I think all M113s from 99-2002 uses a same ECU started with 023xx until 029xx, but end of 2002-2005 uses a different ECU started with 113xx,, but i don’t
know why MB provides "2" Maf #s: "113 094 00 48 & 01 48", anyone got ideas whats the different between them......??

ZAYED,,

 

I think Project55 was refering to the MAF's all being the same. There is nothing wrong with this guys ECU. BTW, some early 113 engines used the ME2.0 and then went to the ME2.8

 

Agreed.....

ZAYED,,

 

Thanks for the comments, as I've been getting quite depressed that the car is not yet running!!! Fingers crossed it will be sorted out soon.

Can just the MAF lead to all these issues? The E55's MAF didn't run right, and gave a CEL. I actually don't think I tried the aftermarket one I have on had - maybe I'll as the techs to do that. But when I did use the aftermarket MAF a couple winters ago, the car ran quite oddly. It would be fine for a while, and then lead to much bucking and shaking and CEL. Going back to the original C43 ECU and those problems disappeared. I'll ask the shop to try the aftermarket one and see what's what. I'll also have my parts guy price out a brand new MAF too.

The 55 injectors were all cleaned. The guy who did the cleaning had remarked that the pattern was something different to anything he'd previously encountered, but I think he would have told me if they were inconsistently so. Maybe I'll check into that too. I suppose I could try going back to the C43's original injectors too, but that will need some more parts from out of town - namely the lower plastic washer that holds the o-ring in place.

Also, pretty sure the intake manifold was reassembled fine, though I guess it's worth looking at again. I used high temp RTV silicone sealant to reassemble the entire manifold, I can't imagine that product wouldn't be enough to hold everything together. I used the same stuff on oil pans on both the C43 and my S2000 and no issues at all. I'm hoping there are no problems with the variable length manifold bits and pieces inside. As I had posted a few pages back when I reassembled it, I had to use some silicone hose to connect up the actuator to the nipple on the reservoir. However, the diameter of hose chosen was such that it would be airtight on the manifold. That part did not show up at all on the EPC, the EPC just shows a single part number for the manifold, and doesn't break it down. That said, I suppose a smoke test or spraying the manifold with brake cleaner to check for leaks is another option, but I just don't see it. I'd like to think I'm careful enough to not have an issue like a huge-*** vacuum leak, but I suppose I'm not infallible.

I suppose also that a catch can would be nice, but I need to get the thing running right first, then take it from there. Back in my Saab days, I used a junkyard salvaged AC evap unit from some GM product and had my engine builder weld up mounting tabs and the other accoutrements to make a nice little catch can. Had a little BMC filter on top and a sight gauge on the side. Quite nice. Stuff to think about later.

I reused the 55's variable intake length actuator, pressure sensor and the secondary air injection and EGR bits. They all looked fine. At any rate, the SAI and EGR system, I would think, would not lead to such major running issues? I ran my old Volvo V70 (and my uncle who now drives it) with the CEL on for SAI without any running issues. We just clear the code once in a while.

Once I get the 55 running, I'm open to flogging the 43 motor. The only other option is to keep it and hope some CLK430 or ML430 or whatever shows up for sale with a blown motor and I can do a swap in. Thing is, you never see those cars with blown motors....

Very annoying, as I had said, to not have the car running, as my S2000 is also down at the moment with some clutch issues, and looks like I'll have to drop the trans on that to figure it out - but will re-assemble with a new, aftermarket clutch - but that's for another thread entirely...

 

Well, here's another question - if I'm gonna get a new MAF, get one spec'd for the 43? or an '02 E55?

 

I didn't think they were different as they have the same size diamter housing. I had a bad MAF also and used the one from my V6 for a couple of days until the new one arrived. It worked fine but I knew it wasn't the right one for the car as it was calibrated for a small housing and throttle body. Since you are having problems on just the left bank, I didn't think it was the MAF, but it is a possibility to rule out. It would be a good idea to try the C43 injectors just to rule out the injectors.

 

Vince,
Do your tech guys have the Star diagnosis? If not, I recommend that would be the first place to look at and check all the codes. That system should detect even a wink of the eye

Also, I read somewhere here that splitting the intake would be a major PITTA to get air tight again. Perhaps that is one reason why the disassembly is not mentioned in the WIS

 

As i know all M112 & M113 sharing a same insert sensor, the different with the Hausing only, the Maf insert got 112 part #.......

ZAYED,,

 

I thought to mention that he should check the host that hose from the mani to the brake booster some times those crack when they are old or like was mentioned the intake mani is leaking somewhere.

 

Yeah of course the shop I took it to has Star. They are ex dealer personnel who got pissed off with the new ownership of the dealer, so they left and set up their own place. The Star was used to reset the ECU, so it was as if it was new.

