How to do Oil Change on your C63 at Home!
02-28-2014, 08:32 AM
#76
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FYI- Just did my oil change on my 2/2010 built, and used 10 Quarts (9.46L) of oil. Drove around the block (Engine temp 85 Cel/ 185 Far) checked dipstick, and oil level just around the top (Give or take)
Only did the sump drain, not oil cooler.
Though i titled the car, by jacking from DRIVERS side (RHD car), so the drain plug was at the lowest point, and let it drain for a GOOD 30 mins, before putting drain plug back in.
I have ALWAYS used ESP 5W-40 Mobil in ALL my M156's over the years.
Oil that came out of the car was in excellent shape. No mixture of any contaminates. Oil filter also appeared to be in good shape. (Car has 50k/31miles on it) Was very happy with it.
Though, after the oil change, i did notice the engine was quieter & smoother revving.
Only did the sump drain, not oil cooler.
Though i titled the car, by jacking from DRIVERS side (RHD car), so the drain plug was at the lowest point, and let it drain for a GOOD 30 mins, before putting drain plug back in.
I have ALWAYS used ESP 5W-40 Mobil in ALL my M156's over the years.
Oil that came out of the car was in excellent shape. No mixture of any contaminates. Oil filter also appeared to be in good shape. (Car has 50k/31miles on it) Was very happy with it.
Though, after the oil change, i did notice the engine was quieter & smoother revving.
Last edited by AMG893; 02-28-2014 at 08:34 AM.
08-26-2014, 02:34 PM
#77
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I'm glad this topic has been talked about again recently, I had the same questions. I called my local dealer and they informed me that they use the 5w-40 Mobil 1 for their changes. I was trying to purchase a few quartz to maintain here to do the occasional topoff, but the one carried at the walmarto here is the 5w-40 for diesels. I passed on that not being sure but after reading this, it answered my questions.
08-26-2014, 02:44 PM
#78
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2014 C63 507 Sedan
I used these instructions to change my oil a few thousand miles ago with mobile 1 0w-40 (bought the 5 qt jugs from walmart - great price). My dealership said this is what they use.
I did not drain the oil cooler, but did some 'jackstand gymnastics' to help drain from all angles. Also this was an unscheduled oil change.. I'm planning to let them do the official service changes.
Runs like a champ.
I did not drain the oil cooler, but did some 'jackstand gymnastics' to help drain from all angles. Also this was an unscheduled oil change.. I'm planning to let them do the official service changes.
Runs like a champ.
08-27-2014, 01:10 AM
#80
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If you live in North America, the 229.51-spec 5W40 Formula M that they (the dealers themselves) are now all putting in IS NOT EVEN APPROVED for your car according to MB Germany! At least it wasnt't in July, which is the latest BEVO revision. Try telling that to your SA at the dealer.
Use the 0W40 knowing that you've got better engine protection than you would with the 5W40 Formula M and enjoy your C63!
Last edited by Diabolis; 08-27-2014 at 01:16 AM.
08-27-2014, 06:58 AM
#81
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'09 C63
I thought MB officially dropped Mobil1 as their official oil??
You guys should really stick with the 0w40 viscosity. Ferrari came out with an article a while back for why they use a 0w30 (or 0w20, I forget) on the basis that flow is better for your engine to reduce heat. But then again, Ferrari engines have higher compression rates so a low viscosity oil wouldn't be a problem.
You guys should really stick with the 0w40 viscosity. Ferrari came out with an article a while back for why they use a 0w30 (or 0w20, I forget) on the basis that flow is better for your engine to reduce heat. But then again, Ferrari engines have higher compression rates so a low viscosity oil wouldn't be a problem.
08-27-2014, 06:38 PM
#82
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2011 C63 AW
I think we will all be ok using Mobil 1 0w40 or 5w40 M or ESP 0w40 or ESP 5w40.
We are splitting the finest of hairs here and even people with OCD think this oil argument is too much.
Enough is enough....geezus.
We are splitting the finest of hairs here and even people with OCD think this oil argument is too much.
Enough is enough....geezus.
08-28-2014, 04:06 PM
#83
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11-12-2014, 05:18 PM
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2010 C63 P30
Hey peeps.
I just had an A service done at the dealer yesterday. I was watching my car get worked on for a little bit and noticed they have a vacuum system to suck the oil out of the dipstick, much like the Mity Vac.
