Is this bushing really leaking?!
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Is this bushing really leaking?!
This just started on my 05 clk320 a few days ago. It's been getting worse and I hope to god it's not from the engine. It appears to be coming from the bushing on the control arm itself. Everything else seems dry. I've researched this very same problem but could not find an answer to what it was or if the problem went away after replacing the bushing. Are these bushings fluid filled or not?? And if so, do they leak when they get worn??
Thank you for your help guys 👍
Thank you for your help guys 👍
Last edited by Ghennes13; 06-10-2016 at 05:55 AM.
#2
Junior Member
Yes the bushings are filled with a fluid. Yes, it sure looks like it is the bushing that is leaking. To be certain, open the hood and try to trace the leak. If you see nothing from above it is the bushing. You can buy a new control arm that will come with the bushing for about $85. I would recommend getting the OEM Lemfoerder. There are others for less, but they come from China and the quality control can be lacking.
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JettaRed (10-01-2023)
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Yes the bushings are filled with a fluid. Yes, it sure looks like it is the bushing that is leaking. To be certain, open the hood and try to trace the leak. If you see nothing from above it is the bushing. You can buy a new control arm that will come with the bushing for about $85. I would recommend getting the OEM Lemfoerder. There are others for less, but they come from China and the quality control can be lacking.
#4
Super Member
I don't remember my control arms having that much fluid to leak out
https://i.imgur.com/ynAGfzM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4LqLzCV.jpg
From here
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ml#post6406517
https://i.imgur.com/ynAGfzM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4LqLzCV.jpg
From here
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ml#post6406517
#5
Member
Thread Starter
I don't remember my control arms having that much fluid to leak out
https://i.imgur.com/ynAGfzM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4LqLzCV.jpg
From here
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ml#post6406517
https://i.imgur.com/ynAGfzM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4LqLzCV.jpg
From here
https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class...ml#post6406517
#6
Junior Member
The bushing replacement requires special tools that usually only a well equipped shop will have. The labor to replace a bushing is more time consuming than replacement of the entire arm that will come with a new bushing already installed on the control arm. I would replace just the one control arm that is leaking.
#7
MBworld Guru
My advice is to replace all four struts (control arms) and to only use genuine MBZ or OEM Lemfoerder. Zip439 is correct - replacing just the bushing is more labor intensive than a new strut because you still must remove the strut, then you have to deal with removing and fitting the bushing which is a very tight fit. On top of that, your ball joints are 100K+ miles old and likely could replacement, too. Those frame bushings on the struts are critical to alignment. As they wear, caster and camber gets out of spec, and you get additional vibration. Most all brands besides MBZ and Lemfoerder are made in China and reports of bushging quality are not good.
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#8
Member
Thread Starter
My advice is to replace all four struts (control arms) and to only use genuine MBZ or OEM Lemfoerder. Zip439 is correct - replacing just the bushing is more labor intensive than a new strut because you still must remove the strut, then you have to deal with removing and fitting the bushing which is a very tight fit. On top of that, your ball joints are 100K+ miles old and likely could replacement, too. Those frame bushings on the struts are critical to alignment. As they wear, caster and camber gets out of spec, and you get additional vibration. Most all brands besides MBZ and Lemfoerder are made in China and reports of bushging quality are not good.
This one loves it when the soft top is down haha
#9
MBworld Guru
Love the passenger!
Yes, replacing the control arms will make it feel like a new car. I would not replace the shocks unless they are bad. Check them for leaks, and do a bounce test: push down on the car, then release. It should come back up and then stop. If it bounces, then the shocks may need replacing. Oh, and get an alignment once the work is done. Make sure to use a shop that is capable of installing the camber bolts if necessary (though with new arms, it's usually not).
Yes, replacing the control arms will make it feel like a new car. I would not replace the shocks unless they are bad. Check them for leaks, and do a bounce test: push down on the car, then release. It should come back up and then stop. If it bounces, then the shocks may need replacing. Oh, and get an alignment once the work is done. Make sure to use a shop that is capable of installing the camber bolts if necessary (though with new arms, it's usually not).
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
You'd be surprised how much increased driving smoothness you'll get after replacing the engine mounts! Night and day for me whether in idle, in kickdown, or in cruising. The car simple felt brand new again (given that I had all bad suspension parts replaced).
#11
Member
Thread Starter
My Indy wants to charge 900 for motor mounts and tranny mount. And 1500 for upper and lower control arms.
#12
MBworld Guru
$900 for the mounts is not too bad. They do have to lift the engine and it's really tight working quarters. Parts are probably 25% of it. As for the control arms, that's very high. Lemfoerder parts are maybe $400 and I'd say two hours per side - should be well under $1000 for that job.
#13
Member
Thread Starter
$900 for the mounts is not too bad. They do have to lift the engine and it's really tight working quarters. Parts are probably 25% of it. As for the control arms, that's very high. Lemfoerder parts are maybe $400 and I'd say two hours per side - should be well under $1000 for that job.
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
$900 is way too much including labour!!
#15
MBworld Guru
The issue with engine mounts is the labor involved. You have to remove the exhaust and lift the engine to do the job. Book rate is 3.4 hours for the front mounts, and about an hour for the rear. Plus parts. Genuine MBZ mounts are $135 each for the front, and $70 rear. $900 is a bit high, but not "robbery".
#16
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xsever has completely forgotten about labor rates outside of our country.. something like that here would cost maybe 40$ in labor. Oh and I've never removed the exhaust to change motor mounts. Just a lift of the engine and some tight spaces but its not that bad.
#17
Senior Member
Agree with Rodney. The labor is in dropping the exhaust system to get at the mounts. It's probably 2 hours per side plus an hour for the transmission mount, and the cost of parts.
#18
Member
Thread Starter
An hour for the tranny mount? I heard it only takes 20 minutes if you know what you are doing. Much easier than the front motor mounts.
#20
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#21
MBworld Guru
I'd definitely not pay hundreds of dollars for the rear mount. If you can safely lift and support the car, then get a jack under the transmission, you can change it - it's not much harder than changing a spare tire.
#25
Member
Thread Starter
Got a closer look at these control arms and couldn't believe how bad they were. I'm definitely going to replace the entire arm and not just the bushings. They've obviously never been replaced!
No wonder my car feels like crap to drive!!
No wonder my car feels like crap to drive!!