how to remove door sills
#2
Have not seen a paper, but its quite an easy task:
Lower the window.
Remove the cover that holds the tweeter and unplug.
Remove the plastic panel that surrounds the door latch - 1 screw
Remove the chrome plate above the latch at the top of the door - 3 screws.
Remove the 2 T30 torx screws; One behind the SRS airbag badge and one behind a plastic cover just under the door handle (my cover was a bit difficult to get off).
Once you have removed these screws carefully pull the door card from the bottom to unclip the plastic poppers. There are 4 of them along the bottom and up 2 each side. You may need to use a plastic wedge to help pop the card away from the door.
Once the poppers are all free, lift the card sharply upwards using the door handle. This unhooks the card from the door.
Once unhooked, the card is now only held in by the rubber window strip. Carefully pull the card out of the rubber strip starting from one side. Sometimes the whole rubber strip comes away from the door. If this happens then you must remove the strip from the door card before proceeding any further.
The last step is to remove the door lever cable by pulling back the cable to free from the mounting and then unhook from the lever. Then disconnect the window switch (slide the white tab) and then lastly remove the bottom light by removing the surround before disconnecting it.
The card is now free from the car.
Note the plastic surround you removed from the door latch is used to press the door switch and without this, the window will not close completely when the door is shut. The car will think the door is always open until this is refitted.
Lower the window.
Remove the cover that holds the tweeter and unplug.
Remove the plastic panel that surrounds the door latch - 1 screw
Remove the chrome plate above the latch at the top of the door - 3 screws.
Remove the 2 T30 torx screws; One behind the SRS airbag badge and one behind a plastic cover just under the door handle (my cover was a bit difficult to get off).
Once you have removed these screws carefully pull the door card from the bottom to unclip the plastic poppers. There are 4 of them along the bottom and up 2 each side. You may need to use a plastic wedge to help pop the card away from the door.
Once the poppers are all free, lift the card sharply upwards using the door handle. This unhooks the card from the door.
Once unhooked, the card is now only held in by the rubber window strip. Carefully pull the card out of the rubber strip starting from one side. Sometimes the whole rubber strip comes away from the door. If this happens then you must remove the strip from the door card before proceeding any further.
The last step is to remove the door lever cable by pulling back the cable to free from the mounting and then unhook from the lever. Then disconnect the window switch (slide the white tab) and then lastly remove the bottom light by removing the surround before disconnecting it.
The card is now free from the car.
Note the plastic surround you removed from the door latch is used to press the door switch and without this, the window will not close completely when the door is shut. The car will think the door is always open until this is refitted.
Last edited by wardpaa; 09-16-2009 at 04:50 PM.
#4
Tony,
Could of done with those pics when i did the job but too late now.
Ironically the reason i needed to take my door card off was because the passenger window was ratlling when the window was down. Shutting the door produced that crashing feeling you only get with jap cars.
The reason was because there was a missing bolt from the top RH mount and the LH mount which is also the fore/aft adjuster was loose.
The bottom bolts were fine.
Is there a Merc procedure for setting the window position up ? My passenger window sits further out at the top than the drivers side when the door is closed. I adjusted the bottom mount but its on maximum tilt.
Could of done with those pics when i did the job but too late now.
Ironically the reason i needed to take my door card off was because the passenger window was ratlling when the window was down. Shutting the door produced that crashing feeling you only get with jap cars.
The reason was because there was a missing bolt from the top RH mount and the LH mount which is also the fore/aft adjuster was loose.
The bottom bolts were fine.
Is there a Merc procedure for setting the window position up ? My passenger window sits further out at the top than the drivers side when the door is closed. I adjusted the bottom mount but its on maximum tilt.
#5
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Derby Kansas
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2004 CLK 500
Have not seen a paper, but its quite an easy task:
Lower the window.
Remove the cover that holds the tweeter and unplug.
Remove the plastic panel that surrounds the door latch - 1 screw
Remove the chrome plate above the latch at the top of the door - 3 screws.
Remove the 2 T30 torx screws; One behind the SRS airbag badge and one behind a plastic cover just under the door handle (my cover was a bit difficult to get off).
Once you have removed these screws carefully pull the door card from the bottom to unclip the plastic poppers. There are 4 of them along the bottom and up 2 each side. You may need to use a plastic wedge to help pop the card away from the door.
Once the poppers are all free, lift the card sharply upwards using the door handle. This unhooks the card from the door.
Once unhooked, the card is now only held in by the rubber window strip. Carefully pull the card out of the rubber strip starting from one side. Sometimes the whole rubber strip comes away from the door. If this happens then you must remove the strip from the door card before proceeding any further.
The last step is to remove the door lever cable by pulling back the cable to free from the mounting and then unhook from the lever. Then disconnect the window switch (slide the white tab) and then lastly remove the bottom light by removing the surround before disconnecting it.
The card is now free from the car.
Note the plastic surround you removed from the door latch is used to press the door switch and without this, the window will not close completely when the door is shut. The car will think the door is always open until this is refitted.
Lower the window.
Remove the cover that holds the tweeter and unplug.
Remove the plastic panel that surrounds the door latch - 1 screw
Remove the chrome plate above the latch at the top of the door - 3 screws.
Remove the 2 T30 torx screws; One behind the SRS airbag badge and one behind a plastic cover just under the door handle (my cover was a bit difficult to get off).
Once you have removed these screws carefully pull the door card from the bottom to unclip the plastic poppers. There are 4 of them along the bottom and up 2 each side. You may need to use a plastic wedge to help pop the card away from the door.
Once the poppers are all free, lift the card sharply upwards using the door handle. This unhooks the card from the door.
Once unhooked, the card is now only held in by the rubber window strip. Carefully pull the card out of the rubber strip starting from one side. Sometimes the whole rubber strip comes away from the door. If this happens then you must remove the strip from the door card before proceeding any further.
The last step is to remove the door lever cable by pulling back the cable to free from the mounting and then unhook from the lever. Then disconnect the window switch (slide the white tab) and then lastly remove the bottom light by removing the surround before disconnecting it.
The card is now free from the car.
Note the plastic surround you removed from the door latch is used to press the door switch and without this, the window will not close completely when the door is shut. The car will think the door is always open until this is refitted.
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#8
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Move the seat all the way back first, then firmly grab under the
plastic cover with both hands (on the inside) and pull up hard. The
cover is held in place by the brackets marked with the red circles.
plastic cover with both hands (on the inside) and pull up hard. The
cover is held in place by the brackets marked with the red circles.
#10
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2001 E430, 2002 ML55
I removed my door panel and now the inside door opener handle is lose and doesn't allow me to open the door. The cable from the handle to the latch at the end is loss. Any recommendation on what I should do?
#11
MBworld Guru
It sounds like the linkage came loose. It's hard to explain it, but the end of the cable hooks into the handle, and also has to be snapped into the plastic retainer. It's actually a very typical setup if you've ever worked on auto trim.