My bill came out to $450. This is for a basic A service..... I noticed on the bill they used 10 quarts of oil. This is weird because I know from changing the oil is should take 9 max. Also I checked my oil afterwards and it is just as dark as it was when I took the car in..... What the heck. I dont know if I trust my dealer and I dont think I will be taking it back there again.
Will my CPO warranty be affected if I do my own work and document it?
I just had an A service done at the dealer yesterday. I was watching my car get worked on for a little bit and noticed they have a vacuum system to suck the oil out of the dipstick, much like the Mity Vac.
My bill came out to $450. This is for a basic A service..... I noticed on the bill they used 10 quarts of oil. This is weird because I know from changing the oil is should take 9 max. Also I checked my oil afterwards and it is just as dark as it was when I took the car in..... What the heck. I dont know if I trust my dealer and I dont think I will be taking it back there again.
Will my CPO warranty be affected if I do my own work and document it?
11-12-2014, 07:27 PM
#85
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The drain bolt on the M156 is not right at the very bottom and doesn't allow the crankcase to completely drain, so vacuuming it out gets more oil out. And, the M156 takes 9.5 L even if you don't drain the oil cooler, so 10 quarts is right on the money to the second decimal place.
I can't comment on the color of the oil, but I can assure you that a MB delership would not be in business if they were trying to stiff MB's customers by putting in dirty oil. You saw them vacuum the old oil out. What do you think it was they put back in? The same oil? The cost of the oil itself is insignificant compared to what they make on the labour. Hell, if they could, they would be happy to change your oil every single day and take your money that way. If instead you had said that the delaership had discovered a few more issues and told you they needed to replace a number of other items (that may still be serviceable for some time) and you had to pay out of pocket for them, I would believe you - but I think you're really over-reaching on this one.
I hate to break it to you, but $450 is par for the course. It's Mercedes-Benz, not Bubba's Lanmower and Auto Repair. Besides, AFAIK a CPO warranty in the US is only valid for 12 months after the original 4 year warranty expires, so on a 2010 you don't have much to worry about in that regard. If the price of the service is what has you worried, I would suggest that you try to privatley offload the car now and minimize your losses. You bought an expensive used car - or as I like to think of it, someone else's discarded goods before they became their problem - that will soon require more and more $$$ to maintain, so presumably you are aware of the ongoing maintenance costs. It's not a Toyota Camry - it is a beaten C63 that is going to require a lot of money to keep on the road. Just a word of warning.
I can't comment on the color of the oil, but I can assure you that a MB delership would not be in business if they were trying to stiff MB's customers by putting in dirty oil. You saw them vacuum the old oil out. What do you think it was they put back in? The same oil? The cost of the oil itself is insignificant compared to what they make on the labour. Hell, if they could, they would be happy to change your oil every single day and take your money that way. If instead you had said that the delaership had discovered a few more issues and told you they needed to replace a number of other items (that may still be serviceable for some time) and you had to pay out of pocket for them, I would believe you - but I think you're really over-reaching on this one.
I hate to break it to you, but $450 is par for the course. It's Mercedes-Benz, not Bubba's Lanmower and Auto Repair. Besides, AFAIK a CPO warranty in the US is only valid for 12 months after the original 4 year warranty expires, so on a 2010 you don't have much to worry about in that regard. If the price of the service is what has you worried, I would suggest that you try to privatley offload the car now and minimize your losses. You bought an expensive used car - or as I like to think of it, someone else's discarded goods before they became their problem - that will soon require more and more $$$ to maintain, so presumably you are aware of the ongoing maintenance costs. It's not a Toyota Camry - it is a beaten C63 that is going to require a lot of money to keep on the road. Just a word of warning.
11-12-2014, 08:42 PM
#86
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2010 C63 P30
The drain bolt on the M156 is not right at the very bottom and doesn't allow the crankcase to completely drain, so vacuuming it out gets more oil out. And, the M156 takes 9.5 L even if you don't drain the oil cooler, so 10 quarts is right on the money to the second decimal place.
I can't comment on the color of the oil, but I can assure you that a MB delership would not be in business if they were trying to stiff MB's customers by putting in dirty oil. You saw them vacuum the old oil out. What do you think it was they put back in? The same oil? The cost of the oil itself is insignificant compared to what they make on the labour. Hell, if they could, they would be happy to change your oil every single day and take your money that way. If instead you had said that the delaership had discovered a few more issues and told you they needed to replace a number of other items (that may still be serviceable for some time) and you had to pay out of pocket for them, I would believe you - but I think you're really over-reaching on this one.
