I feel like I've seen this picture a dozen times in this forum but half an hour of search failed to locate it again. Can someone redirect me?

Side note - this just started happening a couple days ago. Acceleration is a LOT more fun with stability control disabled! I was thinking I might just leave it as-is until some AH in a Suburban pulled onto the access road and - no signal on - crossed each of the three lanes at about 20 and at the last second planted himself directly in front of me as I came off the highway at 65+. My automatic reaction, based on years of driving this car with ABS on, was to completely stand on the brake pedal. I didn't realize that this big car can solidly lock all four tires at that speed! It was a huge-smoke-and-much-drama moment and I was within a couple feet of his bumper by the time things got slowed down. ABS would have allowed a much larger safety margin. I'm now very carefully modulating brake pedal pressure and allowing a little extra following distance, and am strongly motivated to get this fixed.

I did check the manual. It does address this, but it's pretty vague. At one point it says
"Carefully drive a suitable distance making slight steering movements at a speed above 12 mph (20 km/h). If the display message disappears, the functions mentioned above are available again."
Later on the same page it says "Drive on carefully. If the display message disappears, the functions mentioned above are available again."
After each of those comments, it says "If the display message continues to be displayed:
X Drive on carefully.
X Visit a qualified specialist workshop.

There's also an isolated comment, looking completely out of context, that says "For example, the on-board voltage may be insufficient." Is it possible that my barely-driven car might be suffering from Covid-induced neglect?

My alerts have occasionally disappeared, but normally they remain present. I'd really like to avoid a trip to the dealership. If anyone can offer insight into what the problem may be, I'd really appreciate it.

 

This has been happening to me for a few months now. I would say it happens 1 out of every 10 times I drive my car. I get the same error, and a loss of power steering as well. When it does happen, my speedometer also stops working, and the car feels like it is in limp mode. However, if I keep driving, all the errors go away after a few minutes and my speedometer shoots back up to the correct MPH and I regain power steering and full power. Mercedes Benz Stealer told me it was the ESP MODULE and quoted me at like $3,000. But something tells me it is a wheel speed sensor so I purchased 4 new ones, and will see if that fixes it. Nonetheless, a very annoying fault.

In conclusion, worst case - ESP Module, however if you search this error on this website you will find lots of threads with other fixes related to battery, alternator, or even cleaning the sensors.

 

Thanks for the feedback. It's a strange problem. My symptoms are a little different than yours. It's now happening EVERY time I run the car. I clearly don't have ABS or ESP, but I do NOT have any issues at all with power steering, speedometer or limp mode. Yours does indeed sound like it might be a wheel sensor. Good luck - let us know what you find when you get the swapped!

 

According to my tech, if the power steering goes out then it's not a wheel speed sensor but the abs module. You can get the module replaced for about $1500 at an independent shop.

 

You can get the ESP module repaired at a much lower cost.

See this thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...ed-sensor.html

 

I had this same problem for about two months. Then it just went away and hasn’t been back. Pretty sure it was a bad solder in the ESP module that bounced back in place. The only other person who had the exact same issues as me also had it miraculously fix itself. Good luck.

 

Did you have power steering and a working speedometer ?

 

is it a coincidence that the last two times I got car washes (one being today) and they sprayed into the wheel well, the lights came on

 

Just get the module repaired. The solder joints are garbage and a repair will fix that preventing future issues.

/thread

 

Likely, but it may simply be a case of some moron put a piece of soldered electronic board on a hard mount very close to the exhaust manifold. The solid plate alloy heat shield is pitiful.

Either way a repair will likely have it fixed for life.

 

Yeah that too but this module fails in pretty much all of the platforms. Have you pulled one apart yet? A forum member here sent me pics of his and it's shocking.

 

Dealer says he thinks it's fixed.

After at least 10 days of seeing my dash light up with ABS and ESP Currently Unavailable See Operator's Manual every single time I started moving the car, I booked an appointment with my local dealer. I fired it up the next morning to drive it into the shop and - for the first time in a week and a half - the alert didn't pop up and the icons for ESP and ABS were not illuminated. How does the F'ing car know where I'm taking it? I probably should have cancelled the appointment and just driven around for a couple more weeks to see if it had fixed itself or not, but I was tired of dealing with it so I took in on in.

They diagnosed it as right front wheel speed sensor, replaced the part (204-905-30-05, around $124, almost three times what Pelican advertises it for) and added in an armload of labor. The car hasn't shown any alerts since I picked it up (but wasn't showing any when I took it in), so we'll continue to monitor.

