vented hood test fit
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: North Carolina
98 Black C43 , 12’ ML 350 Blutec
As much as I'd like to give you props....I can't...too ricey.Good luck with the alignment when you attach it to the hinges.My was a biatch to fit , and be careful when you close it!
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From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
I don't know if you want to call it "ricer" if it serves a purpose.
Long before "rice" in the very early nineties ***** Mosselmann used louvered hood heat extractors on his "Silver Arrow" C124 and R129 twin turbo M104-24.
Main purpose is to keep engine compartment temps down when running, and more to extract or allow heat to escape after the engine is shut down.
I'm considering the heat extractors on my C124 TT.
This is a photoshop of a Chevy Lumina louver
Probably will end up using the Datsun 280ZX louvers as they replicate closer the Mosselmann install. They will be installed on the center raised portion of the hood.
Long before "rice" in the very early nineties ***** Mosselmann used louvered hood heat extractors on his "Silver Arrow" C124 and R129 twin turbo M104-24.
Main purpose is to keep engine compartment temps down when running, and more to extract or allow heat to escape after the engine is shut down.
I'm considering the heat extractors on my C124 TT.
This is a photoshop of a Chevy Lumina louver
Probably will end up using the Datsun 280ZX louvers as they replicate closer the Mosselmann install. They will be installed on the center raised portion of the hood.
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
I do have major heat going on...
keep in mind that it will be painted as well.
It's been on and off the car (actually mounted) about 5 times. The alignment is perfect. I know how poorly they fit without lots of work though... I actually cut out a lot of the bracing, bent the hood the way it needed to be bent etc. etc. and then added new (much stronger) bracing
keep in mind that it will be painted as well.
It's been on and off the car (actually mounted) about 5 times. The alignment is perfect. I know how poorly they fit without lots of work though... I actually cut out a lot of the bracing, bent the hood the way it needed to be bent etc. etc. and then added new (much stronger) bracing
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
for those who don't know-
it's the z34 louvers up front (slightly modified though as i made each side 3 louvers rather than 4). The back piece is the vent off of the E46 M3- basically just cut a whole and it drops in. I will be leaving it plastic colored.
it's the z34 louvers up front (slightly modified though as i made each side 3 louvers rather than 4). The back piece is the vent off of the E46 M3- basically just cut a whole and it drops in. I will be leaving it plastic colored.
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From: Portsmouth, NH
none
I do have major heat going on...
keep in mind that it will be painted as well.
It's been on and off the car (actually mounted) about 5 times. The alignment is perfect. I know how poorly they fit without lots of work though... I actually cut out a lot of the bracing, bent the hood the way it needed to be bent etc. etc. and then added new (much stronger) bracing
keep in mind that it will be painted as well.
It's been on and off the car (actually mounted) about 5 times. The alignment is perfect. I know how poorly they fit without lots of work though... I actually cut out a lot of the bracing, bent the hood the way it needed to be bent etc. etc. and then added new (much stronger) bracing
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From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
You have to be careful in locating a cowl vent.
It needs to be in a negative pressure area so as air is not pushed into the engine bay.
Too far back and you'll run into positive pressure created by the windshield...
The vent will become more like a cowl induction not heat extraction.
It needs to be in a negative pressure area so as air is not pushed into the engine bay.
Too far back and you'll run into positive pressure created by the windshield...
The vent will become more like a cowl induction not heat extraction.
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,761
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From: North Carolina
98 Black C43 , 12’ ML 350 Blutec
You have to be careful in locating a cowl vent.
It needs to be in a negative pressure area so as air is not pushed into the engine bay.
Too far back and you'll run into positive pressure created by the windshield...
The vent will become more like a cowl induction not heat extraction.
It needs to be in a negative pressure area so as air is not pushed into the engine bay.
Too far back and you'll run into positive pressure created by the windshield...
The vent will become more like a cowl induction not heat extraction.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,100
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
I'm aware of that issue- although, I totally guessed on the placement.
