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Just went through and confirmed that in position #2 any wires that have power continue to have power once the car is switched off. The only difference is the AMP wire which is powered once the radio is turned on.
This may be important information in that I do not need to have my key in the ignition to power on my stock radio. I can just unlock the car, jump it and press the power button on the radio to play.
After some further research across multiple CLK forums looks like the general consensus is I need to pull switched power from the cigar lighter or add a circuit from the fuse box on the driver's side
Something's not right. MB isn't going to leave constant 12V power to a stock radio. They have ISO standards they have to follow. That would never happen. Either you're testing the wrong harness, or someone (before you) modified something.
When I said test the hot wires, I was talking about the connections on the factory harness (that goes to the radio), while it's unplugged from the radio. You obviously have to plug it it to find your remote power, but not your accessory power.
Try again. It shouldn't be this difficult. If you can't find it this time, then find the root cause of the problem, because there will be one under those circumstances.
G/L
Last edited by convicted; Apr 29, 2020 at 08:52 PM.
Something's not right. MB isn't going to leave constant 12V power to a stock radio. They have ISO standards they have to follow. That would never happen. Either you're testing the wrong harness, or someone (before you) modified something.
When I said test the hot wires, I was talking about the connections on the factory harness (that goes to the radio), while it's unplugged from the radio. You obviously have to plug it it to find your remote power, but not your accessory power.
Try again. It shouldn't be this difficult. If you can't find it this time, then find the root cause of the problem, because there will be one in under those circumstances.
Today the weather was absolutely beautiful in Toronto so got outside and finally completed my 1-DIN install. It wasn't difficult to get the cigar lighter out and tap into its power for ACC. I'm happy to finally have bluetooth connectivity as well as the ability to have my music on a flash drive. I purchased a 1' Flush Mount USB Extension to mount in the sunglasses holder, connected to the rear USB port of the radio and now have easy access to both available USB ports. Thanks a lot Convicted and MarcusF for your input!
Today the weather was absolutely beautiful in Toronto so got outside and finally completed my 1-DIN install. It wasn't difficult to get the cigar lighter out and tap into its power for ACC. I'm happy to finally have bluetooth connectivity as well as the ability to have my music on a flash drive. I purchased a 1' Flush Mount USB Extension to mount in the sunglasses holder, connected to the rear USB port of the radio and now have easy access to both available USB ports. Thanks a lot Convicted and MarcusF for your input!
Hi mitra how did you tap into the cigarette lighter
You don't have to tap into the cigarette lighter, but if you insist on doing so, just pop the lighter socket out and tap into the +12V wire on the back.
Last edited by convicted; Feb 15, 2021 at 10:36 AM.
If you put the car in neutral (wheels chocked), you can pull up on the wood area around the gear shift to pop it up. Once that's done you will see some screws you will need to remove to then pop out the ashtray + Cigarette lighter compartment. I can't remember which wire was switched power but I just tested with a multimeter. In the pic I used "Posi-Taps" for testing but ended up soldering in the final install. You will notice I have two wires tapped in there as one is for illumination which I did just in case I eventually decide to do a double din install.
You don't have to tap into the cigarette lighter, but if you insist on doing so, just pop the lighter socket out and tap into the +12V wire on the back.
If I don’t use the cigarette lighter where else should I get power?
anyone know which is the speed wire in the passenger rocker panel?
I had a local shop install my Z130 years ago and he cut the original harness in a few places and I think moved some pins around. He hand twisted and used electrical tape on everything; worst job eve.
I purchased an NEX8500 and doing it right this time. Problems left to solve:
1. Find lower from source other than lighter. Nothing in the three plugs that attached to the original single fin unit.
2. Replace original subwoofer as my new JBL sub amp won’t drive it. I purchased a new sub that will fit in the enclosure but I need to fabricate tabs out of lexon to hold it in plac.
3. speed wire location. I have read alternating info on location. Definitely the n passenger rocker panel conduit. However, not sure which wire in which plug to tap.
