The same happens when I want to take to top down. I turn handle in roof, windows comes down, top rear bow opens up all the way but the cover does not open. I open cover manually with the wrench. Then I pull on the button again and the roof comes down and the cover closes and all it good.

what do you think is wrong?

I have a strange issue, turning hard right the windows all go down and the switch for the roof blinks...
Not nice when it rains...
Any tips?
Best regards
Petter

All the windows going down sounds like it thinks the top has been unlatched and is ready to be opened and stowed (via the console switch). On the other hand the blinking switch sounds like it's confused (or maybe not happy that you're opening the top at speed?). I'm not by my car but I'd think the limit switch gets actuated when the top is unlatched, on a hard right turn, is shifting in some just enough to get actuated, or a wire getting shorted (hopefully near the same switch)? Check the diagram in post #47 above - I think the switch in question is called out there.

Mark

When you say "limit switch", where is it located?

Hello Peter,

When the vehicle is operated and the soft top operating switch lamp flashes, while not being pressed, indicates that the top is not properly locked.

As shown below, the S84/11soft top (left) limit switch located behind a plastic trim panel on the top of the windshield frame.

When you manually close the roof and lock the front bow, the locking handle has a lever that actuates the switch's normally open contacts to vehicle ground, which puts the soft top controller to sleep.

Conversely, when you turn the locking handle to open the roof, the lever releases the pressure on the micro-switch, the controller wakes up, lowers the windows (if previously up) and proceeds to open the roof.

However, seemingly mysterious micro-switch actualization's' can occur, such as when going over a bump, pothole, aggressive cornering etc., which can be easily be corrected by readjusting the switch position for slightly increased lever contact (e.g. after loosing the screws that fasten the switch to the frame).

See the post # 1 and #4 for here additional details.

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Will dig in this weekend!
Petter

So I have a similar problem with my W208 CLK whereby the roof/windows/mirrors stopped working and the S84 switch remained illuminated indicating a possible close limit switch issue. I got around this by removing the 2 fuses in the boot fusebox to reset the control box. However I'm now in this strange position were the switch is still illuminated but everything is working, the switch flashes when driving and on initially pulling away it bongs for a few seconds but other then that all good.

Any suggestions ?

See the first document, in post 209, for an explanation of the possible faults and causes that the soft top controller found when it ran it's built in diagnostics.

Additionally, each time the roof is opened or closed, the chime in the overhead panel will sound briefly (for 1 second), confirming correct roof operation.

Additionally, upon driving off, if the chime sounds again and for a longer time, by design, it's a warning the the roof is not correctly locked.

My suggestion would be to use the documents and techniques I've previously posted, to check that the position/limit switches for front bow, rear bow and/or compartment cover locks are being correctly actuated.

OK Guys just to give an update lots of useful information on these threads, spent the best part of Saturday afternoon stripping out the trim and finding the location of all the switches. Started trying to bell them out but the pin outs for the plug didnt match the diagram which at first I thought perhaps there maybe different type controllers, after much belling out and proving of wires I relized the diagram is of the controller pin outs and not the plug so the plug would be a mirrior it all started to make sense then.
So I proved thiswith the easier to reach switch S69/10 which proved OK, next I thought lets try the A25/s2 and proved all OK. So now I think I'm on the right track next the S84/16 but I could not get this to bell out to the controller plug, removed the plug at the switch and proved the switch OK, next traced the wire halfway through the loom to just befoire where it disappears behind the trim in the upper lefthand boot area and stripped a small section of insulation back and belled this to the controller which proved I was tracing the correct wire. Removed the plastic trim in the upper section of the boot above where the roller cover is and hey presto the wire was snapped!! However is wasnt evident how this had happeded utill I operated the lid back anf forth by hand while observing the cable and noted a plastic knob which is part of the moulding was stretching the wire when the lid was fully open must have been like this from build. I cut back the the knobule and soldered the wire and heat shrinked boom all worked also noted the hydraulic cylinder has a leak so have ordered a new seal.

