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Detailed my Storm Trooper and under the hood and engine bay…
attempted to install new side markers but they only flashed 3 times and don’t want to work.
then when I replaced the original bulb it didn’t want to work either when it previously did…
also, passenger side marker is missing the pig tail so I just tried to wire nut it. (Don’t have my soldering iron here atm)
needless to say I could use some advice on fixing this issue… thanks 🙏
PS: smoked a Porsche turbo last night for 70 yards at least before he spooled up.. 😝
Nice W04 man! Im sure Darth Vader would be pleased.
Last edited by AR_motorwerkz; Aug 8, 2022 at 06:54 PM.
Thanks! Just ordered one. The cheap rubber one I had looked terrible.
Key cover just arrived. Looks Great!
The fit is really really tight. For the life of me, I couldn’t get it to click on my primary key but it fit on the second key so it looks like my first key is a hair fatter.
Tapping into the OE cooler feed or a separate system?
Weistec pan has two additional -8AN ports for adding an external trans cooler. I've already deleted the bottom front grille opening, they come blocked off and unused from the factory so we have plenty of space to add an extra cooler in there.
Couple fittings, 8AN lines and Trans cooler should be a fairly simple mod.
Weistec pan has two additional -8AN ports for adding an external trans cooler. I've already deleted the bottom front grille opening, they come blocked off and unused from the factory so we have plenty of space to add an extra cooler in there.
Couple fittings, 8AN lines and Trans cooler should be a fairly simple mod.
Going to run the fluid pump on a thermal switch? Since it's up front with air flow I'm assuming no fans.
Going to run the fluid pump on a thermal switch? Since it's up front with air flow I'm assuming no fans.
Yeah, once I get under there and remove the front bumper I'll see how I can route the setup. Need to do some research on a good pump setup so it's all automatic.
Originally Posted by hachiroku
THOSE TIRES!
this is the badesst W212 on the planet.
Thanks Barry, it's getting there. lol Maybe once I add a big blower and built trans setup.
Yeah, once I get under there and remove the front bumper I'll see how I can route the setup. Need to do some research on a good pump setup so it's all automatic.
I've been looking at the Tilton continuous duty or the earls. I'd be putting mine at the rear with fans, there's just barely any room to run lines though.
I've been looking at the Tilton continuous duty or the earls. I'd be putting mine at the rear with fans, there's just barely any room to run lines though.
If you delete the SAI pump system it should open up the drivers side opening and should look cool with a cooler behind there.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Your car is coming along great man!
Drivers side opening is absolutely huge without the SAI pump and washer fluid reservoir. I don’t know why you’d ever think about putting any of that stuff at the back of the car.
I have a Mocal cooler and pump with a Setrab 180F thermal trigger. Should be as straightforward as it gets, the mounting is a little tricky but not really if you can weld, just have to account for the extra capacity when filling the system. Can’t wait to see how yours turns out.
I’ve got too much other stuff going on and didn’t have time to deal with my car electrical and transmission gremlins so it’s been sitting at BENZTEC since March. It’s not a priority for anybody, including me. Probably looking at mid-2023 before I get back into it…
I've been looking at the Tilton continuous duty or the earls. I'd be putting mine at the rear with fans, there's just barely any room to run lines though.
Rear mount is a waste. By the time you get it mounted high enough to be sure road debris won't rip it off you'll be solely dependent on the fans for airflow, and even dual fans will only flow as much air through it as the slowest speeds on track flow through a front mount.
Drivers side lower is an OK position but that grille is obvious smaller than center grille which limits howmuch air will get to the cooler and from what i saw when i looked at that position you might have to cut vents into the wheel arch liner to exhaust the hot air properly
So my choice was front and center behind upper grill where cooler size can be large and the whole surface area gets fresh frontal airflow, and I'd use the drivers side lower for a much smaller in-series PS cooler if ever necessary.. Trans behaved great and even with the cooler in front power steering and water temp were fine through SCCA National Time trials event at Sebring in 93° weather during 12 sessions over 3 days, and through several track days since. Water temp was unchanged from before to after cooler install, leading me to believe there is plenty of headroom in the water cooling system.
Pump choice depends on mounting location, noise considerations and other factors, though mounting it in an easy to access location (even when car is on ground) will make your life easier in terms of checking connections and testing functionality.
Last edited by Dr.Speedfellow; Sep 23, 2022 at 04:03 PM.
Rear mount is a waste. By the time you get it mounted high enough to be sure road debris won't rip it off you'll be solely dependent on the fans for airflow, and even dual fans will only flow as much air through it as the slowest speeds on track flow through a front mount.
I was thinking of doing something similar to BLKROKT by removing the trunk well which would give tons of room for a cooler being out of the way of harm. The rear is a common place for trans coolers so it was just an option.
Originally Posted by Dr.Speedfellow
Drivers side lower is an OK position but that grille is obvious smaller than center grille which limits howmuch air will get to the cooler and from what i saw when i looked at that position you might have to cut vents into the wheel arch liner to exhaust the hot air properly
Exactly this. I have tons of room there, yes. I have a PFL and cutting the bumper cover for air flow will be gross then would have to figure out how to vent out the arch like the passenger side.
Originally Posted by Dr.Speedfellow
So my choice was front and center behind upper grill where cooler size can be large and the whole surface area gets fresh frontal airflow, and I'd use the drivers side lower for a much smaller in-series PS cooler if ever necessary.. Trans behaved great and even with the cooler in front power steering and water temp were fine through SCCA National Time trials event at Sebring in 93° weather during 12 sessions over 3 days, and through several track days since. Water temp was unchanged from before to after cooler install, leading me to believe there is plenty of headroom in the water cooling system.
