Hey everybody , I was hoping somebody can help me out here . First let me establish a baseline. C63 coupe 3 years old first owner no mods for the first 3 years roughly 25k miles .
I recently had catless down pipes installed and the car was tuned via obd shortly after. (Thursday last week) Stage 2. After pushing the car for a few hours and really getting to like the burble etc. I felt that the car was satisfactory and went to bed that night. Woke up next day ready to drive , went and hit some canyons and pushed the car a little bit, I wouldn’t say exsessive pushing by no means at all, just standard hard driving (if that can even be measured). About 2 hours later I hear a blow off valve sound and car goes limp. After getting home and removing the new tune, I open the hood of the car to see a melted diverter valve hose specifically the PVC elbow that is attached to the diverter valve itself.



car continued to act strange without the tune, of course now it has a leak from the diverter valve . fast forward totoday (car hasn’t been able to go over 4K rpm without limp mode engaging for 4 days) I’ve stopped driving it and started inspecting the intake that melted slightly (It also melted the harness above the diverter valves a little bit) as well as inspecting the diverter valve itself upon removal of the intake I discover a destroyed turbo turbine and a bunch melted plastic fragments
a. Stuck to the walls of the turbo
b. Loose and inside the intake.


Melted plastic caked around turbine / grinded propeller

was curious if anybody has any idea what happened what could cause the turbo to get so hot it melted the diverter?

car has also thrown a code but I reset thinking it was the o2 sensor may have been a misfire as the car is definitely idleing very rough.

I take the car I. On Thursday for a diagnosis, I’m worried that the catless downpipes will give the service department ammunition to use against me and void my warranty . But hey thats a discussion for Friday haha. Thanks ahead of time

 

Duuude that is just plain bad. If you’re tuned with DP’s, they are 100% going to void your warranty.

 

Agreed.

​​​I feel for you on this one, that's going to get pricey. Keep us posted on how it goes regardless.

 

No idea how that could have happened but interested to know the outcome.

 

Just wierd man if I could figure out why that sh*t got so hot I may not even bring it in. Possible that I drove it too hard in 95 degree weather? We’re littersly talking about 24 hours of tune with like 10 hours of driving .

Think I can get away with taking the pipes off real quick, may be cheaper to do an emergency -revert to stock -than replace a whole turbo + bypass system
i used a my genius handheld tuner , can they see a record of my ecu flashes?
uh the agony -lol -worst case Scenario, heard Weistec or one of those guys got a good turbo upgrade deal , just worried to throw more at a car that couldn’t handle a tune

 

As far as I've heard from techs at Mercedes, THEY can't tell if it was tuned if it was reverted back to stock tune from a dealership level, but Mercedes corporate guys can if they do some sort of file dump, which they are likely to do with this sort of big dollar warranty claim. I'm also not sure you could remove the dp and revert to stock without signs of doing the dp install. Did you drop the trans to remove the cats or did you cut them out?
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Just because I'm curious, can you take a pic from a step back to see a whole view of the engine compartment all in one pic. I'm so lost to how this would even happen. The diverter valve isn't the valve that people replace with those vent to air valves, is it?

 

The trans was dropped but the pipes got cut in the end anayway, not sure why exactly but when I got there they were cut. Didn’t think much of it at the time, I had big plans .🤦🏻‍♂️



This is the only other pic I took During the day today
I will take more pics first thing in the morning . Car is in the dark driveway hard to see


yes the diverter valve is the piece people change to those vta (blow off ) adapters , which is why I’m so confused. I was about to install them later this week as well as an intake. started to wonder what would happen if I did, melt my radiator and fan assembly?
it had to be an extreme amount of heat , it melted a hole straight through plastic
is it possible for fire to shoot through the diverter valve?
Thanks for the input guys 🙏🏻

 

Sadly with the cats cut there is no way to sneak that one through warranty, not that the cats were the only tell tale Definitely interested in hearing how on earth this happened, especially so close to dp and tune since that's what I'm doing next. Hopefully some guys with more knowledge than I will chime in.

