Manual Gearbox Swap C43
Last edited by unobtanium-inc; Dec 13, 2022 at 05:08 PM.




Considering going with the cd009 swap kit from xf motorsports
Gear selector can be dismounted down the the selector itself, very small.
To get the car running, no computer work has to be done. Just leave it in Park and go.
I do want to get mine reprogrammed to manual so that my check engine goes out
6 Speed transmission and Dual Mass flywheel from a C320 coupe
Brand new LUK clutch
Sport pedals from a Crossfire
Custom made metal and braided clutch line
Swiped it all from this car.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...-interest.html
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Gear selector can be dismounted down the the selector itself, very small.
To get the car running, no computer work has to be done. Just leave it in Park and go.
I do want to get mine reprogrammed to manual so that my check engine goes out
https://themercedesswapshop.com/?fbc...P9cVRaqwYxBQac
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In complete agreement with @unobtanium-inc - this is NOT a straightforward swap and much of what you read on the forums, google, YouTube, etc is completely wrong or hackery. Some of what you find may have worked in the 211, 203, 209 and maybe 210 and 208 - but not the 202 nor with ME 2.0.
Things of note -
The SLK/Crossfire shifter will not work without significant modifications. Don't bother buying one. It's roughly 3" too long and also requires a very large hole to be cut in the tunnel and with most of the mechanism located under the tunnel it would be very tight on space. I started shortening it but ended up ditching entirely once I determined it would have ended up requiring more mods to the tunnel and likely lowering the transmission (impacting the angle of the drive shaft to the center bearing). For now - I went with an IRP aftermarket BMW E46 shifter (Turner Motorsport) with a custom shift rod to the transmission. The advantage of this shifter is that most of the mechanism mounts above the tunnel under the center console wood. Much smaller hole to cut and no issues with the limited space under the tunnel. It works great - but doesn't look OEM and intrudes into the little coin tray. I think the W204 shifter might be closer to the correct length and possibly made to work for a more OEM look (at least in pictures, it doesn't look nearly as bulky as the SLK/Crossfire shifter and operates with a single rod like the IRP shifter). I'll find one and try that eventually...too many delays and I needed to get the car running first.
The SLK/Crossfire drive shaft will not work. Don't bother buying one. It's the same length as the C43 driveshaft and has a smaller flange. I wasted a ton of time trying to find an MB driveshaft that would work - not worth it. Get your C43 driveshaft lengthened and swap the flange from the 722 to the 716. I used www.drivelineandgear.com. I couldn't find a local shop that could do a Mercedes driveshaft.
The SLK/Crossfire transmission x-member will work with minor mods to the mounting holes on the driver side and elongating the two holes in the center to align the transmission mount. On the chassis, you will need to drill two holes forward of the original x-member mounting holes. Use rivnuts for a neat/clean solution. Lower the x-member down approx 3/4" with some steel spacers to get the proper alignment of the trans/driveshaft/center bearing. I ended up replacing the OEM trans mount with the @Creative Steel mount. This may not have been strictly necessary with an OEM shifter but was suggested for the IRP shifter. It did cut down on some vibration I was feeling thru the shift knob and is a very nicely made part at a fair price. If anyone wants the barely used OEM mount send me a PM.
The SLK/Crossfire pedals are a direct and easy bolt-in. For the hydraulics tap the port on the brake reservoir for the fluid supply (hole w/ grommet already in firewall) and a custom stainless/braided flexible clutch line to the soft line on the throwout bearing. I couldn't find an MB hardline that would work that was available - spent way too much time/money trying various lines. I replaced the soft line with part #211-290-30-13 b/c I wanted everything new (many of the other part #s for that line are NLA). The throwout bearing that came with the LUK kit was cheap junk - bought a FTE replacement. Also replaced the master cylinder with a new FEBI vs. running the old/used cylinder.
If you don't care about the check engine light - take apart the shifter keeping only the small portion that the wire harness plugs into (ends up being 1" by 4" by 3" module). Slide the selector into neutral and hide in the center stack behind the ashtray. Pull the 722 round connector up into the passenger footwell and bridge pins #4 and #12. This can be hidden behind the carpet up near the bottom of the dash/firewall. Everything will work - cruise, ABS, ESP, full throttle, etc. The only issue is the check engine light. I'm working with Josh at Mercedes Swap Shop to fix that - but having some issues (shift module and TCU completely removed once correctly coded). I'm confident he'll get it figured out but it's taking some time. I ran the transmission reverse switch wire w/ a grommet thru the same hole as the 722 connector. There is a two-pin connector on the shifter - tap this for reverse lights.
The car will start w/o pressing in the clutch. I believe I've figured out the wiring needed to fix this and the clutch pedal does have spots for two switches (both at the top and bottom of travel). It's not part of the ECU coding and will probably end up tapping into the starter relay wiring or EIS. Will address this once we get the ECU figured out and report back.
A C43 w/ a 55 engine, Wavetrac LSD, and 6-Speed manual PULLS very hard. My 1995 911 is so so soooooo slow in comparison.
Last edited by x463; Sep 19, 2023 at 12:56 PM.





But I'm hearing about The Mercedes Swap Shop on Facebook having a lot of success on the wiring/coding here.






