02 cl600 SDS question
10-29-2012, 05:09 PM
#1
02 cl600 SDS question
First off - newbie- so thank you for all of the information I read on this site. The folks here are very helpful and willing to share their ideas & training.
I have a 02 cl600 which I have owned since new. Only 16,500mi - I know it sits alot. I am starting to see body controller and ecu messages including; entry position do not drive, dropped cylinders etc. I assume I lost a coil pack or three but I need a better tool to help me with the diag. I have a complete shop and a background in street rods and engine management with OEM ecu's & recently EFILive for my Cummins.
I see this SDS add http://www.dhgate.com/mb-star-c3-pro...bdb2b7abd.html but I can't tell if that is a complete system (less the laptop) or if I should look elsewhere.
I would like all of the CAN bus diag tools I can get my hands on for this car since I am expecting other issues.
Feedback welcome.
Ed
I have a 02 cl600 which I have owned since new. Only 16,500mi - I know it sits alot. I am starting to see body controller and ecu messages including; entry position do not drive, dropped cylinders etc. I assume I lost a coil pack or three but I need a better tool to help me with the diag. I have a complete shop and a background in street rods and engine management with OEM ecu's & recently EFILive for my Cummins.
I see this SDS add http://www.dhgate.com/mb-star-c3-pro...bdb2b7abd.html but I can't tell if that is a complete system (less the laptop) or if I should look elsewhere.
I would like all of the CAN bus diag tools I can get my hands on for this car since I am expecting other issues.
Feedback welcome.
Ed
10-29-2012, 06:50 PM
#2
Super Moderator
Yes, that is the whole system (albeit it a Chinese knock off), minus the laptop.
New models are wireless from the MUX to the laptop, however I do not recommend the wireless Chines knock offs. I have had much better luck with the standard Type D MUX as the link you included shows.
New models are wireless from the MUX to the laptop, however I do not recommend the wireless Chines knock offs. I have had much better luck with the standard Type D MUX as the link you included shows.
10-29-2012, 07:31 PM
#3
Hi Adam,
Looking at the Chinese part vs the $1600 system from France (don't remember the vendor right now) is the higher priced system worth it? I am OK with a wired connection.
Looking at the Chinese part vs the $1600 system from France (don't remember the vendor right now) is the higher priced system worth it? I am OK with a wired connection.
10-29-2012, 07:37 PM
#4
Super Moderator
Thats a tough question to answer. There are so many different Chinese clones out there. Most are complete junk and simply burn out quickly. Some are slighty higher quality and last for a while.
On many, an incorrect voltage regulator is fitted which ends up frying the chips especially if used on 24v systems.
I used to have a good supplier of the high quality clones, but Mercedes finally put him out of business.
On many, an incorrect voltage regulator is fitted which ends up frying the chips especially if used on 24v systems.
I used to have a good supplier of the high quality clones, but Mercedes finally put him out of business.
08-29-2022, 04:56 PM
#6
Gremlins on the bus
As you see in my thread above I started having issues with my W215 in 2012. I garaged the car and have not driven it since, have time now to attempt to diagnose the issue(s). Owned this car since new, 18,400m. I have a 2011 dated SDS with wired MUX, not a knockoff.
When the car sits in the garage overnight and I attempt to start it the next day the dash flashes, console switches and HVAC flash, cycle on and off and the key will not turn to On or Start. At this point basically none of the systems work, windows, door locks, wipers, only the headlights. Using my 2011 SDS I see several CAN bus/controller/SAM issues with active faults. If I play with the key in the ign., wiggle and turn, after 30min or so the key will turn to On but will not start the car. At this point the dash systems are still cycling off and on and the steering column is moving up to the exit position and back to drive position in small steps as if it gets and looses power every second or so.
After 45min to an hour the key will rotate and start the car. Some of the systems are now working but which of them works is not consistent. After I run the car for 30+min all systems are back (not my radio sound) and I am able to cycle the key on/off/on/start and they all work every time. When I run a diag. at this point there are lots (18-20) of stored faults but no current faults (see attached image).
The car will start, run, and drive, no faults, until it again sits again for >1hr then the process restarts.
I also replaced most fuses and cleaned all body ground mounts. The car has a new battery and I just installed 24 plugs, 2 [new] coils assemblies and a new coil driver - I am motivated to get it to a reliable point.
What component(s) can cause intermittent power supply to most of the vehicle systems then 'heal' itself once it is exercised/heated up? Relays? Other thoughts?
When the car sits in the garage overnight and I attempt to start it the next day the dash flashes, console switches and HVAC flash, cycle on and off and the key will not turn to On or Start. At this point basically none of the systems work, windows, door locks, wipers, only the headlights. Using my 2011 SDS I see several CAN bus/controller/SAM issues with active faults. If I play with the key in the ign., wiggle and turn, after 30min or so the key will turn to On but will not start the car. At this point the dash systems are still cycling off and on and the steering column is moving up to the exit position and back to drive position in small steps as if it gets and looses power every second or so.
After 45min to an hour the key will rotate and start the car. Some of the systems are now working but which of them works is not consistent. After I run the car for 30+min all systems are back (not my radio sound) and I am able to cycle the key on/off/on/start and they all work every time. When I run a diag. at this point there are lots (18-20) of stored faults but no current faults (see attached image).
The car will start, run, and drive, no faults, until it again sits again for >1hr then the process restarts.
I also replaced most fuses and cleaned all body ground mounts. The car has a new battery and I just installed 24 plugs, 2 [new] coils assemblies and a new coil driver - I am motivated to get it to a reliable point.
What component(s) can cause intermittent power supply to most of the vehicle systems then 'heal' itself once it is exercised/heated up? Relays? Other thoughts?
08-30-2022, 07:28 AM
#7
Super Member
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CL 600 '00 5.8L V12
Quite a long shot, but have you tried to replace the battery of your key?
I know that if the battery of the key is flat, the car provides power through the EIS, to prevent the car from not starting.
It might be that this system only works when you've recently started the car with the key.
I know that if the battery of the key is flat, the car provides power through the EIS, to prevent the car from not starting.
It might be that this system only works when you've recently started the car with the key.
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08-30-2022, 09:23 AM
#8
Thank you for the feedback. I have two keys and did replace the batteries in both - the CL behaves the same with either key.
After reading threads I am thinking this is a failing EIS. It is my understanding the EIS controls body systems including the dash and when the door is opened the dash should light up. 50% of the time my dash will light up but when I get in and close the door after a few seconds the dash will go dark. At this point if I open and close the door over a ~10 minute period the dash will eventually remain on. At that point I can fool with the key and as mentioned above other systems will start to light up, ABS, ETC, radio, HVAC, etc.
I will read up on replacing the EIS. Pointers as to how to code it welcome.
After reading threads I am thinking this is a failing EIS. It is my understanding the EIS controls body systems including the dash and when the door is opened the dash should light up. 50% of the time my dash will light up but when I get in and close the door after a few seconds the dash will go dark. At this point if I open and close the door over a ~10 minute period the dash will eventually remain on. At that point I can fool with the key and as mentioned above other systems will start to light up, ABS, ETC, radio, HVAC, etc.
I will read up on replacing the EIS. Pointers as to how to code it welcome.
