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Word on the street is that the tri-y design serves FI applications best, we'll see about that. Installed new factory motor mounts, 02 sensors, exhaust manifold studs/fasteners/clamps during this process.
Removal *CENTER STEERING WHEEL *DISCONNECT BATTERY (SO YOU DONT ARC THE STARTER)
*1/4 SWIVEL WRATCHET/ MINI WRATCHET/ MINI EXTENSION/ DEEP SOCKET 11MM TO REMOVE EXHAUST MANIFOLD NUTS *PB BLAST ALL EXHAUST/ EXHAUST MANIFOLD FASTNERS GENEROUSLY
*REMOVE UNDERTRAYS 8MM/ CHASSIS BRACE/ 02 SENSORS/ EXHAUST/ EXHAUST SUPPORT BRACKETS
*MARK ORIGINAL STEERING COLUMN SHAFT POSITION THEN DISCONNECT/ TUCK STEERING COLUMN SHAFT ASIDE
*LOWER/SUPPORT STEERING RACK ASSEMBLY
*REMOVE STOCK MANIFOLDS
*SUPPORT MOTOR/ REMOVE MOTOR MOUNTS/ RAISE MOTOR HIGH ENOUGH FOR LONG TUBES TO CLEAR
Install *EQUIP YOURSELF WITH ALL THE 11MM WRENCHES YOU HAVE AVAILABLE (PREFERABLY GEAR WRENCHES) *NEW EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUDS/ OEM MANIFOLD GASKETS ONLY (DISCARD VRP GASKETS UNLESS YOU WANT AN EXHAUST LEAK SOON)
*ENSURE GASKETS ARE ALIGNED IN THE PROPER STUDS *CAREFULLY SNAKE LONG TUBES UP INTO STUDS/ EVENLY TORQUE FASTENERS IN COPACETIC ORDER
*REINSTALL MOTOR MOUNTS IN CORRECT ORIENTATION WHILE LOWERING THE ENGINE SO MOTOR MOUNT BRACKET WINDOW ALIGNS WITH MOTOR MOUNT DOWELS/ SECURE TOP & BOTTOM MOUNT FASTNERS *REINSTALL STEERING RACK ASSEMBLY/ STEERING SHAFT COULMN
*REINSTALL EXHAUST/ CLAMPS *INSTALL 02 SENSORS/ UTILIZE 02 EXTENDERS FOR DOWNSTREAM SENSORS ON BOTH BANKS TO BYPASS CEL *DISCARD FACTORY EXHAUST SUPPORT BRACKETS/ CHASSIS BRACE/ UNDER TRAY (NO CLEARANCE) *LET THAT COLD START RIP & ENSURE THEY'RE NO EXHAUST LEAKS BY HAND
*RETORQUE EXHAUST MANIFOLDS FASTENERS/ EXHAUST HARDWARE ONCE AGAIN AFTER A FEW HEATED CYCLES
After thoughts Craftsmanship is second to none. All components fit snug like a glove, zero alignment or leaking issues. Unmolested factory exhaust directly bolts on without any modifications; exhaust tips remain centered. VRP has this revision down to a T. Needless to say you'll now hear me before you see me.
Oil Change/ Coolant Flush/ Power Steering Reservoir
Dealer claimed they changed the fluids, but we've all heard that before now haven't we. Fluids overdue with the least to say.
