rolaes62

Hello All,

First of all I would like to thank everyone on this forum for all their knowledge. I've absorb everything I've read and have applied it to all the issues I've had on my 99 CLK320. So far I've been able to resolve the majority of my problems from AC issues to what type of lowering springs to get. But this one is kicking my butt:

I won't bore you with the details, so here it is in a nut shell:

1) Car went in to limp mode two weeks ago, unable to recover after shutting off car. ODBII says P0715. (input shaft speed sensor circuit)

2) I've read all the data on transmission issues (very helpful) and have already tried/changed the following:

Electric kit, valve body, all solenoids, adapter plug, cleaned connector and pins on TCU, and had transmission flushed (filter and gasket also changed) by indy mech.

Unfortunately the car won't come out of limp mode. ODBII says no errors.

I read on one of the forums that I need a STAR diagnostic tool to reset everything is this true? Is it something my Indy mechanic can do?

Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

C43AMG

Try disconnecting the battery for a 1/2 hour and see if that clears it.

rolaes62

Thanks C43AMG, I tried that and still no go. I spoke to my indy and he said that he has the modus for MB's, I going to bring it to him today to have him clear the memory and perform an adaptation (?) I'll update after he's done.

Ranger29

Hi,

Was just wondering if there're any updates since you took your W208 to the indy mechanic.

Was the issue resolved via resetting the ECU?

My 1998 W208 230K's experiencing this (car won't shift beyond 1st gear) and it will spend the next couple days (fingers x'ed) at the indy mechanic's till they're able to troubleshoot the problem.

Fyi, the entire instrument cluster lit up like a x'mas tree (ABS, ASR, blown bulb, etc) recently and problem still persists after numerous ECU resets. On top of that, the needles of the water temp & RPM gauges are stuck We suspect it might be a faulty instrument cluster and was told that there's also an "ECU" within the cluster itself which is linked to the tranny, brake system, (central locking?), etc

Mechanic also shared that this problem of instrument cluster lighting up was common among W210s.

Cheers!

MarcusF

I had that same code last year. Here's the thread. It was about $800 at the dealer. They replaced the plate, did the infamous o-ring job, changed the fluid, and gave me an '08 C Class to drive around while the CLK was being fixed.

rolaes62

Hello All,

Sorry for the late post reply I just got back from vacation.

Here's the update:

My indy (he's good and I trust his assesments + he didn't charge me a cent to check out my car!) says that the conductor plate I installed is bad that I still have the input 2 speed sensor error.

He cleared all the embedded errors in the memory and performed the adaptation reset for the EGS and ME. He told me that it shifted once out of 2nd real hard but then it wouldn't go into 3rd. He tried the "turn off and turn on" sequence but no go. He hooked up the Diagnostics tool again and the error code gave him another P0715 error.

I'm going to order another conductor plate ( I found one from OE Discount parts for $141 with free shipping) and I also purchased a Carsoft multiplexer so I can check things out myself ($105 for Deal Extreme if your interested).

Hopefully this part works this time.

rolaes62

MarcusF,

Oh man I remember you now!, Yeah I read your thread when I first started getting my limp mode condition and it inspired me to tackle the problem. Working on this problem is helping me better understand my car, my friends say I bought a "money pit" But I tell them "It's a Mercedes and once I fix it it's fixed!" I'm sure once I get the new plate installed and do the adaptation I'll be back on the road!

rolaes62

OK I finally got my car to come out of limp mode tonight!

Before I ordered another electric plate I did recieve my Carsoft & multiplexer (Thanks to jjohnv for recomending it) and decided to hook it up and see what was going on.

After fumbling around with the software I was able to reset all memory errors that my indy missed and perform a ME & EGS addaptation reset. I did a diagnostic test on the ME & EGS and it gave no further errors. I rechecked my trans fluid level. It was good and then got in the car put it in reverse (no thug which was a good sign ) then in Drive (again no thug ) and WAHLA! it started shifting. 1st, 2nd, 3rd the n 4th YEAH! I've driven the car around 20 miles or so and tomorrow I will go through the whole gambit of speed shifts to make sure everything works.

If I missed anybody thanks for all your help and advise!

Best Regards,

Rusty

dieter.boehm

Hello:

How did you do this reset?
Is there a way I can do this without any special electronics?

ME & EGS

rolaes62

Hi Dieter,

Sorry the only way I was able to clear the errors (adaptation) was with the carsoft 7.4 software and multiplexer. If you need the link to order the multiplexer (it comes with the software) I can PM it to you or if you are in AZ I can reset it for you.

MarcusF might also have a way to reset your errors if you want to PM him also.

blake.tyler93

Hi I recently purchased a 1999 Mercedes Benz E430 from a friend of mine. I realized that there is an annoying clunk when i switch from park to reverse and park to drive. Also, it will not change out of the current gear it is in, which I believe is 1st or 2nd, with the check engine light on. I've been doing research about how to get a Mercedes out of limp mode and the most common solution seemed to buy a carsoft 7.4 multiplexer and reset all the memory codes. Also, my mechanic said it was the speed sensor causing the car to do this but he wants around $1,000 to "fix" it. However, I believe its a simple fix and that I can most likely resolve this problem by purchasing the carsoft multiplexer and resetting the codes. My vehicle is a 1999 MERCEDES E430 (128,XXX MILES).

Please let me know what you guys think and if I'm going with the correct approach so I don't waste money. Thanks in advance.

MarcusF

In my opinion -

If a speed sensor signal itself is bad , resetting the error codes will not correct that. If you think resetting the codes will fix the problem, trust me, the dealer will reset the codes while doing the diagnostics - then they'll take it for a test drive. If the error reoccurs, the problem with the sensor must be corrected. I personally have had a problem with a sensor, so this isn't a guess. I personally reset my codes before taking it to a dealer. The problem could be a sensor, the plate, or a number of other things. The tech wont know until the parts are on the workbench in front of them.

Personally, if I were you, I'd see the dealer rather than use an Indy. My dealer charged me $800. That included replacing the plate (which was cracked, the sensor was fine), a doing the infamous o-ring (which should be upgraded if it hasn't already), a C-Class loaner, and cleaning the car. Even if dealer prices have increased 25% (doubtful), an Indy is supposed to charge substantially less than a dealer, not be on par.

mis3

For my w209, it would go to limp mode once in a while, like once per week or so. Quick annoying because I would have to stop the car somewhere to restart.

The transmisison is a 722.6 and should be the same as yours. I ended up changing the conductor. I bought the OE parts from the local dealership and my indie changed the parts. The whole job costed me $750CAN.

You have to drop the pan to change the conductor plate so you will need 3-4 litres of ATF. Depending when was your last ATF change, you might want to change the filter inside the pan as well which is inexpensive.