Warped Brake Rotor

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Sep 21, 2010 | 04:04 PM
  #1  
Hey guys...I have a warped front brake rotor on my 99 C43 AMG and I need to get it replaced. Do I have to use the OEM vented rotors? Or can a different kind be used? Also, does anyone know where I could find some good prices on the rotors? Thanks!
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Sep 21, 2010 | 04:12 PM
  #2  
$224
each directional rotor
www.autohausaz.com
you can't replace just one.
Did you check run out to confirm warp?
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Sep 21, 2010 | 04:45 PM
  #3  
Ive been getting shakes in the pedal and steering wheel when i brake...so I took it to the shop and they test drove it and confirmed it was a warped brake rotor.
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Sep 21, 2010 | 05:33 PM
  #4  
Takes a lot
to warp a rotor.
Get a second opinion or have them show you the run out on the rotor.
Tie rods or cupped tires on the inner tread can also cause those symptoms.
Worth double checking before spending over 5bills only to find you did the wrong repair.
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Sep 21, 2010 | 06:03 PM
  #5  
thanks ohlord. I'm going to go get it checked out again.
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Sep 21, 2010 | 06:45 PM
  #6  
ok...i got a second opinion..and once again its been confirmed that I have a warped rotor. So I guess I will have to get some new ones. Wheres can I find some good deals?
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Sep 21, 2010 | 09:10 PM
  #7  
www.autohausaz.com
get new pads also and be sure to properly bed them in.
Easy diy job
also be sure to put the paste on the back of the shims.
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Sep 22, 2010 | 02:18 AM
  #8  
How did you manage to warp a rotor?
I've run my rotors down to 27mm (min spec 30mm) and still used them on a track day and I haven't been able to warp them!
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Sep 22, 2010 | 05:00 AM
  #9  
usually it's overzealous lug nuts or cold water on hot rotors rather than hard use on the brakes.

stoptech has nice webpage on how to bed-in. side-effect varies depending on pads; the hawk hps were smok'n like my car's on fire, but the mintex extreme (don't get these, won't stop squealling regardless of what u use, lube, shims) just smelled a little.
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Sep 22, 2010 | 06:44 AM
  #10  
Warping a rotor is pretty tough thing to do unless it got very very hot and caught cold too quickly.
On top of all the other recommendations when changing rotors (always in pairs) stated above, I would include the change to stainless steel flex hoses (if not done already) and a change with new good quality fluid and a full bleed of the circuit
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Sep 22, 2010 | 08:37 AM
  #11  
If there's enough meat in the rotor, you can always have it machined - the brake wobble should go away. Best check, or have checked, how much meat is in the rotor though. There are certain tolerances that have to be kept in mind.
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Sep 22, 2010 | 09:14 AM
  #12  
Quote: If there's enough meat in the rotor, you can always have it machined - the brake wobble should go away. Best check, or have checked, how much meat is in the rotor though. There are certain tolerances that have to be kept in mind.
Warped rotors are a VERY common problem on W124, W202 and W210... (the models I've owned). Machining is a possiblity but I wouldn't go that route..
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Sep 22, 2010 | 09:16 AM
  #13  
Quote: Hey guys...I have a warped front brake rotor on my 99 C43 AMG and I need to get it replaced. Do I have to use the OEM vented rotors? Or can a different kind be used? Also, does anyone know where I could find some good prices on the rotors? Thanks!
Though I haven't used them I've heard good things about Disc Italia.. http://www.brakeworld.com/catalog.as...G%20%28W202%29
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Sep 22, 2010 | 09:58 AM
  #14  
When I first bought the car I took it to get the brakes replaced and the shop told me I had a warped rotor and showed it to me as well. They machined both of my front rotors even after saying these rotors normally couldnt be rotated. It drove fine after that for awhile but then I had my tires replaced on the front and I believe...not positive...that the tire shop may have cranked the lug nuts to tight when putting the wheels back on which could have caused it to warp again. Idk...could be another reason, but it didn't seem to start till after that.
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Sep 22, 2010 | 10:09 AM
  #15  
you DON'T MACHINE
MB rotors they don't have enough material to machine after being in use.
The ones on your car are directional so they can't be swapped side to side.
Whoever did your brakes did you a real disservice in the first place.
Get the parts diy the job might take you a hour or two even if you never did a brake job in your life.
You definitely don't want to add the potential of cracking by installing high priced drilled rotors.
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Sep 22, 2010 | 01:04 PM
  #16  
Quote: Though I haven't used them I've heard good things about Disc Italia.. http://www.brakeworld.com/catalog.as...G%20%28W202%29
I have them on mine !
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Sep 22, 2010 | 05:47 PM
  #17  
Quote: You definitely don't want to add the potential of cracking by installing high priced drilled rotors.
i have since switched to slotted, but here's a look at cracks in my old brembos (320x28)
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Sep 23, 2010 | 03:17 AM
  #18  
The rotor looks seriously worn (outer lip) and has no (safe) life left in it. I see two cracks
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Sep 24, 2010 | 04:46 AM
  #19  
yeah, 40k miles plus 2 track days on a front heavy fwd
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