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nice info. now im on fence of full ecu tune or this jb1. ugh. anyone know how to remove speed limiter easily?
I still want a full ECU but the jury is still out on which one to actually go with. For the time being, you cannot go wrong with the JB1. See if someone is selling used. I got mine for $200 with the data cable. Best bang for buck period for the price/performance.
My initial plan was to try the JB1 for now and get fully tuned at the end of the year. With these results, a full tune would have to be @ 50% discount before I consider it.
Yah, you've really opened my eyes to the JB1. I might've considered it if I wasn't looking to build this car more. My only fear is the 'use at your own risk' with this product.
Yah, you've really opened my eyes to the JB1. I might've considered it if I wasn't looking to build this car more. My only fear is the 'use at your own risk' with this product.
You caLL your dealer, make an appointment, unplug the unit, and get it towed. In that order. Tune. No tune here.
You caLL your dealer, make an appointment, unplug the unit, and get it towed. In that order. Tune. No tune here.
This will work just as much as reflashing, or not even reflashing. At the dealer level they can't see if you're tuned, but when you blow a major part, off goes the ECU logs/data off for inspection which will show the piggy or flashed ECU. You're not at any less risk with the dealer finding out because its a Piggy that's been removed. But you're at the risk of not having anyone to warranty the work like you would with the other tuners (AMR, EC, Dinan (the best warranty))
This will work just as much as reflashing, or not even reflashing. At the dealer level they can't see if you're tuned, but when you blow a major part, off goes the ECU logs/data off for inspection which will show the piggy or flashed ECU. You're not at any less risk with the dealer finding out because its a Piggy that's been removed. But you're at the risk of not having anyone to warranty the work like you would with the other tuners (AMR, EC, Dinan (the best warranty))
I could be wrong, but I'm not sure that the dealer can detect a piggyback, aren't piggybacks designed to fool the sensors/ECU in order to give you more boost? If you look at the logs/graph I posted before, I was getting 15.2psi, but the ECU is only seeing 11.7psi? So, if the ECU is logging, it will log the 11.7 not 15.2psi
However, I know that most modern ECU's have a built-in flash counter, if you flash/tune it and flash it back to stock, it will show. Google "Audi TD1"
As far as the "warranty" with your flash, I don't have anything to say other than read the fine print and good luck with that.
I could be wrong, but I'm not sure that the dealer can detect a piggyback, aren't piggybacks designed to fool the sensors/ECU in order to give you more boost? If you look at the logs/graph I posted before, I was getting 15.2psi, but the ECU is only seeing 11.7psi? So, if the ECU is logging, it will log the 11.7 not 15.2psi
However, I know that most modern ECU's have a built-in flash counter, if you flash/tune it and flash it back to stock, it will show. Google "Audi TD1"
As far as the "warranty" with your flash, I don't have anything to say other than read the fine print and good luck with that.
We're all pretty equally screwed if the ECU data gets shipped.
I've read the fine print, it doesn't cover turbo or tranny - which are most likely to go but also not the most expensive items. It covers for internals for 32,000km. At least some piece of mind..
Are you looking for more horsepower or better gas mileage? Either way we may be able to help out, if you want to discuss give us a call at +1-888-875-2958
I still want a full ECU but the jury is still out on which one to actually go with. For the time being, you cannot go wrong with the JB1. See if someone is selling used. I got mine for $200 with the data cable. Best bang for buck period for the price/performance.
Are you looking for more horsepower or better gas mileage? Either way we may be able to help out, if you want to discuss give us a call at +1-888-875-2958
Your website doesn't show any w205 C43 ECU's! What else do you offer besides ECU's?
I am not upgrading my ECU until after Service A which will include a couple of TSBs that I have been monitoring. Most likely it will be early next year or later.
As of right now, I am completely satisfied with my JB1 with some minor modifications that I have done to it. Like 18bora has stated, I need to see an 11's time slip from one of these full "ECU" tuners with down-pipes to justify purchasing one, especially for the prices that are being offered. So far, 18bora is running the same times as guys with full ECU and downpipes.
