Wheel alignment problems.. front not adjustable?
Well, after this moron touched the car it handles terrible. The steering wheel is LOOSE. It is not as responsible, i have to constantly counter-steer to feel like I'm in control. It's also tilted in the other direction now. I am going to go back there and tell him to put it to what it was at before, but I'm afraid it's messed up permanently.
Does anyone who had an alignment done and their car drives perfect and the steering is nice and tight without any uneven tirewear have a PRINT OUT by any chance? With the exact specs on it? I need to fix this becuase it's driving me crazy...
One last thing to consider, if you bring alignment specs to a shop, and you're not satisfied with how the car handles when they're done, the shop may tell you that they aligned it to "your" specifications and offer to change it for another fee.
Absolute lastly, if you fill out your profile those who have access to the factory specs may look it up for you. However, it's doubtful anyone will post the specs for every variation (200/230K/320/430/55/US/ROW) of every year coupe and convertible.
also last time i checked, the labor to put it those camber/crash bolts in was just as steep as installing the camber kit, so depending on how bad your camber is, you might want to go the route of the kit.
Last edited by CurYousGee; Jun 12, 2007 at 04:24 AM.
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but $50 for camber bolts????
Camber bolts? It's a bolt. Aside from it costing less than a buck, they take yours off and use it on some other car later on. For $140 they should align the car AND balance the wheels. That's along with washing the car and giving you a free hat. Am I cheap, or what?
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I am going to do the front camber kit next. The bushings for the front are almost three times lager than the rear bushings. Full pressure on the bench is needed to push out the OEM front bushings. With this amount of pressure something could easily break. I have got my hands on a spare control arm to do a test run on before doing my car. I heard that it is not uncommon to need to torch out the OEM front bushings.
I watch them do alignments, they set those laser things on your wheels and then just turn what seems to be one adjustment until it falls into the 'range' of factory specs according to what it says on their machine. Almost everytime it drives crappy afterwards. I have a feeling they only do TOE. My buddy is a tech at Toyota and says independent shops do what is called "TOE AND GO" as on most cars toe adjustment will fix any pulling problems or what people typically associate with a bad alignment. Saves time but can still handle and feel like sh-t but most people can't tell anything and most FWD cars can drive ok with just toe adjusted.
So... Do I need camber bolts even if my car isn't lowered?
Thank you
This might sound like a dumb question and probably was answered somewhere else, but does our car need a camber kit?
Did you get your alignment from them for $99 with the camber bolts? did you have it done recently? any idea on whether they'll give me crap for having a lowered car?
I need to get an alignment for my car very soon... but I'm on H&R springs, so i'm not sure if the dealer would want to work on it.
Any idea on how I might be able to get that $99 alignment?
Camber bolts for a W208 are part number 2103300018. They're $14 at full list, and commonly sold for $11. I see why Hersh was told they're $50. Why you were quoted $272 is a mystery.
Camber bolts for a W208 are part number 2103300018. They're $14 at full list, and commonly sold for $11. I see why Hersh was told they're $50. Why you were quoted $272 is a mystery.
Had my car aligned today at an independent shop. Toe and caster was fine, but I have about -2 degrees of camber on all my wheels.. so it looks like I'll be needing the camber bolts.
Which service advisor should I talk to at MB of Valencia? and if you have their direct phone number I'd greatly appreciate it too.
Before you drive out, there is a small issue you may wish to consider, as your problem is different from that of the original poster -
MB camber bolts can make up about 2 degrees. When your alignment tech said two degrees, if he meant 2 degrees at a stationary ride height, MB factory bolts will NOT fix your problem. That's because camber is affected by ride height. Ride height changes when the car is in motion - it sits lower. The lower it sits, the more negative camber. Going on what most people report, using H&R springs on a W208 introduces more than 2 degrees of negative camber. This means you have to use non-factory parts to correct the issue.
To fix this properly on a lowered car, you can *try* EVO Sport camber bolts for the front. They're $8 a pop. I've never compared them to MB camber bolts, and they may be the same part for all I know. Per what most other owners claim, a K-Mac kit will fix the problem. That's for the front.
For the back, House of Power in Huntington Beach has a kit to address this. As does Speedybnz out of northern California. The Speedybnz kit replaces two of the rear links, versus HOP, which replaces four.






