Changing brake pad's
06-16-2017, 10:04 PM
#1
Changing brake pad's
Is there a write up somewhere, or YouTube video ,I haven't changed the pads on my 09 yet, just preparing myself for the job p30 package, thanks for any tips or help
06-16-2017, 10:28 PM
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 8,045
Received 2,810 Likes
on
1,664 Posts
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
It's super easy. You need:
13mm open end wrench or socket
Punch for pins
Permatex High Temp Ceramic Brake Paste (purple)
Pads
Strong fingers, maybe a small wood dowel
1. Jack up car
2. Take off wheel
3. Remove 13mm bolt on the back side of the caliper that holds the center retaining bolt. Leave it screwed in a couple threads so you can tap the bolt out with it from the back side.
4. Tap out retaining pins with punch. Remove retaining spring - remember the orientation.
5. Clean all parts.
6. With the old pads in, use your fingers to push the caliper pistons in with the pad for leverage. It's not hard, but unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap to make it easier. Remove pads. Disconnect wear sensors, replace them if you can. I just ziptied mine out of the way as the pads I use don't have cutouts for them.
7. Clean in and around the pistons with brake cleaner liberally. Get all the grit and dust and stuff out of there. Push the 3 pistons all the way in on each side with your fingers. They all move independently, but as you push in one the others will pop back out if you don't hold them. A small wooden dowel is good to use for leverage here. I like to do one side, slid the new pad in, then do the other side.
8. Coat back of pads with the brake paste. Slide in. Reattach wear sensors.
9. Reassemble. Coat the pins and where they pivot on the springs with paste, it'll make the next job easier and prevent binding/squeaking. Put a dab of antiseize on the bolt for the center retaining bolt. Tight, but not gorilla.
Think that's it. They're dead easy to do.
13mm open end wrench or socket
Punch for pins
Permatex High Temp Ceramic Brake Paste (purple)
Pads
Strong fingers, maybe a small wood dowel
1. Jack up car
2. Take off wheel
3. Remove 13mm bolt on the back side of the caliper that holds the center retaining bolt. Leave it screwed in a couple threads so you can tap the bolt out with it from the back side.
4. Tap out retaining pins with punch. Remove retaining spring - remember the orientation.
5. Clean all parts.
6. With the old pads in, use your fingers to push the caliper pistons in with the pad for leverage. It's not hard, but unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap to make it easier. Remove pads. Disconnect wear sensors, replace them if you can. I just ziptied mine out of the way as the pads I use don't have cutouts for them.
7. Clean in and around the pistons with brake cleaner liberally. Get all the grit and dust and stuff out of there. Push the 3 pistons all the way in on each side with your fingers. They all move independently, but as you push in one the others will pop back out if you don't hold them. A small wooden dowel is good to use for leverage here. I like to do one side, slid the new pad in, then do the other side.
8. Coat back of pads with the brake paste. Slide in. Reattach wear sensors.
9. Reassemble. Coat the pins and where they pivot on the springs with paste, it'll make the next job easier and prevent binding/squeaking. Put a dab of antiseize on the bolt for the center retaining bolt. Tight, but not gorilla.
Think that's it. They're dead easy to do.
The following 2 users liked this post by BLKROKT:
C63fora2w1 (06-18-2017),
sinape62 (06-16-2017)
06-17-2017, 12:03 AM
#4
MBWorld Fanatic!
It's super easy. You need:
13mm open end wrench or socket
Punch for pins
Permatex High Temp Ceramic Brake Paste (purple)
Pads
Strong fingers, maybe a small wood dowel
1. Jack up car
2. Take off wheel
3. Remove 13mm bolt on the back side of the caliper that holds the center retaining bolt. Leave it screwed in a couple threads so you can tap the bolt out with it from the back side.
4. Tap out retaining pins with punch. Remove retaining spring - remember the orientation.
5. Clean all parts.
6. With the old pads in, use your fingers to push the caliper pistons in with the pad for leverage. It's not hard, but unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap to make it easier. Remove pads. Disconnect wear sensors, replace them if you can. I just ziptied mine out of the way as the pads I use don't have cutouts for them.
7. Clean in and around the pistons with brake cleaner liberally. Get all the grit and dust and stuff out of there. Push the 3 pistons all the way in on each side with your fingers. They all move independently, but as you push in one the others will pop back out if you don't hold them. A small wooden dowel is good to use for leverage here. I like to do one side, slid the new pad in, then do the other side.
8. Coat back of pads with the brake paste. Slide in. Reattach wear sensors.
9. Reassemble. Coat the pins and where they pivot on the springs with paste, it'll make the next job easier and prevent binding/squeaking. Put a dab of antiseize on the bolt for the center retaining bolt. Tight, but not gorilla.
Think that's it. They're dead easy to do.
13mm open end wrench or socket
Punch for pins
Permatex High Temp Ceramic Brake Paste (purple)
Pads
Strong fingers, maybe a small wood dowel
1. Jack up car
2. Take off wheel
3. Remove 13mm bolt on the back side of the caliper that holds the center retaining bolt. Leave it screwed in a couple threads so you can tap the bolt out with it from the back side.
4. Tap out retaining pins with punch. Remove retaining spring - remember the orientation.
5. Clean all parts.
6. With the old pads in, use your fingers to push the caliper pistons in with the pad for leverage. It's not hard, but unscrew the brake fluid reservoir cap to make it easier. Remove pads. Disconnect wear sensors, replace them if you can. I just ziptied mine out of the way as the pads I use don't have cutouts for them.
7. Clean in and around the pistons with brake cleaner liberally. Get all the grit and dust and stuff out of there. Push the 3 pistons all the way in on each side with your fingers. They all move independently, but as you push in one the others will pop back out if you don't hold them. A small wooden dowel is good to use for leverage here. I like to do one side, slid the new pad in, then do the other side.
8. Coat back of pads with the brake paste. Slide in. Reattach wear sensors.
9. Reassemble. Coat the pins and where they pivot on the springs with paste, it'll make the next job easier and prevent binding/squeaking. Put a dab of antiseize on the bolt for the center retaining bolt. Tight, but not gorilla.
Think that's it. They're dead easy to do.
06-17-2017, 12:59 AM
#5
Super Member
just to add to the previous write-up, I swapped the oem pads with porterfields but used permatex copper and applied to the sides of the pads where they make contact with the actual caliper. I didnt put any permatex on the backing plate where it makes contact with the piston. I suppose the purple permatex can be put there since its ceramic? I was told by a mb tech that amg pads run dry
Nevertheless, Im happy to report that after 1000 miles there is no squeaking, much less brake dust and the initial bite of the pad is almost identical to the oem pads
Nevertheless, Im happy to report that after 1000 miles there is no squeaking, much less brake dust and the initial bite of the pad is almost identical to the oem pads
Last edited by bentz69; 06-17-2017 at 01:02 AM.
06-17-2017, 01:43 AM
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
What Blkrokt said. The most laborious part is jacking up each corner and removing/reinstalling each wheel. Of course if you have a lift, then it's even easier.
06-17-2017, 02:07 AM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Trending Topics
06-17-2017, 03:18 AM
#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Originally Posted by 604 C63
So true. Rotors are dead easy also.
