Well, not technically the "balance shaft" since it's on the M273, but it's the same basic problem with the defective timing gear. My CLK550 started throwing M1200/1208 codes a few months ago at only 32K miles (but five years old). I talked to the dealer who quoted $4K ballpark for the repair. I figured I'd just do it myself, but one day in November, I decided I'd contact MBZ and ask nicely about a "goodwill" repair. After lots of phone tag, waiting on the dealership to respond to corporate, then waiting on the regional rep to get involved, they finally approved the repair, covering it 100%. I took it in this morning and might have it back by Friday evening.

I can't promise that anyone else will have the same results, but my strategy was to be nice, persistent and factual. My initial contact was via the MBUSA website. I gave them the VIN and engine serial number, my symptoms and just asked about the possibility of a goodwill repair, knowing that it was a year out of warranty.

I'm driving a new C300 as a loaner. It's a nice car, but I really like our W203 much better - this C300 seems like a BMW 3-series clone. It just lacks that signature "classy" MBZ ride. And the interior proportions just don't seem "right".

Of course I'm glad I don't have to spend the time doing it myself, but then again, I love to tinker and fix things and I probably would have enjoyed the challenge. Oh well, thanks MBZ!

 

Great story!
It's karma because you help so many here

 

Excellent - That is the way it should be!

You put it well. The 204 does feel like a BMW 3 Series clone. Lost the old Benz values of Solidity, Luxury & Quietness. My 203 C240 was one solid little car & never developed a single squeak or rattle.

 

Well done Rod, that's great to hear. And I also agree the 203 is a much nicer car interior wise to the 204, it just fits and feels better. My '05 C200K SS is the best/favorite car I've ever owned.

 

Thanks, guys. I am just so glad that MBZ has decided to stand behind their vehicle. I didn't even call on any of my contacts from the factory or dealership. They think it will be ready tomorrow afternoon, but I'll be surprised if it is. The "book" on the job is 40 hours, but they claim they can do it in 18. By COB Friday, they will have had it in the shop for just over 24 working hours. I'd say that's cutting it close. But no worries - we will be running around in the wife's Jeep Grand Cherokee for all our Christmasing.

 

Got the CLK back today. Everything seems good. MBZ covered the whole job, except for an addtional $370 for three new motor mounts. My SA called last Friday to let me know they needed replacement and since the engine was already lifted off of them, all I had to pay was parts.

 

Good stuff

 

Great deal & I must say Benz is good about the balancer shaft sprocket failure. Repair & ask no questions seems to be their attitude with this one.

 

This is a little encouraging. I hope that if the balance shaft gear issue occurs on my CLK350 that I receive the same treatment if I decide to keep it long enough. So in total it took about 6 weeks to approve the repair?

 

Very promising news. What were the symptoms? Just the codes?

 

My symptoms were codes the tell-tale camshaft position sensor errors - DTC codes 1200/1208 (P0017/P0016). At first, the MIL would only indicate the error once every few weeks, then it would go away. After a few months, even if I cleared it with SDS< the error would recur after less than 5 minutes of driving. A month after that, I could actually hear the timing chain clanking around. In my case, the sprocket gear had "stretched".

As for dealing with MBZ, I think the process would have gone much faster but my dealership's service manager was out of town, then the regional director was out of town, then the rep I worked with at MBUSA was on vacation, then Thanksgiving, etc. When I finally did get in touch with the rep at MBUSA, she was so profusely apologetic about the delays, that I believe that was abnormal situation.

My advice for anyone with this problem is to first take it to your dealer and have it diagnosed. I did a "self diagnosis" and since my car had never been into my dealer's service center, that might have delayed the response as well. Anyhow, once you get the diagnosis, tell your SA that you want to discuss the problem with the service manager and seek a "goodwill" repair from MBZ. Let the manager do the legwork, but also, go ahead and contact MBUSA yourself (I used the email form on the website). Be nice and respectful. Remember, no matter what the cause of the problem, is, the car is out of warranty and they are under no obligation to pay for the repair. If they do, it truly is an act of customer goodwill.

 

Very good advice

Plus remember that every cam timing warning does not mean worn sprockets. It's frequently just the cam sensor magnets that require replacement & have been redesigned (Not the camshaft position sensors themselves)

 

I suppose that just the right-side intake and exhaust cam magnets could fail and cause the tell-tale 1200 and 1208 DTC's, but usually, they fail more randomly so you get left-bank cam errors, too.

With the balance shaft/timing sprocket failure, slack in the chain first throws off the right bank cams. With its variable valve timing capabilities, it can compensate, but that puts the timing back in sync for the left bank, so there are not any errors on it. That just leaves you with 1200 - right bank exhaust cam timing retarded and 1208 - right bank intake cam retarded. Note that the OBDII "P" codes aren't specific enough - you have to read the codes with SDS and get the DTC's to pinpoint which cam, which bank and whether it's advanced or retarded.

 

Well the CEL just came lit up on my 07 CLK 350. Had the codes read and sure enough I have the dreaded 1208/1200 codes (1208 stored / 1200 current and stored). Contacted MBUSA via their website inquiring about a " Goodwill" repair. Was contacted yesterday by a rep from MBUSA and was informed I am not eligible as my CLK has 142,000 miles. I suspected as much. I was told to keep any and all receipts for repair if it is the balance shaft in the event a recall is ever issued.