4. PAC-SW1 steering wheel control module. Literature is confusing and don’t know how to hook it up. It did a install with one in my Jeep Commander and it was a piece of cake.
If I'm not mistaken, a few of us have already posted pics and pinouts in this thread. Just use those pics to find the color of the wires you're looking for (if the harness has been cut).
If I'm not mistaken, a few of us have already posted pics and pinouts in this thread. Just use those pics to find the color of the wires you're looking for (if the harness has been cut).
yah, I saw that schematic with the legend. On the A plug it says there is a wire in #6 but I have no illumination wire.
Any advice on the speed wire and swapping out the subwoofer?
Last edited by sirswift93; May 11, 2021 at 01:36 AM.
I don't usually bother with illumination and speed wires if they're not already in the harness (much of that stuff is already built into modern head units).
As for the sub: what do you need help with exactly?
I don't usually bother with illumination and speed wires if they're not already in the harness (much of that stuff is already built into modern head units).
As for the sub: what do you need help with exactly?
I want to use the original sub enclosure but since that tube is built for the tabs that are part of the original speaker sub (ears) it’s difficult to come up with a mounting method. All aftermarket subs have a round frame while the original one has the tabs with screw holes that stick out so it can be screwed down to the sub tube. I was going to cut a custom frame with tabs out of Lexon.
Last edited by sirswift93; May 11, 2021 at 01:37 AM.
I don't usually bother with illumination and speed wires if they're not already in the harness (much of that stuff is already built into modern head units).
As for the sub: what do you need help with exactly?
I found this from another post; canbus wire locations for steering wheel controls.
Hello,
I have the BOSE 5 speaker system. 2 in each door and one between the rear seats, with an amp behind the steel plate. I have to get to my hydraulics so I figure good time to swap head unit amp and speakers. Question on the wiring to the AMP. Are the speaker wires 2 pair left door and 2 pair right door, run directly from the Head unit or do they go behind the steel wall where the amp is mounted, than to the speakers. Would be nice if it did for wiring in a new amp... Basically, what is the amp, amplifying? Is it just the 9" Bose speaker or all the car speakers? How much power is it putting out? and does anyone know it it can be split/used in an aftermarket setup? Has anyone tried to upgrade that 9 inch speaker with maybe an 8 in. shallow mount sub like a Pioneer TS-A2000LD2. It's 2 5/8 and also Free Air so it maybe a good performer? But the factory speaker looks even flatter - may not fit?
Don't see the point in subbing the trunk when no sound will reach the cabin. I've heard the under the seat subs suck if you could even get one to fit... So do I just amp the door speakers and leave the Center or try and retro with it's own amp?
Hi Everyone, I know this is an older thread but I need some help with my (new to me) 1999 CLK 320 W208. I want to do a few things, and based off of my research I think should be possible.
Firstly, I want to swap my Becker audio 30 stock radio with an aftermarket one, but still retain the factory amp and speakers. I've seen some conflicting evidence online, and this thread has been the most helpful.
My question is, do I need the OEM2 adapter for this particular car? My car doesn't have steering wheel controls, so I'm not worried about that, but I saw in the post by @MarcusF and the post by @convicted that the process should look something like this: Aftermarket radio->PAC OEM2->Harness adapter ->stock amplifier. Is this correct? Or can I just go from the Aftermarket Radio->Harness Adapter-> Stock Amp? The PAC OEM2 is no longer made but I can grab it on eBay used.
My second question, is I want to swap the location of the HVAC and the Radio, I'm assuming because they are both single din that I should be able to do this? I saw a few forum posts suggesting that it was possible.
Any help would be amazing! Thanks!
Last edited by TechnoMinute; Feb 26, 2023 at 09:39 PM.
Reason: @ another person in the thread.
Back in the day, I had one of those single DIN alpine headunits with the pop out screen and I had it sitting higher in the HVAC slot but my only problem was it was a tight fit and you really had to shove it in there to get it to lock into place. The wires from the back of the unit were too much. I have seen shallow single DIN head units out there these days and those should fit in there no problem.
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