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If you have a high mileage engine I recommend renewing your engine oil pump
they get lower pressure after hundreds thousands and if they ever fail, you are dead
cheap from ebay
there seems to be only one model since ever, so buy as low mileage as possible
very easy, just remove oil pan, unscrew the 3 pump bolts, push the chain tentioner a little up
reverse
I was so disappointed that there still is no real method to wash out all the oil crap to try and get rid of the black oil crap in the crankcase
and having those weird oil smoke things and sometimes a click driver side that that was my last "easy" attempt to try something
I waited until I found a low mileage recent pump and since this, never heard about smoke and click anymore
but even my friends said, "what did you do to your engine to have it run so smooth"
huh ? is that a coincidence or a miracle
there is no where in DAS neither DAS Dev to see engine oil pressure I know of .......
the only thing and changed also since all this rare mess stopped forever is, instead of refilling oil, when you measure it in dash, adding 1L of oil instaid of filling it up to MAX
what I mean is, when you measure in dash it says " add 2 L oil"
when it warns you it says " add 1 L"
I added only what the what the dash auto warn says
Again, I am not affirming something, I am just skeptical that the pump solved all this stuff
so if you try this too we could maybe affirm that it is not a miracle but one of the craziest new finds ever
or maybe not....
also, if you replace the pump, check the bolts Nm of the upper part bolted to the engine, you might find them a bit lose
BE CAREFUL when you buy a pump,
make sure the seller send you a recent pump with the MB benz number (LEFT on picture)
the RIGHT pump is the old pump can be with a hand engraved number (no Idea why) but for sure the OLD version
I also added a example of a wear point, and my pump had play
Remember this thread? I'm walking in your footsteps this time.
My engine is making a light rattling from the front end, and it's nothing that's driven by the belt.
It only rattles at idle speed, and disappears when I rev the engine slightly. The timing chain is oil pressure tensioned, and I suspect low oil pressure at idle, so I'm thinking about changing the pump.
I took the lower sump off, and saw the pump. I know the pump drive chain is only spring tensioned, so I was a bit surprised to find the tension was light. The chain wasn't slack, but it moved surprisingly easily, with a gentle push.
How did you find the tension in the oil pump drive chain? Did the tension seem tight or did it seem loose?
Remember this thread? I'm walking in your footsteps this time.
My engine is making a light rattling from the front end, and it's nothing that's driven by the belt.
It only rattles at idle speed, and disappears when I rev the engine slightly. The timing chain is oil pressure tensioned, and I suspect low oil pressure at idle, so I'm thinking about changing the pump.
I took the lower sump off, and saw the pump. I know the pump drive chain is only spring tensioned, so I was a bit surprised to find the tension was light. The chain wasn't slack, but it moved surprisingly easily, with a gentle push.
How did you find the tension in the oil pump drive chain? Did the tension seem tight or did it seem loose?
Were you able to replace the oil pump chain from underneath the car? I think my oil pump chain is hitting the timing cover. I am considering changing the pump and and chain but I am not sure if I can do that underneath the car. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Were you able to replace the oil pump chain from underneath the car? I think my oil pump chain is hitting the timing cover. I am considering changing the pump and and chain but I am not sure if I can do that underneath the car. Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Thank you. Chain tensioner can also be replaced from underneath right? StarvingArtist indicated that you can't get to oil pump chain and the tensioner when you take the subframe and oil pan out..
Thank you. Chain tensioner can also be replaced from underneath right? StarvingArtist indicated that you can't get to oil pump chain and the tensioner when you take the subframe and oil pan out..
Once its shut off, it going to bleed back so that test isn't very realistic as the engine has been sitting on the floor for some time. There is a plastic bleed valve on the top of the pump that I have replaced on both cars. These can leak back and also even come apart like my C320 engine - I found bits of it in the screen chamber. My pump is from a C32 sedat so the pickup is on the back of the pan unlie your application - UNLESS, I'm wrong you seem to have a dual stage - front and rear? Please explain?
Thanks for your help.
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get nice oil pressure back
