How many folks using their CL55, 65, 600's as a daily driver?
#1
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Thread Starter
How many folks using their CL55, 65, 600's as a daily driver?
Hi all, I'm looking at picking up a 03-06 CL55 and using it as a daily driver. Now that these fine cars are 12-15 years old, just wondering how many folks are using them today as daily drivers? Is it a "must" to have a backup car in case of downtime for repairs/maintenance?
I know the drivetrain is pretty much bulletproof it should handle the day to day grind. I live in California so no winter weather to worry about.
Cheers,
Ather
I know the drivetrain is pretty much bulletproof it should handle the day to day grind. I live in California so no winter weather to worry about.
Cheers,
Ather
#2
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E55, GLS450, GL63, GLE350
I did with my CL600 but it was very expensive to run as a daily driver with the stock ABC. Take away ABC and the car would have been relatively inexpensive to maintain. My SL600 has been more reliable but I did have to change the ABC pump a while back. Love the SL but miss the extra room in the CL.
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Ather (12-02-2018)
#3
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Not daily, but I drive my CL65 once a week when the weather is good. Need to keep them exercised. Unfortunately I can't drive it during winter when the temperature is below 40F, due to the summer-only Michelin PSS tires.
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Ather (12-02-2018)
#5
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Thread Starter
Thanks all for the responses. Sounds like it is doable and the main big ticket issue is the ABC system which needs regular maintenance. Aside from that, routine maintenance...
#6
I would drive my CL65 daily if I was able too. However, the places I have to park cause me not to drive it as much as I would like too. I'm always worried someone will ding/dent it or worse. My car has become a nice weather/safe area car. But I truly treasure every drive. It always ends with me having a BIG smile on my face!!
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Ather (12-03-2018)
#7
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I drive my 03 CL55 to work during the week. i really enjoy the power and sooth quiet ride. Going on one year soon and only had the Crank Position sensor fail. 25 dollar fix and seems common with these cars.
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Ather (12-04-2018)
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#8
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I alternated my 05 CL55 with my Ferrari as my daily driver. I had my CL for 10 years and never had any issues or problems, just normal maintenance. Best car I ever owned and I would highly recommend it as a daily driver.
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#9
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Mine has been converted to coil overs with S Class sway bars. FYI I know some people will disagree on this forum and I don't want this thread to go that route. I think it would help you if others can state if their cars have been converted. It will give you an idea of the percentage of swaps and the direction you want to go. If the car has a good maintenance record and low miles by all means keep the ABC. Mine was a goner from the start so it was easy to make the decision to swap. I would like to mention that the car is stock other than that and fuel mileage is about 15-17 MPG driving it fairly hard. I also have an SUV and a few other cars as back up. I haven't had to lean on them for that reason. Still my "Go-To" car is the CL.
Last edited by Puerto Rick; 12-06-2018 at 09:19 AM. Reason: Typo
#10
Member
I put 80K on my CL55 and averaged 13 miles to the gallon over that time span (according to the trip meter). Around town I would get 9 miles to the gallon. I would also need a new set of tires every 12000 miles and I used Michelin Super Sports. So in terms of gasoline and tires it is not cheap. Brakes and rotors also often require replacement and they are not cheap either. But those are small prices to pay for an E ticket ride at Disneyland. ![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Have fun.
![Smilie](https://mbworld.org/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Have fun.
Last edited by RonCL55; 12-06-2018 at 09:52 AM.
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Ather (12-08-2018)
#11
I drive my 03 CL55 everyday, from MA to PA and back each week for work, over 800 miles a week. Bought it 4 months ago with 57K and already have almost 68K on it, so ~10k in miles in 4 months. Spent the last few months bringing it up to service (new tires, new accumulators, new rotors and new trans mount and flex disc, Service B). Outside of the air locking system not working when the temps hit single digits, dead reliable. Still do to is an ABC flush, trans service and restore the headlights. It’s gets almost 22 mpg on the highway...amazing. Love this V2 missile!
Last edited by gregsgroup; 12-06-2018 at 06:08 PM.
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Ather (12-08-2018)
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Ather (12-08-2018)
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Ather (12-25-2018)
#18
Member
Sorry, i dont agree.
