C63 Oil Change w/ Mityvac :: Write-up and Photos
06-22-2010, 12:26 AM
#76
MBWorld Fanatic!
Not according to my neighbor,who is a senior MB Tech. And I was able to watch my "A" service and the oil was indeed drained via the oilpan drain plug.
Very good write-up though and for the inexperienced that INSIST on doing their own oil changes,its safer than cross-threading the drain plug.
Very good write-up though and for the inexperienced that INSIST on doing their own oil changes,its safer than cross-threading the drain plug.
Last edited by Sincity; 06-22-2010 at 12:43 AM.
07-06-2010, 10:59 PM
#77
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Hong Kong/Charlotte
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2010 C63
Mea culpa - sort of. .
There is a discussion similar to this on the PL, where someone posted factory oil change instructions for a W212 E63, which noted that oil should be drained from the drain plug in both the rear oil pan and the oil cooler. Of course, someone noted that their dealer still uses suction, etc. etc.
In addition, an AMG rep noted that it was not necessary to drain the oil cooler, in spite of the factory instructions. So, whatever -- no one can agree on this stupid topic.
So being up for a little experiment this past weekend, I decided to put the top sider to the test.
First, I used my trusty top sider to draw oil through the dip stick tube (against the instructions posted for the E63). I then jacked the vehicle and drained the remaining oil from the oil pan. I got another 1.2 cups of oil from the pan, which I do not consider significant, especially for my short change intervals. But then I drained the oil from the oil coolers and got another 2 cups.
So 3.2 cups of oil remained after using the top sider. (I did not tip the nose of the car up a bit as I normally do when using the top sider, so conceiveably some of this oil may have been drained from the top if I had done so - esp. the 1.2 cups in the pan). Despite my enthusiastic endorsement above, I am a bit torn about using the top sider now - at least on the 63. Out of 9 total quarts oil capacity, 3.2 cups is not completely insignificant (but not a huge deal, either). But it is a real PITA to jack the car.
My plan now is to continue to use the top sider, but every once in a while drain the pan and coolers from the bottom. I am comfortable with the top sider approach (esp. with my less than 5k mile change interval), but wanted everyone to know my experience so you can make your own choice as to oil change approach.
In addition, an AMG rep noted that it was not necessary to drain the oil cooler, in spite of the factory instructions. So, whatever -- no one can agree on this stupid topic.
So being up for a little experiment this past weekend, I decided to put the top sider to the test.
First, I used my trusty top sider to draw oil through the dip stick tube (against the instructions posted for the E63). I then jacked the vehicle and drained the remaining oil from the oil pan. I got another 1.2 cups of oil from the pan, which I do not consider significant, especially for my short change intervals. But then I drained the oil from the oil coolers and got another 2 cups.
So 3.2 cups of oil remained after using the top sider. (I did not tip the nose of the car up a bit as I normally do when using the top sider, so conceiveably some of this oil may have been drained from the top if I had done so - esp. the 1.2 cups in the pan). Despite my enthusiastic endorsement above, I am a bit torn about using the top sider now - at least on the 63. Out of 9 total quarts oil capacity, 3.2 cups is not completely insignificant (but not a huge deal, either). But it is a real PITA to jack the car.
My plan now is to continue to use the top sider, but every once in a while drain the pan and coolers from the bottom. I am comfortable with the top sider approach (esp. with my less than 5k mile change interval), but wanted everyone to know my experience so you can make your own choice as to oil change approach.
07-07-2010, 12:28 AM
#78
Super Moderator Alumni
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 2,189
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
4 Posts
2011 GLK 350, 2013 GT-R, & 2013 RAM 1500
There is a discussion similar to this on the PL, where someone posted factory oil change instructions for a W212 E63, which noted that oil should be drained from the drain plug in both the rear oil pan and the oil cooler. Of course, someone noted that their dealer still uses suction, etc. etc.
In addition, an AMG rep noted that it was not necessary to drain the oil cooler, in spite of the factory instructions. So, whatever -- no one can agree on this stupid topic.
So being up for a little experiment this past weekend, I decided to put the top sider to the test.
First, I used my trusty top sider to draw oil through the dip stick tube (against the instructions posted for the E63). I then jacked the vehicle and drained the remaining oil from the oil pan. I got another 1.2 cups of oil from the pan, which I do not consider significant, especially for my short change intervals. But then I drained the oil from the oil coolers and got another 2 cups.
So 3.2 cups of oil remained after using the top sider. (I did not tip the nose of the car up a bit as I normally do when using the top sider, so conceiveably some of this oil may have been drained from the top if I had done so - esp. the 1.2 cups in the pan). Despite my enthusiastic endorsement above, I am a bit torn about using the top sider now - at least on the 63. Out of 9 total quarts oil capacity, 3.2 cups is not completely insignificant (but not a huge deal, either). But it is a real PITA to jack the car.
