sixteen (16) Denso Spark plugs IK16, or Bosch Equivalent Platinum +4
- 3/8" ratchet w/socket release button
- 5/8" spark plug socket (3/8" size) w/insert (Sears and Home Depot has it)
- Extended reach pliers from Harbor Freight --> LINK
- Asst. Metric allen head & Torx wrench set for removal of coil packs
- Locking extension set 3/8" (told you about these Home Depot item #65502)
- 3/8" universal joint
- Permatex anti-seize compound
- Heavy blankets to protect the fenders
- Allow for approx. two hours of work with clean up
NOTE: ENSURE THE ENGINE IS COLD - NEVER REMOVE PLUGS ON A HOT/WARM ALUMINUM HEAD ENGINE
(1) Open hood all the way up - unlatch and carefully move to the furthermost position. Carefully remove the air cleaner housing and snorkels a.k.a. elephant snouts and place blankets on the fender you are working on.
(2) Blow off the area you'll be working on with an air compressor
(3) You may wish to remove the battery ground terminal
(4) Carefully remove the spark plug High-tension lead, I started at the closest plug to the radiator, on the pax side. Pull from the metal connector with the pliers NOT from the cable! You may wish to remove this cable from the coil pack - I removed the entire cable pack to clean up underneath.
(5) Blow out the hole where the spark plug resides so the trash that is in there now does not blow into your combustion chamber. Employ your 3/8" long extension and ratchet to remove the plug - inspect once removed.
(6) You can double check the gap at this time. Add a "dab" of anti-seize on the threads and place into the 5/8" socket w/extension and NO ratchet. At this point in time, using only your hand insert into the cylinder head and tighten by hand only!!! Once started and snug, I tightened up with the wrench - I only tightened maybe a 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I did not use a torque wrench, however it could not be more than 20 ft-lbs tops! Fasten the high-tension lead now, or you can wait until done with all plugs on that side.
(7) Proceed in similar fashion for the remaining seven on the pax side.
(8) For the driver's side you'll be okay for the first two. After that you'll need to remove the windshield washer bottle. I believe that is only retained by one 10mm retaining plastic bolt and you slide up and put aside. If the washer heater lines are too tight, you can disconnect those too.
(9) For the remaining - Blow out, remove, replace plug, anti-seize on threads, hand-tighten, torque down and fasten the high-tension lead.
(10) Replace the air cleaner housing.
Handy Notes...
For the plugs closest to the firewall you just need the shortest extension - you'll see why the locking extensions pay for themselves on these.
Ensure that the leads are properly and fully seated unto the spark plug.
I added a little dab of dielectric inside the tension housing to thwart corrosion.
Note the locking buttons on the extensions below - GET THESE!!! It'll make your job a whole lot easier, they're $20 at Home Depot (Item # 65502)
- Sixteen (16) Denso Spark plugs IK16, or Bosch Equivalent Platinum +4
- 3/8" ratchet w/socket release button
- 5/8" spark plug socket (3/8" size) w/insert (Sears and Home Depot has it)
- Extended reach pliers from Harbor Freight --> LINK
- Asst. Metric allen head & Torx wrench set for removal of coil packs
- Locking extension set 3/8" (told you about these Home Depot item #65502)
- 3/8" universal joint
- Permatex anti-seize compound
- Heavy blankets to protect the fenders
- Allow for approx. two hours of work with clean up
NOTE: ENSURE THE ENGINE IS COLD - NEVER REMOVE PLUGS ON A HOT/WARM ALUMINUM HEAD ENGINE
(1) Open hood all the way up - unlatch and carefully move to the furthermost position. Carefully remove the air cleaner housing and snorkels a.k.a. elephant snouts and place blankets on the fender you are working on.
(2) Blow off the area you'll be working on with an air compressor
(3) You may wish to remove the battery ground terminal
(4) Carefully remove the spark plug High-tension lead, I started at the closest plug to the radiator, on the pax side. Pull from the metal connector with the pliers NOT from the cable! You may wish to remove this cable from the coil pack - I removed the entire cable pack to clean up underneath.
