money-one

Before I went with the factory LSD conversion, the Bigger rear end was what i wanted. After I hooked up with Blackbenzz and got a good look at his car top, bottom and under carriage the swap is now rolling back in my head. It will make its way into my car with a quaife. The axles may require a different hub pressed into the spindle(w220?) for the beefed up ones to be used.

We should organize some kind of car meet so we could all put name's to face's

FLYNAVY

I love it! Beautiful work, that motor looks great in there. If you have any more pics please post them up!

speedybenz

money-one

If you are going the bigger axle route, have you thought about having the hubs drilled and tapped to take a 114.3mm x 5 bolt pattern. That way you will have access to a much wider selection of wheels.

I know I have been thinking of having this done for awhile now.

I have also made my MAF's output voltage adjustable so that I stop throwing MAF codes to the ECU.

With the simple variable resistor curcuit I can set the voltage to make the car run much better and put the voltage back within the ECU parameters.

Jeff

money-one

Could you explain a little bit more on this resistor setup. I managed to shut the two codes down by using a 30 ohm resistor for each code. What diodes or resistors are you using. I would like to try that first before i wire in my piggy system.

Thanks
Jake

money-one

Here is what she looked like when I got her and some misc. pics. of the inside when sound deadening it.

speedybenz

To make the MAF adjuster I used an old wiring piece that pluged into the MAF sensor and then cut apart an old sensor to get the female side. The resistor is a 10kohm, 10-turn pot from Radioshack. You wire the the 5 volt reference voltage to one side of the pot and wire the other side to the signal output to the ECU. The center prong of the resistor then becomes varible from 0 to 5 volts. So you wire the middle resistor prong to go to the ECU as the MAF sensor value. With the variable resistor you then start up the car and with a scanner read the voltage of the MAF output and set it to the desired voltage.

I will tell you I am an electrical idiot. So I got all of this from a website called www.autospeed.com. They have lots of DIY modding articles and they ran a 12 part article on modding your engine systems.

It is a great site.

Jeff

money-one

Thanks

speedybenz

I made a mistake in the description of how to wire up the MAF variable resistor to the the output for the ECU. I have coorected the description that I posted eariler. Below is a link to the exact article I mentioned. Please look at the 10th diagram shown on the page shown below.

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_110897/article.html

Jeff

money-one

Thanks once again I tried the setup and was getting a 1.04 volt and would go away when the sensor ground was hooked up.

Today is the official first day home with no problems. It does pull but not like any normal kompressor Seems a bit slower deffinetly need to be tuned but on the flip side there is No Check Engine light still.

speedybenz

In my first reply I said to hook up the 3 prong variable pot to ground on one side, but that was wrong. The 3 prongs should be hooked up so that the output signal from the MAF sensor goes to one end of the pot and the 5 volt reference wire to the other side of the pot. The middle wire then coming out of the pot will be the new singal to the ECU. By turning the variable resistor or pot one way or the other you can bring your MAF sensor output into the correct range.

Again the pot does not get hooked up to ground.

Jeff

money-one

I bought another potentiometer today because my previous purchase was a 25 ohm. This one was a 10k cermet 15 turn pot. and worked fairly well in modulating the 5 volt Ref. Haven't yet installed it on my car. I was talking with one of my friends and we were talking about how the vehicle would behave with a fixed voltage, when the car needs a specific volt at idle and warm-up and an entirely diff. one at wide open throttle. I'm guessing with this setup it wil be provided with an oscillating ECU sig. Trying tommorrow after work.

Thank you
Jake

speedybenz

The voltage varies with the engine load as it would normally. The only difference is at idle, you can add or take away voltage depending on the set-up. Please read the linked Autospeed article so you get the wiring correct. It will be different if you are adding voltage or trying to take voltage away and tricking the ECU into thinking you are flowing less air.

On my C55, since I have machined out the MAF body, the lower elbow and tapered the Electronic Throttle Body all to flow more air. But with the larger diameter the MAF sensor reads low on the airflow, around 3.0 grams per sec, instead of around 4.50 gm per sec of airflow. So by turning up the voltage a little I have tricked the ECU into thinking the airflow is just right, so now the ECU doesn't set off any codes.

Jeff

Fabio D

Jake, impressive work

Friend, are you taking in account the firing order in the kompressor engine are very different than the 5.5 N/a? i'm very dissapointing about the fire order by the SC engine, but works good.. you made changes in your engine management to accept the different firing order? i think the camshafts are designed to the stock fire order.

