Dr Matt

Getting my car sorted out and ready for the track Memorial weekend. Finally had time to finish putting in my Quaife LSD today and did some driving. Now that the car is making boost like it should I switched my Aeroforce gauge from showing boost on the display to showing timing and IAT's. I observed IAT's in the 150-160* range with normal driving, not getting in to boost, mix of highway and stop & go traffic. It was only 70* out today and I was never stopped for even a minute during the drive.

My question is, are these normal temps for a CL65 with no cooling mods?

I know the intercooler pump is running as one of my mods was to rewire it so it runs whenever the car is on and I checked after the mod and it is running. The pump was replaced at the dealer by the PO last year so it is not the original pump. These are pretty high temps compared to what I was used to with my lightning even though it made 20#'s of boost and around 620/685 RWHP/TQ on my street tune. Wondering if the system was not filled properly or if these are just normal CL 65 temps...

Grip Grip

I think you need a new pump based on what I've just read. The car cuts boost as the IAT's climb (but I'm sure you know this). Anyway, I stay around 55F over ambiant in mine and had a max air temp of 163F today on my 11.51 run and it was 60F outside.

TwinTurboTim

Mine wasnt properly bleed when I got mine. If you can get it to run and no the pump works try bleeding it.

Welwynnick

Yup, bleeding the IC system is extremely important. Even if the pump is healthy, if there's air in the system, the pump output will be very low, and the coolant will turned to foam.

Nick

shardul

iTrader: (1)

Pressure bleeder is the only way to get all the air out from the system

TwinTurboTim

I had a funnel that attatched to the filler neck that held a gallon then I ran 2 hoses from the bleeders into it and let in run for a while. If I can remember correctly the pump was air locked though so I had remove a hose until fluid started coming out of it to get the water to actually flow. Once it started pumping though it worked great. My IAT are pretty close to ambient temp.

Grip Grip

There's a pertty good writeup over on another forum on bleeding the system. The guy used a plastic bottle to purge the air. I can share the link if anyone wants it.

Grip Grip

How close to ambient are you seeing?

Dr Matt

I'll give the "funnel & hose" bleeding technique a try. Still need to install my line lock today so I'll be ready for next weekend at the track as well. Still waiting on my 18" rims so not going to hook on Continental DW's like I could on MT's, but I'd like to see some good trap speeds.

TwinTurboTim

Within a few degrees when cruising and around town. Cant remember every looking though when I get on it.

Grip Grip

WOW! I was thinking 50F over ambient was the norm and you're within a few degrees. Are you running a sleeper Killer Chiller or stock?

TwinTurboTim

Just a CM30 pump, otherwise stock. Like I said though no idea on what it is under boost. I just dont remember ever looking. I do though remember when mine was air locked and I also saw the exact same high temps as yours. Thats the only reason I have the CM30 in mine. I actually figured out that my stock pump worked after the fact that I installed the CM30.

Dr Matt

Bled it, didn't get much air out with the method above, but it is a lot better. Pump is definitely running strong. Tested the cap and it's not holding any pressure though. Temps are still hanging around 100-110* when it is 55* outside. Did a WOT blast to 115 up a steep hill and stayed below 130, then it cooled right back down to 100 when I slowed to a cruise which it didn't do before.

02cl55amg

My only cooling mod on my 65 was 5 gallon trunk res with a cm30 running as soon as I turned the key on. I logged my temps all the time, but never drove the car in temps over 80deg here in vegas. This mods def helps especially with a fresh bags of ice. Running in the winter(which avg daily temp is 60) at night intake temps would be under a 100(I wanna say 70-80) for about 30min of spirited driving. Pull into the garage and intercoolers would be cool to the touch. I thought these cars pulled timing when temps got to 140 as my 65 felt like **** when it got to these temps. But my 600 with no cooling mods and stock pump running a tune only is still pretty strong when it gets that high. I don't know why more people don't have there pumps wired to be running all the time. What I've expierienced, when they get to 140+ the party's over. It sucked at our track here as you would put in fresh Ice and then sit in line for 30min before your run.

shardul

iTrader: (1)

mine is wired to run all the time.

Dr Matt

I'll be adding a trunk mounted ice tank next winter, but this year my only cooling mod was the rewiring of the pump to run whenever the key is on or when I flip a toggle switch under the hood with the key off. Should help cool down between runs with a fan on the motor and one in front of the car with the pump running.

This is what I do to keep the charge cool when you never know how long you will be sitting in the staging lanes.

Get the motor and cooler cold with fans and the pump running all the time between rounds.
Before going to stage throw a couple frozed water bottles in the intercooler tank. (freeze a bottle, then cut/peel off the plastic before putting it in the tank)
Drive to the staging lanes and shut the car/truck off (raced my Lightning until I sold it and bought the CL) then open the hood and keep the hood open in the staging lane.
Right before you get to the front line of the staging lane, throw in two more frozen water botttles & close the hood. (My L's tank was under the hood)

This worked great for consistant temps in my L weather I was in the staging lane for 15 minutes or an hour. Probably have to use more ice in a hotter climate.

Flight Test

I have been data logging my IATs every day for quite sometime and I too see +50 degrees over ambient as the norm. After the cars heat sok it is really hard to get the temps back down. I do think alot of the indicated high heat is just from where the temp sensor is located in the intake manifold. It is screwed into a 200 degree chunk of aluminum. That is one of the reasons the temp drops 30 plus degrees when yoou hammer on it. It gets a nice big rush of air to break the boundry layer off the sensor.

But at the end of the day these cars produce a massive amount of heat, and having the intercoolers in the scalding engine compartment makes you know it was designed by a packaging engineer and not a thermodynamic engineer.

I have attached a couple datalogs if you care to compare to your data. These are just driving to and from work files and not WOT track files.

I file is from an 87 degree day and the other is a 64 degree day.
Check out that heat soak!

Dr Matt

That is close to what I am seeing on a 60* day. My temps climb a lot slower now that my pump runs right away on start up. I typically get to work with IAT's below 90* now as opposed to seeing them climb to over 100 by the time I get on the highway. Once I park and it gets heat soaked the temps take a long time to go back down as expected.