(5) Blow out the hole where the spark plug resides so the trash that is in there now does not blow into your combustion chamber. Employ your 3/8" long extension and ratchet to remove the plug - inspect once removed.
(6) You can double check the gap at this time. Add a "dab" of anti-seize on the threads and place into the 5/8" socket w/extension and NO ratchet. At this point in time, using only your hand insert into the cylinder head and tighten by hand only!!! Once started and snug, I tightened up with the wrench - I only tightened maybe a 1/2 to 3/4 turn. I did not use a torque wrench, however it could not be more than 20 ft-lbs tops! Fasten the high-tension lead now, or you can wait until done with all plugs on that side.
(7) Proceed in similar fashion for the remaining seven on the pax side.
(8) For the driver's side you'll be okay for the first two. After that you'll need to remove the windshield washer bottle. I believe that is only retained by one 10mm retaining plastic bolt and you slide up and put aside. If the washer heater lines are too tight, you can disconnect those too.
(9) For the remaining - Blow out, remove, replace plug, anti-seize on threads, hand-tighten, torque down and fasten the high-tension lead.
(10) Replace the air cleaner housing.
Handy Notes...
For the plugs closest to the firewall you just need the shortest extension - you'll see why the locking extensions pay for themselves on these.
Ensure that the leads are properly and fully seated unto the spark plug.
I added a little dab of dielectric inside the tension housing to thwart corrosion.
Note the locking buttons on the extensions below - GET THESE!!! It'll make your job a whole lot easier, they're $20 at Home Depot (Item # 65502)
Last edited by StapleGun; 03-27-2006 at 01:16 PM.
03-27-2006, 10:50 AM
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1999 C43
I just PMed you
Originally Posted by StapleGun
Sorry I have not gotten back with you Buddy - I am out of town and my cell does not show me messages here. I'll be out for another four weeks. I do however have internet! Anyways, here's a list for you...
Tools you'll need BEFORE you start:
- Sixteen (16) Spark plugs IK16, or Bosch Equivalent Platinum +4
- 3/8" ratchet
- 5/8" spark plug socket (3/8" size) w/insert (Sears and Home Depot has it)
- Extended reach pliers from Harbor Freight --> LINK
- Asst. Metric allen head & Torx wrench set for removal of coil packs
- Locking extension set 3/8" (told you about these Home Depot item #65502)
- 3/8" universal joint
- Permatex anti-seize compound
- Heavy blankets to protect the fenders
- Allow for approx. two hours of work with clean up
NOTE: ENSURE THE ENGINE IS COLD - NEVER REMOVE PLUGS ON A HOT/WARM ALUMINUM HEAD ENGINE
(1) Carefully remove the air cleaner housing and snorkels a.k.a. elephant snouts and place blankets on the fender you are working on.
(2) Blow off the area you'll be working with an air compressor
(3) You may wish to remove the battery ground terminal
(4) Carefully remove the spark plug High-tension lead, I started at the closest plug to the radiator, on the pax side. Pull from the metal connector with the pliers NOT from the cable! You may wish to remove this cable from the coil pack - I removed the entire cable pack to clean up underneath.
(5) Blow out the hole where the spark plug resides so the trash that is in there now does not blow into your combustion chamber. Employ your 3/8" long extension and ratchet to remove the plug - inspect once removed.
(6) You can double check the gap at this time. Add a "dab" of anti-seize on the threads and place into the socket. At this point in time, with your hand insert into the head and start by hand only!!! Once started I tightened up with the wrench - I only tightened maybe a 1/2 turn to 3/4. I did not use a torque wrench, however it could not be more than 20 ft-lbs tops! Fasten the high-tension lead.
(7) Proceed in similar fashion for the remaining seven on the pax side.
(8) For the driver's side you'll be okay for the first two. After that you'll need to remove the windshield washer bottle. I believe that is only retained by one 10mm retaining plastic bolt and you slide up and put aside. If the washer heater lines are too tight, you can disconnect those too.
(9) For the remaining - Blow out, remove, replace plug, anti-seize on threads, hand-tighten, torque down and fasten the high-tension lead.
(10) Replace the air cleaner housing.
Handy Notes...