I have owned 6 Mercedes and currently own a Ferrari. There is absolutely no comparison in terms of the cost of maintenance and parts. A Ferrari is on a different planet in a galaxy far far away.
Try $1800 for a mirror adjuster knob on a Ferrari 612. Try ball joints and shocks that need to be replaced after 10,000 miles with a cost of shocks at $3000 per shock (not per set!). Many Ferraris require their timing belts to be replaced ever 4 years and you have to pull the engine to do it.
I am not complaining mind you, you just have to understand that there is no comparing the vehicles in terms of these costs. One is a high end production car with readily available parts while the other is a hand built exotic with a very limited supply of parts. Better to compare the costs of Toyota and Mercedes parts, with the Mercedes being only somewhat more expensive.
Also, my CL55 cost over 10 years of ownership probably about $3000 per year on average for parts and maintenance. About the cost of 1 Ferrari shock.
I have owned 6 Mercedes and currently own a Ferrari. There is absolutely no comparison in terms of the cost of maintenance and parts. A Ferrari is on a different planet in a galaxy far far away.
Try $1800 for a mirror adjuster knob on a Ferrari 612. Try ball joints and shocks that need to be replaced after 10,000 miles with a cost of shocks at $3000 per shock (not per set!). Many Ferraris require their timing belts to be replaced ever 4 years and you have to pull the engine to do it.
I am not complaining mind you, you just have to understand that there is no comparing the vehicles in terms of these costs. One is a high end production car with readily available parts while the other is a hand built exotic with a very limited supply of parts. Better to compare the costs of Toyota and Mercedes parts, with the Mercedes being only somewhat more expensive.
Also, my CL55 cost over 10 years of ownership probably about $3000 per year on average for parts and maintenance. About the cost of 1 Ferrari shock.
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#19
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One last point that anyone who is thinking of buying a CL must consider. While i found the CL to be highly reliable over 10 years of ownership, all of these cars are now 15 to 20 years old. They were highly engineered and had many, many parts that could break. They were not just an econo box with an engine, transmission, and rear end. So obviously over time they will cost more to maintain than an entry level Toyota because there are simply many more things to break.
Also, rubber and plastic degrade over time. So you have to expect that these items will need to be replaced due to age. In the last 10 years of my ownership i did find that more of these items did need to be replaced more than at the outset of ownership.
So if you are going to buy a CL do expect to have to replace things that wear and degrade over time. However, since it is a production car, these parts are readily available and I never found the costs to be that prohibitive. Also, for the cost of increased maintenance over a new car and at the price of an econobox, you are getting a car that the equivalent vehicle today can top out at over $200K. Also, the CL handles far better than today’s current S class, so that is an added plus.
However, if all you are looking for is a “reliable” car then this is not the car for you and you should buy a new Hyundai. My son has had one for 5 years. Extremely reliable and very cheap to maintain.
Also, rubber and plastic degrade over time. So you have to expect that these items will need to be replaced due to age. In the last 10 years of my ownership i did find that more of these items did need to be replaced more than at the outset of ownership.
So if you are going to buy a CL do expect to have to replace things that wear and degrade over time. However, since it is a production car, these parts are readily available and I never found the costs to be that prohibitive. Also, for the cost of increased maintenance over a new car and at the price of an econobox, you are getting a car that the equivalent vehicle today can top out at over $200K. Also, the CL handles far better than today’s current S class, so that is an added plus.
However, if all you are looking for is a “reliable” car then this is not the car for you and you should buy a new Hyundai. My son has had one for 5 years. Extremely reliable and very cheap to maintain.
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
2006 CL600. 50,000 Miles. I use it maybe 3 Months out of the entire year. It is basically a nice weather, date night, lovely night type of car. Maybe 4,000 miles a year if that.