I was careful with the brake booster line, looks okay. I did manage to break the 90* elbow on the plastic vacuum line but I just replaced it with a section of silicone vac hose.

Today's still a day off for us so I hope there are some more answers tomorrow.

 

Yep that was a typo on my part went back and corrected it thanks.

If you have a spare intake mani handy I would try installing that too. Im not curious at all about dismantling the internal parts of the intake many so I left it aloe to avoid problems. I did clean it real good though.

 

Just spoke with the tech looking at my car. So far he's swapped in the original 43 injectors, reset every parameter on the ECU (throttle stop, flywheel adaptation, all the adaptive parameters), disconnected the exhaust, double checked the fuel pump and still nothing. Runs like crap, something up with the mixture. He said he's running out of ideas too, which isn't good! He doesn't think it's the MAF either. He's concerned it could be something in the engine itself, which I would find odd - so he's going to double check cam timing. The motor came from a running car that had a fire, and I never messed around with the timing chains, never even had the timing cover off.

And nothing is showing for fault codes or anything, so he's guessing it's a mechanical issue, ie. timing.

Hopefully will know more tonight...fingers crossed it's something that's fixable!!!

 

Man after all that work, Im sorry to hear about your troubles..Good luck with getting it up and running.. Im sure it will all be worth it after its on the rode and you get that smile on your face.

 

I think its an Electrical or Air issues, try to remove the Maf wire connector while the car running if any changing or shaking, as same as each of the coil

connector........

ZAYED,,

 

with all the support and ideas coming from various members in this forum,
I hope it gets resolved soon. I feel your frustration after all the hard work and long hours you've put into this project.
I hope it is something simple and inexpensive that's causing all this for you.
good luck.

 

Well it sounds like you ruled out the injectors. I doubt it is inside the engine since it had to be running to have a fire. I believe it will turn out to be a vacum leak and it sure seems to act like one. Your posts suggest that the left bank it most effected. He the mechanic is using SDS he can go into the ECU and select actual values and see what is going on in each cylinder. You may want to try the intake manifold from the 43 engine just to rule out that out and check all connections and potential vacuum leaks. Make sure the mechanic is using SDS to test and diagnose. If he is using this system he should now be able to tell you exactly which cylinders are are doing what.

 

Heh, unfortunately I had to open up both manifolds, and scavanged parts from both to make up one decent one when one of the hose nipples (on the inside) broke.

I'm pessimistic too about timing being off, as I don't see how it could have been. I never touched the timing chains, never had the timing cover off nor the heads, just the valve covers and that would have no effect, of course.

I'm gonna call them again at the end of the day and see what's what.

 

Agreee,, Sometimes the great project like yours faces some simply silly things, just need some little consentrate, you finished a big things, worth

to beat the small.....

ZAYED,,

 

WEIRDNESS.

The techs pulled the valve covers and inserted the Benz tools for checking cam timing. Apparently the cams are locked into place, and when doing so, the flywheel should be at a certain point, ie. there is a larger gap in the shutter wheel to indicate TDC. However, the gap wasn't in the right place. They eventually rotated it to find TDC, so the gap is there.

I don't see how I could have put the flywheel on wrong, and this is two flywheels now that I've mounted, the one on the 55 and the one from the 43 (which is on the 55 engine right now). They only go on one way, as there is a particular pattern with a stud on the crank.

But I guess there's no way to tell unless they open it up. Therefore, the trans is coming out and we'll see. I'll bring in the 55's flywheel tomorrow too, see what they come up with in comparison.

This is the only obvious issue that's been found, everything else checks out okay.

 

That’s strange, don’t worry, you may close to it, Keep forward & wishes to good luck..........

ZAYED,,

 

Thanks for everyone's support! I'm at a big WTF. The only other thing I could think of is the new crank pulley I bought - but that wouldn't explain why the cams are lining up and the flywheel is not. The crank pulley can also only go on one way - it has a keyway machined into it. It's a big 'WTF!' to me right now!

 

Just curious, why did you use the 43 flywheel on this engine? Besides the crank position sensor reading from the flywheel, if there is any external balance used to balance the engine the balance would be off if you don't use the original 55 flywheel/flex plate. When I put the 500 engine in my Crossfire, I didn't touch the flywheel and just mated it right to the stock V6 torque converter and trans.

 

I had originally left the 55 flywheel on, but it was worse than it is now - wouldn't idle at all (whereas right now it barely idles). The part numbers are the same, and I figured if I had somehow bent the 55 flywheel when bolting the engine and trans together, I would go back to what the car knows. Clearly, no luck yet!

 

I can't see how its possible to fit the flywheel wrong with the dowel there.
Did you turn the engine backwards at any point? Im guessing the timing chain has slipped on the front lower crank pulley

 

Wow, is that at all possible with a chain??