DIY: Remove and replace valve cover gaskets and spark plugs
#180
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2005 E55 AMG, 1991 MR2
+1, the answer is on page 7 for all of them. I originally bought two torque wrenches (5-25Nm and 40-200+Nm) after I broke a steel bolt in aluminum, best tools I ever bought.
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Mackhack (11-11-2016)
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#185
The aluminum bolts in the breather cover must be replaced with new aluminum bolts. every time you open that cover. Do not use the old aluminum bolts. They are available through MB dealers. Don't cost much money.
#186
Cover gasket sealant
Use only MB sealing compound. It's worthless to save a few dollars buying other brands. I recall to have bought one recommended at Pelican website, a green stuff. It as a mess. I had a leak a few months after. When I opened the breather cover, the sealant was gone, literally. Lost of time and money. Buy MB and you'll eliminate the guess out of the equation.
#187
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2001 CLK 430 Convertible
Question on driver side valve cover
I pulled the air cover off my 2001 clk 430 covertible and notice that the piece that hold the black rubber piece is basically fried off like burnt metal. I believe this was the result of an overheat situation. What is the purpose of this black thing? Is this a problem that needs to be fixed? Any guidance is appreciated
#188
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2001 CLK 430 Convertible
Question on driver side valve cover
I pulled the air cover off my 2001 clk 430 covertible and notice that the piece that hold the black rubber piece is basically fried off like burnt metal. I believe this was the result of an overheat situation. What is the purpose of this black thing? Is this a problem that needs to be fixed? Any guidance is appreciated
#189
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2001 CLK 430 Convertible
Picture
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I pulled the air cover off my 2001 clk 430 covertible and notice that the piece that hold the black rubber piece is basically fried off like burnt metal. I believe this was the result of an overheat situation. What is the purpose of this black thing? Is this a problem that needs to be fixed? Any guidance is appreciated
#191
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2005 CLK500 Convertible
When I started my 2005 CLK500 convertible with 50,000 after winter I noticed smoke from the passenger side of the engine. I looks like the there is oil seepage at valve cover gaskets on both sides. The breather covers look fine, no seepage. When I replace the valve cover gaskets should I remove and reseal the breather covers as well?
#192
When I started my 2005 CLK500 convertible with 50,000 after winter I noticed smoke from the passenger side of the engine. I looks like the there is oil seepage at valve cover gaskets on both sides. The breather covers look fine, no seepage. When I replace the valve cover gaskets should I remove and reseal the breather covers as well?
Last edited by Mackhack; 05-01-2019 at 05:45 PM.
#194
I’ll be doing mine in my E55 (M113k) soon, too. Left side is leaking like hell.
Make sure you buy OEM gaskets, OEM sealant, and last but not least the new steel screws. Don’t reuse the old aluminum screws.
Use Loctite 7200 to remove the old sealant, use Loctite 7063 to degrease everything.
Make sure you buy OEM gaskets, OEM sealant, and last but not least the new steel screws. Don’t reuse the old aluminum screws.
Use Loctite 7200 to remove the old sealant, use Loctite 7063 to degrease everything.
Last edited by Mackhack; 05-01-2019 at 11:37 PM.
#197
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2005 CLK500 Convertible
I ordered all parts for the valve cover gasket replacement and breather covers resealing on my 2005 CLK500 with M113 engine. I have few questions before I started. First, when I apply the sealant on the breather covers and install them using 5 new small breather cover bolts at 4 Nm. Should I wait for the sealer to cure before installing the valve covers and torque them to the cylinder head, or I should complete the installation and wait for the sealer to cure after that? Second, how much time does the sealer need to cure before car can be started? Third, if I'm not mistaken, in the attached WIS document it shows that the valve cover bolts (Cylinder head cover bolt) should be to torqued in 2 stages, stage 1 at 9 Nm and stage 2 - has an angle symbol. How should I torque them correctly?
#198
Make sure you don’t flatten the sealant with your finger. Too many wanna be YouTube star car mechanics all do it wrong. Apply a sealant “worm” with 2 mm diameter as close to the middle as possible. Immediately place the cover onto the sealant and place the entire cover onto the head and bolt it down. Don’t wait as this stuff (OEM “MB Black”) will start time cure in 10 minutes. Final cure time takes 24-48 hours depending on temperature and humidity. Don’t start the engine until then. You don’t want this stuff to run down inside the engine block.
The degree symbol has no number in the table, hence it’s just one stage with 8 Nm or whatever your document shows. That’s it. It’s not rocket science
Btw. Where in the posted WIS document do you see a screw that is being torqued down with 4 Nm? I see 8, 9 and 38 Nm.
The degree symbol has no number in the table, hence it’s just one stage with 8 Nm or whatever your document shows. That’s it. It’s not rocket science
Btw. Where in the posted WIS document do you see a screw that is being torqued down with 4 Nm? I see 8, 9 and 38 Nm.
Last edited by Mackhack; 03-26-2020 at 09:20 AM. Reason: Typo
#199
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2005 CLK500 Convertible
In the attached WIS document "Remove/install cover for crankcase ventilation" it says, Bolt, crankcase ventilation cover to the cylinder head valve cover at 4 Nm. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
#200
You posted a different WIS doc above and that is what I refer to. We can only go by what you present. And there is no second stage with degree either in the crank case doc.
Everything I mentioned in my first response is what you should follow if you wanna do it right.
Good luck.
Everything I mentioned in my first response is what you should follow if you wanna do it right.
Good luck.