khmergod

No need for extra lugs or anything? Car is still in shop. Getting buffed and washed. Will do it soon...can't wait.

Diabolis

You said you have the new bolts in your post. What lugs are you talking about? Obviously you'll also need a deep 17mm socket for your torque wrench, but that's about it.

Seeing as you're putting on spacers, having someone there to help you out may not be a bad idea as it's somewhat cumbersome to hold the wheel up while you line up the holes on the hub, spacer and wheel at the same time.

khmergod

Thanks for tips as always.

khmergod

Will I need anti seize or wire brush?

m a x i m u s

I'm gonna use anti seize on mine.

khmergod

On the rotor hub or bolts?

m a x i m u s

Wouldn't hurt to anti seize the bolts, but probably unnecessary. I'm going to slather some on the spacer mating surfaces front and back.

khmergod

Bought a jack and anti seize. Was planning on doing it today, but wife wants to go buy a purse lol

Diabolis

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES PUT ANTI-SEIZE OR ANY OTHER TYPE OF LUBRICANT ON YOUR WHEEL BOLTS. EVER.

If you are going to be taking off the spacers, you can put a *little* copper grease ONLY ON THE HUB-CENTRIC flange (but never on the mating surface) of the hub and the spacer itself.

m a x i m u s

Why say you, Diabolis? We used anti seize on our formula racecars for years without issues.

m a x i m u s

Edit: nvm, google is a pretty good resource. I can see the point. I guess I keep applying racecar principles to a street car that needs more longevity. We would replace parts so frequently on the racecars that I guess these things don't matter as much.

khmergod

Got any links for me to read? I might not use antiseize since I garage it. My rotors always look clean.

Diabolis

The lug bolts or studs are supposed to be clean and dry. Regardless of the stories you may have heard about oxidation in winter driving or tire shops doing their own thing, Mercedes specifies that NO lubricant should be applied to the wheel bolts. Anti-seize is a lubricant.

All bolts or studs are designed to stretch a small amount to achieve their optimal clamping load. Applying any kind of lubrication alters the bolt/stud torque vs. stretch ratio, and what you'll be doing is applying too much torque and stretching (effectively weakening) the bolts even with the correct setting on your torque wrench. While some fasteners do call for a wet torque setting (usually when they are meant to be immersed in oil like in your crankcase), the wheel bolts specify a dry torque setting so that's what you should go with unless you're prepared to take the chance of seeing your own wheel overtake you.

m a x i m u s

Doesn't it count if your wheel crosses the finish line before you do? Lol.

tag81

Hey khmergod, how did this setup end up working out? I am putting my 18" OEM wheels back on and wanted to get spacers as well. I'm on stock suspension now but will likely be going with H&R springs soon. Do you think there is room for 12mm in the rear or does it look nice and flush with 10mm?

tag81

wow this looks perfect, love these wheels. I will probably just go with 15F/10R as well...

khmergod

HR springs on stock wheels and 10mm rears will occasionally rub. If you are prone to flinching when you see dips, or see cars ahead of you dipping, I wouldn't recommend it. I removed mine after 6k miles. I couldn't do it anymore lol

tag81

Hey thanks for the update! So you removed spacers on all 4 wheels or just the rears? If you don't want them any more, any chance you'd sell me your spacers and bolts?

khmergod

I removed them from all 4 wheels since I didnt want them to look funny. 15mm no rub at all. 10mm rear will rub with passengers on small dips. I wish I knew I was getting spacers, else I would have changed my stock rear spring pads up by 3mm and not have the trouble. Car functions perfectly fine with them, it's just I flinch every time I think I'll rub.

It rarely rubs without passengers, but still may rub. PM me your zip code and I'll check my post office shipping charge to your location and give you a price for the spacers and bolts. It'll be a good deal.

p.s. i read some of the previous posts. your car would be perfectly fine with stock suspension. many shops will charge you an arm and leg for the spring install. in other words, labor usually costs more than the springs itself. if you do get springs, i suggest getting 27mm spring pads for rear to replace the 24mm. 3mm would make all the difference.

Roswell

^^ homie, how can u be rubbing with 10mm spacers in the rear? Are u running wider than the oem 255?

I don't rub at all even with 2-3 passengers in the rear .. And got oem 19's.

P.S oem springs pads are 14mm , thicker pads are 17mm.

khmergod

lol I havent been on the forum for ages. My knowledge is rusty

265 PSS

Roswell

265 is the cause of ur rubbing with 10mm spacers. I'm on 255 with 10mm & it's perfectly flush w/o rubbing.

tag81

PM sent!

My winter set is on right now - 245/40/18 tires on ET35(!) wheels so it sticks out 14mm more than stock. I do rub here and there with passengers/bumps but I'm used to it. Plus I have stock 255 tires on the OEM wheels that are going back on, so I think I will be ok without any rubbing.

tag81

For you guys with H&R springs, what do you think is a fair price for the install? Just so I have a point of reference when I eventually do mine.

khmergod

Ranges from ~$150-$1100

Cali has really good rates. I got mine done for $450. Some shops will quote you for like ~8 hours. Can be done in less than 2 hours for all 4 corners if they are experienced.