Squeaky Brakes
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2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
This is a common problem with MB brakes. Some relief can be found by thoroughly cleaning all the brake dust off the pads and calipers. Also some have found temporary relief by bedding in the pads by doing a high speed brake application in a safe area of the highway.
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From: Sydney, Australia
2010 C63 Estate
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W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, Taycan GTS Sport Turismo, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars
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From: Alberta
This and that.
So my car never did this at first and now I've started to notice the squeak especially when I am coming to a slow speed spot. Now I know some of you guys say that it's normal, but isn't this also a sign that the brake pads should be replaced?
How do I know it's not the brake pads running out and just a 'normal' squeak instead?
Thanks.
How do I know it's not the brake pads running out and just a 'normal' squeak instead?
Thanks.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
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From: San Jose area
'19 E63S sedan
So my car never did this at first and now I've started to notice the squeak especially when I am coming to a slow speed spot. Now I know some of you guys say that it's normal, but isn't this also a sign that the brake pads should be replaced?
How do I know it's not the brake pads running out and just a 'normal' squeak instead?
Thanks.
How do I know it's not the brake pads running out and just a 'normal' squeak instead?
Thanks.
The official procedure to quiet squeaky brakes is braking hard, from 100 to zero, five times in a row. It usually quiets the brakes for weeks. Where you do this safely is an exercise left to the reader. Maybe rent a runway for a few minutes?
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C63 AMG P30 *EuroCharged*| Porsche Cayenne | Buell XB9SX
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MY19AMG GT-C; MY14C63-507 - former Audi B6 S4
Your pads have wear sensors. If they're low you'll get a flickering dash light. If the light is on solid, you're way low.
The official procedure to quiet squeaky brakes is braking hard, from 100 to zero, five times in a row. It usually quiets the brakes for weeks. Where you do this safely is an exercise left to the reader. Maybe rent a runway for a few minutes?
The official procedure to quiet squeaky brakes is braking hard, from 100 to zero, five times in a row. It usually quiets the brakes for weeks. Where you do this safely is an exercise left to the reader. Maybe rent a runway for a few minutes?
From what I have read and seen, the compound of the MB pads/rotors, causes the problem.
-C
Thread Starter
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C63
Really? I was thinking about getting these when the fronts are destroyed lol.
http://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piece...ONT-p/2141.htm
http://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piece...ONT-p/2141.htm
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2012 C63;1971 280SE 3.5(Sold);2023 EQS 450 SUV 4 Matic (Wife's)
Really? I was thinking about getting these when the fronts are destroyed lol.
http://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piece...ONT-p/2141.htm
http://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piece...ONT-p/2141.htm
Don't pay any attention to that poster. He is SPAM!
Racing Brake looks like a good alternative to OEM at time of replacement.
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2009 040 Black C63, 2009 Arctic White G55, 2012 Storm Red CLS550 4Matic
I am also having this incredibly annoying issue. Just replaced my front pads with the Stoptech alternative and replaced the rears with OEM pads as Stoptech doesnt carry the rear pads for our cars and the squeaking is still there.
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From: The Great White North
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, Taycan GTS Sport Turismo, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars
High performance brakes - especially with metallic pad compounds - are prone to squealing. Some squeal more than others, and sometimes the squealing can be exacerbated by glazed pads/rotors or dirt build-up. It also gets worse as the pad wears down.
There are anti-squeal shims and anti-squeal compounds that you can (and should) apply to the back of the pads whenever you change them, but again, it is not guaranteed to completely eliminate the noise. Also, as the pad material gets thinner the brakes do squeal more.
If the cause of the squealing is glazing, doing a couple of hard (panic) stops from illegal speeds followed by some coasting (similar to what you'd do to bed in new pads) will likely cure the problem. If the cause is dirt build-up, a power washer nozzle aimed at your rotors and calipers may help if not completely eliminate the issue. If they are squealing because they're worn out or because you didn't put any shims and/or anti-squeal compound on the back of the pads, the fix is to replace the pads and/or use the shims / compound.
If none of these cures the squealing, chances are it's the pads you've got and there's nothing you can do about it short of changing them with a different pad formulation.
There are anti-squeal shims and anti-squeal compounds that you can (and should) apply to the back of the pads whenever you change them, but again, it is not guaranteed to completely eliminate the noise. Also, as the pad material gets thinner the brakes do squeal more.
If the cause of the squealing is glazing, doing a couple of hard (panic) stops from illegal speeds followed by some coasting (similar to what you'd do to bed in new pads) will likely cure the problem. If the cause is dirt build-up, a power washer nozzle aimed at your rotors and calipers may help if not completely eliminate the issue. If they are squealing because they're worn out or because you didn't put any shims and/or anti-squeal compound on the back of the pads, the fix is to replace the pads and/or use the shims / compound.
If none of these cures the squealing, chances are it's the pads you've got and there's nothing you can do about it short of changing them with a different pad formulation.
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'20 GLC300 SUV
High performance brakes - especially with metallic pad compounds - are prone to squealing. Some squeal more than others, and sometimes the squealing can be exacerbated by glazed pads/rotors or dirt build-up. It also gets worse as the pad wears down.
There are anti-squeal shims and anti-squeal compounds that you can (and should) apply to the back of the pads whenever you change them, but again, it is not guaranteed to completely eliminate the noise. Also, as the pad material gets thinner the brakes do squeal more.
