skratch77

I told the dealer I heard it up close with my head under the hood and its coming from the top valves/lifters on the drivers side.they setup to drop it in after the holidays

AMGonFire

Same spot I have the sound as well I honestly don't think anything is damaged or getting damaged just a design flaw is my guess cause my valve train has been thoroughly inspected and adjusters replaced and still there is some noise oil change does help with sound FYI

naptownmike

That stinks, I just took mine in for service and mentioned the noise again. They replaced the cam actuators then tested it the next day and still heard a slight noise so they replaced the cam chain tensioner as well. I have had it back for two weeks its nice and quite now under all start up conditions. I'm so glad it's sorted out for now.



Good luck

AMGonFire

Interesting that would be an easy fix

college66

Hi all,

Can someone give me their thoughts on the diagnosis I received today please. Thanks.
The car has only covered 81,000 miles and has full MB service history.

Fault codes for misfiring on cylinders 1,5,6,7,8 in fault memory as well as
0760 (Left intake camshaft Hall sensor):The time of the signal value change
is implausible
Cleared fault memory and after cranking the fault code 0760 had returned.
Carried out compression test on Star. ECU reporting RPM difference of 267
RPM, maximum permissible difference 28 RPM. Suspect internal engine
damage with fault code 0760 perhaps indicating camshaft timing is out.

AMGonFire

Some one on here just had that similar issue ended up timing was off camshaft a went out of timing somehow. The cars timing was fixed and it was fine they said it was a fluke issue search on here it was within the last few weeks

college66

Thanks AMGonfire. I'm desperately trying to find the post on the issue you refer to. If do come across it, I would be most grateful if you could share it. I'm not that tech myself, but what would the procedure be to correct the timing?


Thanks

Vladds

I know that this is 1 year old.
So, in the beginning, you were seeing on the tester the cams not advancing and you felt that it had low power. There was some noise too.You changed the adjusters and cams and feels the same.
Can you do a 0-60, please?
Put the car in sport Traction control and sport transmission.
Use this ap with an Iphone
Dynolicious

BLKROKT

You do realize that you're advising an MB Tech to use some stupid iPhone app to diagnose an issue. Right?

Vladds

I don't think you understand what's going on here.


This person, as well as a number of others has a subjective feeling that his car is low on power.
A number of people also seem to associate the loss of power with the cam adjusters.
These can be trailing behind the timing that they are supposed to actuate, and not throw any codes, but cause a ticking which is similar to a cam ticking (not the 0.5 to 1 second noise at cold start up).


Because he is trained, he took a bunch of extra steps, which I found very useful.


What is missing is a form of standardizing the seat of the pants feeling of the car is fast, or the car is not fast.


While you can call the ap stupid all you want, it provides a free way to quantify an important metric of a stock car power delivery.
The 0-60.
One of the people that seemed to have the adjuster problem brought up a 0-60 of 6 seconds.
I got a 4.7 this morning and anybody that wants to compare and has doubts can do this for free.
I feel that my car doesn't have all the power that I would expect it to have and it has this tick that could be a cam tick, or an adjuster tick. But this is subjective and if I can get the car to drop into the low 4s, I'll have to recalibrate my expectation.

Jasonoff

If you're suggesting a 0-60 time as an accurate way to measure power loss from cam adjuster efficiency, then you have 100% completely discredited yourself.

BLKROKT

Vladds

I didn't write that this replaces a dyno (especially one where you have a baseline).
I did write that it's free.
So knowing that there's a problem is something, quantifying is something else.
Knowing based on a 0-60 is better than having a bad gut feeling.


Here's the thing about the 0-60:
By example, for a W126 300SD (I had one of them), in that community they use the 0-60 as a rough way to tell if there is a power loss (most cars were stock).

BLKROKT

Honestly Vladds, that's one of the stupider things I've heard here.

An iPhone acceleration timing app is a toy. Nothing more.

Vladds

You really lack information.


Here:


Your iphone, believe it or not, has accelerometers in it. No just one and not low quality either.
-"The iPhone 6 contains a six-axis InvenSense combination gyroscope-accelerometer and a Bosch BMA280 three-axis accelerometer"


Do you know how magazines test performance? Have you heard of Vbox?


Here's a comparing test between a accelerometer based beltronics and a GPS Vbox 3.1 vs 3.4 seconds, 0-60.




So, the way an accelerometer works is to measure the accelerative force. Then of course, the unit (or phone) is able to do a stopwatch too. With force and time... formula... elementary physics...


Do you want to see some more videos?


How about Vbox vs phone ap? How about these two vs the Englishtown 1/4 mile slip?








And you know what? I don't mind anybody disagreeing with me, but prove me wrong.
Download the ap, try it and then explain with facts why I'm wrong.


By the way, Although the video above talks about using the dynolicous as a dyno, in quite a successful manner, I only referred to the 0-60 measurement.


Here's why:
Many people had bad experiece with road dynos, they seemed inaccurate.
The same happened to me. But then I discovered that if you enter the EXACT weight of the car, the results become accurate.
Problem is that entering the EXACT weight of the car is difficult.
Here is how it's done:
You fill the tank.
You drive to a truck weighing station, or a recycling plant (In long Island there's Gershow). You pay to have your car weighed with you inside.
You drive to the empty street where you test, then fill the tank again from a nearby gas station.
Enter the weight into the test rig, then you get a good result.


