Trans. Fixed -No More Limp Home!! Read if you have a 722.6
02-20-2007, 05:34 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Trans. Fixed -No More Limp Home!! Read if you have a 722.6
I may have just been lucky, but it looks like I beat this 722.607 (98 CLK 320) into submission. I went into limp-home (2nd gear only), with a P0730 ODB II code (generic scanner), which is an incorrect gear ratio detected. Pretty vague, and every SDS/dealer reset resulted in good shifting - for about 10 miles.
I'm not a tech, just a low-level DIY'er (fluid, brake changes, etc.). MB said I needed a new valve body - and quite likely a transmission as I have 140K. Two independents said the same thing - although they siad I would have to change the gear selector also (that box we all pay $400 for when someone spills a drink on the console), and no one wanted to pull the valve body and have a look at it (I didn't even know what a valve body was at this point). Declining the $8K trans. replacement, for my $8K car, I got an EPC subscription ($4 a month) and an alldata subscription ($25 a year). Plus I found a huge free Chrysler Crossfire shop manual online (posted the link earlier). The Crossfire has tthe same driveline as any '98-02 320, regardless of chassis. Obviously there are some changes between models, but it is a good start. More importantly, it uses the 722.6 trans that all MB's built then have. Pulled the valve body, which was a little intimidating, but not that difficult. Nothing but a big chunk of aluminium, and the only moving parts are a bunch of springs and 12 (I can't remember for sure - but I know I lost two and had to beg the dealer to give me some, because they have no part number) ball bearing type things that control pressure.
Early 722.6 conductor plates (sits on top of tranny) are known to be bad, and always replaced. I did not, because I hate throwing parts at a car, and because a voltage test ($20 Wal-Mart multimeter) showed functionality. I did use a dremel tool to take off a few milimeters of plastic, because when they updated the plate, that was the only important change. Took about 30 sec. I replaced the harness o-rings (another known problem), found the usual trans. fluid all over the harness assembly, but only a little on the pins of the trans. control unit. Sprayed everything about 400 times with alcohol, and finished with true elec. contact cleaner. Checked voltage readings from gear selector (dealer swore it was toast), all good. I did find lots of questioanble ground signals to various sensors (wheel speed sensors and the TCU). I replaced the ground cables to to the trans, but the cleaning and tightening might have been sufficient. Flushed the trans twice with ATF+4 ($3 a quart at wal-mart, and it is MB spec.), had the DTC codes cleared by a guy with a SDS tool (the only way to erase trans. codes), and while it is still early on, I can say I have driven over 30 "trip cycles", and almost a thousand miles. Shifts smoothly, No CEL's, DTC's, and I have five gears again. Total parts cost - less than $250, which includes the 20 or so Q's of trans fuid I went through, and all the wires and egr lines I replaced while I was tearing things apart. Total labor hours: You don't even want to know (I'm a little meticulous, and a lot slow)! Still, if you have some time, and have ever changed your own brake pads, don't be afraid to try some trans. work (I'm sure the true techs will assault me for saying this). Few shops will touch a 722.6 (including the dealer, who only knows how to replace), and even an uninstalled rebuild is $3k. (I'm sure the true techs will assault me for saying this).
What happens inside a transmission is not magic. Take your time, make sure you have good schematics, buy lots of gloves, take pictures/sketch as you go, and it can be done by a finance guy with a good set of tools and too much time on his hands.
I'm not a tech, just a low-level DIY'er (fluid, brake changes, etc.). MB said I needed a new valve body - and quite likely a transmission as I have 140K. Two independents said the same thing - although they siad I would have to change the gear selector also (that box we all pay $400 for when someone spills a drink on the console), and no one wanted to pull the valve body and have a look at it (I didn't even know what a valve body was at this point). Declining the $8K trans. replacement, for my $8K car, I got an EPC subscription ($4 a month) and an alldata subscription ($25 a year). Plus I found a huge free Chrysler Crossfire shop manual online (posted the link earlier). The Crossfire has tthe same driveline as any '98-02 320, regardless of chassis. Obviously there are some changes between models, but it is a good start. More importantly, it uses the 722.6 trans that all MB's built then have. Pulled the valve body, which was a little intimidating, but not that difficult. Nothing but a big chunk of aluminium, and the only moving parts are a bunch of springs and 12 (I can't remember for sure - but I know I lost two and had to beg the dealer to give me some, because they have no part number) ball bearing type things that control pressure.