If the cause of the squealing is glazing, doing a couple of hard (panic) stops from illegal speeds followed by some coasting (similar to what you'd do to bed in new pads) will likely cure the problem. If the cause is dirt build-up, a power washer nozzle aimed at your rotors and calipers may help if not completely eliminate the issue. If they are squealing because they're worn out or because you didn't put any shims and/or anti-squeal compound on the back of the pads, the fix is to replace the pads and/or use the shims / compound.
If none of these cures the squealing, chances are it's the pads you've got and there's nothing you can do about it short of changing them with a different pad formulation.
There are anti-squeal shims and anti-squeal compounds that you can (and should) apply to the back of the pads whenever you change them, but again, it is not guaranteed to completely eliminate the noise. Also, as the pad material gets thinner the brakes do squeal more.
If the cause of the squealing is glazing, doing a couple of hard (panic) stops from illegal speeds followed by some coasting (similar to what you'd do to bed in new pads) will likely cure the problem. If the cause is dirt build-up, a power washer nozzle aimed at your rotors and calipers may help if not completely eliminate the issue. If they are squealing because they're worn out or because you didn't put any shims and/or anti-squeal compound on the back of the pads, the fix is to replace the pads and/or use the shims / compound.
If none of these cures the squealing, chances are it's the pads you've got and there's nothing you can do about it short of changing them with a different pad formulation.
Also, if you really want to ensure a thorough bedding-in process, try to park the car somewhere immediately after you've done the repeated stops. If you're driving highway speeds consistently following the stops, the brakes cool off too quickly.
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From: The Great White North
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, Taycan GTS Sport Turismo, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars
Actually, that's the one thing you shouldn't do. Parking the car with hot brakes will result in the portion of the rotor that is under the (now heat-soaked) brake pads not cooling properly and is usually the # 1 cause of warped rotors. You do not want to park a car with hot brakes.
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CLS550
This thread discussing how RacingBrake developed the OE replacement brake pads for SL550:
Any Brake Pad options
Latest testimonial:RacingBrake makes me happy
Find your brake pads here:http://www.racingbrake.com/category-s/7144.htm
ET500 is our most popular "performance street" compounds (semi-metallic) that was carefully formulated to provide the following characteristics yet still under that squeaking threshold:
Yes - You can have good braking power
Yes - You can have no squeaking
Yes - You can have low dust
Any Brake Pad options
Latest testimonial:RacingBrake makes me happy
Find your brake pads here:http://www.racingbrake.com/category-s/7144.htm
ET500 is our most popular "performance street" compounds (semi-metallic) that was carefully formulated to provide the following characteristics yet still under that squeaking threshold:
- Good initial bite
- Consistent brake torque
- Excellent modulation
- Good durability
- Friendly to rotors
- Very low dust
Yes - You can have good braking power
Yes - You can have no squeaking
Yes - You can have low dust
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'20 GLC300 SUV
Actually, that's the one thing you shouldn't do. Parking the car with hot brakes will result in the portion of the rotor that is under the (now heat-soaked) brake pads not cooling properly and is usually the # 1 cause of warped rotors. You do not want to park a car with hot brakes.
Before parking I would cruise at least 1/2 mile or so at a moderate speed.
Last edited by zibby43; Jun 2, 2014 at 03:26 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: queensland australia
2009 C 63
Actually, that's the one thing you shouldn't do. Parking the car with hot brakes will result in the portion of the rotor that is under the (now heat-soaked) brake pads not cooling properly and is usually the # 1 cause of warped rotors. You do not want to park a car with hot brakes.
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From: The Great White North
W204 C63 Coupe, W166 ML350 BlueTEC, 928GT, Taycan GTS Sport Turismo, C5 Z06 & IS300 race cars
At the track, that is exactly why there is a cool-down lap before you pull back into the pits. You need to cool down you brakes before you park the car. It is a full lap (several miles or kilometers) at "legal" highway speeds.
At the drag strip you have to stop only once (and not that hard to boot), which is usually followed by a leisurely drive back to the queue... not exactly taxing on the brakes by any means.
At the drag strip you have to stop only once (and not that hard to boot), which is usually followed by a leisurely drive back to the queue... not exactly taxing on the brakes by any means.
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CLS550
The latest testimonial from an SL550 with the same squeaking problem and after replacing RacingBrake's ET500 brake pad.
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...squealing.html
Look no further on other aftermarket brands, no more trips to dealers for the squeaking issue, no more "hard braking" or "re-bedding" etc. that you were advised.
RB's ET500 is the optimal brake pad for performance driving w/o squeaking and very low on dust.
Come to RB for your complete brake solutions/upgrade and end your headaches.
Brake Pad: http://www.racingbrake.com/category-s/7144.htm
Brake Rotor: http://www.racingbrake.com/category-s/7136.htm
https://mbworld.org/forums/sl-class-...squealing.html
Look no further on other aftermarket brands, no more trips to dealers for the squeaking issue, no more "hard braking" or "re-bedding" etc. that you were advised.
RB's ET500 is the optimal brake pad for performance driving w/o squeaking and very low on dust.
Come to RB for your complete brake solutions/upgrade and end your headaches.
Brake Pad: http://www.racingbrake.com/category-s/7144.htm
Brake Rotor: http://www.racingbrake.com/category-s/7136.htm