These runs were with off the shelf JB1 unit using Map6 that comes with it standard. I was finally able figure out how/what to tweak after some reading and a few emails with Terry@BMS. Unlike other platforms (BMW,VW), boost in Map 6 is the only thing that's activated and can be tweaked in our units. I only tweaked it in a couple of spots, where I felt (via butt dyno/slips) that it could use it, this was based on BMS's standard boost settings that Terry provided me.
Setting that Terry from BMS provided, which I based my tweaking on.
>> 'RPM based target
>> psi_curve[0] = 3.0 '1500
>> psi_curve[1] = 4.0 '2000
>> psi_curve[2] = 5.0 '2500
>> psi_curve[3] = 5.0 '3000
>> psi_curve[4] = 5.0 '3500
>> psi_curve[5] = 5.0 '4000
>> psi_curve[6] = 4.5 '4500
>> psi_curve[7] = 3.5 '5000
>> psi_curve[8] = 3.0 '5500
>> psi_curve[9] = 2.5 '6000
>> psi_curve[10] = 2.0 '6500
>> psi_curve[11] = 2.0 '7000
MAP 6 Boost (example below) is what I personally tweaked, this is a standard Map that comes with the unit that anyone who buys JB1 and cable can use/tweak.
The settings that Terry gave you, are those are supposed to represent Map 1 or 2? Or are those what he recommend you start with in your map 6 tweaking?
The settings that Terry gave you, are those are supposed to represent Map 1 or 2? Or are those what he recommend you start with in your map 6 tweaking?
Those are map2 settings, map1 max request is 3psi, I believe. There is also a map0, this map is basically stock, where the JB unit doesn't add any boost. Map0 is useful if you want to do comparison runs/dyno between stock and the other maps without having to actually remove the unit.
Have you experienced any engine knock yet?
How has the car behaved since you were running this map?
Do you daily drive with this map 6 in sport+? Or do you daily map6 in comfort? Or you switch to map2 daily?
Originally Posted by desi4life10
What is needed to adjust the fuel ratio as well? This will def support the aggressive map 6 with higher psi on the turbos
Originally Posted by waisoserious
The BMS JB1 does nto allow you to adjust Air/Fuel Ratio as far as I know.
Driving modes (ECO, Comfort, Sport, S+) don't change your power output, the transmission is basically fooling you to think that you have more power in S+ by holding higher RPM and keeping the engine in the power-band. If you add too much boost in map6 the car will knock and it will pull back boost request, as I explained before. The beauty of map6 that it's a "custom" boost map. You can customize map6 from aggressive to mild. If you take map2 boost curves and mimic the values, subtract 1psi from each curve, you will have a map that's between maps 1 and 2. Likewise, Map6 can be customized to be less aggressive than map1.
Before you start adding boost, you will need to log in maps 1 and 2 and look at boost request vs. actual........ Use map1 (ECU boost) as your base guideline. Switch to map2, log and compare. If the baseline (ECU boost) in map2 logs is similar to map1 and request is similar/close to actual boost, then you can start adding boost in map6 (assuming that you have good gas in the car 93+), but if you notice that map2 isn't gaining anymore boost or losing boost (due to hot weather/crappy gas), then you're maxed. As for fueling, based on O2 sensors readings, the ECU can detect it the car is running lean and it will add more fuel. Again, if you feel uncomfortable logging and playing with boost, you can leave it in maps1 or 2, there is plenty of power there.
So when are you getting down pipes?
and an intake
that should easily get you into the 11s yea?
Downpipes, yeah. But the stock intake is perfectly fine. Could probably get a little better flowing filters for 2-3hp, but as far as the actual intakes themselves, they should be able to handle any amount of air the stock turbo's need.
Anyone even have aftermarket intake(intakes to be precise) available for this car yet? Back when I first looked into it, seemed that companies weren't in too much of a hurry to develop one as it would basically just be an aesthetic modification rather than a performance one.. So some day a company like AWE will have a carbon fiber intake that'll cost around $500-1,000 that'll look really sweet but won't give any power gains. I'll pass. That's one area that I've never understood why people want to do aesthetic mods. Little cheap things here or there, sure, but when people drop hundreds and hundreds of dollars on non power engine bay mods? These people be crazy I tell ya!
