started tear down for paint
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eclectic assortment of cars
Well, the problem is that it's not running properly or long enough to throw any codes! It will fire and then die. It can be kept running, very very poorly, if the throttle is prodded - but then you get into the dangerous sort of situation with the cat glowing red hot and again singing the heat shielding. I am certain the plug wires and coils are good. They ran when they were on the 43 - and I never took the wires off the coils, just off the plugs. I double checked those when I had the car, and I'm sure the tech would have done the same - and they've had the car since last week. The tech mentioned that the older cars don't show as much info on Star as the later cars. I don't know if he's looked at the Star with the car half idling though.
And I concur re: compression - I don't think a half point is going to kill the day, it should still run. As far as the car knows, it still thinks it's a C43, it shouldn't know what motor is under the hood.
And I concur re: compression - I don't think a half point is going to kill the day, it should still run. As far as the car knows, it still thinks it's a C43, it shouldn't know what motor is under the hood.
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c43 amg
Glad to hear the engine is healthy and compression is ok. Phew!
Is it only missing/lumpy only on the one bank?
The only bit of info I can find is the firing order changed for the w211 55k..
W210 E55 Normally aspirated: 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2
W211 E55 V8 kompressor: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
Although this shouldnt apply here, just food for thought
Is it only missing/lumpy only on the one bank?
The only bit of info I can find is the firing order changed for the w211 55k..
W210 E55 Normally aspirated: 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2
W211 E55 V8 kompressor: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
Although this shouldnt apply here, just food for thought
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From: A.D., U.A.E
2000 (W202 C200) & 2000 (W202 C55)
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
You say the engine starts and dies shortly after, but it can be kept alive prodding the accelerator. What I don't understand is how the cat becomes red hot in such a short period of time. Need to know the definition of short (in length of time)? Which cats are you using? The old c43's I assume... Are the oxygen sensors operational?
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From: Dallas
'99 C43
PHP Code:
Glad to hear the engine is healthy and compression is ok. Phew!
Is it only missing/lumpy only on the one bank?
The only bit of info I can find is the firing order changed for the w211 55k..
W210 E55 Normally aspirated: 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2
W211 E55 V8 kompressor: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
Although this shouldnt apply here, just food for thought
According to the owners manual, the C43 firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
It doesn't make sense that it would be different than a W210 E55 motor as you've noted above, but if true, could that be the problem?
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From: Lantana TX
2004 Chrysler Crossfire
PHP Code:
Glad to hear the engine is healthy and compression is ok. Phew!
Is it only missing/lumpy only on the one bank?
The only bit of info I can find is the firing order changed for the w211 55k..
W210 E55 Normally aspirated: 1-5-4-8-6-3-7-2
W211 E55 V8 kompressor: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
Although this shouldnt apply here, just food for thought
According to the owners manual, the C43 firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
It doesn't make sense that it would be different than a W210 E55 motor as you've noted above, but if true, could that be the problem?
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eclectic assortment of cars
The original C43 cats are in the car. They glow hot after several minutes of poor idling. The misfiring is leading to excessive unburnt fuel being sent through the chambers and into the cats, from my understanding.
Anyone have any idea as to changes in firing order between 113.980s?
Anyone have any idea as to changes in firing order between 113.980s?
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c43 amg
https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...ou-cant-4.html
Best way is to check what's stamped on the 55's camcovers and compare to the original
Best way is to check what's stamped on the 55's camcovers and compare to the original
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From: Lantana TX
2004 Chrysler Crossfire
Too much conflicting info out there to confirm. check valve covers of both engine. I think both engines are 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8. I had heard that the 55K's had a different firing order but never saw it for myself. this car is acting like a a car with a screwed up firing order though.
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I don't buy it that there would be a different firing order. Okay, different between 55NA and 55K, but those are apples and oranges. I can't get over to the shop to check, but I have asked them to have a look.
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
He is a very qualified MB technician and has done several 55 swaps recently with no problems, including his own C43. He could have an answer or at least some pointers to check out
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c43 amg
Ok, so I just stripped the wiring loom off the 43 and noticed that the front left injector and the actuator on the inlet manifold have the same connector and could quite easily be swapped, but nothing else sprung to mind
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From: Lantana TX
2004 Chrysler Crossfire
Here are a couple more things to consider. assuming your car is an OBDII car you cannot have an engine run like crap and make a CAT turn red without throwing a code. Even if your CEL did not come on, events are stored in the ECU. You can go into the ECU and check "Stored Events". Another problem is that once you turn a CAT bright red you have probably melted it and it is now pluged which will make the engine run bad as well. You really need to get a look at what going on cylinder by cylinder with a SDS. It sounds like the problem is on the left side which should be tellng your techs something. I have to say that I am losing faith in your techs. The right electronic equipment hooked up with the right tech interpreting the data should be able to tell you exactly what the engine is doing and know what the possible causes are and eliminate those causes one by one until the problem is found.
to get the CAT to glow red can you are most likely dumping fuel on the left side. Your CAT is probably toast now and needs to be checked. check the sparks plugs as well and know how to read them. I am very worried about a shop that can't read what is going on with the SDS or go back and look at the freeze frames and stored events, that would pull a transmisison before doing a compression check, and has not at least read the plugs. I would find a better shop before things get worse.
to get the CAT to glow red can you are most likely dumping fuel on the left side. Your CAT is probably toast now and needs to be checked. check the sparks plugs as well and know how to read them. I am very worried about a shop that can't read what is going on with the SDS or go back and look at the freeze frames and stored events, that would pull a transmisison before doing a compression check, and has not at least read the plugs. I would find a better shop before things get worse.
