C36 AMG, C43 AMG (W202) 1995 - 2000

brake help

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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 01:07 AM
  #1  
Tommy_s4's Avatar
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ML320, Looking for my S4
brake help

ok guys, i'm buying c43 brakes for my e320 ::c43,e55,clk55 share the same parts:: i have the calipers what eles do i need what brand do you recomend etc.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 08:58 AM
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98 Black C43 , 12’ ML 350 Blutec
Originally Posted by TommyGunn
ok guys, i'm buying c43 brakes for my e320 ::c43,e55,clk55 share the same parts:: i have the calipers what eles do i need what brand do you recomend etc.
Stainless steel brake lines and cross-drilled and slotted rotors.
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 09:33 AM
  #3  
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09 335i 03 CLK55 AMG
If you want the stock C43 rotors...get the ones that Staplegun just bought the frozen ones...those are OEM I believe. See how his post with the new rotor's pads go and take it from there.
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 05:32 PM
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I'm not sure how the C43 rotors will work with the E320 spindles. I know you have the calipers but I believe fitting the rotors may be more of an issue, unless you already know if the rotors will mate up with the spindle.

Now on to the calipers. Do you know if they will bolt up properly??

What I'm trying to say is that this is most likely not a plug and play operation, or at least it usually isn't going from both AMG/regular and also switching from two different models.

The calipers shouldn't be too hard to retro-fit. You may have to have something custom fabed....
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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 06:22 PM
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
That might be a mod that is probably more trouble than its worth - remember these are brakes now....they need to work reliably.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 01:31 AM
  #6  
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ML320, Looking for my S4
alright well, my brakes work perfectly. i guess i'm not going to buy the amg calipers. 225 including shipping for amg calipers all 4. o well.
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 09:26 AM
  #7  
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Exclamation Brakes

Good upgrades for you to consider are stainless brakes lines, they will significantly reduce your pedal travel and any sponginess. Once you do the lines you'll need to have it properly bled and I probably would have it done professionally, ABS-equipped cars have a pump that I really don't know if you can adequately bleed as a DIY project. I would invest in a couple quarts of MB, Motul or ATE brake fluid and have your ENTIRE brake system fluids replaced. Also, good brake bads, i.e. Porterfield, EBC greens, Mintex or whatever flavor you decide - just try to get a pad that won't eat your rotors within a cycle, unless you're tracking your automobile. Additionally, don't forget brake bads need to be properly bedded in! Rimier, as mentioned before in another post, is the place I got my frozen rotors, www.frozenrotors.com has them at comparable prices too. I found that Richard at Rimier was very helpful and was happy to give him my business.

BEDDING PROCEDURE BELOW (Courtesy of www.rimier.com and STOPTECH)


What is brake pad “bed-in” anyway?

Simply stated, bed-in is the process of depositing an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer, on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc.

The all-important transfer layer

The objective of the bed-in process is to deposit an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer, on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc. Note: uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.
It only takes a small amount of thickness variation in the transfer layer (we're only talking a few ten thousandths of an inch here) to initiate brake vibration. While the impact of an uneven transfer layer is almost imperceptible at first, as the pad starts riding the high and low spots, more and more variation in the thickness of the transfer layer will be naturally generated until the vibration is much more evident. With prolonged exposure, the high spots can become hot spots and can actually change the metallurgy of the rotor in those areas, creating “hard” spots in the rotor face that are virtually impossible to remove.
Bedding fundamentals

In general, bed-in consists of heating a brake system to its adherent temperature to allow the formation of a transfer layer. The brake system is then allowed to cool without coming to rest, resulting in an even transfer layer deposition around the rotor circumference. This procedure is typically repeated two or three times in order to ensure that the entire rotor face is evenly covered with brake pad material. Sounds easy, right? Well, it can be if you have the proper information.
Because the adherent temperature range for brake pads varies widely (typically 100°F-600°F for street pads and 600°F-1400°F for race pads), each bed-in needs to be application-specific. One could try to generate a one-size-fits-all procedure, but too little heat during bed-in keeps the material from transferring to the rotor face while overheating the system can generate uneven pad deposits due to the material breaking down on the rotor face.
In summary, the key to a successful bed-in is to bring the pads up to their adherent operating temperature in a controlled manner and keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to successfully accomplish the bed-in. The recommended procedures below should provide you with the information you need to select the bed-in procedure appropriate for your application.
When a system has both new rotors and pads, there are two different objectives for bedding-in a performance brake system 1) heating up the brake rotors and pads in a prescribed manner, so as to transfer pad material evenly onto the rotors and 2) maturing the pad material, so that resins which are used to bind and form it are ‘cooked' out of the pad.
The first objective is achieved by performing a series of slowdowns, so that the brake rotor and pad material are heated steadily to a temperature that promotes the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. There is one pitfall in this process, however, which must be avoided. The rotor and therefore the vehicle, should not be brought to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. This risks the non-uniform transfer of pad material onto the friction surface.
The second objective of the bedding-in process is achieved by performing another set of slowdowns, in order to mature the pad itself. This ensures that resins which are used to bind and form the pad material are ‘cooked' out of the pad, at the point where the pad meets the rotor's friction surface.
The bed-in process is not complete until both sets of stops have been performed.
Bedding-in Street Performance Pads

