Sunroof switch C43 '99
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 61
Likes: 1
From: Nashville, TN
2008 ML320cdi, 2008 SL600Renntech, 2009 C63
Sunroof switch C43 '99
Do I have to replace the entire assembly or can I just buy the switch.
Anybody have a spare switch or assembly?
Anybody have a spare switch or assembly?
Member
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 119
Likes: 0
From: Dallas
'99 C43
Is the problem with the switch that the functions work "backwards"? In other words, does the venting switch motion cause the sunroof to slide for a short distance, etc?
If that's the problem, then it's easily reset by holding the switch in the closed direction for 10 seconds. My sunroof has the error occasionally, and the reset works great.
Hope that's the issue for yours.
If that's the problem, then it's easily reset by holding the switch in the closed direction for 10 seconds. My sunroof has the error occasionally, and the reset works great.
Hope that's the issue for yours.
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Madison, WI, USA
1998 C43 White, 1998 C43 Black, 1983 300TD Red
SparksterC43 - it might help to understand a bit about CAN-Bus.
The accessory switches in older MBs directly controlled current flow to the motors. In the newer cars, by contrast, the accessory switches work more like a computer keyboard, sending keypress messages to a central controller. That controller interprets those messages, filters out any garbage signals, and sends the appropriate commands across a local area (CAN-Bus) network to the modules that actually run the motors. There is NO physical relationship between the switches and the motors.
This can result in bizarre and paradoxical behavior if the controller loses electrical contact with a switch, or if there is a mismatch between the physical and the logical positions of either a switch or the motor it controls (such as commonly happens if the battery is disconnected). And yes, the easy fix is to hold the relevant switch in position for the count of 10 in the appropriate direction. Works for window switches too, e.g. if you've lost one-touch up and down.
The accessory switches in older MBs directly controlled current flow to the motors. In the newer cars, by contrast, the accessory switches work more like a computer keyboard, sending keypress messages to a central controller. That controller interprets those messages, filters out any garbage signals, and sends the appropriate commands across a local area (CAN-Bus) network to the modules that actually run the motors. There is NO physical relationship between the switches and the motors.
This can result in bizarre and paradoxical behavior if the controller loses electrical contact with a switch, or if there is a mismatch between the physical and the logical positions of either a switch or the motor it controls (such as commonly happens if the battery is disconnected). And yes, the easy fix is to hold the relevant switch in position for the count of 10 in the appropriate direction. Works for window switches too, e.g. if you've lost one-touch up and down.
Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 192
Likes: 0
1999 C43 AMG
SparksterC43 - it might help to understand a bit about CAN-Bus.
The accessory switches in older MBs directly controlled current flow to the motors. In the newer cars, by contrast, the accessory switches work more like a computer keyboard, sending keypress messages to a central controller. That controller interprets those messages, filters out any garbage signals, and sends the appropriate commands across a local area (CAN-Bus) network to the modules that actually run the motors. There is NO physical relationship between the switches and the motors.
This can result in bizarre and paradoxical behavior if the controller loses electrical contact with a switch, or if there is a mismatch between the physical and the logical positions of either a switch or the motor it controls (such as commonly happens if the battery is disconnected). And yes, the easy fix is to hold the relevant switch in position for the count of 10 in the appropriate direction. Works for window switches too, e.g. if you've lost one-touch up and down.
The accessory switches in older MBs directly controlled current flow to the motors. In the newer cars, by contrast, the accessory switches work more like a computer keyboard, sending keypress messages to a central controller. That controller interprets those messages, filters out any garbage signals, and sends the appropriate commands across a local area (CAN-Bus) network to the modules that actually run the motors. There is NO physical relationship between the switches and the motors.
This can result in bizarre and paradoxical behavior if the controller loses electrical contact with a switch, or if there is a mismatch between the physical and the logical positions of either a switch or the motor it controls (such as commonly happens if the battery is disconnected). And yes, the easy fix is to hold the relevant switch in position for the count of 10 in the appropriate direction. Works for window switches too, e.g. if you've lost one-touch up and down.
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Joined: Mar 2010
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From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Is the problem with the switch that the functions work "backwards"? In other words, does the venting switch motion cause the sunroof to slide for a short distance, etc?
If that's the problem, then it's easily reset by holding the switch in the closed direction for 10 seconds. My sunroof has the error occasionally, and the reset works great.
Hope that's the issue for yours.
If that's the problem, then it's easily reset by holding the switch in the closed direction for 10 seconds. My sunroof has the error occasionally, and the reset works great.
Hope that's the issue for yours.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,889
Likes: 323
From: Land of mountains, cheese, chocolate and watches
12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
SparksterC43 - it might help to understand a bit about CAN-Bus.
The accessory switches in older MBs directly controlled current flow to the motors. In the newer cars, by contrast, the accessory switches work more like a computer keyboard, sending keypress messages to a central controller. That controller interprets those messages, filters out any garbage signals, and sends the appropriate commands across a local area (CAN-Bus) network to the modules that actually run the motors. There is NO physical relationship between the switches and the motors.
This can result in bizarre and paradoxical behavior if the controller loses electrical contact with a switch, or if there is a mismatch between the physical and the logical positions of either a switch or the motor it controls (such as commonly happens if the battery is disconnected). And yes, the easy fix is to hold the relevant switch in position for the count of 10 in the appropriate direction. Works for window switches too, e.g. if you've lost one-touch up and down.
The accessory switches in older MBs directly controlled current flow to the motors. In the newer cars, by contrast, the accessory switches work more like a computer keyboard, sending keypress messages to a central controller. That controller interprets those messages, filters out any garbage signals, and sends the appropriate commands across a local area (CAN-Bus) network to the modules that actually run the motors. There is NO physical relationship between the switches and the motors.
This can result in bizarre and paradoxical behavior if the controller loses electrical contact with a switch, or if there is a mismatch between the physical and the logical positions of either a switch or the motor it controls (such as commonly happens if the battery is disconnected). And yes, the easy fix is to hold the relevant switch in position for the count of 10 in the appropriate direction. Works for window switches too, e.g. if you've lost one-touch up and down.
