OK, soooooo, i sprayed the belt(stopped squeeking, so its gotta be that alternator idler pulley,im probly just gunna get a new pulley) cleaned the throttle body, maf, and K&N filter. vented the 5/8in pcv line to atmosphere, had the tank vent line connected to the tb,topped off coolant, put the headlight back in, and slapped the bumper back on. and removed the sprint booster (i drove with it last night). right away i noticed it wasnt bogging as much or hesitating so i took it down to the beach with my gf. after exactly 30 miles on the dot(almost, maybe lik 1/2 mile off) if adapted and ran as smooth as a stock car. transitions on and off boost were great, kicked in and screamed beautifully, and overall was a nice increase. then i got to thinking(when i think its not always good) its a nice increase but not much over my stock setup w/ renntech intake and exhaust and sprintbooster. could the sprintbooster really of made that much of a difference on my basically stock car, i asked myself? so i run home plug that thing back in and im drivin and drivin hoping this thing adapts cuz im already feeling the difference between the bogging cuz it has to adapt again. after about 50 miles im like wtf it dont want to adapt, i didnt want to give up so 20,30,40 more miles later im starting to notice it adapting(less bogging,better shifts) finally it adapts and i decide to pull a couple of hole shots. HOLY SH*T!!!!!!! this thing ran like a raped ape.6000rpm came in no time, wayway faster than w/o the sprint booster. so i come to a stop on the parkway to pull another one. thow it in tiptronic, 1st gear,2nd gear, top of 3rd and check engine comes on. now im sh*ttin my pants for real,as if the hole shots werent helping that cause out enough. so i drive it home at 35mph(im about 20 miles from my house) get home round 3am. pop the hood and discover the dipstick sticking out and an already leaking valvecover gasket(the little one on top of the left valve cover if your looking at the motor) now leaking like a siv. pull the codes on my scanner and states

1. p-0102 (mass or volume airflow 'a' circuit low input)

2. p-0112 (intake air temperature sensor 1 circuit low)

so i conclude that either the maf clamp is messing up the maf reading or that air is passing through it way too fast for it to get a good reading? any thoughts, anyone else have these problems?

as for now, im probly gunna get that gasket new, figure out what to do with the 5/8in pcv line,nitrogen said something about a valve that will restrict vacuum to a certain degree? can you elaberate?and hopefully get to a dyno with the week, to see where im at a/f wise. i want to also thank everyone thus far that has hung in there with me and brainstormed with me, THANK YOU!

 

Maybe try to tee a boost/vac gage in a couple of spots to know what's going on, even if you have to tape it to the hood..? sounds like ur boosting crankcase to me. and yes, you definately need to know ur not running lean.

 

On the 4.3L you shouldn't need to buy a scaling MAF clamp to make it work, the one supplied should work if you are running the kit unmodified. When my car was finished the CEL came up a couple times at first and a couple manual resets cleared it for good. Not sure what was adapting in my case but it did light up a couple times at first. I also didn't have your hicup issues. I did have the dipstick blow out once.

Is the blower filled with PCV gunk now? It was so clean and shiny in there I think a PCV valve would act as a CFM/vacuum restrisction on the 5/8 TB line. I would ditch the idea as it will still pull some gunk through the blower. I used the TB line for the tank vent only.

Is there a dyno in your area? maybe just to get some A/F values to see if its a fuel issue? Are you using small rigid vac tubing to the FMU out back?

 

FYI, sprint booster will not make your car faster. It will just amplify the input given at the gas pedal to make your car feel faster.

 

douginky, i am def gunna get it on a dyno once it adapts again to the sprintbooster. it started boging again cuz i cleared the stored dtc's on the computer when i cleared the check engine light las nite. i might pick up 2 of those small boost guages they sell at pepboys and put them inline of the fmu line and on the vacuum source i hav the bypass valve hooked up to and see what happens. its just that im not crazy about running guages inside the car, to ricey having 3 or 4 guages lined up. if i can find a way to hide them well enough maybe. i know its good to keep an eye on things but think of it this way all these stock cars coming out now with turbos and superchargers half of the dont hav any of those guages. if its set up right and connections are made well and its running good and all of a sudden you start noticing somthing different in the drive then you know its time to back off the throttle, dont let it boost and get in the garage and figure it out.