 

Indeed!

For those without Star.

P0010 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
P0011 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or
System Performance (Bank 1)
P0012 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0013 "B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
P0014 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or
System Performance (Bank 1)
P0015 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
P0020 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
P0021 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or
System Performance (Bank 2)
P0022 "A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)
P0023 "B" Camshaft Position - Actuator Circuit (Bank 2)
P0024 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or
System Performance (Bank 2)
P0025 "B" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 2)

 

Question - will both the 1200 and 1208 codes be current if it is a balance shaft problem or can one be stored and the other code be current?

 

I guess with lower mileage, they were more eager to help me. My CLK delivery date was August 2006 (so it's well over a year out of warranty), but I only have 34,000 miles. You have 142K? Wow, even if you had an early delivery summer 2006, that's some driving - over 2K miles per month! I generally put around 1K/mo, but I guess the previous owner of my CLK just used it as a weekend driver.

The repair on the CLK takes about 40 hours. The V6 has to be removed in order to break it open since the bad sprocket and the balance shaft are all one forged piece. On the V8, the bad sprocket is simply bolted to the end of the crankshaft, so technically it's a front-end job requiring only the removal of the timing cover, but the engine still has to be lifted some in order to remove the oil pan (it sits over the front edge of the timing cover). In reality, most dealerships just go ahead and remove the V8 to make the job easier (and mine did do that).

Really, removing the engine is not as horrible as it may seem - it's just very time consuming because of all the things that have to be disconnected. Luckily, the wiring is pretty much a single harness. You have to D/C the cooling hoses, the exhaust system, and the MAF assembly. There are a bunch of ground wires and a few other vacuum hoses. All in all, book value lists engine removal and replacement at about 11 hours, then 8 hours for the balance shaft R&R. The other 20+ hours are spent on removing shrouds, components (fan, alternator, A/C compressor, etc.), road testing, oil changes, etc. It's probably not a DIY for the faint of heart!

 

+1.

 

The previous owner put right at a 100K miles on it in just over two years, she was a pharmaseutical sales rep. Mostly hightway miles as her region was rather large. Services were kept to date on the car and it has no history of warranty repair, so it has been a very solid car. Even with 140K it still looks, drives and rides like new. Even with the error codes I'm getting, I still get 29 mpg on the highway. My local independent mechanic is hoping that it will be just the sensor or maybe a camshaft adjustment solenoid. (I use a local mechanic as my nearest dealership is 130 miles away, plus he's a good friend and has experience with MBZ.)

We have replacements sensors on order, when they are replaced, he plans to try and snake a camera down to inspect the balance shaft sprocket, if for nothing more than just for peace of mind. Most of what I have read regarding the balance shaft issues seem to appear on vehicles with alot less miles, so I will remain hopeful.

In the worst case scenario, since the car is out of warranty and I am not eligible due to the mileage for any "goodwill" repair from MBZ, he thinks he can provide the "goodwill" and replace the balance shaft for less than $2500. Thank God for friends!

 

When DTC's 1200 and 1208 are present together, there is a high likelihood that you have a balance shaft/idler sprocket issue. These faults will usually not appear separately unless there is a problem with the adjuster itself. To understand why you need to know how the cams are connected. The chain is connected to both left and right intake cam adjuster, and via gear train to the exhaust adjusters. (See figure A.) If base timing is off on the intake, then base timing is off on the exhaust as well.

Figure A


These faults will appear after the ME attempts to adjust the cams, however the value deviates by more than 9 degrees crank angle of specified.

1200 - Constant adjustment of exhaust camshaft of right cylinder bank in direction 'Retarded'(P0017)

1208 - Constant adjustment of intake camshaft of right cylinder bank in direction 'Retarded'(P0016)

Usually when you have an issue with the cam magnet/solenoid, you will have one of the following DTC's: 0059, 0060, 0063, 0064, 0271, 0272, 0275, 0276.

With the use of an oscilloscope it is very easy to determine if the engine is out of time. (see figure B) By connecting a multi-channel scope to all the cam position sensors and crank position sensor we can get a graphical representation of engine timing. We are also able to determine how many degrees out of time the engine actually is. A & B are the intakes and C & D are the exhaust. E is the crank position sensor. If you notice the two black lines they show an engine in time. If the engine was out of time one of the banks would not be inline. You can then count the segments in row E to determine the amount of degrees of deviation. The flywheel has a total of 60 segments minus 2 to identify cylinder 1, this means that each sine wave of the crank sensor is equal to about 6 degrees.

Figure B


As far as goodwill, if you have low milage on your vehicle, there is a good chance you could get it covered. But if you have been doing some driving it is more likely that it will not be covered. Goodwill has many variables however.

 

FYI, the job is about a 20 hour job...not 40. 20 hrs is "book" or warranty labor time. Most people doing the job in the dealer hate it, so they try to mark it up. It's not a fun job to do.

 

Thank you for that - Excellent explanation.

 

Please note. Benz specifically tells you not to replace the sensors. Only the magnets which were redesigned.

That might be what you mean.

I suggest you all read this bulletin. I will Sticky it.

 

Anytime

 

See my edit & bulletin attached above.