That rear vent is right above the major heat source (headers and whatever else) though and what my main reason for putting it there was/is was in order to give that hot air a place to vent out. I've noticed temperatures in that region sky rocket to dangerous levels after I shut the car down and the heat rises/soaks up. It actually reaches the point of getting close to damaging rubber and plastic pieces up there.
I am hoping I can get keep the supercharger a bit cooler while running and also hoping to let the supercharger and the back of the motor cool faster (although, by cool faster I mean-- not spike way up in temperature prior to cooling) upon shutdown.
do you guys think this will work?
I really think I will like the way the front two vents will look. The rear one just kind of "is what it is" and was easy etc., if i find I really don't like it I can change it (paint?) later. Maybe I should plan on painting it right away. I just really don't want to melt anything at the back of the motor.
do you guys think the hood will do what I'm looking for as it is now? at elast- is it likely to?
lastly, speaking of heat at the back of the motor... currently my outlet from the intercooler to the motor is mostly silicone hose. I plan on simplifying it and making it "solid". What would you recommend? should I use plastic, aluminum? any ideas where to get some pre-bent pieces of what you would recommend, I think it's 3 or 3.25" back there.
thanks for any input
-Drew
That rear vent is right above the major heat source (headers and whatever else) though and what my main reason for putting it there was/is was in order to give that hot air a place to vent out. I've noticed temperatures in that region sky rocket to dangerous levels after I shut the car down and the heat rises/soaks up. It actually reaches the point of getting close to damaging rubber and plastic pieces up there.
I am hoping I can get keep the supercharger a bit cooler while running and also hoping to let the supercharger and the back of the motor cool faster (although, by cool faster I mean-- not spike way up in temperature prior to cooling) upon shutdown.
do you guys think this will work?
I really think I will like the way the front two vents will look. The rear one just kind of "is what it is" and was easy etc., if i find I really don't like it I can change it (paint?) later. Maybe I should plan on painting it right away. I just really don't want to melt anything at the back of the motor.
do you guys think the hood will do what I'm looking for as it is now? at elast- is it likely to?
lastly, speaking of heat at the back of the motor... currently my outlet from the intercooler to the motor is mostly silicone hose. I plan on simplifying it and making it "solid". What would you recommend? should I use plastic, aluminum? any ideas where to get some pre-bent pieces of what you would recommend, I think it's 3 or 3.25" back there.
thanks for any input
-Drew
Thread Starter
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
ooh- also, so far as closing it. After removing the hood supports there is no issue. It will actually be really nice for shows too because it will allow me to set the hood open just far enough to show off under the hood, but without going so high it messes up the lines of the car so much.
-drew
-drew
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From: North Carolina
98 Black C43 , 12’ ML 350 Blutec
I would stick with the silicone hose to handle the heat.The only question I have is why didn't you try to model the rear vent after the W211 vent on the E55's?
Thread Starter
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From: Rochester, MN
sounds like airplane
if i stick with silicone... any ideas how to add an air temperature probe directly to it without leaks? some kind of a grommet or 2-piece system with a flange that screws/clamps onto it?
I didn't go with any of the newer benz style vents because I thought their curved nature wouldn't be exactly appropriate with the look of the C43. I also think they are all a bit on the large size.
I didn't go with any of the newer benz style vents because I thought their curved nature wouldn't be exactly appropriate with the look of the C43. I also think they are all a bit on the large size.
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Joined: May 2005
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From: REHOBOTH BEACH DE
88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
if i stick with silicone... any ideas how to add an air temperature probe directly to it without leaks? some kind of a grommet or 2-piece system with a flange that screws/clamps onto it?
I didn't go with any of the newer benz style vents because I thought their curved nature wouldn't be exactly appropriate with the look of the C43. I also think they are all a bit on the large size.
I didn't go with any of the newer benz style vents because I thought their curved nature wouldn't be exactly appropriate with the look of the C43. I also think they are all a bit on the large size.
Make a hole slightly smaller then the probe so it's a force fit.
Seal around with a high temp silicone RTV adhesive sealant.
This is the method I used on my C6 LS2 Corvette when I replaced the corrugated hose with smooth silicone from the MAF to the throttle body.