Nitrogenbalance, i think when i hooked up the sprintbooster it messed with it alittle(opening the butterfly on the TB quicker than w/o it created a crazy vortech of air in the maf with the help of the sc vacuum and it wasnt able to calculate or read air input?) w/o it it was fine just not as quick acceleration. and yeah the blower probly is filled with oil now i should take the top outlet duct off and see the damage, you live and learn, thank god i noticed before i started fouling plugs(iridiums), the o2 sensors, or hurt the blow. i guess it should come apart tho. as of right now i just have the tank vent line hooked up to the tb, and on idle that line closes up(lots of vacuum) when i hit the gas it opens up. i should probly get rigid line if im going to do that. all the ports on the valve covers have breathers on them right now. but the 1 5/8 line needs vacuum. was thinking about make the line narrower and the tb end. maybe coupling the line with a 3/8 or maybe 1/4in line at the tb end so it has less of a vacuum effect? smaller hose and opening to big hose=less vacuum sort of deal? alot of turbo guys do this. the pcv valve can work also. as for air/fuel i dont think its the cause of the bogging, cuz once it adapted it ran like a stock car(jus more powerful) also would you hear knock sensors if it was detonating(i dont hear anything)? and yes im using the rigid line, back up to about 2 feetto the fmu then regular vacuum line.

blackbenzz, im not trying to knock you down in anyway cuz i know you know your sh*t about these cars but in my 02' it def works 100% no doubt about it. where i work theres a speed trap and tested it multiple times. idk the exact distance from the light to the radar but time after time the sprint booster always averaged about 6mph faster. i think it works work better upon 0-60 rather than say 40-XX. las nite it was like day and nite with and w/o it. anyone would of been able to notice it. try it on your kleemann, actually you dont need it your fast enough

 

The sprint booster thing is strange. I bought one when they first started showing up here and it was fun for a couple days. On two occasions there after I mashed the gas at a light, went into limp mode, and got smoked by very ghey cars. Dangerous limp mode where the car doesn't accelerate at all.

The car should have all the bottom end you need on street tires once running properly. Try the manual pedal addaptation reset trick? Holding the pedal down with the key in the on positon trick. I mean I spent the entire time feathering the gas trying to perfect launches without it..

For the TB/tank line I threaded a 1/8 barb into the TB port and ran a rigid 1/4 line so it wouldn't cave in as you mentioned. The only issue I can think of making the 5/8 line smaller as you mentioned is the CFM and amount of air capable of escaping the crankcase. It will still pull the same amount of vaccum too, just through a smaller line.

How about...using the short OE line off the 5/8 port and run it to the unused port at the back of the intake manifold where the TB bolts up. Run a check valve here so boost stays in, and check valves on the 3/8 lines as not to introduce a vac leak during regular driving. This way you'll retain the proper line size and keep the blowby gunk in the manifold and out of the blower. Under normal driving you'll have vac assist and under boost the two 3/8 lines will act as open breathers. Prob want to run a PCV in the 5/8 line to restrict some flow. Then again, if blowby under boost is the issue than this will still probably pop your dipstick.

oh the fun.

 

theres definatly some good ideas there. im gunna take it off tonite and examine the inside of the charger for oil also it sounded kinda funny like rocks bouncing around in it like when charger bearings go bad. you did just hav it rebuilt tho so idk, did it sound good when you first put it on? also im gunna try to fit a bigger air filter in there. after talking ot a buddy of mine he thinks that the added vacuum on that 5/8in line is cuz the filter isnt big enough and tha motor is searching for more air through that line. sounds logical cuz the car comes stock with 2 filters and now were adding a vacuum on the motor so it needs alot more air. clearance is a huge issue tho.

 

any update?

I could use a bit of help...

https://mbworld.org/forums/c36-amg-c...ml#post3961971

 

hey, yea so i got back the sc after having the rear rotor bearings replaced and i just finished installing it earlier. runs hard but still bogs at 3000 rpm. i talked to nitrogen and he says it takes about 2 weeks to get all the bugs and glitches out and till it adapts 100%. how did yours run after install,(bogging,CEL light, etc.?) i would get it to adapt and then once i turn the car off and get back in it later it will start all over again, any idea. also i found a site that converted the pulley sizes to psi. i posted a while back in the c43 section if you cant find it here it is. next post below

 

www.boost.xu1.net

the stock pulley size is 2.625in. idk the offset off hand ill get asap

 

you got a boost gauge? u should if u dont I have carbon fiber boost vacuum gauge i could sell u? Also do u have a voltage clamp on the mass? sounds like u have a vacuum leak. With the engine running get some brake cleaner and spray around all areas where a gasket exsists.