Oil Change. We can agree to disagree which oil is best but when in doubt use original manufacturer recommendation *REMOVE UNDERTRAY 8MM *REMOVE DRIVER SIDE SUMP DRAIN PLUG 13MM (REMOVE OIL COOLER DRAIN PLUG FOR ADDITIONAL 1/2-1 QUART DEPENDING ON LEVEL SURFACE)
*INSTALL NEW COPPER CRUSH WASHER/ DRAIN PLUG (HAND TIGHT ONLY)
*REINSTALL UNDERTRAYS
*REMOVE OIL FILTER HOUSING 32MM/ GENTLY PICK OUT ALL 3 O RINGS
*INSTALL NEW O RINGS & FILTER (HAND TIGHT ONLY)
*FILL 8 1/2 QUARTS THEN FIRE UP FOR 1' AND TURN OFF ENGINE FOR 2'
*VERIFY OIL LEVEL ON LEVELED SURFACE AND TOP OFF ACCORDINGLY PER DIP STICK
Coolant Flush. Factory 325 coolant mixed with distilled water. Roughly 11.5-12~L including crankcase flush. Driver/Passenger crank case plug locations below *REMOVE COOLANT RESERVOIR CAP TO ALLEVIATE PRESSURE *CAREFULLY TURN RED RADIATOR DRAIN PLUG COUNTERCLOCKWISE *REMOVE DRIVER/PASSENGER SIDE CRANKCASE BLOCK PLUGS 6MM ALLEN TO FULLY DRAIN THE SYSTEM (ADDITIONAL 1/2~ QUART PER SIDE)
*FILL RESERVOIR WITH DISTILLED WATER UNTIL THE STREAM IS CLEAR
*CAREFULLY TIGHTEN RED RADIATOR DRAIN PLUG CLOCKWISE
*DILUTE COOLANT WITH DISTILLED WATER AND FILL ACCORDINGLY
*ALLOW ONE HEAT CYCLE (ONCE COOL TOP OFF COOLANT RESERVOIR LEVEL)
*SYSTEM WILL BLEED ITSELF AFTER A FEW HEATCYCLES
Power Steering Reservoir. Despite mileage inspect/replace your reservoir and fluid periodically or it can very well lead to cavitation issues possibly jeopardizing your rack and pump. Built in filter clogs overtime, 4th photo courtesy of zenman63. *EVACUATE POWER STEERING FLUID *MOVE SURROUNDING VACUUM LINES AND HOSES ASIDE TO CLEAR SPACE TO REMOVE RESERVOIR *REMOVE AND SUPPORT POWER STEERINGLINE UPWARDS TO PREVENT LEAKS (REPLACE FACTORY CLAMP WITH 1/4 WORM DRIVE CLAMP)
*REMOVE FASTENER/ UNCLIP RESERVOIR BEING MINDFUL NOT TO SPILL ANY RESIDUE *INSTALL NEW RESERVOIR IN REVERSE ORDER (SECURE WORM DRIVE CLAMP AND HOUSING FASTENER)
*FILL RESERVOIR WITH CHF 11S
*TURN ON ENGINE AND FULLY CLOCK THE STEERING WHEEL LEFT AND RIGHT A FEW TIMES *SHUT OFF ENGINE/ EVACUATE FLUID AND THEN FILL IT ONCE MORE (REPEAT THIS PROCESS UNTIL FLUID IS CLEAR WITH NO CAVITATION) *VERIFY FLUID LEVEL AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE PER DIP STICK (ENSURE IT DOESN'T READ OVER HOT MAX AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE)
Original gaskets are now seeping and is the only leak weeping I'm aware of at the moment, shockingly the rear main is leak free. Took the opportunity to inspect the valvetrain, no notorious cam shaft wear "yet" failed to find any loose fasteners or anything out of the ordinary. Not completely out of the woods just yet as the head bolts are the original Russian Roulette design. *DISCONNECT BOTH MAF SENSORS *REMOVE INTAKES/ AIRBOXES/ ENGINE COVER/ *DISCONNECT/ REMOVE HARNESS AND COILS TORX 30 *UNCLIP COIL HARNESS FROM VALVE COVER *REMOVE THE BRACKET TOWARDS THE FRONT OF THE CYLINDER HEAD SECURING THE COIL LOOM (ONCE REMOVED YOU'LL HAVE ENOUGH SLACK TO TUCK ENTIRE COIL HARNESS ASIDE OR BELOW THE VALVE COVER) *REMOVE VALVE COVER BOLTS AND VALVE COVER (ENSURE NOT TO FLIP DIRTY VALVE COVER THE OTHER WAY AROUND WHILE REMOVING IT) *REMOVE GASKET/ CLEAN VALVE COVER AND CYLINDER HEAD SURFACE TO ENSURE PROPER SEAL *INSPECT CAMS/ ACTUATORS/ AND ANYTHING ELSE OUT OF THE ORDINARY (ENSURE ALL VALVETRAIN FASTENERS AREN'T LOOSE) *CAREFULLY MANEUVER AND INSTALL VALVE COVER (USE MIRROR AND DOUBLE CHECK THAT GASKET IS STILL IN PLACE OR IF ANYTHING ELSE ISN'T PINCHED IN BETWEEN) *SECURE VALVE COVER BOLTS IN COPACETIC ORDER BY HAND ONLY (TRIPLE CHECK THAT NOTHING GOT PINCHED WITH MIRROR) *REINSTALL IN REVERSE ORDER AND REPEAT ON PASSENGER SIDE (LESS INVOLVED SIDE)
Oil Cap. It appears that the original owner or dealer broke the oil cap free with a socket and created a stress crack from all the tension upon removal. OEM replacement. I think it's safe to say I own a leak free C63 for now *REMOVE AND REPLACE BY HAND ONLY
Oil Dip Stick. Original dip stick didn't seal/seat properly for some peculiar reason, possibly due to missing collar? New dip stick literally clicks in now. Moved heaven and earth to obtain the last two factory dip sticks in the country, not a single one left in Germany; officially discontinued.
