My Transmission
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With the latest TCU code (or at least from Dec. 2011), unless I floor it, I can't keep the car in 1st gear for more than a few feet. If I want to get a little extended range in 1st to hear the exhaust, I use the TouchShift. I generally don't use it for engine braking, but like I said, the car does that for me - I can often feel it downshifting a doing a little rev as I come to a stop. Of course it's nothing like driving a manual, but it does give my right hand something to do besides sit on the horn. 
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With the latest TCU code (or at least from Dec. 2011), unless I floor it, I can't keep the car in 1st gear for more than a few feet. If I want to get a little extended range in 1st to hear the exhaust, I use the TouchShift. I generally don't use it for engine braking, but like I said, the car does that for me - I can often feel it downshifting a doing a little rev as I come to a stop. Of course it's nothing like driving a manual, but it does give my right hand something to do besides sit on the horn.
Thread-jack apologies.
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: SCV SoCal
2002 CLK430
There seems to be this old urban legend that if you let an automatic transmission go too long without a fluid change that you are better of not changing it. The theory seems to be that transmission will have become used to the thicker, contaminated oil, and that by putting the lighter, cleaner oil in, it will leak past the internal hydraulic seals and cause problems. I think that's a bunch of baloney. If anything, fresh oil is good for these overworked seals. I think the anecdotal evidence of new fluid causing problems is really a result of old, neglected machines on their last leg that would have failed regardless.
@Marcus: $350 for a fluid and filter change on a 722.6 is a bit pricey. My indy does it for under $200. There's no torque converter drain, so that saves some work and about 5 quarts of fluid, plus the 722.6 can be filled and level checked from the top through its dip tube. The 722.9 has a torque converter drain, so that means extra labor + extra fluid and the refill and level check has to be done underneath via the drain plug. Most dealers charge $400+ (and then often neglect the torque converter drain!) Indys usually charge around $300.
@Marcus: $350 for a fluid and filter change on a 722.6 is a bit pricey. My indy does it for under $200. There's no torque converter drain, so that saves some work and about 5 quarts of fluid, plus the 722.6 can be filled and level checked from the top through its dip tube. The 722.9 has a torque converter drain, so that means extra labor + extra fluid and the refill and level check has to be done underneath via the drain plug. Most dealers charge $400+ (and then often neglect the torque converter drain!) Indys usually charge around $300.
Transmission oil filter (part number 140-277-00-95) - $15.97
Gasket (part number 140-271-00-80) - $ 14.94
Lock pin (part number 140-991-00-55) - $2.91
Seal Ring (part number 140-271-00-60) - $2.91
5 quarts of fluid (part number 001-989-21-03-10) - $95.30 (19.06 each)
It's $132 in parts, about $10 in tax, and $200+ for the labor. The labor fee includes the work, the inspection, the car wash, and the loaner car for the day. I think $350 is fair. Could they have sold me the transmission fluid at half price and knocked the labor down to $125? Sure, but it's the dealer. They always charge a premium.
Now, the 11 hours I was quoted to change the the oil pressure relief valve . . . . . . . the $15 valve that I personally changed in a third of that time . . . . . . THAT was an IQ test.
@JerrySWFL - thanks for the complement. The next edition is coming in late September.
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You can get the fluid for less than half that price. I bought 12 quarts for $75 (Shell ATF-134).
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From: BROOKLYN NY/ Charlotte nc
00 cl500 turbo 03 e500turbo w203_63 w203 m271sc/turbo
When the car went into limp mode what code did you get on the dashboard Did the yellow ABS light on the right hand side of the cluster come on And did it display ESP display visit workshop And did the odometer stop working Was the tranny stuck in second gear and only went about 45 miles per hour please need help car stuck in limp mode
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From: Llandudno, Cape Town, South Africa
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
When the car went into limp mode what code did you get on the dashboard Did the yellow ABS light on the right hand side of the cluster come on And did it display ESP display visit workshop And did the odometer stop working Was the tranny stuck in second gear and only went about 45 miles per hour please need help car stuck in limp mode
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Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2004
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2004 CLK320
When the car went into limp mode what code did you get on the dashboard Did the yellow ABS light on the right hand side of the cluster come on And did it display ESP display visit workshop And did the odometer stop working Was the tranny stuck in second gear and only went about 45 miles per hour please need help car stuck in limp mode
My indie did pull two codes, P2203 and P220A using a SDS. Experts in this forum confirmed that this was a faulty conductor plate.
Thread Starter
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,200
Likes: 10
2004 CLK320
One online store you may consider is oediscountparts which carries OE parts (not OEM). My friend in US bought the engine and transmission mounts for me and he told me they came in MB packaging. I will get them next week.
Part no of the conductor plate is 140-270-11-61-28. They sell this at Toronto dealership for $460can. Oediscountparts sells it for $202us and they do ship to Canada.
BTW. You may not see any ATF on your garage floor if your 13-pin connector (pilot bushing) is leaking. Mine leaked and there was no trace until I removed the bottom cover. If yours haven't been changed for a while, change it anyway. It costs $12 in the dealership; part no is 203-540-02-53.
Last edited by mis3; Dec 23, 2013 at 07:51 PM.