Curious on more details.
You deleted the OE cooler and routed flow into a larger cooler?
Did you leave the plumbing to the rad endplate?
This was another option I was considering since I don't have a condenser anymore and have lots of room to sandwich something in that spot. I'm just concerned with the extra stress on the OE trans cooler pump.
The other thing I noticed. When I pulled off the track from one of my sessions yesterday. The trans cooler didn't feel hot even though it got up to 106°C and was still at 94°C ish after my cool down lap. I need to do some more research on how the trans cooler system works.
You deleted the OE cooler and routed flow into a larger cooler?
Did you leave the plumbing to the rad endplate?
This was another option I was considering since I don't have a condenser anymore and have lots of room to sandwich something in that spot. I'm just concerned with the extra stress on the OE trans cooler pump.
The other thing I noticed. When I pulled off the track from one of my sessions yesterday. The trans cooler didn't feel hot even though it got up to 106°C and was still at 94°C ish after my cool down lap. I need to do some more research on how the trans cooler system works.[/QUOTE]
I left the factory trans cooler exactly as it was, unchanged. No reason to remove it. It may not get much airflow behind the bumper support where AMG mounted it, but it still radiates heat. I just had to add an abrasion buffer to part of the factory hardline where the aftermarket oversized main engine oil cooler wanted to contact it, as just enlargingvthe mounting holes for the oil cooler as suggested by the seller did not alleviate the potential interference. That is the only minor mod I made to the factory setup.
I added an aux cooler to the weistec pan ports and mounted it right behind the upper main grille in front of the PS cooler and radiator, because that's where it would get the most airflow to it. It has its own thermally switched pump. As mentioned it had no ill effects on water temp or PS fluid venting by mounting it in front of those as evidenced during the hardest use, SCCA 3 day TT event in 93° weather earlier this year where water temp and PS were un affected. You mentioned running the lines might be difficult but you can basically follow the path of the factory trans cooler hard lines.
Regarding rear mount, you will simply never get as much airflow from rear mount with fans as you will from 60-150mph track speeds through a front mount without fans.
The only trans cooler setups I have seen previous to doing mine are the Vath add on in-series cooler from the Nurburgring guy, and several rear mount setups that absolutely can't cool as efficiently as my front mount cooler. But those people seem to just do non-competitive track days with a few sessions at a time so it may be sufficient for their purposes.
One mistake people often make in cooling setups is they get a thin cooler that can squeeze into a narrow spot, but thickness (as well as cooler design) matters a lot when it comes to efficiency. That Vath cooler I saw was very thin especially for how expensive it was. Get a better quality cooler than that for track use, Setrab makes plenty of good ones.
Last edited by Dr.Speedfellow; Sep 24, 2022 at 05:42 PM.
You deleted the OE cooler and routed flow into a larger cooler?
Did you leave the plumbing to the rad endplate?
This was another option I was considering since I don't have a condenser anymore and have lots of room to sandwich something in that spot. I'm just concerned with the extra stress on the OE trans cooler pump.
The other thing I noticed. When I pulled off the track from one of my sessions yesterday. The trans cooler didn't feel hot even though it got up to 106°C and was still at 94°C ish after my cool down lap. I need to do some more research on how the trans cooler system works.[/QUOTE]
I left the factory trans cooler exactly as it was, unchanged. No reason to remove it. It may not get much airflow behind the bumper support where AMG mounted it, but it still radiates heat. I just had to add an abrasion buffer to part of the factory hardline where the aftermarket oversized main engine oil cooler wanted to contact it, as just enlargingvthe mounting holes for the oil cooler as suggested by the seller did not alleviate the potential interference. That is the only minor mod I made to the factory setup.
I added an aux cooler to the weistec pan ports and mounted it right behind the upper main grille in front of the PS cooler and radiator, because that's where it would get the most airflow to it. It has its own thermally switched pump. As mentioned it had no ill effects on water temp or PS fluid venting by mounting it in front of those as evidenced during the hardest use, SCCA 3 day TT event in 93° weather earlier this year where water temp and PS were un affected. You mentioned running the lines might be difficult but you can basically follow the path of the factory trans cooler hard lines.
Regarding rear mount, you will simply never get as much airflow from rear mount with fans as you will from 60-150mph track speeds through a front mount without fans.
The only trans cooler setups I have seen previous to doing mine are the Vath add on in-series cooler from the Nurburgring guy, and several rear mount setups that absolutely can't cool as efficiently as my front mount cooler. But those people seem to just do non-competitive track days with a few sessions at a time so it may be sufficient for their purposes.
One mistake people often make in cooling setups is they get a thin cooler that can squeeze into a narrow spot, but thickness (as well as cooler design) matters a lot when it comes to efficiency. That Vath cooler I saw was very thin especially for how expensive it was. Get a better quality cooler than that for track use, Setrab makes plenty of good ones.[/QUOTE]
Started getting some parts in for the trans cooler project. Gonna start assembly next weekend.
Setrab 25 row oil cooler w/ fan pack for street driving
Setrab oil pump
180 thermostat switch - Fan and pump will turn on at 180F
Oil Check Valve to avoid backflow
30/40 amp relay
Weistec Trans pan w/ -8AN hose and fittings
VRP SAI plates for SAI system delete
Today I replaced my rotors. I bought the 1 piece brembo rotors as for now as I'm keen to go for a 390mm black series conversation in the near future. From the "outside" my rotors looked alright, but the backside of the rotors was pretty worn-out. Is this normal? I've been running the giro disk pads for the last couple of year's.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