I hate to break it to you, but $450 is par for the course. It's Mercedes-Benz, not Bubba's Lanmower and Auto Repair. Besides, AFAIK a CPO warranty in the US is only valid for 12 months after the original 4 year warranty expires, so on a 2010 you don't have much to worry about in that regard. If the price of the service is what has you worried, I would suggest that you try to privatley offload the car now and minimize your losses. You bought an expensive used car - or as I like to think of it, someone else's discarded goods before they became their problem - that will soon require more and more $$$ to maintain, so presumably you are aware of the ongoing maintenance costs. It's not a Toyota Camry - it is a beaten C63 that is going to require a lot of money to keep on the road. Just a word of warning.
I can't comment on the color of the oil, but I can assure you that a MB delership would not be in business if they were trying to stiff MB's customers by putting in dirty oil. You saw them vacuum the old oil out. What do you think it was they put back in? The same oil? The cost of the oil itself is insignificant compared to what they make on the labour. Hell, if they could, they would be happy to change your oil every single day and take your money that way. If instead you had said that the delaership had discovered a few more issues and told you they needed to replace a number of other items (that may still be serviceable for some time) and you had to pay out of pocket for them, I would believe you - but I think you're really over-reaching on this one.
I hate to break it to you, but $450 is par for the course. It's Mercedes-Benz, not Bubba's Lanmower and Auto Repair. Besides, AFAIK a CPO warranty in the US is only valid for 12 months after the original 4 year warranty expires, so on a 2010 you don't have much to worry about in that regard. If the price of the service is what has you worried, I would suggest that you try to privatley offload the car now and minimize your losses. You bought an expensive used car - or as I like to think of it, someone else's discarded goods before they became their problem - that will soon require more and more $$$ to maintain, so presumably you are aware of the ongoing maintenance costs. It's not a Toyota Camry - it is a beaten C63 that is going to require a lot of money to keep on the road. Just a word of warning.
Hmm that all makes sense. Ya I was wondering why the oil was so dark... Maybe left over oil in the oil cooler tinges the fresh stuff.
I have CPO till 2016 so its all good as far an maintenance goes, I will have to pay for one more B service before my warranty is done. And its not that I cant afford the car, was just surprised its was 450 for a oil change Haha. Il most likely be picking up a 2012+ GTR after my CPO warranty is gone.
Last edited by AMG Boost; 11-12-2014 at 08:46 PM.
11-12-2014, 09:04 PM
#87
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Probably leftover stuff from the oil cooler. They don't drain the oil cooler when they change the oil, so even the quart that's left over could make the fresh oil look like it's already been used for a year.
And, just for the record, I did not mean to imply that you can't afford a new car nor offend you in any way. I was merely taking about the mistakes that *I* have made in the past with buying used, expensive cars when I couldn't really afford them.
And, just for the record, I did not mean to imply that you can't afford a new car nor offend you in any way. I was merely taking about the mistakes that *I* have made in the past with buying used, expensive cars when I couldn't really afford them.
Last edited by Diabolis; 11-12-2014 at 09:06 PM.
11-12-2014, 11:10 PM
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2010 C63 P30
Probably leftover stuff from the oil cooler. They don't drain the oil cooler when they change the oil, so even the quart that's left over could make the fresh oil look like it's already been used for a year.
And, just for the record, I did not mean to imply that you can't afford a new car nor offend you in any way. I was merely taking about the mistakes that *I* have made in the past with buying used, expensive cars when I couldn't really afford them.
And, just for the record, I did not mean to imply that you can't afford a new car nor offend you in any way. I was merely taking about the mistakes that *I* have made in the past with buying used, expensive cars when I couldn't really afford them.
I love my C63 it is an amazing car. I am considering keeping it outside of the warranty range however the GTR is one of my dream cars. Once my C63 warranty is done in 2016 it seems like a good time to upgrade
11-13-2014, 01:19 PM
#89
Super Member
So does anyone use the 0W-40 still? I'm moving to Virginia next month and being In a "colder" state than in Southern California, should I use 0w-40 or continue to use the 5w-40 in VA?
Btw Walmart has great prices on the Mobil 1 five QT jugs at $22.44 per so if you are looking todo it yourself, great savings. They typically do not carry the correct 5w-40 but their 0w-40 is the correct spec.
