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All this started with the great user BayArchitect who added a post on one of my conversion articles
I was curious because after all the mods I have done and created there was 1 thing that never was perfect
The front control arms.
I have always suspected them not to be working correctly anymore after suspension conversion.
So I got in contact with David Green from http://www.syncrodesignworks.com to build me a custom pair for a test.
The people from syncrodesignworks are super kind and today I received them.
I am not saying the the OEM arm is crap ( mmmm maybe it is... ) but simply that the OEM control arms DO NOT WORK correctly after suspension conversion
I always had weird noises and cracks , bought 3 pair of arms and modded and re-modded, nothing worked.
Today, let me announce you that I found the Holy Graal again.
All noises are gone, steering is precise, even better, at high speeds even more impressive
Guys this is the MUST HAVE 2019 !
Watch the difference between a piece of rubber and a ball contol arm
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Read my posts before you go into the wrong direction with DAS / Xentry Diagnostics
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Last edited by pmercury; Jan 15, 2020 at 09:22 AM.
I agree about the noises. Every time I fix something, Within a few days there’s a new creak or click noise from the front suspension
what is really so much better about these pieces? Can you describe in more detail
one thing I’m not sure of, looks like there’s less room for adjusting position, the old units have a slot shape for the bolt, the new ones seem to have just a hole with no room for adjustment? I assume an alignment should be done afterwards at the minimum
I can tell you by experience that the first thing I did when starting modding to get rid of the noises is deleting the setting
because the right setting is the middle one
look here
that helped a lot and if you follow Mercedes WIS, this is the only right position stock. if your other hardware is correct
but I was not satisfied, so I put new stock arms back.
It also has to do with lowering. I adjusted my car to lower but not crazy as if so you would hit all bumps
With the new syncrodesignworks.com the drive feels like new
I repeat, not much impressed me in terms of mod last year. this is just PERFECTION
and not crazy in terms of price at all
A friend messaged me yesterday and told me lots racing cars use this system
I have yet to install the v12 w220 control arms, so I don't have that issue
my recurring noise issue i have narrowed down to two culprits,
1. the set screws on the bottom of the strut (hex screws) mine do not stay tight no matter what. i've tried red threadlocker, and i'm at the point im about to strip out the set screws to get them tight.
my next stop is to remove the strut, drill out the hole and then tap it for a larger bolt
2. seems the ball joint on my lower control arm (where the strut attaches) has had the lubed washed out during a recent rain because they make very subtle creaking noises now
i bought cheap aftermarket lower control arms so this isn't too unexpected. I now have a set of higher quality aftermarket lower control arms from the v12 w220 that you mention. i think i've read that i need to buy a hyperdemic needle that can be used to inject grease into ball joints that otherwise don't have grease fittings? this is still a new concept to me regarding the needle and grease, so I'm still looking into it. I suspect my existing ball joints just need grease but they will be getting replaced anyways...
Last edited by ctravis595; Jun 26, 2019 at 12:58 PM.
I can tell you by experience that the first thing I did when starting modding to get rid of the noises is deleting the setting
because the right setting is the middle one
look here
that helped a lot and if you follow Mercedes WIS, this is the only right position stock. if your other hardware is correct
but I was not satisfied, so I put new stock arms back.
It also has to do with lowering. I adjusted my car to lower but not crazy as if so you would hit all bumps
With the new syncrodesignworks.com the drive feels like new
I repeat, not much impressed me in terms of mod last year. this is just PERFECTION
and not crazy in terms of price at all
A friend messaged me yesterday and told me lots racing cars use this system
while i believe your method of using the smaller pipe to reduce the size of the hole is very intuitive, i'm inclined to believe some of your noises may have been coming from the smaller pipe settling/unsettling inside of the control arm. i've not seen or tried this myself so i'm not sure how well it fits. the alternative is drilling out the subframe for the bigger bolts unfortunately? am i correct?
while i believe your method of using the smaller pipe to reduce the size of the hole is very intuitive, i'm inclined to believe some of your noises may have been coming from the smaller pipe settling/unsettling inside of the control arm. i've not seen or tried this myself so i'm not sure how well it fits. the alternative is drilling out the subframe for the bigger bolts unfortunately? am i correct?
So to summarize, i have a 2002 cl500 chassis/subframe
i've ordered the w220 v12 control arms for the sway bar swap
will the bigger v12 bolts fit my subframe and new control arms? im just unsure of how to proceed without going through trial and error process you have
So to summarize, i have a 2002 cl500 chassis/subframe
i've ordered the w220 v12 control arms for the sway bar swap
will the bigger v12 bolts fit my subframe and new control arms? im just unsure of how to proceed without going through trial and error process you have
sorry I didn't figured out what you where talking about
I used a piece of pipe you can find anywhere with the correct size, just hammer it in in middle position
other options are:
1 get oem bolts WITH settings for W220, then you will be able to ajust camber cast
2 get oem bolts WITHOUT setting possibility, these only work on middle "stock " position. then bore out your sub frame (cons: no return back)
I just remind you that the "settings bolts" are not stock but for dealer to rectify problems ONLY
holy crap, now i finally understand the "camber adjustment bolts" you can get from Mercedes/etc
the two slots on each side of the bolt are for the settings you mention..
see, i always thought if you turned them sideways you could get an extra 1/16" of adjusutment and always wondered how these adjustment bolts were even worth the money to get such a small increase of adjustment
now i see the notches on the bolt are FOR the ridges inside the control arm bushing on the v12 arms, not sure if my v8 control arms have these "settings"
last question, will the v12 bolts fit my v8 subframe though? i know you mention boring out the subframe but seems the adjustment bolts will fit my v12 control arms with my v8 subframe? i know this sounds confusing
Last edited by ctravis595; Jun 30, 2019 at 02:58 PM.
I’ll have to add them to my wishlist, looks like they will be $600+ based on the price of their pair for w220. I just expended my wishlist funds doing other mods
I’ll have to add them to my wishlist, looks like they will be $600+ based on the price of their pair for w220. I just expended my wishlist funds doing other mods
there is always something to buy. it's a never ending story
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The Must Have award 2019 ! control arms upgrade
