The C43 is sitting for now. No time at the moment to do anything about it. If the weather's nice over the Christmas break, ie. not cooler than say -5*C or so, I may forego several hours of video gaming to try a few things on the car. Otherwise, it may have to wait for spring.

 

I just hope that your clarify what was wrong and why the two engines don't work as they should do

 

This has peaked my interest also and I am not mechanically inclined. I hope you get it resolved. Good luck.

 

Mercedes decided not to put a full size spare on the C55 because there is no room in the trunk, quad pipes...

I have C32 and there is a full size spare...


Nice thread.... love it... sad to see you didnt sucseed to put 55 in 43.... hope you will....

I drove w202 before w203 and i think that the build quality is better in w202...

Of course w203 is more modern... but i think as a car for dd w202 is better...

 

Shared,,; also with my 99% suspect about the intake Manifold with its components, need to bring another one, prefered from working

car,, {GOOD LUCK}.......

ZAYED,,

 

..........

 

Vince, we had an issue "3" days ago, i think its like yours:

Before yesterday when my friend came to me, i noticed a strange vibration in the Engine, i spray a contact cleaner to the intake manifold, it has
a leak from the EGR side, we went to my friend garage, after he removed the intake manifold, WaaaaW.., there’r a leak from many

places..;

1) EGR small hoses leaks & the gasket is soo bad

2) Bottom injector o-rings with one broken injector #6

3) Little cracked in the base of the manifold(which the gasket seated)

4) Cracked in the vaccum resonance valve( that controls the linkage doors)

5) Leak from the connector( above the Actuator)

6) Change-over valve not working

7) Most of the vaccum lines cracked

* After we washed the manifold we open it and see a lot of water inside it, also the linkage is loosing & gab in the main pin( that moves the all

doors), we press the linkage pin to make sure NOT plays again, and then clean the surface & put a special silicone, closed the manifold & leave

it 5-6 hours, to let the silicone seated properly,, after solved all these problems, the car flying like a Falcon..........

ZAYED,,

 

I am more determined than ever to sort this bloody car out. I'm still not going to keep it, but my parents are going to take it from me so at least all the brand new parts won't go to waste. Never mind all the new suspension bits, but lots and lots of little items under the hood - hoses, plastic clips, o-rings for all the AC lines, etc etc.

From Zayed's last post, it seems like that car had more issues than mine. I have new EGR hoses, new vacuum lines, resealed everything, triple checked the function of the actuator and linkage - still a mystery!

I'm waiting for spring and then will get a buddy or two to lend a hand in further diagnosis. Such a pity.

 

Good luck Vince,.........

ZAYED,,

 

+1 ^^

 

Months have passed with no progress due to the yearly occurrence of our Canadian winter. I hate working on cars during the winter because it's cold, and I don't have a heated garage (yet), so I only do stuff that really has to be done during the winter, like oil changes. The spring/summer/warmer fall months are my wrenching times.

At any rate, responding to DRB's query in another thread, there hasn't been any action on the 43. I still don't know what's wrong exactly, but I haven't been spending time trying to figure it out either. It's one thing to work on a car in the garage when it's -10 or so, it's quite another to be doing that when the car is sitting outside - and the C43 has been sitting on my patio since October or November.

I still don't think the issues are related to the intake manifold. I think there must be some issue with the electronics or wiring harness. I'm going to enlist the help of another mechanic friend to give it a whirl - but later. Despite what I've said about wrenching in the winter months, I did actually start making some money helping out some of the local S2000 guys. I helped a guy remove and replace the softtop on this car, and a mechanic friend and I just finished a supercharger install on another S2000. Next I'm hoping to line up a big brake kit install on another S2000. But first, this coming Easter long weekend I'm wrenching on my S2000 again, putting in a new clutch.

After that...well...my wife and I are expecting our first child in early June, so I suspect I will be quite busy with the new addition as opposed to car stuff! But hopefully I will get a chance to sort out the C43. I am determined to have it run again, but once it does, it will go to my parents for their fun car. Good to keep it in the family - I put waaaay to much effort (let alone money and parts) to see it go elsewhere. So once it runs again, maybe next summer, I will get the 55 back in there....

 

Good news to hear about the latest model to be included in your family stable
I hope the 43/55 gets solved finally. I understand your feelings and hesitancy working in a non heated environment during the Canadian winter

 

P-Car owners are familiar with hearing “as long as we have it out . . .”

So, as long as you’re dropping the trans are you tossing in a lightweight flywheel? Already have one? S2000s already rev. A lightweight flywheel should make it rev live a 600 sportbike. I've had lightweight flywheels and can tell you from experience - that is money well spent.