Btw Walmart has great prices on the Mobil 1 five QT jugs at $22.44 per so if you are looking todo it yourself, great savings. They typically do not carry the correct 5w-40 but their 0w-40 is the correct spec.
05-13-2015, 04:12 PM
#90
Did my first oil change following the instructions on this page. Spent quiet a lot of time looking for the Oil cooler drain plug and finally found it. Its hiding behind some rubber under the middle oil cooler towards the passenger side.
Here below are the pics of the oil cooler drain bolt
Here below are the pics of the oil cooler drain bolt
06-19-2015, 12:48 AM
#91
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10-02-2015, 10:34 PM
#93
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2010 C63 AMG
Ok, so I'm a bit confused. I've seen to use the w-30 esp formula M, and I've seen to use the new 0w-40. My problem is the MB Germany says to use the 0w-40 but my I live in south Florida and the temperatures here hover around 86-93 throughout the year except for one to two months when it gets relatively cold.
Because of this hot weather in Florida, am I better off using the 5w oil over the 0w?
Because of this hot weather in Florida, am I better off using the 5w oil over the 0w?
10-02-2015, 10:51 PM
#95
This is a widely held misconception. A 0W40 oil is only thinner than 5W40 when cold, not at operating temperatures. For multi grade oils, consider the first number the 'weight' when cold, and the second the 'weight' when hot.
10-03-2015, 08:59 AM
#96
Super Member
You amateurs.
Best oil ever is.........
Liqui Moly 5w40 leichtlauf high tech.
It meets MB229.5 as well.
Check it out!!!!
Best oil ever is.........
Liqui Moly 5w40 leichtlauf high tech.
It meets MB229.5 as well.
Check it out!!!!
Last edited by sventastic82; 10-04-2015 at 09:03 AM.
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10-04-2015, 09:59 AM
#98
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I suggest you search for all the posts related to the subject by Diabolis. He has a clear and scientific understanding of which is best.
10-05-2015, 01:40 AM
#99
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Do not use any xW-30 oil in your C63. Do not use any ESP oil (MB 229.51 or 229.52) in the C63 if you live in North America (or for that matter, anywhere else if you can get a 229.5 oil). Use only MB 229.5 spec approved oils. And, don't fall for misleading marketing jargon like "designed for use in cars requiring MB 229.5 spec oil" or "compatible with MB 229.5 spec" - that's NOT the same as an MB 229.5 APPROVED oil).
While I haven't seen a VOA or UOA from the new MB-branded "MB 229.5" oil, it has been confirmend that it is now made by Shell (grey bottle with a yellow label). Now, Shell no longer sells the Helix branded oils in NA, but even if they retained the superior Helix formulation (the Pennzoil and Quaker State brands are nowhere near the quality of the old Helix), IMHO it would still be inferior to the M1 0W-40 formulation as an "all-around" oil in the C63 when it comes to engine protection, both from a viscosity and additive package standpoint.
Off the record, IMHO the only other oil that comes close to the M1 0W-40 is the Shell Rotella T6 (ester-based 5W-40 with great HTHS and additive package), but that's an HDEO oil and not approved for use in the MB despite the fact that it holds up better than most oils on the 229.5 BEVO list. I run that in my 25-year-old P-cars including the track rat, but the C63 only gets M1 0W-40.
While I haven't seen a VOA or UOA from the new MB-branded "MB 229.5" oil, it has been confirmend that it is now made by Shell (grey bottle with a yellow label). Now, Shell no longer sells the Helix branded oils in NA, but even if they retained the superior Helix formulation (the Pennzoil and Quaker State brands are nowhere near the quality of the old Helix), IMHO it would still be inferior to the M1 0W-40 formulation as an "all-around" oil in the C63 when it comes to engine protection, both from a viscosity and additive package standpoint.
Off the record, IMHO the only other oil that comes close to the M1 0W-40 is the Shell Rotella T6 (ester-based 5W-40 with great HTHS and additive package), but that's an HDEO oil and not approved for use in the MB despite the fact that it holds up better than most oils on the 229.5 BEVO list. I run that in my 25-year-old P-cars including the track rat, but the C63 only gets M1 0W-40.
10-06-2015, 04:07 PM
#100
just posting for later. I see that the pictures in the first post are missing on a couple so I will have to climb around under there to look around. I like doing all my own work on my car for the fun of learning.