2012 P31 C63 Coupe Trackrat, 2019 GLE63S Coupe Beast
Not to steal their thunder or anything, but 63Motorsports is going to have dipsticks available at some point. So all is not lost if you can’t get your hands on the updated OEM one…
Originally placed an order for RennTech air boxes. However, John from RENNTech informed me that the manufacturer in Germany that produces them is still closed due to Covid restrictions and that they currently have an unknown ETA until they find another supplier. Meanwhile I'm going to pretend that these European spec boxes are worth mentioning over factory U.S. airboxes. If anyone reading this and has a legit lead or source that wants to sell RENNTech air boxes, PM ME. *REMOVE STOCK AIRBOX FASTENERS AND STOCK LIDS
*DROP IN FILTERS/ ROW BOXES
*REINSTALL AND SECURE FASTENERS AND CLAMPS (BY HAND)
Afterthoughts STILL PRETENDING THEY'RE BETTER THAN FACTORY BOXES.
Acceleration is key on this journey so whether if it's 1/2 or 1.5 lbs lighter it must be done. Let the rotational mass reduction BEGIN *REMOVE FACTORY AIR INTAKES *UNCLIP FACTORY UPPER RADIATOR SHROUD/ TUCK HOOD RELEASE CABLE TOWARDS THE ENGINE *REMOVE UPPER RADIATOR SUPPORT FASTENERS 10MM *REMOVE UNDERTRAYS 8MM *REMOVE A/C LINE BRACKET BENEATH PASSENGER SIDE ATTACHED TO FAN SHROUD AND SET ASIDE (UNCLIP BOTH BOTTOM RADIATOR SHROUD TABS FROM FAN) *UNPLUG FAN CONTROL HARNESS FROM BENEATH DRIVER SIDE *RELEASE BOTH UPPER RADIATOR TABS AND VERY CAREFULLY GUIDE THE FAN UP AND OUT (BE VERY MINDFUL NOT TO LEAN ON THE COOLANT RESERVOIR LINE) *I REPEAT DO NO LEAN OR PUT PRESSURE ON THE COOLANT RESERVOIR LINE, EXTREMELY BRITTLE ESPECIALLY IF ORIGINAL (CAREFULLY REMOVE IT IF YOU DONT TRUST YOURSELF) *SWING TENSIONER 17MM COUNTERCLOCKWISE AND JAM A SMALL FLATHEAD IN THE HOLE RIGHT BENEATH THE TENSIONER PULLEY (SLOWLY RELEASE TENSION AND REMOVE WRATCHET TO ALLOW THE SCREWDRIVER TO HOLD THE TENSION NOW *REMOVE SERPENTINE BELT *REMOVE FACTORY CRANKSHAFT BOLT 27MM (MINI IMPACT GUN, ONCE CRANK BOLT BREAKS FREE IMMEDIATELY REMOVE IMPACT GUN AND FINISH REMOVING BY HAND SO YOU DONT BACK THE IMPACT INTO THE RADIATOR) *MASSAGE FACTORY CRANK SHAFT PULLEY OUT WITH TWO LARGE PRY BARS FROM BEHIND THE PULLEY (APPLY EVEN FORCE AND WALK IT OUT, SLOWLY BUT SURLEY; BE PATIENT) *CAREFULLY REMOVE FACTORY CRANK SHAFT PULLEY OUT *HIGHLIGHT/ MARK THE KEYWAY ON THE CRANKSHAFT. SINCE THE CRANK KEY IS RECESSED ON THE CRANKSHAFT IT MAY TAKE A FEW TIMES TO CENTER THE UPD PULLEY KEYWAY WINDOW WITH THE CRANK KEY (MIRROR AND FLASHLIGHT IS YOUR BEST FRIEND) ONCE YOU'RE 100% POSITIVE THE PULLEY WINDOW IS ALIGNED WITH THE CRANK KEYWAY INSTALL CRANK BOLT WITH BLUE LOC TITE AND SLOWLY DRIVE IT IN WITH WRATCHET UNTIL PULLEY BOTTOMS OUT. TORQUE CRANK BOLT TO 150 FT LBS + 1/4 TURN *TRIPLE CHECK PULLEY KEYWAY WINDOW AND CRANK KEYWAY ARE CENTERED/ BOTTOMED OUT *INSTALL NEW SERPENTINE BELT PER DIAGRAM *ONCE BELT IS ROUTED PROPERLY HOLD TENSIONER COUNTERCLOCKWISE WHILE REMOVING SCREWDRIVER TO RELEASE TENSION