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Ather (12-25-2018)
#21
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#22
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Thread Starter
Thanks RonCl55, this is good advice and I was thinking the same thing too about the wear and tear of rubber and plastic parts. I don't expect them to be "reliable" cars since these cars are approaching 12-15 years now and am willing to do my own repairs for the most part. I just love the look of these cars and performance capabilities and I'm not getting any younger ;-)
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RonCL55 (12-25-2018)
#23
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SL55 CL600 and 335D (rip flood) 325ci
I broke the rules and got a "cheap" 2003 CL600 to be my DD and dog car. Just under 8K with 100K miles. Well appointed designo Mocha Black on Black. Beautiful. Have about another 8K in it at least. Off the bat it needed the right side coil. I swapped them both as well as the VT. As I progressed I R&R'd the dampeners, both flex disks, ALL fluids, Both front struts with Arnott, trans mount, rear rotors, C02 sensor, both rear window regulators, a trunk hinge, and the trans conductor plate twice (long story) plus more I stuff forgot. The moral of the story is do not buy a cheap one, I'm one more story that proves the rule. There is a rule for a reason.
Records dealer service and garaged are worth every penny. Believe me. I bought a retired Euro techs set of snap on and matco tool boxes to deal with it. I'd say garaged is really number one. The mechanical stuff will just break over time. You will tell when a car has deferred maintenance and just say no to those, again unless you want to work on it to zen out. The plastic parts inside are the biggest PITA to me. Broken interior parts just look so low rent and as you DD the car a sun dried car will torture you.
I love driving this car. I bought it as a project and enjoy the time working on it. Unless you want to work on it constantly get the nicest one
Records dealer service and garaged are worth every penny. Believe me. I bought a retired Euro techs set of snap on and matco tool boxes to deal with it. I'd say garaged is really number one. The mechanical stuff will just break over time. You will tell when a car has deferred maintenance and just say no to those, again unless you want to work on it to zen out. The plastic parts inside are the biggest PITA to me. Broken interior parts just look so low rent and as you DD the car a sun dried car will torture you.
I love driving this car. I bought it as a project and enjoy the time working on it. Unless you want to work on it constantly get the nicest one
#24
MBWorld Fanatic!
I broke the rules and got a "cheap" 2003 CL600 to be my DD and dog car. Just under 8K with 100K miles. Well appointed designo Mocha Black on Black. Beautiful. Have about another 8K in it at least. Off the bat it needed the right side coil. I swapped them both as well as the VT. As I progressed I R&R'd the dampeners, both flex disks, ALL fluids, Both front struts with Arnott, trans mount, rear rotors, C02 sensor, both rear window regulators, a trunk hinge, and the trans conductor plate twice (long story) plus more I stuff forgot. The moral of the story is do not buy a cheap one, I'm one more story that proves the rule. There is a rule for a reason.
Records dealer service and garaged are worth every penny. Believe me. I bought a retired Euro techs set of snap on and matco tool boxes to deal with it. I'd say garaged is really number one. The mechanical stuff will just break over time. You will tell when a car has deferred maintenance and just say no to those, again unless you want to work on it to zen out. The plastic parts inside are the biggest PITA to me. Broken interior parts just look so low rent and as you DD the car a sun dried car will torture you.
I love driving this car. I bought it as a project and enjoy the time working on it. Unless you want to work on it constantly get the nicest one
Records dealer service and garaged are worth every penny. Believe me. I bought a retired Euro techs set of snap on and matco tool boxes to deal with it. I'd say garaged is really number one. The mechanical stuff will just break over time. You will tell when a car has deferred maintenance and just say no to those, again unless you want to work on it to zen out. The plastic parts inside are the biggest PITA to me. Broken interior parts just look so low rent and as you DD the car a sun dried car will torture you.
I love driving this car. I bought it as a project and enjoy the time working on it. Unless you want to work on it constantly get the nicest one
#25
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SL55 CL600 and 335D (rip flood) 325ci
I got the car when I lived in FL. Sort or Orlando area. Just did an auto trader search for CL65 to see what the market was doing. I can't recommend buying any car that isn't absolutely mint. I mean super super mint. Just isn't worth it. Mine just blew a hydraulic hose yesterday. It's non stop repairs and I'm stupidly over spent on the car. OP.. Get the nicest one. Do not get one thinking you will DD the car and not have major issues. Just the V12 oil leak issues that require the engine out to fix is a total loss IMO and it's a common issue. Unless you buy a CL55. All the best.
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Ather (12-31-2018)