OK so this is now doing my head in, the roof worked fine for several days and now the switch is permenantly lit again, I have gone through all the switchs belling to the plug and all are fine the only issue I may have is following the fault gudie step 3.0 I could not get any voltage on the plug between pins 55 - 52 I assumed this was because I had removed the plug where as they use a break out box ?
And 1 other thing when the roof is lowered and you continue holding S84 switch all the windows then riase should the anti role bar headrests also riase ?

Any thoughts

Hi
I just bought this 1999 clk 320 convertible and I have a few problems. It was 2 large, so I'm not here to complain I got what I paid for

That tiny fan in the dome is quite noisy I'd like to either replace it or first clean it maybe it'll be less loud. How should I gently remove the dome to access the fan?

The rear view mirror is not fixed completely it shakes when not driving on a flat surface. Perhaps once I remove the dome "panel" I can just tighten a screw that'll fix this one.

The rear driver side window doesn't go down when I push the button on the mid panel I hear sounds from the back but nothing happens. I tried to gently force it while pushing the button so maybe it just stuck a little, but nothing (no brute force) I'm wondering if there's any tutorial how to remove the cover on the inside so I can take a look maybe it's a straight forward visible thing so an easy fix I just don't know how to properly remove the panel.

The second would be the top of course. Just so I can rule out a quick fix, is there a way to tell that the motor is dead? (It's a $250 part and that I'm not spending on this car)

There's 1-1 oil (?) drop under the car after standing in the garage for 2 days. One is near the screw you unscrew when changing oil, and the other is a little behind the engine looks like the engine pan. Does the transmission have that? The fluid feels softer than oil. Am I in big trouble?

Thank you for your suggestions and help!



(not that it helps but here's a pic of the car)

Hi,

Lots of questions here so I'll try to answer some.

Not sure what you mean by the fan in the dome. If this is the main aircon fan, then try replacing the cabin filter.

Here's how to replace the rear window. >>> https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ar-window.html. Or you could try using the one of the switches from the passenger side.

Here's how to get at the roof pump >> There are hundreds of tips on this threads.on how to solve stuff.

Transmission leaks are not fatal, but you do need to keep checking the level otherwise it won't work. you might need to replace the transmission fluid if it is too and dirty.

I've had loads of fun over the last 3 years with my 208 cabriolet but at times it has been a battle to get things fixed. Your car looks beautiful, but there's reason why they say don't buy a cheap Mercedes. Enjoy the challenges and driving a very cool car.

first of all thank you for your answers, and yes i did not expect it to be perfect. as of today this money i had for a car, and i didn't want a DAD-101 honda accord (no offense great car, just a not-my-type sedan example)
the paint is burned/damaged, but that i can live with. maybe i just "wax on - wax off" to make it less bad later.

about the "dome" it is this guy here, and I GUESS it's a tiny fan that sucks in air for the ac thermometer. (guess...) so when i turn the engine off and wait 10-20 sec (idk) then the noise stops with a quick 'spindown' hence my guess it's a fan. and once i remove the panel and take it apart it will probably be very dirty and a compressed air blow could fix that. if not i either simply unplug it or order a replacement mustn't be a 3 but not even a 2 digit part if it's still to get.

oh man. so let me get this straight because i want to make it sound ridiculous which it is. you have to take out the WHOLE back seat including bottom and back to take a look at the side window lift. not that i don't have time. just a little overcomplicated just to hide 3 screws. thanks for the link it definitely helps me not to just rip the side plastic off... )

the roof pump i'll get to and use a multimeter to try to figure what's up with that. CAN it be that only the button on the mid panel is broken? (and how epic that'd be? )

wow 10 liters of transmission fluid. in case it leaks because a broken pan gasket, and a 10 dollar replacement would solve the problem can i just re-use the fluid i drain? the droplets look very clean.
i'll check the fluid levels, the 'other' leak which is probably the transmission then is can say crystal clear. i'll google where to check the level and how to refill it and with what. thanks for that. i had a 1994 ford escort before that i almost had to add as much oil as gasoline to make it run... (not really but it ATE oil like 3-4liters in 1000km's were gone)

thanks again and looking forward driving and having fun with it, summer in SoCal is hot and sunny and i have a closed garage so does my workplace and i shop in a good neighbourhood so i may just leave the top down all the time... what is there to steal from the car anyway?