Another “must have”: Do you use a trans jack? If you don’t have a trans jack and have never used one, they make the job a lot easier. The two biggest benefits are not having to bench pressing the trans and no front seal leaks because the trans "accidentally" rested on the input shaft while being R&R’d. I bought a mechanical scissors style one ages ago. I don't remember what I paid, but it was inexpensive. There really is no going back. Ask around, one of you friends may already own one. If so borrow it.

 

Heh, this is actually the second time we've done the clutch on the S2k. The first time we actually did put in a Fidanza aluminum flywheel - 7.5 lbs, with an Exedy OEM replacement clutch (the pressure plate even had a Honda 'H' stamped on it, and everything came in Honda wrapping, just not in a Honda box). The trackday and supercharger combined to kill that, I think the fingers on the pressure plate gave way.

Going back in is a resurfaced OE flywheel (14 lbs) and a Science of Speed sport clutch kit:

http://scienceofspeed.com/products/d.../Sport_Clutch/

I also have a new rear main seal that I may get in there too. Going back to OE because the aluminum was a bit too racy for the street. Honestly, Science of Speed's own 'street' lightweight flywheel is 11.5 lbs, so I can live with the 2.5 lbs difference and don't want to go back to the Fidanza.

I also picked up a Motive Products power bleeder, with adaptors for use on both the Honda and the AMG. Should cut down on bleeding hydraulics considerably.

Trans jack - you know last time my buddy and I just bench pressed the trans into place. It's not too heavy, not like an auto trans. There's a sale on at Princess Auto right now though, so I might pick one up anyway (but then again, I want to grab a hydraulic press for half price so.... )

 

14lbs isn't bad. What you may find for some of the aftermarket companies is although the total weight is similar, the way the weight is spread across the flywheel may differ. If the weight is centralized, the engine will rev faster. Although, Honda may have already taken care of that. Honda CBR performance parts appear to be as good as anything available through the aftermarket. The factory S2000 parts might be too.

 

Just coz we were discussing it, and coz the 202 AMG forum is like the OG for me, here are pix of my dead clutch which I pulled out of the S2000 this past long weekend:

 

Oh dear...

 

Spring has sprung.

 

I was about to throw the disc out, but now I think I'll keep it and make a garage clock out of it...you know, people pay lots of money to get that type of 'burnt metal' look on their exhausts or whatever!

 

A small update. Last night, a very experienced mechanic friend came by and spent a few hours with me trying to diagnose the car. We looked at the MAF and for any vacuum leaks, looked for obvious wiring breaks, even took the ECU right out and took the case apart but not one very obvious issue. A vacuum line on the EGR was not connected, and the MAF wasn't seated nicely, but still no luck. Check for spark, checked for fuel - all present, all items getting power.

My buddy surmised maybe some issue with fuel, so we looked at the fuel pump relay - it is working. He then came up with the idea of spraying a combustible fluid (we used brake cleaner I had) into the intake. This managed to get the car to run - still very poor idle - ~750rpm - but the right bank cat wasn't glowing, and we ran it for about 5 minutes like that. It would still suddenly die if we tried to apply too much throttle.

He brought over an expensive OBD2 scanner, one that showed live readings. We saw ignition varying from about -20* to -3* BTDC - not sure if that's right or not. We also saw that most of the sensors giving inputs were indeed doing so, ie. crank and cam sensors, MAF. A few codes did come up - misfire cylinders 1 and 6, random misfire - these three disappeared after a little while of idling. One persisted, however, MAF circuit issue. I don't know if this was related to the brake clean spray into the throttle body, but this code did not disappear. We opened up the connector to the MAF and nothing obvious there, but potentially there is an issue in the rest of wiring to the ECU?

That's something to follow up with, but a quick WIS search didn't pull anything up, ie. how to check the MAF wiring circuit, with continuity or voltage figures. I need to dig more - but if anyone knows of a precise WIS document to search, do let me know! Also, I need to check the fuel pump again, and its wiring. I did not realize, but as the fuel system is returnless, fuel pressure is varied by varying the voltage to the pump, correct? So perhaps there are some issues there.

That's all for now...not too much progress, unfortunately, but some areas to chase. Wish me luck. Any suggestions are very welcome.

 

I was hoping for the answer I will look through the WIS and see if I can find anything pertaining to the MAF wiring circuit, if I do I will definitely post it.

 

Not sure how much this will help but I believe you should be throwing a P0100 code if there is a MAF circuit fault

 

Sure, "P0100 & P0110" for the MAF & ITA Circuit, i got the wiring diagram for the M119 & M113

https://i.imgur.com/slZHE.png

ZAYED,,

 

Zayed, do you have any test values for the MAF circuit?

 

Unfortunate i didn’t value all wires, i just value a "yellow/green" which is directly hot to the ITA,, its only gives 1.4v >>>>11.2v when full accelerate, it

should read 14.5v,, comes & go to the ECU & back to the TCU,, i changed the wire completely, from the ECU to the air mass connector, everything back to

normal & MAF missing issue solved........