For the plugs closest to the firewall you just need the shortest extension - you'll see why the locking extensions pay for themselves on these.
Ensure that the leads are properly and fully seated unto the spark plug.
I added a little dab of dielectric inside the tension housing to thwart corrosion.
Note the locking buttons on the extensions below - GET THESE!!! It'll make your job a whole lot easier, they're $20 at Home Depot (Item # 65502)
Tools you'll need BEFORE you start:
- Sixteen (16) Spark plugs IK16, or Bosch Equivalent Platinum +4
- 3/8" ratchet
- 5/8" spark plug socket (3/8" size) w/insert (Sears and Home Depot has it)
- Extended reach pliers from Harbor Freight --> LINK
- Asst. Metric allen head & Torx wrench set for removal of coil packs
- Locking extension set 3/8" (told you about these Home Depot item #65502)
- 3/8" universal joint
- Permatex anti-seize compound
- Heavy blankets to protect the fenders
- Allow for approx. two hours of work with clean up
NOTE: ENSURE THE ENGINE IS COLD - NEVER REMOVE PLUGS ON A HOT/WARM ALUMINUM HEAD ENGINE
(1) Carefully remove the air cleaner housing and snorkels a.k.a. elephant snouts and place blankets on the fender you are working on.
(2) Blow off the area you'll be working with an air compressor
(3) You may wish to remove the battery ground terminal
(4) Carefully remove the spark plug High-tension lead, I started at the closest plug to the radiator, on the pax side. Pull from the metal connector with the pliers NOT from the cable! You may wish to remove this cable from the coil pack - I removed the entire cable pack to clean up underneath.
(5) Blow out the hole where the spark plug resides so the trash that is in there now does not blow into your combustion chamber. Employ your 3/8" long extension and ratchet to remove the plug - inspect once removed.
(6) You can double check the gap at this time. Add a "dab" of anti-seize on the threads and place into the socket. At this point in time, with your hand insert into the head and start by hand only!!! Once started I tightened up with the wrench - I only tightened maybe a 1/2 turn to 3/4. I did not use a torque wrench, however it could not be more than 20 ft-lbs tops! Fasten the high-tension lead.
(7) Proceed in similar fashion for the remaining seven on the pax side.
(8) For the driver's side you'll be okay for the first two. After that you'll need to remove the windshield washer bottle. I believe that is only retained by one 10mm retaining plastic bolt and you slide up and put aside. If the washer heater lines are too tight, you can disconnect those too.
(9) For the remaining - Blow out, remove, replace plug, anti-seize on threads, hand-tighten, torque down and fasten the high-tension lead.
(10) Replace the air cleaner housing.
Handy Notes...
For the plugs closest to the firewall you just need the shortest extension - you'll see why the locking extensions pay for themselves on these.
Ensure that the leads are properly and fully seated unto the spark plug.
I added a little dab of dielectric inside the tension housing to thwart corrosion.
Note the locking buttons on the extensions below - GET THESE!!! It'll make your job a whole lot easier, they're $20 at Home Depot (Item # 65502)
03-27-2006, 04:39 PM
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99 C43
If I can recommend to do the wires at the same time-
These cars are all a few years old now, and I figured as long as I was in there doing an easy but tedious (4 hr) job I might as well get the wires replaced at the same time. I used Magnecor 8.5’s I think, about $180 online somewhere.
The car had about 65k miles on it at the time, and I thought it was running very well. Once I fired it up after the plug job she sounded better and pulled harder, I was really surprised. A very satisfying $250 job it was!
Todd
These cars are all a few years old now, and I figured as long as I was in there doing an easy but tedious (4 hr) job I might as well get the wires replaced at the same time. I used Magnecor 8.5’s I think, about $180 online somewhere.
The car had about 65k miles on it at the time, and I thought it was running very well. Once I fired it up after the plug job she sounded better and pulled harder, I was really surprised. A very satisfying $250 job it was!
Todd
03-27-2006, 06:22 PM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
That ain't a bad idea, they're $183 from www.autohausaz.com and shipping is free - I have recommended them on here many, many times.....OEM brand Karlyn/Beru P/N #1131500019
03-29-2006, 10:28 AM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Spark plug information
Plugs for the C43 are as follows, I used the Denso Iridiums on my last plug change and I'm extremely happy with them - car runs like a top!