My plan now is to continue to use the top sider, but every once in a while drain the pan and coolers from the bottom. I am comfortable with the top sider approach (esp. with my less than 5k mile change interval), but wanted everyone to know my experience so you can make your own choice as to oil change approach.
In addition, an AMG rep noted that it was not necessary to drain the oil cooler, in spite of the factory instructions. So, whatever -- no one can agree on this stupid topic.
So being up for a little experiment this past weekend, I decided to put the top sider to the test.
First, I used my trusty top sider to draw oil through the dip stick tube (against the instructions posted for the E63). I then jacked the vehicle and drained the remaining oil from the oil pan. I got another 1.2 cups of oil from the pan, which I do not consider significant, especially for my short change intervals. But then I drained the oil from the oil coolers and got another 2 cups.
So 3.2 cups of oil remained after using the top sider. (I did not tip the nose of the car up a bit as I normally do when using the top sider, so conceiveably some of this oil may have been drained from the top if I had done so - esp. the 1.2 cups in the pan). Despite my enthusiastic endorsement above, I am a bit torn about using the top sider now - at least on the 63. Out of 9 total quarts oil capacity, 3.2 cups is not completely insignificant (but not a huge deal, either). But it is a real PITA to jack the car.
My plan now is to continue to use the top sider, but every once in a while drain the pan and coolers from the bottom. I am comfortable with the top sider approach (esp. with my less than 5k mile change interval), but wanted everyone to know my experience so you can make your own choice as to oil change approach.
07-07-2010, 01:01 AM
#79
MBWorld Fanatic!
Interesting. I wonder if I drive the car up the ramps and use the Topsider, will I capture the 1.2 cups in the pan? Perhaps at 5k intervals, the 3.2 cups is insignificant?
07-07-2010, 09:51 AM
#80
Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Posts: 202
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
'12 CTS-V
There is a discussion similar to this on the PL, where someone posted factory oil change instructions for a W212 E63, which noted that oil should be drained from the drain plug in both the rear oil pan and the oil cooler. Of course, someone noted that their dealer still uses suction, etc. etc.
In addition, an AMG rep noted that it was not necessary to drain the oil cooler, in spite of the factory instructions. So, whatever -- no one can agree on this stupid topic.
So being up for a little experiment this past weekend, I decided to put the top sider to the test.
First, I used my trusty top sider to draw oil through the dip stick tube (against the instructions posted for the E63). I then jacked the vehicle and drained the remaining oil from the oil pan. I got another 1.2 cups of oil from the pan, which I do not consider significant, especially for my short change intervals. But then I drained the oil from the oil coolers and got another 2 cups.
So 3.2 cups of oil remained after using the top sider. (I did not tip the nose of the car up a bit as I normally do when using the top sider, so conceiveably some of this oil may have been drained from the top if I had done so - esp. the 1.2 cups in the pan). Despite my enthusiastic endorsement above, I am a bit torn about using the top sider now - at least on the 63. Out of 9 total quarts oil capacity, 3.2 cups is not completely insignificant (but not a huge deal, either). But it is a real PITA to jack the car.
My plan now is to continue to use the top sider, but every once in a while drain the pan and coolers from the bottom. I am comfortable with the top sider approach (esp. with my less than 5k mile change interval), but wanted everyone to know my experience so you can make your own choice as to oil change approach.
In addition, an AMG rep noted that it was not necessary to drain the oil cooler, in spite of the factory instructions. So, whatever -- no one can agree on this stupid topic.
So being up for a little experiment this past weekend, I decided to put the top sider to the test.
First, I used my trusty top sider to draw oil through the dip stick tube (against the instructions posted for the E63). I then jacked the vehicle and drained the remaining oil from the oil pan. I got another 1.2 cups of oil from the pan, which I do not consider significant, especially for my short change intervals. But then I drained the oil from the oil coolers and got another 2 cups.
So 3.2 cups of oil remained after using the top sider. (I did not tip the nose of the car up a bit as I normally do when using the top sider, so conceiveably some of this oil may have been drained from the top if I had done so - esp. the 1.2 cups in the pan). Despite my enthusiastic endorsement above, I am a bit torn about using the top sider now - at least on the 63. Out of 9 total quarts oil capacity, 3.2 cups is not completely insignificant (but not a huge deal, either). But it is a real PITA to jack the car.
My plan now is to continue to use the top sider, but every once in a while drain the pan and coolers from the bottom. I am comfortable with the top sider approach (esp. with my less than 5k mile change interval), but wanted everyone to know my experience so you can make your own choice as to oil change approach.