Thanks in advance

Fabio Daniel

money-one

The firing order in the SC 5.5 is identical to the 5.5 N/A. The camshaft profiles are different along with the compression ratio. I have done nothing to the engine management except regulate the MAF signal

ECTurboGSX

So what is the latest and greatest? You were able to drive her home, correct? When do you plan to put it on the dyno and work on the tune?

speedybenz

Money-one,

Do you have any more pics of the floor area. I find it interesting in the areas the creases are made and the way the frame area is raised. How long did it take to remove all the seats and flooring. Will the sound deading material make a big change to the noise coming into the cabin while driving. And lastly what does it weigh?

I have thought about taking some structural, expanding foam and filling in the space between the floor and the lower floor panels. If I understand it right there is another floor or pan set of panels below the floor section shown in your photos, correct or am I wrong?

Thanks, Jeff

Fabio D

Are you 100% sure the firing order in the kompressor are the same at the N/A?

I understand the 99 E55 has 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2 (same at the c43) & the E55 komp has 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 ( Why?? very dessordered firing, dissapointing) but in the WIS reference manual said that...

Here is a link & the same situation:

E55 amg Kompressor 2004+

http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-fo-0404.htm

E55 amg N/A 1999

http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-fo-4091.htm

C43 amg N/A 1999

http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-fo-4080.htm

The kompressor engine has the different firing order than the N/A engines i think

Please correct me if i'm wrong

Thanks a lot bro, very congrats by your kind work.

Fabio Daniel

money-one

I have been driving my car since Wednesday night. What had happen was I developed a Metal whinning noise after my car got up to operating temps. It would disappear under a load or hard acceleration. Very embarrasing in traffic. When listening for it, It sounded like it was coming from the bell housing
Wednesday after work I pulled the trans out and discovered that the torque converter nose was touching the crank shaft recessed hole (used to gude the torque) When temp got up the torque con. would slightly expand and touch the Crankshaft hole and rub creating my noise. My 55k T.C. was at the house so I polished down the nose of the C43 T.C. and reinstalled everything and drove home. No noise!............Lesson is the 55k T.C. is different from the 55n/a T.C. slightly.
Today when driving to work under a HARD pull from 60ish to about 115ish My CEl came on and I felt a misfire. Pulled in to shop and pulled codes #4 cylinder. Ordered a full set of plugs (only had 11 plugs in stock) that will be there tomorrow. Tune is up in the air.. Thinking heavily about LET tune.

money-one

I don't have any pics of when she had no deadening on. Correct. The creases your seeing are sections that were spot welded in by the factory to add structural integrity. Foam is a great idea because I just went over it. The entire car is done from the firewall to the trunk lid. In the cabin I used about 21lbs. trunk about another 5lbs ish. Doors??? Wasn't thinking about speed when I did this. Taking all the interior out shouldn't be any more than an hour. Noise did go down but resonation went down even further. What I was really after.

Jake

money-one

Ill get back to you on that one.

anisamy1

It is a great work dude. You have done a fantastic work.

money-one

It looks as though you might have stumbled on a misprint. All of the 113 engines should have the exact same firing order.
Found on the passenger side valve cover above cylinder 1. This shouldnt discourage you from any engine swaps. The '98 has the different firing order but ran a 2001 E55 swap and now a 2003 kompressor swap.

Fabio D

Wow.. that's preety crazy!your car is 98! if you have the stock ME you will get the stock firing order, how works in one engine with different firing! it's complicated, but works fine in your car

Thanks a lot friend!

Fabio Daniel

mbc36amg

Hi, i've been reading about this "engine-changing-W202"........

How's the supercharged engine holding up?
Have you found any solution about the ECU-software/charger-actuation?

I'm also a Mercedes mechanic (Diagnostic Tech), and i'm very interested in this project.


Just finished putting in an 5,5 l NA engine in my S202 2000.
I'm pretty amazed over the difference in power-output.
It feels soo much quicker, so happy.

btw..
I checked WIS about the firing order mentioned earlier, all M113 have the same order, it's wrong facts on "autorepair.about.com".
If you look at a 1999 C43 and compare it with an 2000 C43, they have different firing order, but as we all know it's the same engine in all C43:s.

Fabio D

Is the same engines i know that.. but in my E55 210 the valve cover sayd:

1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2

& my father's car E55 211 sayd same as money-one:

1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 (Very dissapointing about that, i can't imagine the 2 final pistons firing secuantially..)

Maybe are a real difference in the firing order between the 2 engines?? or MB lie about that.. why mercedes waste money putting a different firing order numbers in the valve covers if they are the same caps/firing order?

Fabio Daniel