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From: Chapel Hill, NC/Montreal, QC
1995 C36 AMG, 1998 C43 AMG
Also have you considered unbolting the exhaust pipe from the down pipe? This would temporarily alleviate the glowing-cat problem potentially long enough for it to throw some codes (other than the ones it would throw for having the pipe disconnected) and also let you rule out that the cats have somehow been screwing things up.
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Okay, I am going through everything over and over again in my head. I spoke with another mechanic buddy, and he generally reminded me of going back to 'first principles' - ie. to examine the most obvious, basic possibilities. He got me thinking about the intake manifold and its butterflies.
So nothing else on the engine is obviously wrong - cam timing, compression, flywheel, coils, wires, etc. So what else did I muck around with? The intake manifold is really the only obvious part. Yes I replaced the front and rear main seals, but those aren't going to lead to running issues. Could there be some possibility to something buggered up in the intake manifold itself? In one regard, it's a simple device, but on the other, it's a bit more complicated than a typical one piece, cast alloy plenum with runners and a place for the throttle body to bolt up to.
All I can think of at the moment.
So nothing else on the engine is obviously wrong - cam timing, compression, flywheel, coils, wires, etc. So what else did I muck around with? The intake manifold is really the only obvious part. Yes I replaced the front and rear main seals, but those aren't going to lead to running issues. Could there be some possibility to something buggered up in the intake manifold itself? In one regard, it's a simple device, but on the other, it's a bit more complicated than a typical one piece, cast alloy plenum with runners and a place for the throttle body to bolt up to.
All I can think of at the moment.
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The other thing I thought of was plugs - but these are probably fine too. I haven't yet cross checked, but I'm guessing the 55 would take the same plugs as the 43...
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12' W204 C63 AMG coupe "T-Rex", 12' W451 Smart Fortwo Pulse (99' W202 C43 AMG + Ultima Can-Am sold)
Ahh, that could be getting warmer. I talked about a possible leak in the intake manifold in one of my previous posts and a PITTA to assemble again without leaks. If you have an untouched manifold (could be from the old 43, as I recall you dismantled the one from the 55?), get it on the 55 engine and check.
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C43/55,2k11 Volvo S60 T6AWD,2k Audi B5 S4,95 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD 500+awhp
Okay, I am going through everything over and over again in my head. I spoke with another mechanic buddy, and he generally reminded me of going back to 'first principles' - ie. to examine the most obvious, basic possibilities. He got me thinking about the intake manifold and its butterflies.
So nothing else on the engine is obviously wrong - cam timing, compression, flywheel, coils, wires, etc. So what else did I muck around with? The intake manifold is really the only obvious part. Yes I replaced the front and rear main seals, but those aren't going to lead to running issues. Could there be some possibility to something buggered up in the intake manifold itself? In one regard, it's a simple device, but on the other, it's a bit more complicated than a typical one piece, cast alloy plenum with runners and a place for the throttle body to bolt up to.
All I can think of at the moment.
So nothing else on the engine is obviously wrong - cam timing, compression, flywheel, coils, wires, etc. So what else did I muck around with? The intake manifold is really the only obvious part. Yes I replaced the front and rear main seals, but those aren't going to lead to running issues. Could there be some possibility to something buggered up in the intake manifold itself? In one regard, it's a simple device, but on the other, it's a bit more complicated than a typical one piece, cast alloy plenum with runners and a place for the throttle body to bolt up to.
All I can think of at the moment.
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From: Lantana TX
2004 Chrysler Crossfire
If you are certain about the other things you at least have a good long block. I would be swapping the other parts from the 43 one at a time and test the engine. Like the previous poster said, swap the intake with one that has not been apart, then pull the plugs and look at each one and replace with the 43 plugs, then swap the injectors. While doing this don't bolt the exhaust back up uless you verify the Cat's aren't melted. The other mechanic you talked to is leading you on the right path.
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Yeah the only problem is that I don't have an untouched manifold, I had to scavenge parts to build up a decent one.
The plugs in there are the ones I had on the 43 since only last fall.
How to check a cat'a health visually? The down pipes are still off.
The plugs in there are the ones I had on the 43 since only last fall.
How to check a cat'a health visually? The down pipes are still off.