07-07-2010, 10:13 AM
#81
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,955
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
2017 Mini Cooper S Clubman ALL4 - British Racing Green
Does anyone have the breakout diagram of where the various plugs are to drain the oil, I am about to do my first change on the c63 (have done it plenty on various other cars, but have only had teh C63 for 3 months...) I plan on doing the top side method, but I am curious as to where the drain plugs are.
07-09-2010, 08:36 AM
#82
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,955
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
2017 Mini Cooper S Clubman ALL4 - British Racing Green
Okay, so yesterday I finally got the check your oil at next refueling alert. I checked it, it was way way low (barely touched the dipstick at all, never mind between the min and max marks). So I picked up 2 quarts of 0w40, put 1 in, checked level.. still now registering on the stick any higher than before.. added the second one slowly checking about every 1/3 of the bottle I poured in.. finally made it to just below the min mark on the stick...
Either I ate up alot of oil in the last 3 months since owning the car, or the oil pan is very narrow and any grade of ground other than level puts the oil somewhere else in the pan where the dipstick does not reach to get an accurate level..
So.. how narrow is the pan, and while I plan on stopping somewhere flat today to check the level, I want to make sure I am not running low, engine seems to run hot at around 225 to 230, but I drive hard. (my driveway, nor that of the auto parts store parking lot where slanted significantly, as is my road to my house, going to check in the office lot later today)
Either I ate up alot of oil in the last 3 months since owning the car, or the oil pan is very narrow and any grade of ground other than level puts the oil somewhere else in the pan where the dipstick does not reach to get an accurate level..
So.. how narrow is the pan, and while I plan on stopping somewhere flat today to check the level, I want to make sure I am not running low, engine seems to run hot at around 225 to 230, but I drive hard. (my driveway, nor that of the auto parts store parking lot where slanted significantly, as is my road to my house, going to check in the office lot later today)
07-09-2010, 09:58 AM
#83
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Hong Kong/Charlotte
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2010 C63
The pan is not small -- it holds almost 9 qts of oil (the coolers, oil filter assy., etc. holds the rest). The dip stick tube is at the back of the pan, so if car is not level, you will not get an accurate reading.
Also, it takes a while for the oil to drain off the cams, and down the passages into the pan. MB says to wait at least 5 minutes before checking oil on a hot engine.
Also, it takes a while for the oil to drain off the cams, and down the passages into the pan. MB says to wait at least 5 minutes before checking oil on a hot engine.
07-09-2010, 12:07 PM
#84
MBWorld Fanatic!
I check my oil every weekend, in the AM after sitting all night. Also check the tire pressures. For the first 10K miles, I burned about a quart every 2K miles or so, on average. I'm at 16K miles now and probably burning a quart about every 4K miles. From what I've noticed, from the min mark to the high mark on the dipstick is about 1 qt.
07-09-2010, 02:50 PM
#85
MBWorld Fanatic!
I have to do mine soon. Just got the message for my first oil change: One year at the end of July with less than 2100 miles on the odometer. 
07-09-2010, 02:55 PM
#86
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,955
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
7 Posts
2017 Mini Cooper S Clubman ALL4 - British Racing Green
I think I will change the oil as well this weekend. It's black as black and yucky, well more yucky as far as oil is already yucky to begin with. I'm still a quart low based on what was said as the oil is just barely touching the min mark on the stick when I checked at lunch.... which means I was running 3 quarts low till yesterday.. and I am an aggressive driver... and I think my mind may be playing tricks on me, as I am hearing a ticking coming from the engine now, the rockers most likely... I think, and I do not remember hearing it before....
ugg.
ugg.
09-10-2010, 04:57 PM
#87
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
C 63 2008
After 2,500 miles and a ton of time on the dyno I knew it was time to give the car some fresh oil.
My shopping list:
Swapping the oil filter was also a snap. I used a crescent wrench to take off the cap. A 32mm socket would have been better and it will also allow you to use a torque wrench so you don't over-tighten. When you replace the filter element be sure to use a new O-ring. It should have been included with your filter.
I filled the engine with fresh oil. Took it for a spin around the block. Checked the oil level and it was just under the top red marker on the stick. Perfecto!
Photos below:
The Mityvac MV7201
Oil and filter
Filter box w/ part number
Close-up of filter
New and old filter
New filter snaps into the cap
Filter and fill caps removed
Mityvac line in the dipstick tube
Connected to the Mityvac
Here comes the oil!
Almost filled up
Hope this was helpful!
My shopping list:
- a Mityvac from Amazon.com
- an OEM filter (P/N 0001803009) from the local Benz dealership (Came with new O-ring)
- 9-quarts of 0W-40 Mobile 1 Synthetic from the local Auto Parts store
- a big crescent wrench for the oil filter cap
- a small slotted screwdriver for taking off the O-ring from the filter cap
- some rags
- a small oil funnel
- Just warm the car up. (I waited until oil temp hit 175-degrees F.)