 

I know this is a long shot, but I do have a “guy” on the inside over at the dealer lol , he did help a buddy at one time warranty melted Intercooler or something like that from a tune. Unfortunately at the time I was stock with no interest in modding this car. So I paid no mind. this is why I’m waiting till Thursday, he told me he’d do his best. I understand the magnitude of this versus that. But still a long shot is a shot and as of right now, I’ll take any shot I can get.
Anybody in SoCal know where I can get my tune file analyzed . I’d like to think that the answer lies somewhere there .
Also, what about a Xentry scan , should that show me some past events of the turbo/engine
I guess I’d like to get to the bottom of it more than anything regardless of a warranty claim or not. Unless I plan on trading the car in, it seems as if ima have to fix this one way or another

 

The stock diverter valves are a bit crap
The top unit is stock , there is no O-Ring that seals against the boost pressure just the interference fit of the plastic sleeve inside the hole.
Below you’ll see the Turbosmart replacement items I put in. My boost curve smoothed out a lot in my logs after fitting these.
Your case is interesting as although the factory items are junk for anything above stock I would never have expected this type of failure from them. I can only assume there is an issue with the valve electrically which caused it stick open and over heat.Did you remove the diverter valve?
Do you have a detailed code read out?

 

Just curious who was the tuner ?

 

Yikes, that's horrible. Who is your tuner?

 

Until I have somebody else more experienced look at the car tmrw I rather not publicly say the tuner , as this may not be his fault . If your itching to know just pm me I’ll happily tell you.

and I never got a the code unfortunately I reset it by accident before I I could right it down. Turbos spins freely and there is no shaft play, may just clean it up and fix the broken pieces to see if it helps at all. Car runs smoothly except for the occasional misfire . But with no codes I believe it could just be a vacuum leak from the diverter valve. And that should be a cheap enough fix . I can always have the turbo rebuilt for a fair price it is just the one that is damaged .

 

 

Is that the part you ordered from Turbo-smart? TS-0203-1267 ...it says for C63 M178?

 

OP...I feel for you man and I hope this all works out as cheaply as possible for you.

I recently had Weistec catless DP's installed (tranny was dropped and stock DP's are in tact) along with their stage 2 tune and BMC filters.
My concern with going tuned was always things like this and feel for you

Not sure of what your goals are for your car or your financial situation but maybe its time for bigger (new) Turbos??? Just saying...Again wish you the best.

 

I am wondering how does the diverter valve pieces go into the turbo? Isn't that part releasing air which means it would get "pushed" into the air filter box via the recirculation tube where your air filter would have stop the debris from being sucked in again by the turbo?

 

Pretty sure Mercedes calls it a bypass control valve as in it bypasses the filter( don’t take my word for it that’s just wat it’s called ) and goes direct to the turbo
if you pop the hood of your car you will see that the recirculating tube is after the filter

i only know this because if you search for diverter valve only aftermarket comes Up took a lot of digging to find and eventually just had to pull the part number

 

Update, cleaned the turbo, got the melted fitting off, the whole internal is melted , may be more in depths than I thought, still have yet to located the Original part that actually melted(where it all started to break apart ). It goes deep in there lol. With some figuring around I put a mcgivered plug on the diverter valve hole and eureka! Car has a nice smooth idle . Pull theplug out and it starts to be rough again . Gunna take some more stuff off see how deep it goes and repack what I can. Hopefully the dealer tells me I’m good to go tmrw

 

 

You’ll need to pull out the complete bypass valve , it’s only one connecter and three fasteners. I’ve attached at picture of what it looks like with the part number for your reference

 

Thanks, yeah they have two version one with the recirculate air like OEM (1267) and the other vent-to-air to get that blow off sound (1067). You happy with the sound?

 

You hardly hear it over the turbos and exhaust,I would be surprised if it was louder than the stock items. I got it to fix boost leaks so not an issue for me

 

hey man thank you so much, i couldn’t find it for the life of me, all that was coming up was e63 valves or aftermarket valves. Just gunna take it to the dealer in the morning go from there . Thanks again

was wondering if I’m gunna need to upgrade valves
Intercoolers ect with an aggressive tune and other bolt in mods like an intake I am gunna upgrade the turbos this year also so I’m sure I have to do other upgrades for that but I’m really curious if upgradeing the cooling system is gunna be nesassary to run a super aggressive tune

again thank you everybody for their input I really appreciate it

 

How hot was your engine? It seems insane that the tubes would melt from just normal amg driving. I'd also talk to the tuner.