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working on my front brakes applying max pressure
the rear started leaking like HELL !
behind the rubber where it attaches the brake lines for the back, Corrosion on breakline !
+ this is behind the fuel pump cover no way ! I am shocked
could have died !
Please check this all of you
Last edited by pmercury; Apr 19, 2018 at 04:08 PM.
The use of compression fittings to repair brake lines, as shown in that video, is an unsafe practice. DO NOT DO THIS!
Brake lines must use correct flare fittings only at connections. Further, if you have corrosion bad enough to cause a leaking line, splicing out one spot is insufficient, as it will just fail again in another spot. Replace the entire line!
Last edited by Geraldius; Apr 20, 2018 at 11:40 AM.
The use of compression fittings to repair brake lines, as shown in that video, is an unsafe practice. DO NOT DO THIS!
Brake lines must use correct flare fittings only at connections. Further, if you have corrosion bad enough to cause a leaking line, splicing out one spot is insufficient, as it will just fail again in another spot. Replace the entire line!
this is incorrect information, I have spoken with a specialist and he said that this happens often but only where the line is trapped in rubber guides
using these connectors is professional, the only thing to look for is to use certified fittings and line DIN 74233 + 74234
this is incorrect information, I have spoken with a specialist and he said that this happens often but only where the line is trapped in rubber guides
using these connectors is professional, the only thing to look for is to use certified fittings and line DIN 74233 + 74234
Absolutely not! Compression fitting should never be used in brake lines. Period.They are not designed to work with the pressures possible in brake lines, nor are they designed to work properly with the brake line materials. You will find no authoritative source knowledgable in braking systems that will condone this. There is a good reason the automotive industry universally does not use them.
Happens on all cars when exposed to the elements. Worst case you only lose half your system, could be a problem on a very fast car like a CL, but the pedal will get spongy before it's completely blown. I've replaced rotted lines on all types of cars.
Repair fittings are one thing, but he's absolutely right, COMPRESSION fittings are not the correct type. Flare fittings only, compression fittings can pop off under severe load like panic braking, which would be disastrous.
Happens on all cars when exposed to the elements. Worst case you only lose half your system, could be a problem on a very fast car like a CL, but the pedal will get spongy before it's completely blown. I've replaced rotted lines on all types of cars.
Repair fittings are one thing, but he's absolutely right, COMPRESSION fittings are not the correct type. Flare fittings only, compression fittings can pop off under severe load like panic braking, which would be disastrous.
thx Joe,
I was talking about Flare fittings in my mind
it was my fault actually
I didn't see the first video did a repair with compression crap
I posted that just to show that that kind of line corrosion happens not only to Benz cars and me, I didn't watch the repair
and there is no need to replace the entire lines as very difficult to place sometimes
I always Blackson them all ... but not behind the rubber guides. untill now
I see the same issue on metal fuel lines on some cars, they rust through and fail only where they sit in the clips that hold them to the body, so I end up just replacing the section rather than the whole line, if the customer doens't want to throw the money at it to do the whole thing.
I hate doing brake line repairs, I'm very OCD and it's hard to make them look perfect and i don't like them less than perfect.
I do a section because all the lines are in great shape and working on my brakes
and double spal pusher fans since I managed to add another 50HP to my 712
I ended up to rebuild the whole back sections from the fuel pump to the rear wheels
the corrosion is there because no protection panels are there
I repaired a section and twisted the rest a bit and under every place holding the pipe it was rotten and started leaking
If you want to spend a day, go ahead and buy the MB oem steel line, you will have to drop the rear sub frame
If not, do like me and build your own lines
I've also started having a fuel leak from this same area. I had no idea, but when going for an alignment the tech said "you have a fuel leak". I was in disbelief until he showed me a slight drip of fuel from the fuel pump cover
be sure to check for fuel leaks in this area as well, a few drips isn't a huge deal but people often throw lit cigarettes out on the road behind them... and.. well you can guess the rest of the story
Warning indeed. Just developed this problem on my 2009 W204, 120K miles, otherwise mechanically perfect/well maintained. Dealer wants $6K to fix (car isn't worth $6K) because as above, they say the rear subframe has to be dropped. MB must be using sub quality brake lines on this car - I've had VWs and Fords and Hondas run out to 170K+ miles, never heard of a problem of a brake line corroding/rusting through. Other high mileage W204 owners take note. See the video below, the subframe does not have to be dropped to fix this problem - finding a shop who can do this is a different story.
I've also started having a fuel leak from this same area. I had no idea, but when going for an alignment the tech said "you have a fuel leak". I was in disbelief until he showed me a slight drip of fuel from the fuel pump cover
be sure to check for fuel leaks in this area as well, a few drips isn't a huge deal but people often throw lit cigarettes out on the road behind them... and.. well you can guess the rest of the story
When I got my first W215 I had to replace that whole area
all rusted
anyway, you should replace the filter there every 30000 miles, just a bit easy work
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Brakeline corrosion WARNING !!!
