hansamg

Where is the oil cooler drain on the 2012 coupe ? I removed the mid and rearmost plastic trays and was only able to access the oil pan drainplug. 8.25 qts came out through the pan drain. I was so cramped- and pressed for time- I didn't bother removing the front panel, which has about 10 fasteners. I did this change at 4500mi. after wanting to do it at 2000mi., but never getting at it til this week. My low profile jack couldn't reach the front mid jack point ( too short) , so I drove it up on some Rhino ramps, transitioning from 2 x 12 's . Next time I'll put some 2 x 12 's under the rears also to give myself more clearance for working under the car.
I figured more oil was in the cooler than 3/4 qt.
I'll stick to my 5000mi oil change interval. I plan on logging 15,000mi/yr.
btw I always chock the rears and place jackstands under the front jack points, I don't trust the rhino ramps or even cheap jackstands .

motoman

Re "front mid jack point"...What told you this was the place to jack? thanks (incidentally I modified my HF jack stands. Exended to highest setting , thru-drilled for 3/8" thru pins. Peace of mind.)

Merc63

The front jack point has a small rubber pad on the subframe. It's the correct point to jack the front from.

motoman

merc63, thanks, I'll look for it.

otakki

There is actually quite a bit of oil in the oil cooler. Both my indy and myself were surprised at the amount in the cooler when my car's oil was changed about a month ago. My indy also pointed to the same frontal crossmember with the rubber pad as a safe front central jacking point. This coming from a trusted indy who has extensive experience with MB's. However, it's only accessible after removing the undertray unless you cut the tray.

Valvestud

Actually, the jack point is accessible without removing any covers. I became well versed in how things look under the car when I did an R&R of the front bumper and had my 2010 up on a mid rise lift to do the work.

Regards,

Joe

hansamg

So is the cooler drain plug above the front tray ?

Valvestud

That's correct. The Engine compartment paneling must be removed to access oil pan and oil cooler drain plugs. Oil cooler drain plug is to the left of the cooler as you face the front of the car.

Regards,

Joe

motoman

Otakki and valvestud . Thanks for the confirmation on the lift point. Motoman

yooker

In case anyone is still afraid of bending the subframe.

The Acura jackpoint for a TL (similar weight as the w204) is just a tow hook in the rear.

Here is where the jack point is located on the C63 from one that is on the lift


Also for all of those who have trouble getting the jack under the front lift point because of it's depth.

http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...ump-68050.html

This jack will reach it no problem. It is extremely low and long.

BerBer63

any rear jacking point like the front one?

yooker

Lift the rear of the car by the diff.

otakki

Now why can't MB publish a diagram like Honda did for their customers! I see the front central jacking point is easily accessed in that pix. I wonder if it's different for W212. I will have to roll under my car to check it out. Yes, the oil cooler bolt is at the front right on the passenger side of US cars. By the way, the oil cooler bolt will have a paint marking on it if it's never opened. My indy pointed that out to me. Just another evidence that the stealership didn't really do what the factory recommended.

Jonny Nitro

Great post, I use a mityvac car never has to leave the ground. I thought we were supposed to use 0w40?

Thanks for sharing and great pictures.

MarcusF

Mercedes-Benz has published diagrams. The five jack points are noted in both the WIS and the STAR Classic DVD. Here is an MBCA article from six years ago that discusses jack points.

otakki

There is another thread with lots of discussion on which oil is acceptable. Mityvac is great as long as you don't care about the oil in the oil cooler.

Good find!

c63buckeye

Bringing this thread back from the dead.

The Wix filter is actually the same Hengst filter that comes OEM or that you buy at the dealer.

Did the top side oil change today as an interim at 5k miles before full service. Just like my old S4, piece o' cake - 20 mins in street clothes with rubber gloves and no spills, drips or anything else. Nice.

Jon2007E63P30

Of course the PL recommends the 5W-40 with less wear inhibitors, they are run by MB who need to warrantee the catalytic converter for 10 years, and the wear inhibitors are not good for the catalytic converter.

However, at the AMG academy they are using the 0W-40.

aussie e55

is there a fleece oil filter for 2009 C63 thanks if avail. part number thanks

ld63

If you change your own oil, do you still take it in for Service A, B, etc? (but tell them not to change oil)... Or else how do you get rid of the service light?

Finally, is your warranty at risk if you DIY on oil changes?

Mort

MB will want proof that the services have been done. If you do the service yourself you do not have to take it in except for any items you could not do yourself. You can reset the service indicator yourself. https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...ator-guide.pdf

JRSJR65

Cool thanks!!

Diabolis

tfthatch13 is correct - the oil changes are at least partially due to emissions standards. Mobil 1 0W40 has a better additive package and wear protection than the Formula M 5W40, but this makes it worse in terms of what's coming out of your tailpipe and is unsuitable for use in MB's diesels with the fine particulate filters so Benz is pushing the Formula M.

And, AFAIK the Formula M ESP 5W40 is going to replace the Formula M 5W40 everywhere since it now also has 229.51 approval as valvestud pointed out above.

Diabolis

On the subject of oil changes - doesn't MB now siphon out the oil completely instead of just draining it?

I've heard that on some new cars (not MB in particular) you can't even drain the oil completely from the sump...

roadtalontsi

Im surprised no one mentioned draining the oil cooler, keep in mind the crush washer is aluminum on this not copper.