So with downpipes and a drop in filter the c43 should hit high 11s?
whats the best tune out there? Regardless of price
i know best bang for buck is burger tuning
Last edited by Cartman417; Nov 26, 2017 at 04:52 PM.
So with downpipes and a drop in filter the c43 should hit high 11s?
whats the best tune out there? Regardless of price
i know best bang for buck is burger tuning
EC and OE have the fastest times without any custom tuning. My EC has gone into 12.1 territory, and a OE coupe has as well.
With a good launch and a good track (<1000' elevation & <100*f), a car with any off the shelf stage2 tune from AMR/OE/EC should be able to break into the 11s. If all of those factors are ideal, it shouldn't be a problem at all.
No one has cracked into the 11's yet because that hasn't happened. Everyone has been missing 1, usually 2 or 3 things. Good track but it's 105* and only stage1. Stage2 but bad launches and 3000' in elevation. etc etc... My track is @ 4300' unfortunately so i can't join in on the fun But next season I bet there'll be ten cars in the 11s
With a good launch and a good track (<1000' elevation & <100*f), a car with any off the shelf stage2 tune from AMR/OE/EC should be able to break into the 11s. If all of those factors are ideal, it shouldn't be a problem at all.
No one has cracked into the 11's yet because that hasn't happened. Everyone has been missing 1, usually 2 or 3 things. Good track but it's 105* and only stage1. Stage2 but bad launches and 3000' in elevation. etc etc... My track is @ 4300' unfortunately so i can't join in on the fun But next season I bet there'll be ten cars in the 11s
I believe the transmission is what holding this car. I can get a good launch and my mph is good for 11's, but right around the 1/8, the trans seems to hesitate a little, possibly overheating from the launch or hitting a torque limiter?
BTW, I was at Atco last Saturday and ran 12.035 with a 1.73-60' ....... it's so close, but not there yet!
Below is a pic of the launch, the camera is tilted a little which makes it look it's picking up the front wheel. Original track pic here http://www.davemilcarek.com/112517a/...20R4%20044.htm
For anyone who wants to play with map6, every car is different. It's better to understand what you're doing instead of me just giving you a psi "number". What you need to do first is log with maps 1-2 settings and look at ECU psi vs. Request vs. Actual.
For example:
In a certain gear @ certain rpm, you're requesting 2psi over stock. The ECU showing 10psi, Request 12, Actual ~12 (11.5-11.9 is ok)
Same gear and rpm, you request 3psi over stock. The ECU showing 10psi, Request 13, Actual ~13 then you're ok
However, at the same gear/rpm, if you request 4psi over stock. The ECU showing 7psi, Request 11, Actual ~11 << this means that you're requesting too much and the ECU probably detecting knock, thus lowering it from the normal 10psi to 7psi.
Basically, when you requested 2 and 3psi over stock, the ECU had no problem with it and gave you your request (10psi+2psi=12psi) & (10psi+3psi=13psi)<< we are good here . But, when you requested 4psi over stock, the ECU pulled back, giving you only 7psi (to add to) instead of 10. So, if you add your 4psi to the 7, you're only getting a total of 11psi. This means 4 is too much and I'd back off a little, maybe try 3.5psi.... FYI, when you log, it can be saved as Excel cvs file (example below) which can also be opened later and viewed as graph using JB4 software, similar to the pic I posted before.
super helpful! thanks for posting these. HOw are you loggin with the unit in the engine bay? you using an extended USB cable and running it through your window? Bluetooth? running map 2 now and absolutely LOVING it!!
super helpful! thanks for posting these. HOw are you loggin with the unit in the engine bay? you using an extended USB cable and running it through your window? Bluetooth? running map 2 now and absolutely LOVING it!!
Using an extended USB cable and running it under the wipers through the door (near the side-view mirror) and closing the door on the cable, then routing the cable above the dash and behind the informant screen to the laptop on the passenger seat. The cable alone is long enough to reach inside the car and to the driver's side for quick map changes.
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But next season I bet there'll be ten cars in the 11s