Early 722.6 conductor plates (sits on top of tranny) are known to be bad, and always replaced. I did not, because I hate throwing parts at a car, and because a voltage test ($20 Wal-Mart multimeter) showed functionality. I did use a dremel tool to take off a few milimeters of plastic, because when they updated the plate, that was the only important change. Took about 30 sec. I replaced the harness o-rings (another known problem), found the usual trans. fluid all over the harness assembly, but only a little on the pins of the trans. control unit. Sprayed everything about 400 times with alcohol, and finished with true elec. contact cleaner. Checked voltage readings from gear selector (dealer swore it was toast), all good. I did find lots of questioanble ground signals to various sensors (wheel speed sensors and the TCU). I replaced the ground cables to to the trans, but the cleaning and tightening might have been sufficient. Flushed the trans twice with ATF+4 ($3 a quart at wal-mart, and it is MB spec.), had the DTC codes cleared by a guy with a SDS tool (the only way to erase trans. codes), and while it is still early on, I can say I have driven over 30 "trip cycles", and almost a thousand miles. Shifts smoothly, No CEL's, DTC's, and I have five gears again. Total parts cost - less than $250, which includes the 20 or so Q's of trans fuid I went through, and all the wires and egr lines I replaced while I was tearing things apart. Total labor hours: You don't even want to know (I'm a little meticulous, and a lot slow)! Still, if you have some time, and have ever changed your own brake pads, don't be afraid to try some trans. work (I'm sure the true techs will assault me for saying this). Few shops will touch a 722.6 (including the dealer, who only knows how to replace), and even an uninstalled rebuild is $3k. (I'm sure the true techs will assault me for saying this).
What happens inside a transmission is not magic. Take your time, make sure you have good schematics, buy lots of gloves, take pictures/sketch as you go, and it can be done by a finance guy with a good set of tools and too much time on his hands.
Last edited by muskratbenz; 02-20-2007 at 05:37 PM.
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02-20-2007, 07:05 PM
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Piece of SH*T
Congrats on the tranny job, glad you didn't have to pay a ****load of cash on something that only cost you 250 bucks,some researching, and the nerves to get down and dirty on an MB. Now enjoy that biaatch!
02-21-2007, 03:01 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Still scared, but starting to believe
Thanks for the support. Also, I know there's not much useful technical info in my post, but I don't have the confidence in my own abilities/methods to put anything up as a true DIY post. Getting closer. If anyone has any questions, though, feel free to post/pm me and I'll gladly give any relevant details suggestions. During this process I pulled the shift lever assembly out at least 15 times (trying to get the right adjustment, as well as checking the voltages on all the connectors in the back), and pulled the pan and valve body 3 times. I do think I have read just about every post relative to the 722.6 trans, on the four biggest forums. Since I never would have done this - or even still own the car - if it weren't for the constant postings (Chappy - you know you are a post *****!) by dedicated forum members, I should give whatever I can back.
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09-28-2013, 12:12 PM
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1999 Mercedes C280
I may have just been lucky, but it looks like I beat this 722.607 (98 CLK 320) into submission. I went into limp-home (2nd gear only), with a P0730 ODB II code (generic scanner), which is an incorrect gear ratio detected. Pretty vague, and every SDS/dealer reset resulted in good shifting - for about 10 miles.
I'm not a tech, just a low-level DIY'er (fluid, brake changes, etc.). MB said I needed a new valve body - and quite likely a transmission as I have 140K. Two independents said the same thing - although they siad I would have to change the gear selector also (that box we all pay $400 for when someone spills a drink on the console), and no one wanted to pull the valve body and have a look at it (I didn't even know what a valve body was at this point). Declining the $8K trans. replacement, for my $8K car, I got an EPC subscription ($4 a month) and an alldata subscription ($25 a year). Plus I found a huge free Chrysler Crossfire shop manual online (posted the link earlier). The Crossfire has tthe same driveline as any '98-02 320, regardless of chassis. Obviously there are some changes between models, but it is a good start. More importantly, it uses the 722.6 trans that all MB's built then have. Pulled the valve body, which was a little intimidating, but not that difficult. Nothing but a big chunk of aluminium, and the only moving parts are a bunch of springs and 12 (I can't remember for sure - but I know I lost two and had to beg the dealer to give me some, because they have no part number) ball bearing type things that control pressure.