*REINSTALL EVERYTHING IN REVERSE ORDER
*START ENGINE AND ENSURE NOTHING IS LOOSE, SHAKING, OR VIBRATING (MAKE SURE BELT ISN'T WALKING OFF ANY PULLEY)
Afterthoughts THROTTLE NOTICEABLY LIGHTER AND MUCH MORE RESPONSIVE. LESS EFFORT TO REV. TORQUE DELIVERY INCREASE PER BUTT DYNO. ZERO VIBRATIONS. FAVORITE MOD, THUS FAR.
Powder Coated factory wheels black chrome and wrapped the rears in 275/35/18 Toyo R888R's in the meantime until my custom wheels arrive. Daily street trim for the time being
Afterthoughts THIS BLACK CHROME HAS 4 DIFFERENT SHADES TO IT DEPENDING ON THE LIGHT. R888R REVISION LESS NOISER THAN PRODECESSOR R888'S. WILL REPORT 60FT' LATER TODAY
MOD#5. Motorsport Hardware 75mm Black Bullet Nose Race Stud Kit
Shaving and saving time in all aspects including prep time. Track is 2 hours~ away, simply not enough hours in the day to waste. *CHASE LUG THREADS THOROUGHLY SO THEY'RE CLEAN
*APPLY BLUE OR ORANGE LOC TITE TO RACE STUDS (HUB SIDE THREADS)
*TORQUE STUDS (5MM ALLEN) TO 25 FTLBS AND NUTS (19MM) TO 105FTLBS
Afterthoughts MOUNTING TIME 1' AT MOST PER TIRE INCLUDING TORQUE SEQUENCE. ZERO VIBRATIONS.
Although there is room for improvement these will be the first and last three passes on EC V7 91 **** gas tune in a full weight with the exception of a missing spare tire preface lift C63. R888R's consistently hooked and booked @25 PSI (Post burnout tire pressure) in 55° weather coupled with 86% Humidity. Next session 01/15/22
Even after cleaning all the airduct tunnels and replacing the cabin air filter the car still had an extremely fusty rancid odor, almost led to believe that it's inside the carpets or door cards. Figure I'd eradicate this odor for good before performing any interior weight reduction. After a few consistent cycles it eliminated 95% of this stench. Buddy went to town with his steam cleaner to decimate everything that's been trapped since 2008. Since I'm convinced the funk is gone it's time to delete the passenger/rear seats
Front Seat Removal
*DISCONNECT BATTERY *SLIDE SEAT COMPLETELY FORWARD *REMOVE BOTH REAR SEAT RAIL FASTENERS (E12 TORX) *SLIDE SEAT COMPLETELY BACKWARDS *REMOVE BOTH FRONT SEAT RAIL FASTENERS (E12 TORX) *REMOVE LOWER MOUNTING POINT SEATBELT TRIM PANEL *REMOVE T45 TORX FASTENER AND REMOVE SEAT BELT (ONCE SEAT IS REMOVED EXTEND SEATBELT TO SLIDER MOUNT HOLE AND SECURE) *LEAN SEAT BACK AND REMOVE AIRBAG CONNECTOR *CAREFULLY REMOVE SEAT ENSURING SLIDERS DON'T FUBAR ANYTHING ON THE WAY OUT (LAY FENDER COVER/BLANKET ON DOOR SILLS TO PREVENT ANY DAMAGE)