 

My stock pulley is the same size. As for offset I think there may be two different offsets depending on when your HPS was made. In the instructions they show a plate for the 55 engine that spaces the blower back about 3/8" inch from the main mounting plate. This was supposed to be an addition for the 5.5 and not needed on the 4.3 but I think I recall seeing this plate on nitros old kit and my kit needs it too. I'm thinking at some point HPS just made all their kits use the same pulley offset instead of different offsets for the 4.3 and 5.5.

As for E55cent I think I recall his pulley was 2.25 but don't quote me on that.

Edit: E55cent was running 2"

 

i picked one up but havnt installed it yet, its one of those cheap ones from pepboys(just for diagnoses purposes)im just gunna hook it up and run the line under the hood then through the window and tape it sumwhere lol(Temporary) i dont plan on running one inside the car yet. i want to figure everything out with the motor first and then once im done with it i plan on making somthing to mount the gauges inside the cigarette ligher compartment(no smoking in this car!!!!) i do hav the maf clamp hooked up, the one with the kit. do i kno if it works correctly, idk. im going to search for a leak. not crazy bout spraying brake cleaner on the motor, anything else i can use thats less potent but ull get the job done, so i dont start takin paint and such away with overspray?

 

man when are you gunna put yours in, im here all alone doin this, lol!

 

Correction. E55cent was running a 2" pulley. See post 16 in this thread

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...ader-pics.html

 

Honestly it has taken forever to do things on this car. It seems I am constantly on the road working and when I'm home I'm too busy tying up loose ends just to head out again. In fact my car went 4 months without putting more then 10 miles on it...However seeing (and hearing) a bunch of cars put down some serious power at the recent Seattle dyno day has seemed to light a fire under my *** and get me motivated again. I know I wont reach their power levels but I'm hoping to be most improved at the next dyno day.

 

you can use carb cleaner/ throttle body cleaner. does your voltage clamp have and adjusting screw in it? do u know how to adjustage the voltage signal? u might be clamping too high..

 

wow- I will not be going down in pulley size nearly as far as he did! I'd be very happy with running it 8-10% smaller. I'd just really like to truly see 6.5 or 7 psi.

what is the correct way to measure the offset? I have a diagram somewhere, but is there a "trick" to getting it precise?


mine ran horribly after install- I replaced the maf and it ran ok. I then tuned the maf with my split second unit and tuned out some of those blips and other issues. Perhaps the stock ecu can adapt to clean those up over time? with my car it runs perfect even after an ecu reset.

 

per that calculator- roughly a 3 psi change going to 2.25

 

im going to try it, i do hear a faint whistle if i hold the pedal still in one position, then it goes away under acceleration and decel. maybe vacuum leak causing it? the voltage clamp is non adjustable, its the one from the gen1 kit. i think its clamped at 4.98v, i was told.

im going to try replacing the maf, ive never replaced it in the 5 years ive had the car. i read about you using the split second clamp. does it run its wiring just like the original clamp? imgoing to run around as is for now and if it doesnt fix itself im goin to try that too. other than going plast a certain point pedal wise it runs fine, and sumtimes wont bog even past 3000rpm. but once you hammer down even just 1/2 throttle all hell breaks loose and its all over the place. one sec. its going smooth, then it bogs at 3000, then it goes,stops,goes,stop, then it somwhat smoothens out, then starts going and stoppin again

 

U can use a propane tourch as well, without the flame, just open the valve and wave it around all the gasket areas, that works great too.

 

I may have a spare MAF element or two...

I never installed the clamp so don't know how this differs installation wise?

Any hesitation or weird "ping-pong" from high-low rpms was unacceptable to me. Scaling things fixed that tendency. I do not trust just "letting the computer" adjust. I have excellent driveability now.

 

if anyone can give me a detailed spec sheet on what to do and not to do I would very much appreciate that. I could definitely throw you a few bucks for helping too just tired of wasting money and getting screwed over by people thanks