Early 722.6 conductor plates (sits on top of tranny) are known to be bad, and always replaced. I did not, because I hate throwing parts at a car, and because a voltage test ($20 Wal-Mart multimeter) showed functionality. I did use a dremel tool to take off a few milimeters of plastic, because when they updated the plate, that was the only important change. Took about 30 sec. I replaced the harness o-rings (another known problem), found the usual trans. fluid all over the harness assembly, but only a little on the pins of the trans. control unit. Sprayed everything about 400 times with alcohol, and finished with true elec. contact cleaner. Checked voltage readings from gear selector (dealer swore it was toast), all good. I did find lots of questioanble ground signals to various sensors (wheel speed sensors and the TCU). I replaced the ground cables to to the trans, but the cleaning and tightening might have been sufficient. Flushed the trans twice with ATF+4 ($3 a quart at wal-mart, and it is MB spec.), had the DTC codes cleared by a guy with a SDS tool (the only way to erase trans. codes), and while it is still early on, I can say I have driven over 30 "trip cycles", and almost a thousand miles. Shifts smoothly, No CEL's, DTC's, and I have five gears again. Total parts cost - less than $250, which includes the 20 or so Q's of trans fuid I went through, and all the wires and egr lines I replaced while I was tearing things apart. Total labor hours: You don't even want to know (I'm a little meticulous, and a lot slow)! Still, if you have some time, and have ever changed your own brake pads, don't be afraid to try some trans. work (I'm sure the true techs will assault me for saying this). Few shops will touch a 722.6 (including the dealer, who only knows how to replace), and even an uninstalled rebuild is $3k. (I'm sure the true techs will assault me for saying this).
What happens inside a transmission is not magic. Take your time, make sure you have good schematics, buy lots of gloves, take pictures/sketch as you go, and it can be done by a finance guy with a good set of tools and too much time on his hands.
I'm not a tech, just a low-level DIY'er (fluid, brake changes, etc.). MB said I needed a new valve body - and quite likely a transmission as I have 140K. Two independents said the same thing - although they siad I would have to change the gear selector also (that box we all pay $400 for when someone spills a drink on the console), and no one wanted to pull the valve body and have a look at it (I didn't even know what a valve body was at this point). Declining the $8K trans. replacement, for my $8K car, I got an EPC subscription ($4 a month) and an alldata subscription ($25 a year). Plus I found a huge free Chrysler Crossfire shop manual online (posted the link earlier). The Crossfire has tthe same driveline as any '98-02 320, regardless of chassis. Obviously there are some changes between models, but it is a good start. More importantly, it uses the 722.6 trans that all MB's built then have. Pulled the valve body, which was a little intimidating, but not that difficult. Nothing but a big chunk of aluminium, and the only moving parts are a bunch of springs and 12 (I can't remember for sure - but I know I lost two and had to beg the dealer to give me some, because they have no part number) ball bearing type things that control pressure.
Early 722.6 conductor plates (sits on top of tranny) are known to be bad, and always replaced. I did not, because I hate throwing parts at a car, and because a voltage test ($20 Wal-Mart multimeter) showed functionality. I did use a dremel tool to take off a few milimeters of plastic, because when they updated the plate, that was the only important change. Took about 30 sec. I replaced the harness o-rings (another known problem), found the usual trans. fluid all over the harness assembly, but only a little on the pins of the trans. control unit. Sprayed everything about 400 times with alcohol, and finished with true elec. contact cleaner. Checked voltage readings from gear selector (dealer swore it was toast), all good. I did find lots of questioanble ground signals to various sensors (wheel speed sensors and the TCU). I replaced the ground cables to to the trans, but the cleaning and tightening might have been sufficient. Flushed the trans twice with ATF+4 ($3 a quart at wal-mart, and it is MB spec.), had the DTC codes cleared by a guy with a SDS tool (the only way to erase trans. codes), and while it is still early on, I can say I have driven over 30 "trip cycles", and almost a thousand miles. Shifts smoothly, No CEL's, DTC's, and I have five gears again. Total parts cost - less than $250, which includes the 20 or so Q's of trans fuid I went through, and all the wires and egr lines I replaced while I was tearing things apart. Total labor hours: You don't even want to know (I'm a little meticulous, and a lot slow)! Still, if you have some time, and have ever changed your own brake pads, don't be afraid to try some trans. work (I'm sure the true techs will assault me for saying this). Few shops will touch a 722.6 (including the dealer, who only knows how to replace), and even an uninstalled rebuild is $3k. (I'm sure the true techs will assault me for saying this).
What happens inside a transmission is not magic. Take your time, make sure you have good schematics, buy lots of gloves, take pictures/sketch as you go, and it can be done by a finance guy with a good set of tools and too much time on his hands.
Thank you
09-28-2013, 04:51 PM
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
In addition to lots of information here and other W208 forums, it's a must have supplement to have.
Many times, the information provided (e.g. details, pictures,tutorials), was better.