If she didn't have a drinking problem before she definitely does now. Official corn-fed diet has begun, occasionally gasoline to prevent ethanol gunk. Since alcohol consist of lower energy than octane and burns quicker it demands 30%~ + fuel which only requires bigger injectors in my case (This will vary depending on your application) Without saying too much E85 is a decent pump race gas (100-106 octane rating depending on season) with excellent cooling properties (a cooler engine is a happier engine, less heat equals less knock = more power) *REMOVE FUEL PUMP FUSE #23 AND CRANK UP TO 10" TO DEPRESSURIZE FUEL FEED LINE
*DISCONNECT BATTERY
*REMOVE ENGINE COVER, AIR INTAKE TUBES, AIRBOXES (DISCONNECT BOTH MAF SENSORS)
*REMOVE INTAKE MANIFOLD COLLECTOR (2 TABS, RELEASE ONE AT A TIME AND DISCONNECT VACUUM LINE)
*REMOVE FUEL RAIL FOAM
*PLACE RAGS BENEATH FUEL RAIL FEED VICINITY TO CATCH FUEL RESIDUE IN NEXT STEP
*DISCONNECT FUEL FEED LINE AND TUCK ASIDE (17MM)
*DISCONNECT FUEL INJECTOR CLIPS
*UNCLIP FUEL INJECTOR HARNESS ATTACHED TO FUEL RAIL
*SEPARATE REAR PLASTIC VACUUM LINE FROM RUBBER SECTION (BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL, APPLY WD40 INSIDE BEFORE WIGGLING OUT)
*DISCONNECT FUEL PRESSURE SENSOR PIGTAIL
*REMOVE ALL 4 TORX 30 FUEL RAIL FASTENERS (BY HAND ONLY)
*PULL UP FUEL RAIL ASSEMBLY CAREFULLY ONE SIDE AT A TIME (EMPTY ANY LEFTOVER FUEL RESIDUE)
*REMOVE INJECTOR CLIPS (REMEMBER CLIP ORIENTATION)
*REMOVE FACTORY INJECTORS (REMEMBER INJECTOR ORIENTATION)
*WD40 NEW TOP/BOTTOM INJECTOR O RINGS (INSTALL IN FUEL RAIL IN CORRECT ORIENTATION)
*INSTALL CLIPS IN CORRECTION ORIENTATION
*CLEAN INJECTOR MANIFOLD PORTS THOROUGHLY
*INSTALL ASSEMBLED FUEL RAIL ASSEMBLY EVENLY ENSURING ALL O RINGS ARE SEATED PROPERLY ON THE INJECTOR INTAKE PORTS (ONCE VERIFIED APPLY EVEN PRESSURE AND ENSURE FUEL RAIL IS SEATED ALL THE WAY DOWN
*SECURE FUEL RAIL FASTENERS (HAND TIGHT ONLY, MAGNESIUM INTAKE MANIFOLD IS BRITTLE)
*REINSTALL EVERYTHING IN REVERSE ORDER
*ROUTE/ TUCK FLEX FUEL KIT PER PICTURES
*CYCLE IGNITION A FEW TIMES TO PRIME FUEL SYSTEM
*START ENGINE AND INSPECT FOR LEAKS
630cc Injectors
Drop in 2007-2011 Porsche 911 injectors. VRP EV1 injector adapters allow these to plug and play into your factory harness. Minimize drivability/tuning issues by listening to your tuner's injector selection they're most familiar with for optimal results.
Afterthoughts
Expect 91/E85 data logs next track session
Custom Carbon Fiber Package#1
She's getting revamped inside out. This guy needs no introduction, Christmas came early from Poland. At first Matt's carbon fiber photo gallery had only aroused my curiosity but eventually seized my attention. Without saying too much @olszowa12 is like a Swiss army knife, just when I think I've seen it all he pops out with something else made of carbon fiber. Not only does he have his craft down to a T, but his customer service and turnaround time is like no other. If it's not carbon fiber, he can make it CF. Nothing but good things to say about him. In a nutshell If you're looking for first class quality carbon fiber interior/exterior trims including anything that might need to be sourced out of the U.S. your search ends here.
