Does anyone know how this works exactly? What are all of the parts (I assume cooler, fan, pump and lines), and operationally is it always on or ECU triggered by temperature?

Anyone with a Black Series Track Pack that could duck under and take pictures? I’m thinking about making something and tucking the cooler/fan behind my vented diffuser, but the plumbing and wiring complication may just mean that I throw in a BS rear end with all the OE bits and be done with it.

Thanks

Here is a shot of a CLK if it helps

http://www.ramspeedauto.com.au/blog/...tomotive-3.jpg

Lots of good install examples on the ctsv forum as well.

https://www.ctsvowners.com/forum/7-r...r-install.html

Impressive. Would like to see something similar for the C63.

Maybe worth speaking to Weistec as they did an upgraded one for the c63 black series after they fitted their stage 3 kit.

You could install the hard parts and the wiring is easy if you don't follow OEM path. Literally just put in a temp sensor/switch with an appropriate temp setting. And just wire it to a relay to kick the pump on at the temp.

If you need pictures lmk ill take when i get home,my car has track pack.

Going to start updating this thread again if anyone cares.

Got supremely lucky and a full pump and cooler assembly out of a CLK Black Series practically fell in my lap. Pics below with part numbers.

Have the cooler tucked under the rear diffuser vent so far. It’s a Setrab core.

Had the spare wheel well cut out to make room for the new exhaust and cooler pump, which attaches to a couple of tabs under the new trunk floor. Might not be sturdy enough, we’ll see if I end up mounting it to the diff bushings like they do OEM. Then I can use the factory lines too which would be nice.

Now.... how to hook it all up?
1. Do the diff covers on the track pack cars have ports, or do they tap into the drain and fill?
2. How much more fluid capacity does this all take? Do I have to overfill the diff to compensate?
3. How does the electrical connect? Could do a temp sensor and relay as mentioned above, but is there an OEM solution? If so, where do I even start with that?

Probably have more questions than that and will figure it out as I dive in.

I would tend to think that if a BS coupe came with a diff cooler setup that there could be a harness for the pump and I would guess a way to see the temp as well. But I'm not sure on that, just speculation. And honestly though I would wire it independently from the factory powertrain management for simplicity and for the fact that everything is connected and affects one another on these cars.

Yeah thanks. I agree the wiring is the least of my worries. On with the red wire. Off with the black wire. Temp sensor. Boom. I couldn’t imagine what it would take to hook into the OEM ECU management, thanks for talking me down from that one. How hot is too hot though? Should I have the pump turn on at..... 200F?

I’m a little more confused about the fluid capacity. Like, it’s an entirely closed system with no fluid reservoir. So how does this work then. I’m adding a cooler and pump and that has to add say 50% more oil to the system. How do I get the level right? Overfill the diff by a quart? Pre-fill the cooler?

And then am I drilling and tapping the diff cover, or does someone with a track pack BS or EPC handy know if I can just pickup a new diff cover already plumbed? That’d be sweet.

Well just as engine oil and not that it wouldn't get hotter, but youd want the oil to hit atleast 212 to boil off any moisture in it. But to be honest with you as much of an oil nut I am, I'm not sure on temp to be around. I would think having the pump come on around 240-50. I mean take a gander at BITOG and see what gear temps should be.

As far as filling the diff, I'd fill the diff as normal. Activate the pump with external power then top off. The system will still need to be at the proper level as if the cooler wasn't there, because the pump wont run till it hits temp. So full cooler and full diff if you get what I mean.

Same as before I'm not sure, but I'd use the diff drain port for pump suction and the diff fill port for pump return/oil out cooler return.

That’s what I was thinking, but it’d be better if there was an OE tapped diff cover so I can still drain/fill without making an unholy mess. And with a port for a temp probe.


Good call on BITOG, I’ll try the GTR forums too where they do stuff like this.
I get it on the capacity. Just not sure if it’ll try to drain back into the diff once I shut down the pump. Would be good to figure out the polarity on the pump as well as oil flow direction for the hoses too. Hmm.

True, didnt think of having the cooler mounted higher than the diff and having it possibly drain back.

So check out these pics from a CLK63 Black Series. The pump is mounted right up on the diff, because the short black line is the pickup hose. So it takes oil from the pickup/drain, sends it through the pump to the other side (right side of the pic), where one of the insulated lines connect to the pump and send oil back to the cooler. Oil goes through cooler. Other insulated line takes oil out of cooler and sends back to the diff return/fill. I don’t think the cooler would naturally drain when not in use, but these lines have got to have a check valve of some sort. I’ve got to look at this more carefully, but I think the flow is sorted.

Super basic man. As mentioned there's install guides for many off the shelf GTR diff coolers.

Diff drain plug --> filter --> pump --> cooler --> diff fill plug.

Pre-fill both the diff and cooler. Connect hoses and run the pump for a couple mins. Pull the fill hose without loosing fluid and top up the diff like you would normally.

This below diagram is for a trans but same thing for the differential and you can use a thermal on/off switch.

so going off this, I would have my pump come on at 225-230°.

Also, I would run a magnet, over trying to filter thick gear oil. You can but you really get into it is more than it's worth vs changing your diff fluid more often.

Also the diff is gears and roller bearings, not as crucial to filter as much as plain bearings. That's why OEM's just use magnetic drain plugs.

The filter is for the oil pump not the differential.

Setrab has thermal switches radially available.

http://www.setrabusa.com/products/switches/index.html

I’ve done a few coolers for race cars (Porsche’s) and they have always been 200f

I guess they have them come on sooner than I would have thought.

true, but they are usually just a gear pump

What happens if your diff has an issue and you get a bit of metal inside a gear pump? Now you're replacing multiple components.

Progress

The guys at BENZTEC decided to give this a shot since I’ve been taking up space on their lift since Oct for the trans build. They did the KMAC rear subframe and diff bushings too while they had everything apart.

No temp switch. Manual switch in the former ash tray location right next to the AFR gauge I have there now. Might change that in the future, we’ll see how this goes.

Pump went in roughly the OE location. The mount under the trunk floor was deemed to be too high and exposed.

And yeah @Phil1305, we decided to use the drain and fill plugs for simplicity. The less holes in the diff housing the better.

These guys do super clean work and pay attention to the details. Michael Long gets my seal of approval so far - good communication, interesting to brainstorm with, creative and willing to take on stupid ideas, fair - he’s the man for SoCal AMG guys as far as I’m concerned. (shoutout to @MBNRG for the intro)

It’s getting close, very exciting...