Caution: After installing new pads/rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brake pedal will result in little or no stopping power. This is normal. Initially, apply the brakes a few times at low speed in order to build up some friction before any high speed driving.
  1. [*]
  2. [*]
  3. [*]
  4. [*]
  5. [*]
  6. [*]
  7. [*]
Summary
In summary, the key to successfully bedding-in performance brakes is to bring the pads up to their operating temperature range, in a controlled manner, and to keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to achieve a successful bed-in. The procedures recommended above should provide a useful starting point for developing bed-in procedures appropriate to individual applications.
Reply
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 09:41 AM
  #8  
C43AMG's Avatar
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98 Black C43 , 12’ ML 350 Blutec
Originally Posted by StapleGun
Good upgrades for you to consider are stainless brakes lines, they will significantly reduce your pedal travel and any sponginess. Once you do the lines you'll need to have it properly bled and I probably would have it done professionally, ABS-equipped cars have a pump that I really don't know if you can adequately bleed as a DIY project. I would invest in a couple quarts of MB, Motul or ATE brake fluid and have your ENTIRE brake system fluids replaced. Also, good brake bads, i.e. Porterfield, EBC greens, Mintex or whatever flavor you decide - just try to get a pad that won't eat your rotors within a cycle, unless you're tracking your automobile. Additionally, don't forget brake bads need to be properly bedded in! Rimier, as mentioned before in another post, is the place I got my frozen rotors, www.frozenrotors.com has them at comparable prices too. I found that Richard at Rimier was very helpful and was happy to give him my business.

BEDDING PROCEDURE BELOW (Courtesy of www.rimier.com and STOPTECH)




What is brake pad “bed-in” anyway?

Simply stated, bed-in is the process of depositing an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer, on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc.

The all-important transfer layer

The objective of the bed-in process is to deposit an even layer of brake pad material, or transfer layer, on the rubbing surface of the rotor disc. Note: uneven pad deposits on the rotor face are the number one, and almost exclusive cause of brake judder or vibration.
It only takes a small amount of thickness variation in the transfer layer (we're only talking a few ten thousandths of an inch here) to initiate brake vibration. While the impact of an uneven transfer layer is almost imperceptible at first, as the pad starts riding the high and low spots, more and more variation in the thickness of the transfer layer will be naturally generated until the vibration is much more evident. With prolonged exposure, the high spots can become hot spots and can actually change the metallurgy of the rotor in those areas, creating “hard” spots in the rotor face that are virtually impossible to remove.
Bedding fundamentals

In general, bed-in consists of heating a brake system to its adherent temperature to allow the formation of a transfer layer. The brake system is then allowed to cool without coming to rest, resulting in an even transfer layer deposition around the rotor circumference. This procedure is typically repeated two or three times in order to ensure that the entire rotor face is evenly covered with brake pad material. Sounds easy, right? Well, it can be if you have the proper information.
Because the adherent temperature range for brake pads varies widely (typically 100°F-600°F for street pads and 600°F-1400°F for race pads), each bed-in needs to be application-specific. One could try to generate a one-size-fits-all procedure, but too little heat during bed-in keeps the material from transferring to the rotor face while overheating the system can generate uneven pad deposits due to the material breaking down on the rotor face.
In summary, the key to a successful bed-in is to bring the pads up to their adherent operating temperature in a controlled manner and keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to successfully accomplish the bed-in. The recommended procedures below should provide you with the information you need to select the bed-in procedure appropriate for your application.
When a system has both new rotors and pads, there are two different objectives for bedding-in a performance brake system 1) heating up the brake rotors and pads in a prescribed manner, so as to transfer pad material evenly onto the rotors and 2) maturing the pad material, so that resins which are used to bind and form it are ‘cooked' out of the pad.
The first objective is achieved by performing a series of slowdowns, so that the brake rotor and pad material are heated steadily to a temperature that promotes the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. There is one pitfall in this process, however, which must be avoided. The rotor and therefore the vehicle, should not be brought to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. This risks the non-uniform transfer of pad material onto the friction surface.
The second objective of the bedding-in process is achieved by performing another set of slowdowns, in order to mature the pad itself. This ensures that resins which are used to bind and form the pad material are ‘cooked' out of the pad, at the point where the pad meets the rotor's friction surface.
The bed-in process is not complete until both sets of stops have been performed.
Bedding-in Street Performance Pads

Caution: After installing new pads/rotors or a big brake kit, the first few applications of the brake pedal will result in little or no stopping power. This is normal. Initially, apply the brakes a few times at low speed in order to build up some friction before any high speed driving.
  1. [*]
  2. [*]
  3. [*]
  4. [*]
  5. [*]
  6. [*]
  7. [*]
Summary
In summary, the key to successfully bedding-in performance brakes is to bring the pads up to their operating temperature range, in a controlled manner, and to keep them there long enough to start the pad material transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving conditions require different procedures to achieve a successful bed-in. The procedures recommended above should provide a useful starting point for developing bed-in procedures appropriate to individual applications.

Great info Staplegun. Have you received the rotors / started the project ?
Reply
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Old Jan 27, 2007 | 05:54 PM
  #9  
StapleGun's Avatar
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
I'm waiting on my pads and front pad sensors so I can start up.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 08:26 PM
  #10  
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98 C43 AMG, 93 190E 2.6
nice one staplegun, always a wealth of info. looking forward to your cryo write up.thanks for the good info.

Last edited by hy-rail benz; Feb 1, 2007 at 08:28 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2007 | 10:53 PM
  #11  
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1967 Morris Cooper "S", 1983 911SC, 1997 Toyota Tacoma, 1999 HD FXSTB, 1998 C43
Write-up is posted...dunno what's up with the thumbnail pics though.

Last edited by StapleGun; Feb 2, 2007 at 11:35 AM.
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