Noise on start up
0 - cold start,
Zero driving done between 0, 1 and 2. Based on fellow forum members input, does sound like a cam adjuster.
I have a JB4, scanned the codes. No codes. The car does seem to lag on building boost initially (sometimes). I replaced the vacuum pump diaphragm last year. Haven’t rechecked it.
For the cam adjusters, appears you can replace without removing the cams (assuming the cam plate hasn’t shifted). Looks like they make a tool to lock the adjuster gears, to be able to remove them. Adjusters (non-MB) and tool available on Amazon.
Thoughts? Thanks in advance for your input…




#3 has just a few knocks at the beginning (Bk2 intake VVT Gear?)
> TEST if you are concerned...
- Inspect Positions of timing marks through CPS openings
- Inspect CPS connections for oil leaking into harness
- Test VVT Gear lock pins stay locked when spinning crank 2xTurns.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Jul 5, 2025 at 10:07 PM.




Truth being told: I think you have a very mild case so far - You're catching this early instead of ignoring it until camshaft-reluctors are shifted: max repairs.
You've got the right end of this bargain.
I’ll tell ya, I found it very hard to find clear procedures for these tasks. A lot of videos, but details are spotty!
So, for timing marks, at 53 degrees, I believe you’re supposed to see half the cam adjuster? That seemed to be the case for 3 of 4. Bank 1 (passenger side?) exhaust looked different than the others. Rotated the crank several times (by the way, getting the intercooler out of the way was a PITA, thanks @TwoC400s for your video!). None of the cam adjusters snapped/shifted, so I kept moving forward.
Rotated the crank to 40 degrees. I replaced the passenger side tensioner, seemed to go just fine.
On to the driver side, removed the tensioner bolts, it got jammed in the gears when it popped. Finally got it out. However, trying to put the new one in, the arm that the tensioner pushes against is way to the left, making it impossible to fit the tensioner. Thinking that was the reason it was hard to remove the old one.
Thoughts here? I believe the timing should be at 40 degrees for the drivers side too? I’m afraid to rotate it without the tensioner. Thanks!
I also did the oil solenoid mod, so hopefully I’m good to go for a while.
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I did take pics of each of the cam positions while the crank was at 53 degrees…they all look good, maybe the passenger side exhaust is slightly off. Was hard to get a straight on pic.
Here’s the pics, starting from passenger side exhaust, intake, drivers intake, exhaust. I’ll post the videos too.
Last edited by Darrington; Aug 4, 2025 at 10:58 PM.
I keep checking the JB4 for codes, but no codes. Not sure if the JB4 can see all codes, or just some. I also posted some logs on their forum, they said everything looks good.
I wish it wasn’t such a pain to access the crank, so I could get the pulley at 53 degrees, check the timing marks and rotate to see if lock pins are working.
More to come soon, just haven’t had a chance to troubleshoot more…




I keep checking the JB4 for codes, but no codes. Not sure if the JB4 can see all codes, or just some. I also posted some logs on their forum, they said everything looks good.
I wish it wasn’t such a pain to access the crank, so I could get the pulley at 53 degrees, check the timing marks and rotate to see if lock pins are working.
More to come soon, just haven’t had a chance to troubleshoot more…








I did take pics of each of the cam positions while the crank was at 53 degrees…they all look good, maybe the passenger side exhaust is slightly off. Was hard to get a straight on pic.
Here’s the pics, starting from passenger side exhaust, intake, drivers intake, exhaust. I’ll post the videos too.
I see passenger/Bk1 EXH is messed up
I see driver side /Bk2 is all spot on time.
The shortcut is to look at positioning live while engine is at 650.Rpm idle and 1k. Rpm...
Let's try to spot a wobbly VVT gear position using your scanner on ECU data.
Typically BK2-INT is the leading bad VVT
the comes BK1-INT comes in 2nd worst
then EXH adjusters.
Worned out VVT lock pins are caused by low oil pressure around 1200.Rpm
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Aug 24, 2025 at 07:07 PM.
Doesn’t seem like this is something the JB4 can do…however to be honest, I haven’t gone further than to simply have it try to ‘read codes’ in the JB4 app.




Doesn’t seem like this is something the JB4 can do…however to be honest, I haven’t gone further than to simply have it try to ‘read codes’ in the JB4 app.
On AMZ... lookup "LAUNCH CREADER ELITE MB" fairly good deal, likely overnight delivery. Cheaper in CN mart.
Ignoring the VVT rattling is what shifts the reluctor plates off their spot to cause correlation faults -- Not what makes these engine hum

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Aug 24, 2025 at 11:33 PM.
You would need a MB specific scanner that can see other modules and read live sensor data.
I too have an occasional startup knock and rattle. Started about a month ago, im at 99k miles. Only does it when the oil is hot and can drain down, and i restart. Not normally in the mornings.
I just did an oil change last night since i was at 4600 miles, it was about due anyway. Hoping that will help.
@Darrington did you add the oil restrictors/check valve to the tensioners as well or does our year already have them?




You would need a MB specific scanner that can see other modules and read live sensor data.
I too have an occasional startup knock and rattle. Started about a month ago, im at 99k miles. Only does it when the oil is hot and can drain down, and i restart. Not normally in the mornings.
I just did an oil change last night since i was at 4600 miles, it was about due anyway. Hoping that will help.
@Darrington did you add the oil restrictors/check valve to the tensioners as well or does our year already have them?
I remember my second MB schedule oil change was late by a month and my low mileage VVT rattled with hot oil restart.
Hot thin oil bleeds right out of perfectly ok VVT + Tensioners. Preserving lock-pins from wear is a reason for more effective oiling.

Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Aug 25, 2025 at 03:38 PM.
I think our C400s have the restrictors? I think I checked the engine number. Here’s a pic as well.
You would need a MB specific scanner that can see other modules and read live sensor data.
I too have an occasional startup knock and rattle. Started about a month ago, im at 99k miles. Only does it when the oil is hot and can drain down, and i restart. Not normally in the mornings.
I just did an oil change last night since i was at 4600 miles, it was about due anyway. Hoping that will help.
@Darrington did you add the oil restrictors/check valve to the tensioners as well or does our year already have them?




oil rushing out
Oil forced out of a defective VVT Phaser is a telltale sign of it having a bad lock pin.
-- the first time VVT is manually rotated clockwise oil gets forced out (pic.)
-- the second time you can hear a straight snap because no VVT oil is now empty.
The forward motion is applied by the camshaft force driven by valves.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Aug 25, 2025 at 08:21 PM.
oil rushing out
Oil forced out of a defective VVT Phaser is a telltale sign of it having a bad lock pin.
-- the first time VVT is manually rotated clockwise oil gets forced out (pic.)
-- the second time you can hear a straight snap because no VVT oil is now empty.
The forward motion is applied by the camshaft force driven by valves.




Now you can look at live timing data to assess the situation without intake disassembly. Saves real time.
If it rattles... data are going to evidence it with your scanner!
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; Aug 26, 2025 at 01:14 AM.