A quick test for the pump is to raise the rear seat crash bar up and down. If they work then your pump is working.

omg thanks. i have a button to lower it pushed and it made a noise. probably locked like i read on another forum topics. no worries that's a step. so my suspicion from the first second was that the button doesn't work. i removed the front bottom panel and voila. the button plug is falling out for it's broken. pushing it starts to roll down the windows without that the roof can't go down, the metal cover would break the back window. BUT my driver side rear window stuck. i suppose there's sensors all over and without all the windows down, the roof will not start to go down.
fingers crossed that when i repair the rear window, the roof will go down (and my car's value up lol)

btw a nano sim card sized spider climbed out from under the back seat. i'm on meds ever since.

I just bought a 2008 CLK550 and this plastic piece will not "click" back and allow the roof to open/close. Is there a spring/latch/thingie I need to replace? I'm sure someone already has posted this but if not, any help would be appreciated! Love the car!!!!

took some (not much) time to take things apart, turns out that most of my problems are because of broken electric cables taped together and broken again of course, then lose plugs falling out of lose sockets etc.

the rear window will be fixed by replacing this little plastic part however it's called (1st picture from ebay) a 10 dollar item but to take out the window "thing" will be a pain in the lower back. i think i'll have to. the whole area is in a pretty bad condition.
blue marked with 1 in my hand goes in to under the regulator motor into that round thing, at the red circle with ? is where the other cable is stuck at the bottom (see last pic)

sadly i couldn't find a video that shows how to take out the whole part there are quite a lot of "hidden" screws.

Just got a 320 the soft top won't work checked the fuses and the relay all good the reservior was low on oil added oil.
the up down switch on the consul light stays on until you try and. raise it then it flsashes raidly can anyone help ?

I have installed a replacement cover since mine was faulty. However, I need to install the switch position sensor but I'm failing to find the connector and respective cable to plug the sensor.
Any visual reference for its location under the trunk felt cover it's difficult to come by. Haven't found one yet.

I am looking at buying another CLK 320 2004 convertible. The soft-top sometimes does not want to work due to a leaking hydraulic cylinder. Is it expensive to repair?

Hydraulic cylinders are not hard to get hold of from https://www.tophydraulics.com/ and are not VERY expensive. Karl from tophydraulics also produces excellent videos on how to do it yourself. BUT if you're paying someone else to do the work, that's expensive.

can you resend that link with all the electrical components for the Clk 03-09 tops

That could be found on the A209 section on the forum.

do you still have WIS pdf? Could you send it to me?

Thanks

If somebody could help me figure what could be wrong, it would be really helpful.

Opening the Soft Top:
1) Manually lower all the windows and release the soft top.
2) Open the trunk: Mostly manually.. sometimes the switch inside the car works, sometimes doesn't.
3) Manually release the rear end of soft top (the one with the rear glass) from inside the trunk.
4) Close the trunk
5) Go inside the car, from the back seat, with the help No. 10 spanner release case cover.
6) Open the case cover fully.
7) Manually pull the entire soft top back in the trunk. This doesn't give any resistance, very easily goes in the trunk.
8) Manually close the rear cover and press hard in the center to lock it up.

Closing the soft top:
1) Go inside the car, from the back seat, with the help No. 10 spanner release case cover.
2) Open the case cover fully.
3) Then just pull the soft top switch inside the car and hold and the entire thing comes out and the rear cover closes itself automatically.
4) Close the windows separately. (This function sometimes works automatically, sometimes it doesnt, and then i have to close each window with the separate switch)


So closing is not a big issue, its just the opening part that is giving me some problems.
and since everything closes automatically, i think the hydraulic motor and hydraulics are working correctly.

What do you think could be the problem?