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Correct oil change procedure for 2017 or 2018 c63s
Can anyone please publish the MB official engine oil change procedures?
I understand that in addition to the main plastic drain plug next to the oil filter (which is not reusable), there is another plug towards the front of the car that needs to be removed and drained as well?
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-c63s-...2017-c63s.html
Look at this #2,#4 and#6
I suggest remove both drain plugs, for completely drain out old oil. But YOU NEED REPLACE COPPER WASHER if you do the front one, make sure you have one before you drain. part # for copper washer: N007603014106
Last edited by srO_Michael_Orz; Nov 27, 2017 at 09:11 AM.
Reason: N
https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-c63s-...2017-c63s.html
Look at this #2,#4 and#6
I suggest remove both drain plugs, for completely drain out old oil. But YOU NEED REPLACE COPPER WASHER if you do the front one, make sure you have one before you drain. part # for copper washer: N007603014106
Thanks for that info. Have couple questions: (1) Does removing engine compartment paneling underneath to get at filter and drain plug require any special tools? (2) Do you happen to have the part numbers for the plastic oil pan drain plug and the metal drain plug near Y130? Thanks.
Thanks for that info. Have couple questions: (1) Does removing engine compartment paneling underneath to get at filter and drain plug require any special tools? (2) Do you happen to have the part numbers for the plastic oil pan drain plug and the metal drain plug near Y130? Thanks.
1.No, normal tools.
2.Plastic drain plug #A0029902017, Technically you should discard old drain plug, but in reality plug could be reuse depends on condition. I suggest you reuse it, since it cost around $15.
3.Metal drain plug #N000908014009, 100% You do not need replace this one unless you screw it up.
1.No, normal tools.
2.Plastic drain plug #A0029902017, Technically you should discard old drain plug, but in reality plug could be reuse depends on condition. I suggest you reuse it, since it cost around $15.
3.Metal drain plug #N000908014009, 100% You do not need replace this one unless you screw it up.
My Wife just got a 2018 C63s and looking at the plastic oil drain plug it appears you can use a coin or something like that to remove it (it has a curved slot in it) is there a special tool or can I just use a screw driver?
My Wife just got a 2018 C63s and looking at the plastic oil drain plug it appears you can use a coin or something like that to remove it (it has a curved slot in it) is there a special tool or can I just use a screw driver?
Oh one other quick question - is there an oil life reset procedure? This thing has all types of different screens and I haven't found exactly where to go to/what screen to reset the oil life once I change it.
Just did my first at about 6,500 miles and 10.5 months
Drove car up on floor ramps so that front was about 5 more inches off the ground than the rear.
Exactly 10 quarts came out and 10 went back in. Dip Stick shows almost full after several different readings.
I did not drain the front plug by the oil pump valve, as others suggested, since I had 10 quarts come out of the main plug. My guess is that having the car on front ramps allowed the oil to drain back to the rear sump plug more easily.
Anyway, it was an easy job, but I wonder why they publish 9.5 quarts as the capacity?
Jacked up the car, put stands on both sides of the front, removed all the 8mm metal bolts holding the two under trays, set them aside then removed the plug and the filter housing last. Once I removed the plastic flathead drain plug and the oil filter housing I let it drain until the drips stopped. Changed the o ring on the filter housing, installed the new Oem filter, then reinstalled the plug and filter housing. Put in 9 quarts, started the car, checked for leaks, put the under trays back on and set the car back on the ground. Checked the dip stick and it was barely at the minimum mark. Added the remaining quart (10 total) then rechecked the level and it was 3/4 full on the dipstick. Perfect.
Total cost was $50 for two 5 quart jugs of Mobil1 0-40 synthetic euro formula and $16 for an Oem oil filter.
Do y'all reccomend changing the engine oil with the rear differential at 2K miles? 10K miles seems like a long time to have that break in oil running in the engine. I'm also asking because I have dp+tune scheduled shortly after the service so I'm wondering if I should have fresh oil for the dyno?
I also used ramps and did not mess with the front (metal) drain plug. Also, next time I will only remove the rear underside cover and back 4 bolts on metal front cover to gain access to filter and drain plug.
Does anyone know the outer diameter of the oil filter housing bolt (black plastic)? Someone mentioned 32mm which I have and is way too big. My largest traditional metric socket is 20mm and was too small. Thankfully the center core of the black plastic filter cover receives a 10mm hex bit (picture below)
Note: I had to jack up the car to get the ramps underneath the front tires as the front lip is too low to drive up normally. My 2018 has not been lowered. All the best. Thanks for the tips! Oil filter cover (black plastic) removed using 10mm Hex socket. Front metal drain plug (red) and rear (black plastic) drain plug near oil filter cover.
Originally Posted by ahesq
Just did my first at about 6,500 miles and 10.5 months
Drove car up on floor ramps so that front was about 5 more inches off the ground than the rear.
Exactly 10 quarts came out and 10 went back in. Dip Stick shows almost full after several different readings.
I did not drain the front plug by the oil pump valve, as others suggested, since I had 10 quarts come out of the main plug. My guess is that having the car on front ramps allowed the oil to drain back to the rear sump plug more easily.
Anyway, it was an easy job, but I wonder why they publish 9.5 quarts as the capacity?
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