Denso Iridiums - IK 16
Bosch Platinum - B4418
Denso Iridiums - IK 16
Bosch Platinum - B4418
04-02-2006, 09:58 AM
#13
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Originally Posted by StapleGun
Plugs for the C43 are as follows, I used the Denso Iridiums on my last plug change and I'm extremely happy with them - car runs like a top!
Denso Iridiums - IK 16
Bosch Platinum - B4418
Denso Iridiums - IK 16
Bosch Platinum - B4418
04-02-2006, 08:31 PM
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1999 C43
Is it easy to change wires? How much $?
Originally Posted by coolcarlskiC43
magnacore wires my dyno #'s went up and the car is a real beast to this day!
04-03-2006, 11:06 AM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Originally Posted by Vardar
Is it easy to change wires? How much $?
07-06-2006, 08:52 AM
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1999 C43
Hey Frank! Thank you for sparg plug instructions, it was a breeze!
I have a question: Spark plugs came out of my car are stock Bosch Platinum I believe, they looked ok.
The plugs I replace them with are "Bosch Platinum +4". Am I suppose to expect a performance gain at all? I drove it very short distance after the change, so, i did not have chance to test it performance-wise....
Thank you
I have a question: Spark plugs came out of my car are stock Bosch Platinum I believe, they looked ok.
The plugs I replace them with are "Bosch Platinum +4". Am I suppose to expect a performance gain at all? I drove it very short distance after the change, so, i did not have chance to test it performance-wise....
Thank you
07-06-2006, 10:22 AM
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I guess that depends on how your car was running before. My car was wobbly at idle and had a few codes indicating missfires. Ran like poo. So naturally I replaced the plugs and wires and the car runs perfect with no codes to date. Runs smooth.
My plugs looked as if they were well beyond their half-life. I've seen cars run with much worse though.....
My plugs looked as if they were well beyond their half-life. I've seen cars run with much worse though.....
07-06-2006, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by NitrogenBalance
I guess that depends on how your car was running before. My car was wobbly at idle and had a few codes indicating missfires. Ran like poo. So naturally I replaced the plugs and wires and the car runs perfect with no codes to date. Runs smooth.
My plugs looked as if they were well beyond their half-life. I've seen cars run with much worse though.....
My plugs looked as if they were well beyond their half-life. I've seen cars run with much worse though.....
07-06-2006, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by StapleGun
You're quite welcome...not a tough job if you have the tools.
07-06-2006, 02:10 PM
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w210 E55
Originally Posted by coolcarlskiC43
I have to agree.After putting in the new iridium plugs and magnacore wires my dyno #'s went up and the car is a real beast to this day!
Anyway, after reading this thread, I installed IK16 Denso plugs and Magnacore wires on my W210 E55. Bloody knuckles and two cut-up arms later; WHAT A FREAKIN DIFFERENCE
Traction light flickers a lot more now. 
Thanks guys!
Anthony
07-06-2006, 02:24 PM
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1999 C43
Do newer wires make a huge difference? If yes can you explain please? Because after the newer and better plugs, I believe the car is running smoother, and stronger. If the wires make that big of a difference, i'll order them in heart beat......
Thank you
Thank you
Originally Posted by coolcarlskiC43
magnacore wires my dyno #'s went up and the car is a real beast to this day!
07-06-2006, 02:36 PM
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99 C43
I couldn't comment on the effectiveness of the wires or the plugs alone, because I did them together. My point was if you are in there might as well do a complete job and be done with it instead of having to go back in to do wires later. For the $180 I think it's worth it, plug wires are subject to alot of electrical and heat related stress.
Todd
Todd
07-06-2006, 02:39 PM
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'99 AMG C43
Don't know how much dealers in the USA charge, but a UK dealer has just quoted me £320 ($590) just for changing the plugs (not the HT leads as well). This is with a 40% labour discount and a 10% parts discount, as the car is over 6 years old. Kind of pricey...
Cheers,
Plug
Cheers,
Plug
