When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
so here is my A0995003603 full size radiator upgrade
result is, I have be stressing my turbos for about 40 minutes, I stopped
I touched the radiatior, warm (not hot) on left side, bodywarm on the right side. Just incredible in combination with a upgraded 150 pump.
The radiator from the 2014 S600 is a little to high, like 1 cm, you'll have to grind off a bit on the top and lower corners
also, you won't need brackets as the top metal plate holds the radiator perfectly
the engine radiatior's top will move back 1 cm so youll need to add rubber between and add a bolt on both sides to hold it as replacement of the two plastic clips
remember, this is not plug and play
radiator and parts need to be grinded and adapted a little !
To gain space above the radiator, you'll have to grind off all stuff on the plate interior
also, the left hood cable's plastic brackets have to be removed and you return the rubber just up here and place that cable inside, that does the job
Last edited by pmercury; Apr 20, 2017 at 02:11 PM.
I was wondering how you were going to get on fitting a large HE. Finding space for it is one thing. Getting it into that space is another thing. I fitted mine from below, but it looks like you fitted it from above.
Did you have to move the radiator back in order to get the top of the HE to fit behind the flange that turns down at the front of the top plate, that runs across the top of the radiator? I cut that flange instead, and bent it upwards.
I like the idea of fitting a proper heat exchanger, as the inlet & outlet are at the sides, instead of rear-facing. That makes it much easier to fit.
Did you have any problem with the bonnet latch hitting the HE core when the bonnet is closed? I had to move my latch forwards.
Hopefully you don't have any clearance problems with the small screws that secure the forward under-tray to the bottom radiator brackets. It's tight down there, and you don't want the screws to puncture the HE.
That's a nice job though. Sounds like you're happy with it.
was wondering how you were going to get on fitting a large HE. Finding space for it is one thing. Getting it into that space is another thing. I fitted mine from below, but it looks like you fitted it from above.
-fitted from above like charm
Did you have to move the radiator back in order to get the top of the HE to fit behind the flange that turns down at the front of the top plate, that runs across the top of the radiator? I cut that flange instead, and bent it upwards.
-nope, but the radiator moved back by itself as on the right side you unfortunatly have two alumium pipes on the airconditioner radiator
I like the idea of fitting a proper heat exchanger, as the inlet & outlet are at the sides, instead of rear-facing. That makes it much easier to fit.
Did you have any problem with the bonnet latch hitting the HE core when the bonnet is closed? I had to move my latch forwards.
-no problem at all
Hopefully you don't have any clearance problems with the small screws that secure the forward under-tray to the bottom radiator brackets. It's tight down there, and you don't want the screws to puncture the HE.
-nope, that was checked and once the new radiator installed nothing can move
That's a nice job though. Sounds like you're happy with it.
there is something I'll need to add tomorrow
as none of the plastic plates on the side of the radiators fitted anymore, I have to close that space with some custom
also the space now between the new radiator and the airco avaporator radiator
for those who don't know, all this is present to force the air to flow true the radiators
When you do this you should really double bleed
dunno if prefilling the full size radiator helps but I didn't do that
Next day I found a new intercooler intake air too hot
but that was because air remained
so I bleeded for about 2 hours today like a maniac and now everything is fine
you should finish bleeding with only the left bleeding valve open (standing front to the engine)
then activate pump with sort on/off's
on the end you can remain pump on
untill not even finest bubbles are presend anymore
make a 10 min pause once in a while
all this is longer with a piersburg cwa100 pump because of it's power
I also noticed that the vacum with air compressor tool is far to low vacuum
Just want to add these results:
with a outside temp of 15 Celsius, driving strong, not max
I came home and for the first time could put my hands on both intercoolers
they where body temp
I estimate the temp change from original radiator to this upgrade -65%
be careful to fill up the space on the sides between the newly installed radiator and the second airco radiator to prevent the air to escape
I am also going to add a second CWA-100.2 pierburg pump on the left side
pierburg 7.06754.05.0
also, after many engine temp tests, I confir'm
do not use the engine covers !
it cools your intercoolers better and engine is 10% cooler
I have tested this before with no good results, but with this new upgrade it really worth keeping the covers out of the engine
Just wondering what you meant by air compressor tool ? Do you mean a vacuum pump driven by compressed air, like the one MB use?
By electric vacuum pump, do you mean a rotary vane vacuum pump?
Having done a lot of IC bleeding over the last few years, I've largely come to the same conclusion.
Nick
Just wondering what you meant by air compressor tool ? Do you mean a vacuum pump driven by compressed air, like the one MB use?
< yes, you can built one yourself, look in my other posts
By electric vacuum pump, do you mean a rotary vane vacuum pump?
< yes a electric pump like this:
just one FACT: THERE IS NO WAY TO BLEED PROPERLY THE INTERCOOLERS WITHOUT VACUUM CIRCUIT !!!!
NO WAY ! so don't listen to any idiots pretending that in the forum
Yup, that's a generic Chinese single stage rotary vane vacuum pump, which is suitable for refrigeration evacuation and composites manufacture. It's a PROPER vacuum pump, and will achieve around 10 Pa vacuum, yet it's not expensive.
Atmospheric pressure is around 101300 Pa, so its deep vacuum - more than enough to make water boil at ambient temperature. When the water boils in the IC system, it displaces the air, so when you use your vacuum re-filler, there is no air left. None. Not even one percent.
By contrast, a compressed air vacuum pump will only achieve around 15000 to 20000 Pa, and that will only get MOST of the air out. No wonder MB mechanics say they have to use their kit over and over again.
Just wondering what you meant by air compressor tool ? Do you mean a vacuum pump driven by compressed air, like the one MB use?
< yes, you can built one yourself, look in my other posts
By electric vacuum pump, do you mean a rotary vane vacuum pump?
< yes a electric pump like this:
just one FACT: THERE IS NO WAY TO BLEED PROPERLY THE INTERCOOLERS WITHOUT VACUUM CIRCUIT !!!!
NO WAY ! so don't listen to any idiots pretending that in the forum
maybe I am one of the forum idiots , but I thought if you simply install an intercooler overflow you will never need to bleed the intercooler ?
The other possible upgrade from the W220 (or other recent turbocharged Mercedes) could be the full-height heat exchanger. I saw a picture of one of these and counted 66 rows.
Part No A0995003603
E / SL / CLS-class: A1975000103
It looked to me that bleeding would still be difficult, as the header still didn't have any bleed lines from the intercoolers.
However, it still enables level checking and topping up, which are very important.
I still think the only way to bleed these systems properly is with a vacuum re-filler and a rotary vane vacuum pump.
They get the vacuum down low enough to get literally ALL of the air out, and they cope with the water vapour. Not expensive either.
I think a header tank is necessary for any cooling system, but it doesn't facilitate bleeding in itself. Look at the engine cooling system. There are two bleed lines to the coolant reservoir - one from the highest point on the top, right hand corner or the engine radiator, and one from the highest point of the engine (the thermostat housing). That's how you do bleeding.
The IC system has none of that. There's a big air-lock in the HE. There's an air-lock in each IC. There's an air-lock in the return pipe to the HE inlet. None of these air-locks will be bled by the header tank, very useful though it is. In 2013 I spend day after day modifying, bleeding and testing and bleeding and testing my IC system. The flow rate is very sensitive to air in the system. Once you have a TINY bit of air in there, the pump churns it up into a froth (especially if you have anti-freeze) and that really chokes the flow. It took a huge amount of work just to get the flow up to a pathetic figure like 4gpm.
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
FULL size intercooler upgrade DY