04-14-2022, 11:21 AM
#14
“Real Trans work”
No doubt about it, things usually are about the way you told them…. Dealer themselves rarely gets diagnostics rate aside from throwing parts at the cars Can generally don’t even take the time to read their own TSBs (which are there to document no issues and sometimes difficult diagnostic dilemmas with sometimes unlikely remedies-sometimes even spelled out with simple instructions to fix the issue)…..
Even though I work on these things just about all day every day, when I learned this year’s ago I realized it was my ticket to a lifelong career…. As far as real transmission work goes, anything from the conductor plate down (which is NOT at the top of the trans BTW), It’s not really transmission work in the sense that it should require any special or beyond competent DIY attention….
But once again sir, your bravery in tackling seemingly impossible tasks is a feat that will leave you feeling enlightened time and time again after being misquoted for a 10k repair from the dealer (A repair that most likely would not have fixed problem but for taking care of what needed to be done while they were in there anyway)
SO…. Keep it Up!!! 👍
Even though I work on these things just about all day every day, when I learned this year’s ago I realized it was my ticket to a lifelong career…. As far as real transmission work goes, anything from the conductor plate down (which is NOT at the top of the trans BTW), It’s not really transmission work in the sense that it should require any special or beyond competent DIY attention….
But once again sir, your bravery in tackling seemingly impossible tasks is a feat that will leave you feeling enlightened time and time again after being misquoted for a 10k repair from the dealer (A repair that most likely would not have fixed problem but for taking care of what needed to be done while they were in there anyway)
SO…. Keep it Up!!! 👍
04-26-2022, 02:34 PM
#15
Thanks for all the work you did! I am so happy it worked well for you! I have a slightly newer 06 E350AWD with the same Limp Home Mode issue. The dealer told me they don't work on transmissions when I asked about them fixing my Limp Home issue. But they'd be happy to replace my transmission for approx $8! It limped home and.has been sitting in the driveway for 2+ years while I search for someone who will t'shoot my tranny. I am a mechanic but am disabled now, so crawling under the car is no longer an option ;-) But I really appreciate your narrative, it might help me understand what I will need to do.
11-06-2022, 05:50 PM
#16
Hi, thats good to hear
I have a 2003 C240, GF said the car wouldnt start so she turned it on adn off and it was fine, that worked for about a month and then it did this full time. Did some quick research, replaced the conductor plate, filled wiht oil, turn it on, reconnect battery, CEL was gone, but the symptom still there and the code was on a cheap scan tool
I guess if the CEL is gone and the symptom is the same, it needs a proper tool to reset this code?
I have a 2003 C240, GF said the car wouldnt start so she turned it on adn off and it was fine, that worked for about a month and then it did this full time. Did some quick research, replaced the conductor plate, filled wiht oil, turn it on, reconnect battery, CEL was gone, but the symptom still there and the code was on a cheap scan tool
I guess if the CEL is gone and the symptom is the same, it needs a proper tool to reset this code?
10-04-2023, 12:25 AM
#17
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E55amg
I may have just been lucky, but it looks like I beat this 722.607 (98 CLK 320) into submission. I went into limp-home (2nd gear only), with a P0730 ODB II code (generic scanner), which is an incorrect gear ratio detected. Pretty vague, and every SDS/dealer reset resulted in good shifting - for about 10 miles.
I'm not a tech, just a low-level DIY'er (fluid, brake changes, etc.). MB said I needed a new valve body - and quite likely a transmission as I have 140K. Two independents said the same thing - although they siad I would have to change the gear selector also (that box we all pay $400 for when someone spills a drink on the console), and no one wanted to pull the valve body and have a look at it (I didn't even know what a valve body was at this point). Declining the $8K trans. replacement, for my $8K car, I got an EPC subscription ($4 a month) and an alldata subscription ($25 a year). Plus I found a huge free Chrysler Crossfire shop manual online (posted the link earlier). The Crossfire has tthe same driveline as any '98-02 320, regardless of chassis. Obviously there are some changes between models, but it is a good start. More importantly, it uses the 722.6 trans that all MB's built then have. Pulled the valve body, which was a little intimidating, but not that difficult. Nothing but a big chunk of aluminium, and the only moving parts are a bunch of springs and 12 (I can't remember for sure - but I know I lost two and had to beg the dealer to give me some, because they have no part number) ball bearing type things that control pressure.