The work description was "Connected on-board power voltage maintainer. Connected STAR diagnostic system, scanned for fault codes. Found fault code: C111600 - Component 16/2 (fight front wheel speed sensor) is implausible. Removed, replaced, OK now."

 

Update for me: Brought to the dealer today only because I found out a family friend works there (Isn't charging me for the scan and diagnosis luckily). He called me just now and said they think it may not be the module itself, and that they are gonna keep trying to figure it out, and asked me some more questions about what happens (of course mine did not fault at the dealer either!) LOL . Now I'm praying its something stupid that they can fix....

 

I’d suggest for anyone, especially with headers, that values their ABS unit to pickup one of these. I’ve had one on for about a year because I was also concerned about the heat. It may not do much, but it’s certainly better than nothing.

 

Another Update: Brought the car to Mercedes Benz of Morristown (NJ) and my service advisor told me that he had the tech who specializes in electrical looking at it and he noticed that when they "wiggled the connector at the ESP module they were able to duplicate the fault" and so then they "disconnected It and checked the pin tension of the connectors , made sure they were tight and plugged it back in and were no longer able to duplicate the fault. after doing the same test".

They replaced a $7 cable harness part number was 000-540-23-05 on the description on the service sheet, they also did a road test and were not able to duplicate errors... so we shall see what happens... also said they plugged it back in after the test drive and got no codes from STAR after the clear. Praying it does not come back.. ! (Has not returned in the last few days of driving it thus far)

 

Probably because there's virtually no solder on pins the board for the connector. My guess a broken solder joint that's making an electrical contact by tension.

 

Update - 2 weeks since rt front wheel speed sensor was replaced by the dealer. No further problems.

 

Update: Problem has returned.... Gonna try and change out all 4 wheel speed sensors this weekend myself before I do the module.. I am getting Code: C221500 from my MB II iCarsoft , from the ESP Module (says it cant be found in the database? weird?). Also getting code C121 from the transmission control module.

I have 2 OEM Wheel speed sensors for the front, however the two I have for the rear are from FCP Euro and are - "ATE" Brand. I know this is an OE supplier for Mercedes Benz, but does anyone think having mismatched front and back OEM vs ATE will cause any errors? weird question I know... I had ordered them a while back, and never put them in (was discouraged because I never got wheel speed codes). Let me know what you guys think or if you have seen these codes , etc..

 

Do yourself a favor and bring the car to Harry at Bergen Imports in Cliffside Park. There’s nobody in the tri-state area that knows these cars better than he does. If he can’t fix it, it can’t be fixed.

 

Oh wow, I work in Cliffside Park lol.... Thank you sir, I will give him a call this week and see.

 

Yeah I only noticed because you said Morristown in your last post. He’s one of the best MB guys you’ll find anywhere in the world. Tell him Jim from LA sent ya and give him a virtual high five for me.

 

Will do , thanks!!

 

The right front wheel speed sensor on my 2012 died a bit over a year ago. The dealer replaced the sensor and cable (described above) for about $600, and I've had no further problem.

Until about a month ago, when I got the same ABS and Traction Control dash lights. I had no other significant issues, but other little things quit working. Cruise control was one of them. The auto brake lock when at a stop light was another.

Local parts store code reader showed a couple codes, the primary one being "C110200 The signal of component L6-1 (Left front axle rpm sensor) is implausible."

I got another sensor/cable assy - this one online from the Benz dealer in Robbinsville NJ, for about $80 - and swapped it out in the driveway in about an hour. I fired the car up while still on the jack stand to check and was dismayed to find that the dash alerts didn't clear. I put the wheel back on for a test drive, fired it up and, happily, as soon as the wheels started turning it all cleared!

Most of what I saw on youtube said that both the front half and the rear half of the fender liner needed to be removed. It may differ by year, but on mine I only needed to remove the back half.

 

Mine has had these symptoms for the last week. Disconnected the battery but that didn’t clear it. Reading through the thread I decided to start with the contact cleaner. Stopped last night picked some up. Didn’t get a chance to use it. Went out this morning and no faults!! Everything working as it should?? Brand new can of contact cleaner in the trunk fixed it

 

I've been having this problem recently after exceeding 20km/hr. I'm almost convinced in my case it's a voltage issue because when I drive when the issue occurs, without power steering or ABS, for 10 minutes and then turn the car on and off.. problem goes away.

Battery is only 6 months old.