- Shut off car.
- Remove the dipstick and fill cap.
- Insert suction line into the dipstick tube until you hit bottom.
- Attach the line to the Mityvac.
- Give it 10-full pumps and it starts to evacuate the oil.
- Towards the end I gave it a bunch of additional pumps every few minutes to get the last drops of oil out.
Swapping the oil filter was also a snap. I used a crescent wrench to take off the cap. A 32mm socket would have been better and it will also allow you to use a torque wrench so you don't over-tighten. When you replace the filter element be sure to use a new O-ring. It should have been included with your filter.
I filled the engine with fresh oil. Took it for a spin around the block. Checked the oil level and it was just under the top red marker on the stick. Perfecto!
Photos below:
The Mityvac MV7201
Oil and filter
Filter box w/ part number
Close-up of filter
New and old filter
New filter snaps into the cap
Filter and fill caps removed
Mityvac line in the dipstick tube
Connected to the Mityvac
Here comes the oil!
Almost filled up
Hope this was helpful!
Thank You so much
you are the Best and You gave wonderful step by step how to do oil change for C63 even with Pictures Cool Man..!!
can i check with you did you put in all 9-quarts of 0W-40 Mobile 1 into the engine ?
and i plan to do oil change but not change the Filter because i do not know how to do it without the right tools
09-10-2010, 05:15 PM
#88
10-06-2010, 07:53 PM
#90
Super Moderator Alumni
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 2,189
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
4 Posts
2011 GLK 350, 2013 GT-R, & 2013 RAM 1500
I had my 10K mile maintenance performed yesterday. Oil was drained via both drain plugs.
There was roughly 1/2-quart of oil in the oil cooler and it took 9 1/2 total quarts to get to the fill line.
I'll continue to do MityVac sessions in between the required maintenance.
Quick photos from my BlackBerry.
There was roughly 1/2-quart of oil in the oil cooler and it took 9 1/2 total quarts to get to the fill line.
I'll continue to do MityVac sessions in between the required maintenance.
Quick photos from my BlackBerry.
10-07-2010, 06:31 AM
#92
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: So Cal
Posts: 1,291
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
'15 E63S wagon
Nice write up! Good to know you can remove all of the oil via the dipstick tube thanks to the depression in the oil pan (ATL AMG).
Last edited by VCA_AMG; 10-07-2010 at 06:38 AM.
07-01-2011, 09:17 AM
#95
MBWorld Fanatic!
I also drain my oil cooler everytime the oil is canged in both my cars. Good write up by the way. i have never used the mityvac, as I am old school, let gravity work for you.
But for all of those looking for the Flexible Service System (FSS) reset.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...st-models.html
But for all of those looking for the Flexible Service System (FSS) reset.
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...st-models.html
02-22-2012, 12:35 PM
#98
MBWorld Fanatic!
This post helped me a lot a few weeks ago when I performed my own oil change.
Car had burned 1L or oil at 7000kms
I was able to drain 7.5L with my Motive Power Extractor
A good trick is the jack up the car on the front left side to pool the oil at the dipstick (got an extra 0.5L from that)
I also sucked out the oil in and around the oil filter
Changed the filter and filled up with 7.5Ls of Motul 8100 5W40
Car had burned 1L or oil at 7000kms
I was able to drain 7.5L with my Motive Power Extractor
A good trick is the jack up the car on the front left side to pool the oil at the dipstick (got an extra 0.5L from that)
I also sucked out the oil in and around the oil filter
Changed the filter and filled up with 7.5Ls of Motul 8100 5W40
02-22-2012, 01:39 PM
#99
MBWorld Fanatic!
This post helped me a lot a few weeks ago when I performed my own oil change.
Car had burned 1L or oil at 7000kms
I was able to drain 7.5L with my Motive Power Extractor
A good trick is the jack up the car on the front left side to pool the oil at the dipstick (got an extra 0.5L from that)
I also sucked out the oil in and around the oil filter
Changed the filter and filled up with 7.5Ls of Motul 8100 5W40
Car had burned 1L or oil at 7000kms
I was able to drain 7.5L with my Motive Power Extractor
A good trick is the jack up the car on the front left side to pool the oil at the dipstick (got an extra 0.5L from that)
I also sucked out the oil in and around the oil filter
Changed the filter and filled up with 7.5Ls of Motul 8100 5W40
02-22-2012, 04:21 PM
#100
MBWorld Fanatic!
My mistake. I actually put in 8.5L of oil. The dip stick read between the marks on the dip stick after a 10 mins drive. The oil capacity is about 9L I think.