Early 722.6 conductor plates (sits on top of tranny) are known to be bad, and always replaced. I did not, because I hate throwing parts at a car, and because a voltage test ($20 Wal-Mart multimeter) showed functionality. I did use a dremel tool to take off a few milimeters of plastic, because when they updated the plate, that was the only important change. Took about 30 sec. I replaced the harness o-rings (another known problem), found the usual trans. fluid all over the harness assembly, but only a little on the pins of the trans. control unit. Sprayed everything about 400 times with alcohol, and finished with true elec. contact cleaner. Checked voltage readings from gear selector (dealer swore it was toast), all good. I did find lots of questioanble ground signals to various sensors (wheel speed sensors and the TCU). I replaced the ground cables to to the trans, but the cleaning and tightening might have been sufficient. Flushed the trans twice with ATF+4 ($3 a quart at wal-mart, and it is MB spec.), had the DTC codes cleared by a guy with a SDS tool (the only way to erase trans. codes), and while it is still early on, I can say I have driven over 30 "trip cycles", and almost a thousand miles. Shifts smoothly, No CEL's, DTC's, and I have five gears again. Total parts cost - less than $250, which includes the 20 or so Q's of trans fuid I went through, and all the wires and egr lines I replaced while I was tearing things apart. Total labor hours: You don't even want to know (I'm a little meticulous, and a lot slow)! Still, if you have some time, and have ever changed your own brake pads, don't be afraid to try some trans. work (I'm sure the true techs will assault me for saying this). Few shops will touch a 722.6 (including the dealer, who only knows how to replace), and even an uninstalled rebuild is $3k. (I'm sure the true techs will assault me for saying this).
What happens inside a transmission is not magic. Take your time, make sure you have good schematics, buy lots of gloves, take pictures/sketch as you go, and it can be done by a finance guy with a good set of tools and too much time on his hands.
I'm not a tech, just a low-level DIY'er (fluid, brake changes, etc.). MB said I needed a new valve body - and quite likely a transmission as I have 140K. Two independents said the same thing - although they siad I would have to change the gear selector also (that box we all pay $400 for when someone spills a drink on the console), and no one wanted to pull the valve body and have a look at it (I didn't even know what a valve body was at this point). Declining the $8K trans. replacement, for my $8K car, I got an EPC subscription ($4 a month) and an alldata subscription ($25 a year). Plus I found a huge free Chrysler Crossfire shop manual online (posted the link earlier). The Crossfire has tthe same driveline as any '98-02 320, regardless of chassis. Obviously there are some changes between models, but it is a good start. More importantly, it uses the 722.6 trans that all MB's built then have. Pulled the valve body, which was a little intimidating, but not that difficult. Nothing but a big chunk of aluminium, and the only moving parts are a bunch of springs and 12 (I can't remember for sure - but I know I lost two and had to beg the dealer to give me some, because they have no part number) ball bearing type things that control pressure.
Early 722.6 conductor plates (sits on top of tranny) are known to be bad, and always replaced. I did not, because I hate throwing parts at a car, and because a voltage test ($20 Wal-Mart multimeter) showed functionality. I did use a dremel tool to take off a few milimeters of plastic, because when they updated the plate, that was the only important change. Took about 30 sec. I replaced the harness o-rings (another known problem), found the usual trans. fluid all over the harness assembly, but only a little on the pins of the trans. control unit. Sprayed everything about 400 times with alcohol, and finished with true elec. contact cleaner. Checked voltage readings from gear selector (dealer swore it was toast), all good. I did find lots of questioanble ground signals to various sensors (wheel speed sensors and the TCU). I replaced the ground cables to to the trans, but the cleaning and tightening might have been sufficient. Flushed the trans twice with ATF+4 ($3 a quart at wal-mart, and it is MB spec.), had the DTC codes cleared by a guy with a SDS tool (the only way to erase trans. codes), and while it is still early on, I can say I have driven over 30 "trip cycles", and almost a thousand miles. Shifts smoothly, No CEL's, DTC's, and I have five gears again. Total parts cost - less than $250, which includes the 20 or so Q's of trans fuid I went through, and all the wires and egr lines I replaced while I was tearing things apart. Total labor hours: You don't even want to know (I'm a little meticulous, and a lot slow)! Still, if you have some time, and have ever changed your own brake pads, don't be afraid to try some trans. work (I'm sure the true techs will assault me for saying this). Few shops will touch a 722.6 (including the dealer, who only knows how to replace), and even an uninstalled rebuild is $3k. (I'm sure the true techs will assault me for saying this).
What happens inside a transmission is not magic. Take your time, make sure you have good schematics, buy lots of gloves, take pictures/sketch as you go, and it can be done by a finance guy with a good set of tools and too much time on his hands.
I think I need to do exactly the same thing.
Do you have any pics or videos because I am a very begginer....
Thanks