Door Card Trims
Palladium Silver Gloss Black Shift Knob/ Shifter/ Ashtray/ HVAC Trims
Dash Corner Trims
Gas Cap
Palladium Silver Affalterbach Hood Emblem
Afterthoughts
Suddenly I feel the need for more carbon fiber, to the point where it weighs me down instead. On serious note little things make the biggest differences
Palladium Silver Affalterbach command infotainment aluminum scroll knob. Repaired/Upgraded the factory plastic shaft to aluminum; its sweet to scroll again.
Palladium silver stitched euro CF center console. @olszowa12 strikes again. Revamped inside out, like new. Can't stand chrome, especially peeling chrome cup holders. Chrome free Euro spec CF center console might be my favorite interior mod at the moment.
What else can I say, they complement the interior.
Front Door Pins *SIMPLY UNSCREW (COUNTERCLOCK WISE) FACTORY PINS AND THREAD IN AMG PINS (CLOCKWISE)
*ADJUST HEIGHT TO YOUR PERSONAL PREFERENCE
Rear Door Pins *REMOVE REAR DOOR CARD (REAR PINS REQUIRE TO BE CAREFULLY PULLED OFF) *REMOVE (2) CENTER TORX 30 FASTENERS *UTILIZE PANEL POPPER TO RELEASE ALL 8 PRESSURE CLIPS (START FROM THE REAR AND WORK YOUR WAY TOWARDS THE FRONT)
*LIFT DOOR CARD UP AND OUT JUST ENOUGH TO VISUALIZE
*SUPPORT DOOR CARD *PULL BACK DOOR LATCH CABLE AND LIFT UP (LIFT CABLE UP OUT OF DOOR LATCH CLIP) *REMOVE BOTH SWITCH CONNECTORS (BLUE AND PURPLE) *SQUEEZE BOTH BOTTOM DOOR PIN TABS TO RELEASE DOOR PIN *GRIP DOOR PIN TABS WITH ONE HAND IN A STATIONARY POSITION AND GRIP BOTTOM OR SHOULDER OF THE FACTORY PIN WITH SLIP JOINT PLIERS OR VISE GRIP AND PULL-OUT FACTORY PIN *ADD A DAB OF RTV TO DOOR PIN STEM AND PUSH NEW PIN ON WHILE APPLYING PRESSURE FOR 1' (IF YOU DON'T RTV THE STEM THEY WILL EVENTUALLY SHOOT OUT AFTER A FEW UNLOCKING CYCLES; ASK ME HOW I KNOW) *REINSTALL IN REVERSE ORDER *ALLOW RTV IN REAR PINS TO DRY/SETTLE FOR A FEW HOURS BEFORE UNLOCKING
MOD#11. Carbon Fiber Folding Euro Spec 2012-15 Face Lift Mirrors
Carbon Fiber Folding Euro Spec (2012-15) Mirrors. Yes, CF mirrors were an option at the dealer @olszowa12 Moved heaven and earth once again to obtain my spec (heated, folding, convex, lane assist in the future). Fun fact: Majority of 2008 models were only programmed with folding mirrors in the U.S. (Mirrors with folding motors are useless unless you program/command your model to utilize them) *REMOVE FRONT DOOR CARD ACCESS PANEL (BELOW TWEETER COVER) *UNPLUG BOTH MIRROR CONTROL CONNECTORS (BLACK, WHITE) *REMOVE TWEETER COVER AND CAREFULLY PULL-OUT TWEETER CONNECTOR
*GUIDE HARNESS OUT SO IT DOESN'T GET SNAGGED UPON MIRROR REMOVAL *REMOVE ALL 3 MIRROR FASTENERS TORX 25 (BY HAND ONLY)
*LIFT MIRROR UP TOWARDS YOU AND OUT (TAKE NOTE HOW MIRROR IS SEATED INSIDE UPPER/LOWER WEATHER STRIPS)
*ENSURE MIRRORS ARE SEATED INSIDE UPPER/LOWER WEATHER STRIPS PROPERLY BEFORE SECURING TORX 25 FASTENERS (THEY WILL NOT SEAT FLUSH OTHERWISE)
Afterthoughts: No question about it facelift mirrors alone have revolutionized the front-end big time, not to mention ZERO BLINDSPOTS
Wow buddy you have cleaned out Europe of all CF one thinks🤣 Looks amazing and the time you took to place in the instructions, PDF’s and images simply lead me to believe you sir, are the man.
I do hope though - not to question the quality of the CF mirrors here because I do not know; that your CF mirror covers do not fade with time.
12-16-2021, 06:02 AM
