Wheel Spacers for Our Cars
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W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, Taycan GTS Sport Turismo, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars
Seeing as you're putting on spacers, having someone there to help you out may not be a bad idea as it's somewhat cumbersome to hold the wheel up while you line up the holes on the hub, spacer and wheel at the same time.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: The Great White North
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, Taycan GTS Sport Turismo, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars
If you are going to be taking off the spacers, you can put a *little* copper grease ONLY ON THE HUB-CENTRIC flange (but never on the mating surface) of the hub and the spacer itself.
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C63 AMG P30 *EuroCharged*| Porsche Cayenne | Buell XB9SX
Edit: nvm, google is a pretty good resource. I can see the point. I guess I keep applying racecar principles to a street car that needs more longevity. We would replace parts so frequently on the racecars that I guess these things don't matter as much.
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2011 P31 C63 2015 CLA45
Got any links for me to read? I might not use antiseize since I garage it. My rotors always look clean.
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From: The Great White North
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, Taycan GTS Sport Turismo, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars
The lug bolts or studs are supposed to be clean and dry. Regardless of the stories you may have heard about oxidation in winter driving or tire shops doing their own thing, Mercedes specifies that NO lubricant should be applied to the wheel bolts. Anti-seize is a lubricant.
All bolts or studs are designed to stretch a small amount to achieve their optimal clamping load. Applying any kind of lubrication alters the bolt/stud torque vs. stretch ratio, and what you'll be doing is applying too much torque and stretching (effectively weakening) the bolts even with the correct setting on your torque wrench. While some fasteners do call for a wet torque setting (usually when they are meant to be immersed in oil like in your crankcase), the wheel bolts specify a dry torque setting so that's what you should go with unless you're prepared to take the chance of seeing your own wheel overtake you.
All bolts or studs are designed to stretch a small amount to achieve their optimal clamping load. Applying any kind of lubrication alters the bolt/stud torque vs. stretch ratio, and what you'll be doing is applying too much torque and stretching (effectively weakening) the bolts even with the correct setting on your torque wrench. While some fasteners do call for a wet torque setting (usually when they are meant to be immersed in oil like in your crankcase), the wheel bolts specify a dry torque setting so that's what you should go with unless you're prepared to take the chance of seeing your own wheel overtake you.
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2013 P31 C63, 2012 C63 (RIP)
Hey khmergod, how did this setup end up working out? I am putting my 18" OEM wheels back on and wanted to get spacers as well. I'm on stock suspension now but will likely be going with H&R springs soon. Do you think there is room for 12mm in the rear or does it look nice and flush with 10mm?
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From: Chicago
2013 P31 C63, 2012 C63 (RIP)
I would say go with 15mm front and 10mm rear.
Here is how it looked on my car on H&R springs:
http://imgur.com/a/dKqS2
Here is how it looked on my car on H&R springs:
http://imgur.com/a/dKqS2
wow this looks perfect, love these wheels. I will probably just go with 15F/10R as well...
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2011 P31 C63 2015 CLA45
Hey khmergod, how did this setup end up working out? I am putting my 18" OEM wheels back on and wanted to get spacers as well. I'm on stock suspension now but will likely be going with H&R springs soon. Do you think there is room for 12mm in the rear or does it look nice and flush with 10mm?
Last edited by khmergod; May 23, 2014 at 03:56 PM.
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From: Chicago
2013 P31 C63, 2012 C63 (RIP)
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From: Texas
2011 P31 C63 2015 CLA45
It rarely rubs without passengers, but still may rub. PM me your zip code and I'll check my post office shipping charge to your location and give you a price for the spacers and bolts. It'll be a good deal.
p.s. i read some of the previous posts. your car would be perfectly fine with stock suspension. many shops will charge you an arm and leg for the spring install. in other words, labor usually costs more than the springs itself. if you do get springs, i suggest getting 27mm spring pads for rear to replace the 24mm. 3mm would make all the difference.
Last edited by khmergod; May 23, 2014 at 07:59 PM.
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From: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
2010 C63 AMG, 2009 ISF , 2002 L-Tuned IS300, 2011 ML350
^^ homie, how can u be rubbing with 10mm spacers in the rear? Are u running wider than the oem 255?
I don't rub at all even with 2-3 passengers in the rear .. And got oem 19's.
P.S oem springs pads are 14mm , thicker pads are 17mm.
I don't rub at all even with 2-3 passengers in the rear .. And got oem 19's.
P.S oem springs pads are 14mm , thicker pads are 17mm.
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From: Texas
2011 P31 C63 2015 CLA45
265 PSS
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From: Chicago
2013 P31 C63, 2012 C63 (RIP)
My winter set is on right now - 245/40/18 tires on ET35(!) wheels so it sticks out 14mm more than stock. I do rub here and there with passengers/bumps but I'm used to it. Plus I have stock 255 tires on the OEM wheels that are going back on, so I think I will be ok without any rubbing.
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From: Texas
2011 P31 C63 2015 CLA45
Cali has really good rates. I got mine done for $450. Some shops will quote you for like ~8 hours. Can be done in less than 2 hours for all 4 corners if they are experienced.