One last thing. For the iphone ap to work, you need to attach the iphone to the car rigidly. The better you attach it, the more accurate it will be (the accelerometer has to be tripped). I only used a windshield suction cup mount, but it works ok and can be picked up anywhere.

Jasonoff

Billy Owusu

Please help me. I got a 2006 w211 that cranks but no start. I replaced the camshaft sensors but no luck. Battery is also dead now. How can this be fixed?

Alex.currie44

Wrong forum mate but if you have an ohmeter check the resistance of the CPS. It should be just under 1k. Cold failures are rare but do happen.
I know you said you changed it but depending on where you got it and what you paid for it it could still be faulty.
If the CPS is ok then you might have to look for some codes.
You are also assuming it is getting fuel to the injectors but the pump could be gone.
One other thing that I have read but have no experience with so cannot attest to its validity is that the car's security system may have shifted to anti theft mode. Don't laugh. As I said I read it somewhere but do not know if it is true.
Get out of the car and lock it. Get back in and use the key to start it. If you have keyless go take the button out and use the key.

AMG_Drvr

Afternoon all - my first post in this forum. I'm a former W210 E55 owner for 10 years and 190K miles before it was totaled. I picked up a 2008 W211 from a forum member (great experience) with 47K miles. At 55K, got a CEL and was told the exhaust manifold had to be replaced (engine in extreme lean state). It also had a lower pan oil leak as well - as much as it hurt - I did it. I was astounded when they told me the manifold had plastic pieces that dry/crack and were not replaceable..really MB?? In fact, they had to redo the oil pan repair as the part they received was defective. I bought my W211 b/c the previous owner had already replaced the cams, deadbolts and tappets at 42,700 miles; I was unaware of the CA issue. At that time it was only "recommended" to replace them, but there was no noises so he didn't. Now, at 60K I have the cold start racket for a second or two on cold start. Dealership said have to replace the CAs at $5700 bucks......they like my money! I told them BS on all of these major repairs on a car that just turned 60K miles! MB of San Antonio, Gary Sauter is my advisor is doing the right thing. Although they aren't paying for it all, they are paying for parts, I'm paying for the labor. So in the end 2k is better than 6K. I drop it off Wed and hopefully will have a solid M156 at this point. I do love the car/styling - it has all the updates I wanted from my old W210 and I LOVED that one. Happy 4th Everybody!

Alex.currie44

Wrong forum mate but in general terms the M156 is common to the W204 and W211 63s.
I frankly am amazed that you would be looking at a cam shaft and valve train change at such low mileage. Is there eny history on this car not getting lubrication into the upper galleries of the engines in sufficient quantity? Oil pump failure? Low pressure?
Is there any history of it having had natural oil being used? This was a factor in engine failures in the early V6s which triggered a change to synthetics. Did the previous owner wimp out on the cost of oil?
This is my first M156 but I have had numerous cars from the M103 M104 M272 and M276 and this is just unheard of wear. My DOHC M104 had to have new timing chains and sprockets at 260000 km but that was as much to do with my lead foot over 225000 km I put on it because the teeth were worn on the impact side when I slammed the peddle but 60000km is pretty young in my view. The fact you are doing it again is even more amazing. The construction of the intake manifolds has been a common thing since GRPs came it use and I have never heard of one cracking unless it was dropped from a height. I am also amazed that if it was running lean due to a crack there would not be some signal in terms of a CEL which could mean a lot of stuff from MAF to god knows what.
My suspicion is there is something wrong at the core and your dealer guys do not have the knowledge of the M156 to diagnose it. See if you can find a local Indy who works on MB cars, particularly the older ones. A lot of techs these days have no experience with the normally aspirated engines and rely so much on the computer to tell them what is wrong. Not knocking them. Just saying there is no substitute for experience. My dealer in Burlingto ON 20 yr ago kept a retiree on part time to deal witth cars from the 70s for just this reason. Experience.
Hope you get it sorted.

e500slr

Here's an engine I have with the valve cover off. What do you think about the cams?

hachiroku

your cams look great. you must have lower miles on your engine. just make sure you're running a GOOD oil and you should be fine going forward.

e500slr

Would you believe me if I said that particular engine has 115,000 miles on it? I'll take some better pics but do you really think they look in decent condition. Maybe they were changed.

This is not the engine in my car. This is another engine I got from a salvage car with 115k miles on it.

hachiroku

yeah...my engine has 117k on it and the chrome/hardening treatment at the tip of the camshafts are starting to show wear on about half the lobes. at my last repair i had all my lifters replaced. i took photo's as shown below. previous owner used Mobil 1 as most do...for the past 4 years I do not touch that stuff. Not a bad oil, but there are much better oils out there. Motul 8100 with LiquiMoly MoS2 or bust.

so one thing to mention...i'm very surprised not one person has mentioned valve spring seat pressures as well as working spring rate. we all seem to follow the assumption that others have stated that the hardening treatment for the cams are subpar, and the metal used for the lifter buckets are subpar, but has anybody tested spring pressures? as people who build engines know, going with an upgraded spring or dual spring in a race built engine can exhibit the same resulting wear issues.

jack100

Sorry
Can you assist me
i have a C180 Compressor with fault code P3539 and power loss can someone help please reads boost pressure deviates from specified value
how do i fix this?